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Gerdo

Troubleshooting Direction

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I have a version 1.0 xbox that was my first attempt at a mod however I did not get that far.

When I first got it, the drive would not open and it would power up when plugged in.  I broke the seal on the case and had a look inside.

The clock capacitor threw-up over itself and drained over the board.  I removed the capacitor and cleaned up the mess.  Also had to repair some traces on the bottom of the board.  I could then turn the xbox on and off and also reset it.

I cleaned up the Thomson Drive and got that to open and read disks.

Was even playing Burnout (badly scratched) from disk as well as Battlefront.

Then everything changed.

Now when I power the xbox, it will make three attempts to start.  I can watch the two cooling fans start and stop. On the third attempt, the fans tend to keep running, however sometimes the unit powers off.  Front leds blinking red and green.   I can hear and feel the DVD and hard drive winding up.  At no time do I get video.

There have been no hard or soft mods to this xbox.

A general review of the board does not show any bad capacitors or fried resistors.  I have not found any additional bad traces, however I can give it another check with the meter.

Any suggestions for troubleshooting, or is this unit kaput and ready for part supply?

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1 hour ago, Gerdo said:

Any suggestions for troubleshooting?

I would try and power on with both drives disconnected and see what happens.

You should see one of these errors 7,8, for HDD, 10,11 for DVD on the screen

If it powers on with a error message on the screen then connect each drive separately and see what happens.

 

1 hour ago, Gerdo said:

A general review of the board does not show any bad capacitors or fried resistors.

Capacitors can look ok but still be faulty but in this case I don't think this is your problem

I always suggest that you post a pic if the main board in high quality and if you can post both sides and you can use a picture sharing site and post the link 

 

Cheers

SS Dave


Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.

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Thanks SS_Dave.

I will take another look at the board and post some high resolution pics.  I have an ESR meter to check caps if any are suspect.

I am not getting any video output however so I can't check the codes.  The video cable works on another xbox I have.  I'll double check the video connector on the motherboard as well.  To make sure no damaged pins.

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Check the LED flashes as some times that can give you a idea whats wrong.

814654469_Xboxerrorleds.jpg.4a41baa066368586bceb1b8b1c579850.jpg

 

Cheers

SS Dave


Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.

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I rechecked the trace repair I did and it's still good.  I checked the other traces that appeared to have some damage however they have continuity.

You can also see I was in the process of adding an Aladdin chip to this board, however I did not get as far as using the chip.

As noted in my second post, I do not get video, however I checked the pins on the motherboard connector and they look good.

Sorry for the dark pics.  Either too much glare or not enough light.  I better with a welder than a camera.

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Disconnect the D0 wire and see what happens?

 

Cheers

SS Dave


Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.

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I disconnected DO, reinstalled the board and powered up without DVD or HDD.

It no longer makes the three attempts to start like before and only flashing green LED.

I installed the HDD and tried again.  Only flashing green.

I installed DVD and no more flashing green.

So I'm making progress.

Pressing eject button tries to open DVD however the belt may need to be cleaned.  It appears to try to open the drive.

Still no video.  I tried another video cable and still the same.  No video.

I'm further ahead.  I appreciate the help.

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If you have genuine game disk try loading that.

Also is there any sound when booting?

 

Cheers

SS Dave


Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.

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Also is there any sound when booting?

When powering I hear a sound from the DVD.  Same sound I hear when I press eject.

I swapped power cord and video cable over to a good version 1.4  with good Samsung DVD.  Tried Halo 2 original DVD works great.  Also Splinter Cell.

I swapped the power and video back to faulty xbox and put Halo 2 in Thomson by removing top of Thomson case.  Still no video.

I pulled the Samsung DVD from the good xbox and put in the faulty unit.  No video again. I get that a noise now from the Samsung when starting that sounds like the DVD is accessing.  When I push the eject button it makes a sound to open but does not.  The LED start blinking green after I press eject.

If I was troubleshooting a car, I'd say I had a bad ground or too much resistance somewhere.

I put the Thomson back.  I pressed the eject.  It does not eject, however the LED blink green and then go back to normal.

I tried another power cable to the DVD and ribbon cable.  No difference.

 

 

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Do you have a multi meter?

Can you test the 5 volt supply at the 12pin power plug

The yellow wire should have around 12 volt and the 3 red wires (they are all linked)should have 5 volt.

The black wires are ground(0 volt)

 

Did you fit the mod chip?

 

Cheers

SS Dave


Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.

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When powered:

Yellow: 11.75V

Red: 5V

Grey: 3.3V

Green 2.5V

Orange: 3.3V

Purple: 3.3V

Only Purple remains at 3.3V when powered off.

