HDShadow

Yes pics of the TSOP and your soldering if possible. If it is a v1.1 then you need to have soldered the R7D3 points on the top of the MB and the R7R3 on the underside. If it is a ST TSOP then that's all that should be necessary. Install BIOSChecker as an app and if the points are correctly soldered using that it should report as a Retail BIOS of some sort but with (TSOP?). If it doesn't then the points are not correctly soldered/bridged. Being a v1.1 the TSOP is 1MB in size (although apparently you can split it) so find your 1MB BIOS of choice (EvoXM8+ 67 as often suggest/provided by SS_Dave recommended for noobs). But make sure it is a v1.1 - if you're using a pre v584 UnleashX it may report v1.2 - v1.6 wrongly as v1.1(0b) depending on the UnleashX dash version. I'd suggest just install an EvoX dash as an app to use as you flashing tool if it is a ST TSOP. It is is really simple to use. You just put the 1MB BIOS in the EvoX Bios folder and when you launch the BIOS Flash menu you should see that BIOS listed. Select it and the EvoX flashing tool should do its thing very quickly.

If you have the original SC disc and the game saves are still on the Xbox then you'll have FTP access if you just get to the installer dash using Checkpoints as you did when softmodding. The installer is basically just a modified UnleashX dash and has all the tools needed to get a working main dash XBE on C:\. As long as the HDD is still locked the installer dash should still launch. It would help to know what the IND-BIOS boot priority is, I don't know as I've never used it but if it can be confirmed then all that should be needed is to put the appropriate main dash XBE on C:\ or whatever location it is set up to use. You can do that using the installer file manager or FTP. Once done the TSOP should boot to that dash and you can then clean up the softmod files causing the problems. Basically all a hardmodded dash is the original C:\ and E:\ MS dash files/folders but with a new main dash XBE added on C:\. With the IND-BIOS there's a configuration file added too.

This sort of problem is the main reason I always recommend using a second HDD rather than the original when you're doing almost anything on the Xbox. If you had the original retail HDD available, softmodded then fixing this would be easy. But unless you can get an installer disc or installer dash working it is going to be difficult. Are the softmod game saves still on the HDD? Cold booting the original game disc, which should work unless the DVD drive has serious issues, would allow you FTP access. You could also likely fix the problem just using the installer dash file manager. The problem is that IND-Bios is set up to look for a main dash XBE on C:\, very likely C:\evoxdash.xbe which is what most BIOS look for by default. But with what is essentially still a softmod that is not there. Also the C:\xboxdash.xbe which it would also likely try to to boot as a last resort is, with a softmod, retasked so it does not boot even to the MS dash. What you [b]probably[/b] need to do is get a working "evoxdash.xbe" onto C:\. The easiest way of doing that is, if you can get an installer disc working, is simply copy your softmod main dash, typically E:\evoxdash.xbe, to C:\. But it does depended on the original softmod and what main dash was being used. If you used Rocky5's XBSMT or a XBMC (or variant) main dash it could be set up very differently and much of the above would not be applicable.

UnleashX has a built in text reader/editor - the XBMC Notepad script is a bit rubbish. UnleashX also displays .XBX image files, XBMC doesn't, speed boost for FTP, more system info provided and, IMHO, the file manager is superior mainly due to some bad GUI decisions they made with v3.0 series XBMC. Not sure if that applies to XBMC4Gamers.

You should always have UnleashX installed as an app even if you're using XBMC or a variant as your main dash.

I think people forget how fast an IDE HDD boots in comparison to a SATA + adapter. When I switched over to using a WD SATA 320GB HDD from a WD 160GB IDE it was one of the first things I noticed, an almost doubling of the boot time from about 10 seconds to 20 seconds. All HDDs will slow down as content is added too. When a softmod is new and the HDD practically empty boot time and screen navigation are always much faster.

I do have an EvoX dash icon I made years ago. The first one's font I'd chosen was a bit eccentric so I tried it with a more conventional one cut and pasted from another EvoX icon. I've still no idea what the font is called but it looked more 'Xboxy' than that first font so I went with it. If anyone can identify what that second font is I'd be interested to know.

Paint.net is what I used too. The exact information about the imported logo, especially the specific DDS format recommended, are or should have been included in the EVTool readme along with some DDS samples too. These are the two Evox logos I eventually settled on:-

I replaced the standard Evox logo with one of my own design. I use a red theme for my Aladdin chipped machine and a green one for TSOPS. The additional thing I also edited with the EVTool to remove them was the Trademark Symbol option ie. the very small 'TM' icon beside the X, the XBOX and Microsoft logo. I just find them annoying because on two of the TV/Xbox combos I use regularly which can only display in 480i (CRT with RGB SCART cables) the 'TM' icon is unreadable. On my Xecuter 2.6CE v1.6 on a WS TV at 480p I use a different but similar customised Evox BIOS installed when I bought that Xbox pre-chipped. They removed the 'TM' too, probably for the same reason.

