Gerdo

KaosEngineer, Thanks for the info. After wasting too much time, I pulled my USB adapter apart (which I typically only use for SATA) and found a botched trace. With a jumper installed it finally started working again. Model Name ST310211 A USB Device \\.\PHYSICALDRIVE2 This drive was from a previously unmodified Original Xbox. I'm using using XboxHDM-2.3-Beta4. I have my eeprom.bin file from the version 1.1 board loaded into the XboxHDM-2.3-Beta4 directory. I've installed the Clean C and E files you provided in another thread on XboxHDM. C content as shown. I unlocked the drive (Option 6) that doesn't disable the lock. Started XboxHDM. All partitions created ok. Program activated the FatX Partition Table ok. Program said xbox-partition table found on /dev/hda Proceeded to format the partitions and build xbox-drive however I got the following errors. From another thread you provided advice, I checked my Disk Manager. Suggestions? Regardless, thanks for the help.

Hey everyone, So, I set up a Raspberry Pi 2 to read eeprom from a 1.1 board. After more than a few attempts I realized my problems were due to operator error (ie. me). Nonetheless I got it to work and now I can recover eeprom from some boards I have. Excellent. New life skill. I also have some Seagate and WD drives from original xbox that I attempted to use XboxHDM. Hooked everything up through USB adapter (see photo). Here's the issue. I could identify both drives when I connected them. However I could not unlock them. To troubleshoot, I tried a 500GB WD Sata through the same USB adapter and proceeded to setup that drive. I now have the eeprom transferred and a working softmodded 1.1. Great! After more reading, I tried to access the old Seagate and WD drives again. Now I can't identify the drives through XboxHDM even though I did before. I've tried multiple times. Tried every jumper setting on both drives, but no luck. I even tried other versions of XboxHDM. Quite possibly I just ran out of talent and this is more "operator error". Does anyone have any suggestions?

Thanks for the help, but I think I'll put this one on the shelf for a while. Maybe I'll have an eureka over a few beer.

0.5 ohm. Quite a step change from you readings.

To ground. It's my understanding that Pin 9 is 3.3V. However I get continuity between this pin and surrounding grounds.

Yes it was. I cleaned that up as well as removed all the pins and D0 wire. I've found that I have bad traces from Pin 11 (LAD0) and Pin 7 (LAD3). I've found locations to bypass the traces for Pin 11 an d 7. Unfortunately Pin 9 is shorting internally in the board. I'm making the assumption this is a multi-layered board with internal ground traces. I need to give this some thought. I can run new traces, however Pin 9 has me a little stumped.

D0 was wired to the motherboard. Not the modchip. Tried that this morning, however no change. Based on SS_Dave's comment regarding dry solder, I took a closer look at the pin header I installed. It appears that I had a short. Might also have trace damage. Since finding this I've been checking traces. I've removed the pin header and D0 wire and powered up again. Same problem as before. System tries to start three times. Front LED flashing red and green. I now get a beep in between starts (which is new). Still no video. This board originally had a bad clock capacitor and I had to repair one trace. I was looking for any additional damage to repair before pulling you back into my adventure. Presently reading up on LPC pinout. I don't have another Version 1.0 so its difficult to compare. I have a 1.6, 1.4, and a 1.2. I'm avoiding tearing into the 1.2 because its working so well. Modchip, SSD, XBMC4Gamers Dash, copies of my burned disks... I could toss the board into the bin, however I like a challenge. Its also a bad excuse to keep from the plastering and painting my wife wants done. Comment / suggestions welcome.

Thomson works like a charm in the good xbox. Looks like I previously had D0 hooked up as a V1.2-V1.5. I've now corrected it to V1.0. I've installed a fresh Aladdin XT Plus2. When I start-up now, it's back to starting 3 times. It now beeps in between each start. The LED are back to flashing red and green. Still no video. I pulled the Aladdin chip and it does the same thing. It's getting late here (east coast of Canada). Again, I appreciate all the help. I owe you a few pints.

When powered: Yellow: 11.75V Red: 5V Grey: 3.3V Green 2.5V Orange: 3.3V Purple: 3.3V Only Purple remains at 3.3V when powered off. I did not install the mod chip.

When powering I hear a sound from the DVD. Same sound I hear when I press eject. I swapped power cord and video cable over to a good version 1.4 with good Samsung DVD. Tried Halo 2 original DVD works great. Also Splinter Cell. I swapped the power and video back to faulty xbox and put Halo 2 in Thomson by removing top of Thomson case. Still no video. I pulled the Samsung DVD from the good xbox and put in the faulty unit. No video again. I get that a noise now from the Samsung when starting that sounds like the DVD is accessing. When I push the eject button it makes a sound to open but does not. The LED start blinking green after I press eject. If I was troubleshooting a car, I'd say I had a bad ground or too much resistance somewhere. I put the Thomson back. I pressed the eject. It does not eject, however the LED blink green and then go back to normal. I tried another power cable to the DVD and ribbon cable. No difference.

I disconnected DO, reinstalled the board and powered up without DVD or HDD. It no longer makes the three attempts to start like before and only flashing green LED. I installed the HDD and tried again. Only flashing green. I installed DVD and no more flashing green. So I'm making progress. Pressing eject button tries to open DVD however the belt may need to be cleaned. It appears to try to open the drive. Still no video. I tried another video cable and still the same. No video. I'm further ahead. I appreciate the help.

I'd guess 50 green and 50 red. Digital Core Error?

I rechecked the trace repair I did and it's still good. I checked the other traces that appeared to have some damage however they have continuity. You can also see I was in the process of adding an Aladdin chip to this board, however I did not get as far as using the chip. As noted in my second post, I do not get video, however I checked the pins on the motherboard connector and they look good. Sorry for the dark pics. Either too much glare or not enough light. I better with a welder than a camera.

Thanks SS_Dave. I will take another look at the board and post some high resolution pics. I have an ESR meter to check caps if any are suspect. I am not getting any video output however so I can't check the codes. The video cable works on another xbox I have. I'll double check the video connector on the motherboard as well. To make sure no damaged pins.

I have a version 1.0 xbox that was my first attempt at a mod however I did not get that far. When I first got it, the drive would not open and it would power up when plugged in. I broke the seal on the case and had a look inside. The clock capacitor threw-up over itself and drained over the board. I removed the capacitor and cleaned up the mess. Also had to repair some traces on the bottom of the board. I could then turn the xbox on and off and also reset it. I cleaned up the Thomson Drive and got that to open and read disks. Was even playing Burnout (badly scratched) from disk as well as Battlefront. Then everything changed. Now when I power the xbox, it will make three attempts to start. I can watch the two cooling fans start and stop. On the third attempt, the fans tend to keep running, however sometimes the unit powers off. Front leds blinking red and green. I can hear and feel the DVD and hard drive winding up. At no time do I get video. There have been no hard or soft mods to this xbox. A general review of the board does not show any bad capacitors or fried resistors. I have not found any additional bad traces, however I can give it another check with the meter. Any suggestions for troubleshooting, or is this unit kaput and ready for part supply?