I did not install the mod chip.

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The voltages are fine

And will the DVD drive from the 1.0(non working Xbox )work in the good Xbox?

The green flash when you press is the Xbox telling the DVD to open.

Can you try a different modchip ob that board, when you are don't forget about the D0.

It is starting to look like possible damage to the LPC port

 

 

Cheers

SS Dave


Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.

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And will the DVD drive from the 1.0(non working Xbox )work in the good Xbox?

Thomson works like a charm in the good xbox.

Quote

... don't forget about the D0.

Looks like I previously had D0 hooked up as a V1.2-V1.5.  I've now corrected it to V1.0.

image.png.b31a6c5d4969245cb9b7d3180bb15dae.png

I've installed a fresh Aladdin XT Plus2.

When I start-up now, it's back to starting 3 times.  It now beeps in between each start.  The LED are back to flashing red and green. Still no video.  I pulled the Aladdin chip and it does the same thing.

It's getting late here (east coast of Canada).  Again, I appreciate all the help. I owe you a few pints.

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Something to try in the morning.

You could try and reflow the pins in the LPC port as it may have had a modchip fitted to fix a corrupted TSOP chip and has now developed a dry solder joint on one  of the pins.

 

Cheers

SS Dave


Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.

 

 

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Do you have the D0 wire soldered to gnd on the modchip or motherboard?

If you have soldered it to the chip you will get these error because there seams to be something wrong with the Aladdin XT Plus2. Solder D0 on any gnd to the motherboard.

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15 hours ago, Gerdo said:

Looks like I previously had D0 hooked up as a V1.2-V1.5.  I've now corrected it to V1.0.

 The Xbox will not boot if you have D0 connected to ground and no modchip connected to the LPC debug port.  D0 grounded tells the console to boot the BIOS from the modchip (LPC bus) not the onboard flash memory chip.  Thus, the FRAG on startup when D0 is tied to ground.

Solution: Finish installation of the modchip. Solder in the pin header and connect the modchip to it.

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Do you have the D0 wire soldered to gnd on the modchip or motherboard?

D0 was wired to the motherboard.  Not the modchip.

Quote

 Finish installation of the modchip. Solder in the pin header and connect the modchip to it.

Tried that this morning, however no change.

 

Based on SS_Dave's comment regarding dry solder, I took a closer look at the pin header I installed.  It appears that I had a short.  Might also have trace damage.

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Since finding this I've been checking traces.  I've removed the pin header and D0 wire and powered up again.  Same problem as before.  System tries to start three times.  Front LED flashing red and green.  I now get a beep in between starts (which is new).  Still no video.

This board originally had a bad clock capacitor and I had to repair one trace.  I was looking for any additional damage to repair before pulling you back into my adventure.  Presently reading up on LPC pinout.  I don't have another Version 1.0 so its difficult to compare.

I have a 1.6, 1.4, and a 1.2.  I'm avoiding tearing into the 1.2 because its working so well.  Modchip, SSD, XBMC4Gamers Dash, copies of my burned disks...

I could toss the board into the bin, however I like a challenge.  Its also a bad excuse to keep from the plastering and painting my wife wants done.

Comment / suggestions welcome.

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That looks like flux inside the red box

Undo all your work including the trace repair and power up the board only (no drives) and see what happens you may need to use the eject button to power on instead of the power button.

 

Cheers

SS Dave


Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.

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That looks like flux inside the red box

Yes it was.  I cleaned that up as well as removed all the pins and D0 wire. 

 

I've found that I have bad traces from Pin 11 (LAD0) and Pin 7 (LAD3).  I've found locations to bypass the traces for Pin 11 an d 7.

Unfortunately Pin 9 is shorting internally in the board.  I'm making the assumption this is a multi-layered board with internal ground traces.

 

I need to give this some thought.  I can run new traces, however Pin 9 has me a little stumped.

Edited by Gerdo

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28 minutes ago, Gerdo said:

Unfortunately Pin 9 is shorting internally in the board.

Shorting to what

Pin 9 is the 3.3 volt supply

 

Cheers

SS Dave


Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.

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To ground.  It's my understanding that Pin 9 is 3.3V.  However I get continuity between this pin and surrounding grounds.

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On a version 1.1 board that works I get 350 ohm and on a 1.0 board that's faulty I get 600 ohm and 1.2 is about 350 ohm as well.

 

Cheers

SS Dave


Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.

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Thanks for the help, but I think I'll put this one on the shelf for a while.  Maybe I'll have an eureka over a few beer.

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