When I lost one side of the LED with one machine it was caused by cracked solder on one of the legs of that side's LED. But when I checked the other side, since I was there, that too was cracked and no down would have failed sometime. Both were reflowed and its worked perfectly ever since. I think the chances are it is not the solder or LEDs themselves but it pays to check the simpler to fix stuff first.

Check through the whole set of UnleashX Test LED options. The LEDs on each side have three solder points. It could just be the one(s) used for Green are the problem. It would be very unusual, to say the least, if all three on each side had cracked. If you do still get nothing check that the LEDs themselves are not busted before resigning yourself to some trace identification and repair work.

Thing to do first if its modded is use the UnleashX dash which has a LED test/change in its settings. Its a bit unusual for both sides of the LED to go at the same time but still best to check if you can get any response. The two instances I've had of such matters were both caused by dried solder cracking. The front LED board is held under some compression and if the solder has dried out it is ripe for cracking and that can be enough to break the connection. Just reflowing the solder around the LED joints solves the problem, if it is that.

No joy. Tried two different DVD PWR connectors and both the same issue. Nothing is showing on pin 7. There's clearly something wrong with that. However whilst I'd like it fully functional I have been lucky. I didn't remember that when I'd taken the working (Thomson) DVD drive out of the softmodded Xbox it originally came from I'd replaced it with a broken but recognised one. So I did have a spare, if non-working, DVD drive. For whatever reason when I put that broken one in the No DVD TSOP Xbox in question it reports Empty in whatever circumstance. If I press the Eject/Close button it reports Opening but quickly returns to Empty. This is what I wanted right from the start so I've had the solution all along. It still is not behaving as it should ie. if I use the UnleashX menu Open/Close it still only works once then requires a reboot. But what I'm going to do is simply remove that menu option so you'd never know it had a problem. Still if I can find a way to fix the pin 7 voltage issue, whatever has caused that, I'd like to try.

I'll try another one then.

Not sure if these figures are going to help as I can't make head nor tail of them and using the needle idea to get the voltages in DVD drive use I found worked but was inconsistent in result depending where the needle was placed. There's doesn't seem to be a voltage difference on any pin whether I used the, fully working, manual Eject/Close or doing it from the UX menu. As said, it opens or closes, one time but then requires a reboot to be able to close/eject. PIn 4: shows 3.3v when the tray is opened and when you close it there's a consistent drop to about 2v which returns to 3.3v when fully closed. Pin 5 (inconsistent readings): shows 3.3v when closed which goes to 0.5v when opening before settling on about 0.01v when fully open. When closed again it returns to 3.3v. Pin 6: 0.01v rises to 0.5v on opening. Pin 7: No significant voltage ie. 0.01v - 0.2v or change whatever the tray status. I tried again and again just to get a reading that was not 'low' but it reported those sort of minimal voltages throughout. This would suggest a Pin 7 issue, yes? But what/

No trace damage in the area around the the MB DVD PWR connector. Checked that with a strong magnifying glass - the MB is pretty clean. I'll try your suggestion and see if I can get decent readings.

v1.2/v1.3 MB. Not sure how I can test the pin voltages with the DVD drive in place but with that removed the MB pins:- 4: 3.3v 5: 0.1v 6: 0.1v 7: 0.3v With the DVD drive fitted on boot it reports: Empty Using the dashboard Eject menu option it reports Opening continuously (no Green flashing Busy LED) and that doesn't change. It won't Close from the menu. If you reboot the menu option to Close works but then you can not Eject from the dash menu without another reboot. Using the Eject/Close button instead, on boot it reports: Empty as well. If you Eject it will momentarily report Open then switch to Closing even though the tray is open. Green Busy LED flashing. When you then press the button it closes the tray but momentarily reports Opening when its actually Closing but quickly swaps to Empty. So to summarise:- Front button works as normal but incorrect reporting of the tray status when open. Menu option to Eject/Close works one time then requires a reboot. Different reporting behaviour but still wrong.

