hubbanubba

hi, yesterday i heard 2 loud cracks throughout the day, sounded like a glass falling to the floor. also when i rebooted it while warm it was still glitching like crazy in XBMC menu, stability had rapidly deteriorated so i just had open it up, ran the HDD through bad sector scan on computer, and saw the CPU caps. they looked like this in photo. i have replaced them and the XBOX now works like new again. it was the bulging cpu caps all along. are using the wii2hdmi adapter without problems now. no oddities anymore. btw it was also glitching (pulling the picture from right to left in aloop) with the s-video too, just unbearably much now in the end. with the s-video the picture didn't black out though because its analog signal it was just ... like a slideshow right to left until the cpu got over 34 celsius hot. wish i videoed that too. --------------------------------------------------PROBLEM SOLVED, GAME ON--------------------------------------------------------

HAVE YOU CHANGED OUT THE ORIGINAL THERMAL PASTE, sorry caps. because what killed my xbox v1.0 was i changed the themal paste, and somehow because i had put on too much it killed the cpu eventually. it also froze when it got to hot. what temps you got on your CPU in idle, under moderate load like video playback, and after a reset of console after a game?

all i got to say is, repair what i stated, and it should work. like pinheader 7. and on the modchip connect the ground to D0 instead of X

are you sure that ground wire is connected to the D0 on the modchip? looks to me like it's connected to the X portion??? additionaly one of the pinheaders are sloppy soldered. but it probably has ok connection.

ok, i'm trying that monster s-video display cable now, and it's working fine. i thought i had broken something on the actual machine itself, was about to take out the hdd and run it in chkdsk on the pc. strange it started right after that incident though... it must be that Wii2HDMI adapter which is starting to fail after 120 days use. i saw a vid on youtube of a guy who complained about "wavy lines" on his video here 0:54 mark in this video

hello, i like XBMC dash, but it's not working so good anymore, after i had it in a shoppingbag/plasticbag. it was sandwiched between my laptop and a ps3 on the other side again, and i put the plasticbag on the asphalt, and it tipped over. after that i've had this glitching in the video feed especially when i turn it on and it's cold, but after 30 minutes of runtime it works... smoothly like before. also it only affects the XBMC dash, and it's video playing, if i launch an other dash or a game, it works as normal with no glitching or whatever its called. i can launch a game through XBMC immediately after starup and it will work fine. i recently tried reinstalling the XBMC dash through the slayers autoinstaller dvd, but to no help. well it worked fine immediately after the install, but then it's back to this again. any ideas? i have a video of what is going on: https://www.bitchute.com/video/JIWfuhlw3O3k/

hahaha. yes. time to die gracefully. i have another one and that works like a tank. i'm very happy with it. i'm just experimenting with this one. idk, i think it has a curse onnit.

oh my, i let it stand on for 4 minutes and suddenly the modchip started smoking immensely. hark hark, wtf.

Hello, I have experimented a little more with my v1.0 box. And have made some progress. What I've done now is i took out the board and sprayed citrus cleaner on it, washed it under hot water then used my waterjet hydrofloss apparatus to spray under the cpu and gpu chip, Some paste came out from under there, since the watercolor was pastecolored when it flowed out here and there. I reinstalled another modchip on it of same brand aladdin xt 2. Now it's starting normally every time with green lamp, opens tray, and works a little with any disc. However i have no video output or splash screen. there is a signal or voltage or else the screen wouldn't stand and glow, but would revert back to pc signal. this was with wii2hdmi adapter. On the tv with composite the tv said no signal. You can see picture. On the d0 points, the midpoint which goes into the MCPX is not reconnected, it's just "the bridge" still. I have not attempted to reestablish the do pointry as it's supposed to be since this was the setting that worked for me last time. Other then that i haven't done anything else. Additionally, i don't remember if the HDD has original dash or xbmc, i think i put xbmc on it before it went out last time with red green lamp. Is there anything i can do to get video on it again, what is the problem here?

