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Im looking for some ideas to try before I look for a replacement xbox. Im not sure if i can do anything else at this point. My xbox was soft modded for some time, but I wanted to do a tsop to unlock the drive and then put in a 2.5 inch 500 gb sata drive. I did the tsop (i have a v1.5) soldered the 2 point and flashed the tsop with hexen 2021 disc. Put in my sata driver with adpater and 80 pin cable and everything was great. I started uploaded the library that i have. I also removed the supercap. I was down to my really scrached discs and was trying to see i could get good copies from them, but gave up. I picked up some new titles and went to install them and the xbox wouldnt boot. I get the evo/xbox splash screen to a blank screen with the orange led. Tried booting hexen or soft mod or game disc and nothing. I tried cleaning out the dvd drive, that didnt help. The last thing i did with the drive was watch it with the cover off. It doesnt appear to be trying to focus nor does it appear to be emitting a laser. It does move the laser head unit on the rails. But i dont think this should stop a boot to harddrive? I went back to the ide drive and the 40 pin cable and no change. I tried combinations of hooking up pc cdrom to the ide and dvd on the power. Thought maybe the dvd drive was corrupting the ide bus. Ive checked my caps and board multiple times. The only thing i was suspicious of was a pin point spot on the nvidia chip, i hope it didnt melt itself inside. So thats where im at, i think my dvd is toast and maybe the ide on the motherboard is broken.

Hello guys, This post will be somewhat long because I want to include as much relevant information as possible. I have a v1.1 NTSC-U Xbox console, which I purchased brand new back in 2003. I modded it with a Xecuter 2.0 Pro mod chip sometime around 2004. It worked great for 2-3 years with no issues whatsoever. Then, out of nowhere, it started to intermittently FRAG. Sometimes it would boot just fine, but other times the Xbox would flash red and green and require me to reboot it 10 times in a row before it would boot to dashboard. Also, sometimes the Xbox would boot just fine and work for 2-3 hours straight and then, for no apparent reason, lose the video output. Interestingly enough, it would lose the video output only, but not audio. I tried different BIOS versions as well as different banks on the Xecuter 2.0 mod chip, but to no avail. After all that, I decided that it was too much trouble and just stopped using this FRAGging Xbox. Fast forward to 2020, and I decided to connect this old v1.1 Xbox to my TV and test it out. It worked great for the first two weeks, but then started FRAGging just like 14 years ago. It behaves exactly the same way as it used to – it might boot just fine 10 times in a row, or it might FRAG 20 times in a row. I reflashed the BIOS again, but to no avail. I also noticed a few more things. First, the removal of the DVD drive and/or hard drive does not seem to affect the FRAGging at all. The console can still FRAG with both drives completely disconnected. Also, if the Xbox boots to dashboard with no issues, I can easily make it lose the video output by knocking on the table on which the Xbox is sitting or by touching the AV cable. If I reboot the console immediately after that, the Xbox would usually FRAG. Bad AV cable, right? Nope. I tried four different AV cables/adapters and this is happening with all of them. All said cables work perfectly with my v1.0 Xbox and no amount of knocking on the table or touching the cables can make this second Xbox lose the video output. Here is the list of AV cables that I tried with the same result (i.e. intermittent FRAGging on my v1.1 Xbox and no issues on my v1.0 Xbox): 1. OEM Microsoft Composite cable 2. OEM Microsoft AV pack 3. OEM Microsoft HD AV pack 4. Third party HD AV pack Here are a few more things that I did: * Sprayed the AV connector in the Xbox with DeoxIT D5 and inspected it for damage * Reflowed all solder joints on the AV connector, twice * Inspected the traces on the motherboard near the AV connector Here is a list of things that I could still do (but would rather not): * Stop relying on the AV connector. Instead, solder the wires to it and add component video and coaxial audio jacks to the back of the Xbox console. Unfortunately, there is no guarantee that this will solve the FRAG issue. This Xbox was used by an adult and was never dropped or abused. At this point, I am not sure what else I can do besides soldering wires to the AV port and adding audio and video output jacks to the back of the Xbox. Does anyone have any idea of what might be happening? P.S. The pictures of the motherboard are attached to this post.