Damn. Found the problem with the DVD status fix, sort of, if not the cause. There is a fault of some sort with the DVD PWR system somewhere. I've never tested this Xbox thoroughly (bought for parts originally) with a working DVD drive. When I have used one I've been using the eject/close button and that's working fine. What is not is the dashboard (UX) eject/close options. On initial boot it seems normal and you can eject the tray no problem but after that the dash option won't close the tray. To get that function back you have to reboot. Then you can't eject again without another reboot. The drive cold launches discs and plays them perfectly, it is just that the status reporting is wrong. Although the front button works as it should the dash often reports Checking or Closing for ages then goes to Empty even though a disc is in the tray that's being read. Sometimes it reports Open when its closed and visa versa. The disc drive is good so it is clearly a status reporting issue (wrong voltage/failed resistor?) which probably explains why I have not been able to get the no DVD status bridging fix to work. Any ideas what/where the problem could be? I've checked the MB for obvious signs of component failure around the DVD PWR MB connector, front and back and everything looks OK. No trace damage that I can see either. Its no big deal because I was surprised to be able to get this Xbox working at all. I just didn't expect there to be another significant problem I hadn't noticed after all the work I'd put into it.

I think I've found the problem and its that the wires I've been using, pushed into the corresponding sockets actually aren't making good contact. When I tested the voltage on the bridging wire it was showing zero so obviously not making good contact as the 4 socket definitely was at 3.3v. I swapped over to using a pin header pin to check the voltage on 4 and that was fine and then it occurred to me I could actually fit a pin header with just the two required pins in place and soldering a bridge between them. Need to be careful to insulate it properly, can't have metal pins flopping around at the end of a cable anywhere near the MB. But apart from that it seems like a good solution.

I'm getting no joy with this cable mod. Just been trying to get it to work and it is not behaving as described. Tracing the wires back I've bridged what I'm 99% sure are the corresponding sockets at the DVD plug end of the cable. Done with with a hoop of 30 gauge Kinar wire and when that didn't work I tried some thin x5 stranded wire. I even tried swapping to pin/socket 5 in case I'd mixed up the eject/close connections somehow. In both cases the tray intially reports Empty but then changes to Open. Press the eject/close button and it goes to Init and the front LED starts green flashing (Busy) and sticks there even after reboot. I cannot work out what is wrong. I checked the pin/socket 4 voltage at the DVD drive end (using the exposed part on the side of the plug) and it reports just under 3.3v. Pin/socket 7 reports negligible voltage whether the bridge is in place or not which is odd as it should be connected to that 3.3.v supply pin/socket 4 supply.

Un Francais avec mauvais(?) en orthographe. If I've understood correctly: You have installed Rocky5's Softmodding tool + XBMC Emustation and after many attempts you are getting nothing. You need to give more information, en anglais c'est possible, to be able to help you.

Thats the FATX file limit 4GiBs. The Xbox doesn't like any single file bigger that that but its not your problem I think. From the size of the ISO you're talking about I'm pretty sure you've download a redump of the game, simply a bit by bit exact copy, which when unzipped is typically 7.2GB. What you need to do is use XDVDMulleter Beta 10.2 to extract the actual game content from that first. Once done you can either FTP the game to the Xbox or create a XISO which can either be burned to disc or FTPed and installed if you have the right tools to launch ISO games.

The problem with replacements is that they are variable in grip, often because they've obviously been made of a more flexible or softer rubber/rubber substitute. The belts sold as Samsung XB360 disc drive replacements are usually good. The original belt, inside diameter, is 22mm as accurately as I can measure it. I'm certain of that that because they have to be stretched a minute amount to fit an old (now removed for circulation) UK £1 round coin. Those are/were 22.5mm in diameter. You definite don't want to go too tight as others have said. I tried an 18mm diameter drive belt and because it was too light it actually slipped on the drive pulleys causing the same eject problem as if it had been too loose.

As said earlier I've been using a customised version of SS_Daves EvoxM8+ 67. I changed it using EVTool to use all free space for F, the logo and the boot priority. Nothing else. The option to Ignore the HHD Partition Table was left unticked. When I installed the dash I specfically checked F with XBPartitioner v1.3 and it show correct cluster size 16K and the correct 149GiB of free space for Ext.Drive 6 when using a 160GB HDD. I still used Rocky5's XB HDD Partition Table Writer tool > use all free space for F option and reformatted F again just to make sure. There was 60GB of free space on F at the time the 5GB of DLC content disappeared so the total content on F must have been well under 100GiB at the time, nowhere near that 137GiB limit. The BIOS should be complying with the EVTool All F edit and if not should surely also be complying with the XB HDD Partition Table setting to use all for F. I'm a bit skeptical about the partitioning/BIOS setting being the cause.

I meant is there anything else wrong with the specific No DVD BIOS included in HeXEn. I know the No DVD works, although I didn't know it still required the power connection to the DVD drive to function. Not knowing that is probably why I had problems with the TSOPed and chipped Xbox covered in another thread here.