Hello, i had the same problem as you 1 month ago and spent 30 hours on it, so i can contribute with something hopefully. You said you lifted the "d0 pad", the point one is advised to attach the modchipwire to in all instruction pics. This middlepoint out of the 3 that makes it's tracecircuit here, is that reconnected to the tracecircuit? i can't tell from your picture since it's under the tape. it looks like there's just a big black unconnected hole to me? with a enameled coppercore wire from a batterychargers magnetic spool used? However if it is reconnected to the tracecircuit, you could have the same problem i had. my v1.0 wouldn't work, fragged as long as i connected this point to the whole 3 point ground circuit because i think i've wrecked something in the MCPX chip that this point goes into on the other side of the board. I had been applying alot of solder heat and over extended period of time and such, so i had prob destroyed something in there. However, if i just skipped that point completely and made a bridge like SSDave showed a picture of, it would work fine with and without modchip attached to the new "2 point bridge". So you could try and cut the fine handywork of a enameled copper core wire that somebody has reattached your middle do point to there. You could have done the same as me and flicked up something in that MCPX chip that lays onthe other side of it since you actually managed to lift it as i did. PS. flux and tinning the wire before trying to solder it on will prevent d0 lifts i've found out, the hard way. and it is reconstructable if you put a heap (little mountain) of flux on top (gel recommended naturally since thin fluid get's horizontal fast) stick the solderthread down where it's supposed to be and just stick a well heated iron down there for a short time. very easy to refill this hole. Also, now i'm on thin ice perhaps, but i'm unsure of if it is such a good idea to connect other ground points onto this trace circuit's ground. I don't understand why you couldn't just stick to the original 3 point d0 trace here. Why get ground from other places? if you're going to copy the SSDave picture you would have to remove the old wiring here if it's gonna "be by the book". I hope you haven't changed thermo paste, because that's what killed mine, i put on too much and it had a start idle temp at 50-54 celsius maybe up in 60-64 celsius during short gameplay and administratory tasks, with choppy animation during ftp transfer, and 2 incidents with freezescreen before it gave out from overheating... for good. EDIT: Additionally on this picture it looks from the photo as there are ALOT of solderspill over various things on that debugport under pins 19,20. check that area to.

I would suspect the HDD. Have you tried disconnecting the harddrive completely and see if you get the service screen with a error code then? Also take a good look at the IDE cable connectorpoints, where the cableleads themselves are properly into the ide adapters copperhooks or whatever it's called. Ah, i see you've done that already. ok. Well, one thing i noticed while i was busy with a problem was that the error code reporting on the led updated itself when i tried to like do as with cars to empty the bios memory completely so it doesn't hang on to old fault codes. just pull the plug on it while it's running. Other then that IDK.

yes it does work if i were to pull of the modchip. I've played a long time without modchip installed after i made that circuit. i tried a old executer2.6 with a v1.6 bios i had from 2006 with stiff telephone coppercore wires, making those stick was how i ruined the d0 area originally hehe. I couldn't wait for the modchipmail. But that's another story. However i found out what's ailing it. I think i've destroyed it with thermal paste. I opened up the cpu and gpu and the thermal paste had flowed nicely out over the entire gpu and cpu chip,even a little down on the mainboard too. Btw, to my defence it said "non conductive" on the label. the xbox was flashing green/orange or red/orange, i don't remember quite but that faultcode means theres a trace lifted or the video output is damaged i think. It would also explain the 2-3 incidents with freezes the last day while idling in dash. it permafroze up and i had to reboot. it was functioning impeccable the last 3 days with runstimes at about 15 minutes, except the last day saturday when all these freezes happened, so on saturday i had it on for about 18 hours.just let it stand idling and turned the tv off over night, next day it's a frozen picture of the dash on the screen and a highpitch sound. next bootup was not successful... ever...since. hehe. It has no video output either and the gpu is cold. cpu still gets hot though. (as in normal operating temp.) I read another thread here a guy had used a little too much thermal paste and it dropped down on his gpu, and he could barely see the text in the dashboard, however he saved it by a cleanup job. In my case it's a bit more extreme thermopaste spill and i don't think it's salvageable now, right? properflocked? Is there anything i can try to save this board? i was thinking about doing the "revive old graphics cards trick" which is to put the entire motherboard intothe oven at 70 degrees C or something for 4 hours. unsure about the temp though, it's a youtube video. What do you think? I'm also in the process of getting a new one at the used market btw.

ah, actually it's still not working. Maybe i should just buy a new one?

It's working again after two resolder attempts. Turns out it was the soldering afterall. i lifted the pad on D0, and have been trying alot to repair it in all sorts of ways. so what i'm left with in the end here is a wire thatmoves a little and slid over some of the other lead traces next to D0 while in the box or lost connection with that tiny solderingpoint that i have ripped the copper trace off of. I have taped the modchip wire stuck to the motherboard now, and fluxed and laid the wire more straight while achieving a good connection to whatever is down in that tiny pcb hole. I had no idea it would move, oops. Maybe just delete this thread, admins, unless you think it's mr bean funny. Here are some pictures from how it was before i redid it. BTW, I am not connected to the D0 point on the motherboard here, that thing is lifted and burnt. I tried repairing it and was successful i guess but the modchip wouldn't work as long as i was connected to it. Now i'm just connected to this bridge you see here, and that works. It's a bit weird? I thought it had to be connected to the d0. if you understand what i mean. it doesn't show the d0 hole so good in the pic since it's right under the crossing modchipwire.