I have Xbox moded with Aladdin XT Plus2 (I bought it moded few years ago). ODD started failing a while back (had much trouble to recognize disc and even if it did, it had trouble reading it to rip it to HDD). I eventually ignored it and started to upload games through FTP. But recently HDD started failing, it does clicking noise at startup, sometimes it doesn't start and displays error page "service required...", if it eventually starts then sometimes it works ok and sometimes it crashes during operation with HDD making those clicking noise. So, i opened my Xbox, connected HDD to one of my PC I use for older games (Core 2 Duo, WinXP, ATA connector on motherboard) and it started ok, it was seen in device manager, but disk management didn't see it. I googled around and it seems drives are ATA locked on Xbox and that is why I didn't see any partitions. So I run SMART Extended test using smartmontools and it didn't detect any errors, also SMART attributes didn't show anything unusual (I'm familiar with this since I do computer repairs). So I googled some more and it seems I could just insert another ATA HDD to Xbox and use recovery disc to prepare HDD. I had some spare Samsung 40GB so I inserted it in Xbox and I have disc labeled as "XBOX Master Installer v2 (recovery)" but I couldn't get it to work because ODD have trouble reading it. So I'm really in a pickle. Is there some alternative way to do this without replacing ODD?

Hello Friends. I need some help: my Original Xbox 1.6 (has an aladdin modchip and 500GB SATA HD) used to work very well. Suddenly one day it started to show error 13. Now I realized that it only works when I connect the HD on the middle connector of the IDE cable and the DVD drive on the end connector (this way it works correctly). If I connect the normal way (DVD in the middle connector and HD in the end connector) it shows error 13. I am using the stock IDE cable and I tested other 40 wire IDE cable and the result is the same. Does anybody know why this is happening? Is this happening because I am not using a 80 wire IDE cable? But it used to work with this stock cable. Can somebody help me to understand this problem?

$550CAD plus shipping Payment through PayPal. Selling a unique system to a new owner, I put together a great console with unique installed custom parts with a stealth switch to choose between empowering a lighted display or a dark environment while gaming. This console is carrying an Xecuter 3 signature mixed with XCM's fitted 3x hard drive bay module which allows you to switch between 3 different hard drives which contains three different dashboards. On the primary dashboard running UnleashX is themed with my signature advanced new age dynamic themes that I personally created and only available to valued supporters. In the inside of the console has dual custom LED heat sinks on the GPU and CPU branded by Vantec's rare out-of-production IceBerq 4 Pros. HardWare: v1.2 Xbox Dashboard TSOP X2 Bios Samsung DVD Drive (Rare)Xecuter 3 Jewel (Mad Modders Edition) - only one I have... (Rare)x2 Vantec IceBerq 4 Pro (CPU & GPU) - re-pasted with Arctic MX4 (Rare)Xecuter 3 (Christmas Edition) Chip - Includes bank selector on front (Rare) Xecuter solderless Xapt3r V1.0-1.5 Custom LED Rocker Switch (Powers LEDs On/Off) (Rare)XCM Xtender - Extends the Xbox hard drive capacity to 3 drives total. Custom Blue LED PCB face plate under glow bars - hooked up to rocker switch Custom Blue/Red front eject/power LED Custom Blue LED jewel PCB - hooked up to rocker switch Custom Blue LED controller ports x3 Stock 8GB Seagate Hard Drives. Software: Drive 1: UnleashX Dashboard Emulators Homebrew Applications Drive 2: User Interface Dashboard Emulators Homebrew Applications Drive 3: XDK Lancher Dashboard Console Applications Pros: Has rare hardware Custom colored boot animation Config Live 3294 with recovery (flashed to work with v1.6 xbox as well) Ability to boot 3 different drives on the same Xbox Turn LEDs on and off with a switch Cons: Some scratches or nicks on the console Xapt3r has a wire soldered to the D0 (pin broke off) - works better than before. XCM IDE cable cannot be removed from Hard Drives(will result in damage to the IDE cable) IceBerq 4 Pros are fans noisy (due to age) FYI: If console fails to boot on arrival means the pin from the Xapt3r has fallen out, the bank select button was switched in transfer or chip has come loose (you can still access the inside). Keep in mind when taking the console apart or modifying it by any means do not remove IDE cables from the hard drives, they're basically plugged in permanently. I like to keep customers up to date to know what they are buying if you have any questions please ask. Selling as is.

