Bowlsnapper Posted June 18 Report Share Posted June 18 2 minutes ago, NeMesiS said: Well Ryzee119 is only using a 150mA regulator for 3.3v... 5.0v is not really used directly for powering the components. MakeMHz moves the 1.8v regulator over to the QSB board. But uses 2x 3.3v regulators on the HDMI board. Either those tiny regulators don't produce enough power on their own or it's to help with noise I'm not entirely sure why they've done that. I've been working on a 2-layer design but might go with 4-layer, keeping data traces in the center sandwiched between alotta grounding. But the consoles shielding should be enough for most external noise. I tried to boot a motherboard outside of the console without any shielding one time and I couldn't get any picture via component cable whatsoever... I've never tried booting a mobo outside the case. That would be fun. And thank god for your knowledge! Time for sleep. Tomcat, you ever sleep, man? lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dtomcat18 Posted June 18 Report Share Posted June 18 2 minutes ago, Bowlsnapper said: I've never tried booting a mobo outside the case. That would be fun. And thank god for your knowledge! Time for sleep. Tomcat, you ever sleep, man? lol Headed that way now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Donnie-Burger Posted June 18 Report Share Posted June 18 1 hour ago, NeMesiS said: All good... Have you or anyone else installed one of the HDMI mods before? Could there be any improvements in regards to installation? I've done quite a few installs. I've tried various methods with the flex cable install. Seems to be the hardest part for people. Not really sure on how that could be improved. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
big F Posted June 18 Report Share Posted June 18 Anything that opens up the OG more is good in my book. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowlsnapper Posted June 18 Report Share Posted June 18 7 hours ago, Donnie-Burger said: I've done quite a few installs. I've tried various methods with the flex cable install. Seems to be the hardest part for people. Not really sure on how that could be improved. I'm not sure if it CAN be improved... Unless you engineer a solderless mod. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MadMartigan Posted June 18 Report Share Posted June 18 59 minutes ago, Bowlsnapper said: I'm not sure if it CAN be improved... Unless you engineer a solderless mod. That’s what we thought about 16TB HDDs and direct HDMI ten years ago. Maybe something a little less flimsy. Something along the lines of an LPC rebuild board with small ribbon extensions. Just brainstorming here. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowlsnapper Posted June 18 Report Share Posted June 18 28 minutes ago, MadMartigan said: That’s what we thought about 16TB HDDs and direct HDMI ten years ago. Maybe something a little less flimsy. Something along the lines of an LPC rebuild board with small ribbon extensions. Just brainstorming here. Fair Enough Not a BAD suggestion, actually. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
big F Posted June 18 Report Share Posted June 18 51 minutes ago, MadMartigan said: That’s what we thought about 16TB HDDs and direct HDMI ten years ago. Maybe something a little less flimsy. Something along the lines of an LPC rebuild board with small ribbon extensions. Just brainstorming here. and before that we had the 160Gb limit on hard-drives. 160gb seems so tiny now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowlsnapper Posted June 18 Report Share Posted June 18 2 hours ago, big F said: and before that we had the 160Gb limit on hard-drives. 160gb seems so tiny now I remember when 160 was fucking GARGANTUAN. I was king of all my friends with modded xboxes... that I modded. lol Because I had the biggest HDD and the most shit. I would FTP them stuff over a crossover cable when they wanted something. God I miss being 18... when nothing else really mattered. It's been almost 2 decades since I put a modchip in an xbox and putting that XBlast Aladdin in my 1.6 Halo console made me feel like a teenager again. Especially getting super fucking pissed at it until I removed BT and it booted. Perfect nostalgia. I needed that. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trencherfield Posted June 18 Report Share Posted June 18 I have a batch of the XboxHDMI pcb's and the components I've had for a good while but not got around to doing them yet due to other reasons. I was spending so much time making openxeniums etc as well then made the Xecuter 3 r3dux clone (detailed on here). Doing some company work at the mo, but will maybe get back into this shortly.... I stopped making/selling and left the Xbox stuff for a while. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowlsnapper Posted June 18 Report Share Posted June 18 5 minutes ago, trencherfield said: I have a batch of the XboxHDMI pcb's and the components I've had for a good while but not got around to doing them yet due to other reasons. I was spending so much time making openxeniums etc as well then made the Xecuter 3 r3dux clone (detailed on here). Doing some company work at the mo, but will maybe get back into this shortly.... I stopped making/selling and left the Xbox stuff for a while. Did you source the parts from an X3? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trencherfield Posted June 18 Report Share Posted June 18 1 hour ago, Bowlsnapper said: Did you source the parts from an X3? No, as per the BOM in the github. But I have several X3's and have also disassembled an X3CE to interchange the parts to move further with it. He has released an update to the code but I haven't recompiled the newer release 1.1 as of yet as I left the Xbox stuff for a while, so didn't bother yet. On 1.0 r3dux code I got it to boot to dash, but the code was incomplete for the XBE call back to bios function as it stood. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Donnie-Burger Posted June 18 Report Share Posted June 18 I'm following this thread closely since MakeMhz decided to make hd+ only work with stellat now so its $160+ no matter what. Dustin did say it was to reduce cost but it increased cost to the customer. He didn't have a problem selling them before all those years so we know its just him pushing $100 Stellar chip on people as its transparent. Either way it's awesome to have competition for the masses. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowlsnapper Posted June 18 Report Share Posted June 18 34 minutes ago, trencherfield said: No, as per the BOM in the github. But I have several X3's and have also disassembled an X3CE to interchange the parts to move further with it. He has released an update to the code but I haven't recompiled the newer release 1.1 as of yet as I left the Xbox stuff for a while, so didn't bother yet. On 1.0 r3dux code I got it to boot to dash, but the code was incomplete for the XBE call back to bios function as it stood. Meaning it wouldn't IGR or boot any XBEs? How the hell did you get the components? Those things were impossible to find when I looked a few months ago... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trencherfield Posted June 18 Report Share Posted June 18 10 minutes ago, Bowlsnapper said: Meaning it wouldn't IGR or boot any XBEs? How the hell did you get the components? Those things were impossible to find when I looked a few months ago... Correct. When you launch an XBE from the dash, the kernel in memory does a soft reboot, so reads the bios again. I bought the stuff ages ago before the the proverbial hit the fan so to speak with the IC market. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NeMesiS Posted June 18 Author Report Share Posted June 18 5 hours ago, Bowlsnapper said: I'm not sure if it CAN be improved... Unless you engineer a solderless mod. Fitment could be improved on the v1.0-1.5 flex cable. But I'd just be nit picking. Do you think larger pads would help with soldering? 4 hours ago, MadMartigan said: Maybe something a little less flimsy. Something along the lines of an LPC rebuild board with small ribbon extensions. Just brainstorming here. I thought about the possibility of removing the encoder from the motherboard. Then to solder a PCB (with connector) to corresponding pads in it's place. On a side note I tried designing something similar for underneath the video connector. The idea was for it to go underneath where the video connector used to be. And to solder a wire to SPDIF pad then feed the wire through one of the holes. But those holes are rather small only allowing 28/30awg kynar wire through. It would be better to but the PCB on the top side of the video connector. But i was trying to avoid that as it might get in the way of the 3d printed bracket. I'm trying to do a single mounting bracket and hdmi port thingy. I figured this would be alot easier for installation. 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowlsnapper Posted June 18 Report Share Posted June 18 5 minutes ago, NeMesiS said: Fitment could be improved on the v1.0-1.5 flex cable. But I'd just be nit picking. Do you think larger pads would help with soldering? I thought about the possibility of removing the encoder from the motherboard. Then to solder a PCB (with connector) to corresponding pads in it's place. On a side note I tried designing something similar for underneath the video connector. The idea was for it to go underneath where the video connector used to be. And to solder a wire to SPDIF pad then feed the wire through one of the holes. But those holes are rather small only allowing 28/30awg kynar wire through. It would be better to but the PCB on the top side of the video connector. But i was trying to avoid that as it might get in the way of the 3d printed bracket. I'm trying to do a single mounting bracket and hdmi port thingy. I figured this would be alot easier for installation. It WOULD be easier to solder without the IC there... I say try the SPDIF board and see what you think. Mounting hardware looks like a good idea to me! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dtomcat18 Posted June 18 Report Share Posted June 18 36 minutes ago, NeMesiS said: Fitment could be improved on the v1.0-1.5 flex cable. But I'd just be nit picking. Do you think larger pads would help with soldering? I thought about the possibility of removing the encoder from the motherboard. Then to solder a PCB (with connector) to corresponding pads in it's place. On a side note I tried designing something similar for underneath the video connector. The idea was for it to go underneath where the video connector used to be. And to solder a wire to SPDIF pad then feed the wire through one of the holes. But those holes are rather small only allowing 28/30awg kynar wire through. It would be better to but the PCB on the top side of the video connector. But i was trying to avoid that as it might get in the way of the 3d printed bracket. I'm trying to do a single mounting bracket and hdmi port thingy. I figured this would be alot easier for installation. You can make it a bit easier like this: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowlsnapper Posted June 19 Report Share Posted June 19 6 minutes ago, Dtomcat18 said: You can make it a bit easier like this: ? All ground? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Donnie-Burger Posted June 19 Report Share Posted June 19 4 minutes ago, Bowlsnapper said: ? All ground? This is just an alternate method to bridging the 2 points per hd+ install. Single shot instead of the 4 into 2 bridges. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowlsnapper Posted June 19 Report Share Posted June 19 1 minute ago, Donnie-Burger said: This is just an alternate method to bridging the 2 points per hd+ install. Single shot instead of the 4 into 2 bridges. Oh, what enables AV output I remember. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NeMesiS Posted June 19 Author Report Share Posted June 19 15 hours ago, Donnie-Burger said: I've done quite a few installs. I've tried various methods with the flex cable install. Seems to be the hardest part for people. Not really sure on how that could be improved. Nice work by the way, nice board too. I like the boards with copper looking traces. You might be interested in this: XeniumICE by NeMesiS - Page 24 - www.emuxtras.net I compiled a list of replacement capacitors for all versions. Replacing the CPU capacitors with polymers can significantly improve picture quality. 2 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trencherfield Posted June 19 Report Share Posted June 19 NeMesis, There are those pcb's with those stubby springs on the edge or face I've seen in various equipment PCB's .... the ones not unlike the small sim card springs for example. Dunno what pitch they go down to, have to ask the fab houses on that if they do it. If you had a pcb that fitted over the entire top of the video encoder, cut out in the middle with corresponding pins on sides (some for location fitting) and then a small pressure clamp over it then something like that might work as a solder-less fitment maybe. Other than that it's those spider springs which are pretty terrible really. Can't imagine 20+ row of those being reliable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowlsnapper Posted June 19 Report Share Posted June 19 3 hours ago, NeMesiS said: Fitment could be improved on the v1.0-1.5 flex cable. But I'd just be nit picking. Do you think larger pads would help with soldering? I thought about the possibility of removing the encoder from the motherboard. Then to solder a PCB (with connector) to corresponding pads in it's place. On a side note I tried designing something similar for underneath the video connector. The idea was for it to go underneath where the video connector used to be. And to solder a wire to SPDIF pad then feed the wire through one of the holes. But those holes are rather small only allowing 28/30awg kynar wire through. It would be better to but the PCB on the top side of the video connector. But i was trying to avoid that as it might get in the way of the 3d printed bracket. I'm trying to do a single mounting bracket and hdmi port thingy. I figured this would be alot easier for installation. I'm honestly not sure what the pads look like now, so I couldn't say... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trencherfield Posted June 19 Report Share Posted June 19 Hmmm nice screw hole there on 1.0 to 1.4 as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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