Hey everyone, I'm new here. I have two OG Xboxes. The first I bought pre-softmodded and which cannot be turned off by the power button, I gather because a trace was eroded; I did take out the clock cap and cleaned it up, however. And the second I softmodded myself as a project because a guy was giving it away for $5. This one doesn't have power/tray eject button problems, however, it did start to make a buzz (the HDD?) or loud fan noise before this happened, but I'm not sure if that's normal for this model. Yesterday it died on me as I was playing a game, for the first time. I took it off power and gave it a rest and then tried again, and it died after a few seconds. Now it doesn't turn on at all. I did some research and given that this one never seemed to have leaked capacitor fluid, and given the caps all over are fine, no swelling, I think it must be the power supply. I thought I would check with you guys first, as I am not very computer savvy and if all I have to do is solder these, I'm not sure I could do it myself tbh, or if it would be cheaper to just hire someone who already has the tools and know how. But I need to know if these are indeed the culprit.

As it says in the title.

FOR SALE! $35 +shipping from USA. Most in very good condition, except where noted. All NTSC List of games with original jewel case and manual booklet included, except where noted: Arena Football Call of Duty Finest Hour The Chronicles of Riddick Escape from Butcher Bay Crimson Skies *Water damage to jewel cover and insert* Conflict; Desert Storm Conflict; Desert Storm (Platinum Hits) Deus Ex Invisible War Dead of Alive 3 Enter the Matrix (Platinum Hits) Goldeneye Rogue Agent Halo Hitman 2 Madden 2008 Mercenaries *Jewel plastic slightly warped* Medal of Honor Frontline Midnight Club 3 Dub Edition *Jewel plastic is very warped* Midtown Madness 3 NBA Live 2002 NCAA Football 2005 / Top Spin NCAA Football 2008 NFL Fever 2002 Project Gotham Racing *Missing booklet* Project Gotham Racing Project Gotham Racing 2 Return to Castle Wolfenstein Tides of War Splashdown *Missing booklet* Spider-Man Unreal Championship Discs only, come in Xbox disc holder: 007 Agent Under Fire Amped Arctic Thunder Circus Maximums Chariot Wars Dave Mirra Freestyle BMX Enter the Matrix ESPN Basketball Ghost Recon Hulk Lord of the Kings Return of the King Myst III Exile Oddworld Munch’s Oddysee Project Gotham Racing Project Gotham Racing Rallisport Challenge (Platinum Hits) Splinter Cell SWAT Global Strike Team Tony Hawk Pro Skater 3 Wreckless The Yakuza Missions Other: Halo 2 case and booklet with no disc Top Spin case, booklet, and disc, but disc is scratched and having issues

Hi. I have the Xecuter3 mod with firmware version 3294 and a rev1.0 Xbox. I'm trying to install a big HDD (4TB) and have maged to get it recognised by using the Startech IDE to SATA converter. I've got it partitioned and setup successfully (using OGXbox installer tools), but, upon reboot, the HDD light on the front of the xbox (x3 firmware button mod) sticks on and the system doesn't boot to dash. I've tried different HDD's and both 40 / 80 pin cables and no difference. If I just install the 200GB IDE HDD I have, it works fine and boots fast. Any ideas as to what I am doing wrong? I have the switch on the back set to Cable Select and am currently using the 80 pin IDE cable. I've tried two of those with the same result. Cheers, BigDaddyCainer

My LE Green Xbox which is very little used and has been kept in practically retail state (never opened) completely out of the blue decided to start itself the moment I turn on the main's power. Its been connected to the same power block as my most used Xboxes for years so when either are on it will have been getting some power to the clock cap but TBH I can't remember when it was last actually used; it has to be at least a month ago. Then this. It won't turn off using the Xbox power button but will turn off using the UnleashX menu option > Shutdown but then immediately powers up again. Its working perfectly otherwise. Clearly something has happened, probably partly due to the hot weather but what? My theory is that I made a big mistake keeping it plugged in so that when the other Xboxes were being used its clock cap was indeed being charged. Despite it not being used regularly that has led to its premature ageing and leaking, doing some sort of damage. I suspect I'll only know if that is correct by cracking open the case which I specifically did not and still do not want to do. So if the cause could be something else which doesn't required me to take its virginity advice would be appreciated.

I have 2 original XBOXes, one is v1.6 and I'll eventually add a modchip, and the other is a v1.2/v1.3. I finally got around to fix the corroded traces problem on the v1.2/v.13 by soldering 4 wires from a 80pin IDE cable, it looks much cleaner than using 4 stranded wires I added a used 1TB sATA HDD + IDE to sATA adapter + 80pin IDE cable and used Hexen 2018 or TruHexen 2021 (not sure which) which installed fine. BUT... I know the laser will eventually die and I want to have an alternative method of setting up an HDD, so I picked up a 2nd 1TB HDD and tried XBOX HD Maker 2.3 USB beta3, with the batch file modified to make it work with any connected HDD, not only USB. The steps I did were: - ran xboxhd.bat, option 2 (Launch xboxhdm), then within QEMU, option 1 (Build a new Xbox HD from scratch) - did NOT format partitions because it outputs "Error: out of memory" when formatting F: and then scrambles the entire output and menu, instead I went with option 3 (Format extended partitions on Xbox drive) + 4 (F and G splits space evenly), then 2 (Rebuild C-partition on existing Xbox-drive). When booting the XBOX with this HDD I get a blinking orange light and nothing on screen after the initial boot logo. If I use Hexen to install a Dashboard it works fine, so I know the HDD is correctly partitioned and formatted. The batch installs some files on the C drive, maybe these files are not the correct ones for a TSOPed XBOX?

As it says in the title my Xbox is flashing orange for quite a while now like about 10 mins or so. Is this normal?

hello guys i have an xbox 1.6 with aladdin chip i want to contact my xbox with my pc i'm using Ethernet cable from the xbox to the Ethernet hole in my pc and the xbox didn't get the ip and also my pc didn't detect my xbox so i can get the contact and contact the xbox with filezila my pc is win 10

Does xbox have some sort of pdf reader available or converter to view pdf files? Some way to convert them to be viewed on xbox?

My OG Xbox started to Frag after a recap using the Console 5 kits. The PSU has been successfully recapped, mod chip and the extra ram chips work as i did that before the recap, clock cap area is fine, i removed that cap quite a while ago and cleaned the area with isopropyl alcohol. Every cap is in the right place and in the right orientation. But i did install C3B1 near the AV port, the 100uf cap the wrong away around the first time. I fixed that mistake, powered it on again but i get a Frag. What could be the problem? I reflowed the solder many times, and can’t find shorts either. Images: https://imgur.com/gallery/WIgbUQI

I was given two broken original Xbox consoles to try and fix. After fixing the issues with one of them, I tried to test it. As I didn't have a controller for it I bought an adapter like the one in the picture (Adapter) to try and use either a USB arcade stick or one of my wired controllers for PC, Xbox 360, or Xbox One. I eventually bought a controller for it as I could not get anything to work with this adapter. So I am wondering, does this adapter serve any purpose? Has anybody gotten an arcade stick kit like the one in the second picture to work on the original Xbox?

XBOX ORIGINAL EXECUTER 2.6CE HDMI 3TB HDD Fresh build!!! This item sold on Ebay on September 5th, 2021, but buyer just messaged me saying he doesn't have the money. Officially by Ebay, I need to wait until September 9th and I can sell wherever. I am in Utah, hoping to ship in USA if possible. $300 + $25 shipping. I'm hoping to sell this system first and see how much of a loss I will take and then likely sell my other 3CE system also... https://youtu.be/WW1PfM_ZXrY See photos here: https://classifieds.ksl.com/listing/65232933 Currently loaded with 311 of the best XBOX games, but you should be able to fit EVERY XBOX game ever made for XBOX on this 3TB HDD if you use the HDD READY versions (I can show you how). Everything works correctly, ready to boot and play! My cost of parts (everything except xbox and xecuter is brand new in August 2021): $100 Stock XBOX (revision 1.6) with 2 controllers $100 XECUTER 2.6 CE Mod Chip $69 Clear Crystal Ghost Case and Blue LED Kit $86 3TB Hard Drive (Seagate BarraCuda ST3000DM007) $22 SATA to IDE adapter (StarTech IDE2SAT2) $10 Upgraded Ribbon Cable 80-way 24” $15 New Motherboard Capacitors from Mouser $4 Artic Silver Thermal Paste $7 XBOX Compatible USB Drive $5 USB to Controller Port Interface $9 Custom Jewel $33 HDMI Cable Total Parts is $460, Labor additional (please see below) I am an expert solderer. I’ve done 10,000+ repairing vintage recording consoles, so the soldering on this is expert quality. Labor was installing the Xecuter modchip (soldering), removing the clock capacitor and replaced with a capacitor (needed for the revision 1.6) (soldering), replaced 22 capacitors on Motherboard (soldering),removed all the old thermal paste on 2 heat sinks, used fresh Artic Silver thermal paste, clean inside, clean fan, install Ghostcase, install 3TB hard drive, install StarTech adapter, install upgraded 80-way cable, clean inside DVD drive and clean optical, format hard drive, install XBMC4Gamers and the best dashes, load 166 games, test. TruHeXEn 2021 DVD-r included. This sale also includes the black cover and old parts including a baggie of the old capacitors. Current DVD Drive is a Thomson TGM600 wrorking great. I installed the Ghostcase top so you can see the spinning DVD , but old cover is included. Sale includes power cable, HDMI cable, and composite cable. And 2 controllers included. All new parts were just bought in August 2021, so this is a fresh build with low hours! I can include documentation and receipts if desired. The Blue LED Kit is just tacked in place with hot glue in top center. It can easily be peeled off and moved if desired. https://youtu.be/WW1PfM_ZXrY I currently have 2 different systems for sale, see separate ads 3CE and 2.6CE...

I have a 1.0 with 128mb installed that is TSOP'd that without any of my own intervention started to frag (green light off, green light off, red green flashing). The only even prior was transferring games overnight via FTP. I'm not sure if something overheated or what but the xbox had frozen during the transfer and upon rebooting is when the frag started. I'd love some advice on how best to troubleshoot the issue. I installed a xblast lite to see if it was a TSOP issue and the outcome is still the same. Any ideas on what I should try next? I'm not noticing any caps that look out of sorts.

XBOX ORIGINAL EXECUTER 3CE HDMI 3TB HDD Fresh build!!! I am located in Utah, hoping to only ship in USA if possible. $500 or best offer. I built 2 systems at same time hoping to sell the 2.6ce one and keep the 3ce, but not gettting the price I hoped so likely will have to sell both. Too many bills this week. https://youtu.be/bGeajOUkg3o See photos here: https://classifieds.ksl.com/listing/65233009 Currently loaded with 311 XBOX games, but you should be able to fit EVERY XBOX game ever made for XBOX on this 3TB HDD if you use the HDD READY versions (I can show you how). Everything works correctly, ready to boot and play! My cost of parts in (everything except xbox and xecuter is brand new in August 2021): $100 Stock XBOX (revision 1.4) with 4 controllers $150 XECUTER 3 CE Mod Chip (rare and desired by many) $69 Clear Crystal Ghost Case and Blue LED Kit $86 3TB Hard Drive (Seagate BarraCuda ST3000DM007) $22 SATA to IDE adapter (StarTech IDE2SAT2) $10 Upgraded Ribbon Cable 80-way 24” $15 New Motherboard Capacitors from Mouser $4 Artic Silver Thermal Paste $7 XBOX Compatible USB Drive $5 USB to Controller Port Interface $9 Custom Jewel $33 HDMI Cable Total Parts is $510, labor additional (please see below) I am an expert solderer. I’ve done 10,000+ repairing vintage recording consoles, so the soldering on this is expert quality. Labor was installing the Xecuter modchip (soldering), removing the clock capacitor (soldering), replaced 26 capacitors on Motherboard (soldering),removed all the old thermal paste on 2 heat sinks, used fresh Artic Silver thermal paste, clean inside, clean fan, install Ghostcase, install 3TB hard drive, install StarTech adapter, install upgraded 80-way cable, clean inside DVD drive and clean optical, format hard drive, install XBMC4Gamers and the best dashes, load 166 games, test. TruHeXEn 2021 DVD-r included. This sale also includes the black cover and faceplate, old hard drive and other old parts including a baggie of the old capacitors. Current DVD drive is a Samsung SDG-605 working great and ejecting great. I replaced the rubber belt with a brand new one. I will include the old belt and another new one for backup. The Ghostcase kit has parts to make the top of the DVD drive see thru, but didn’t mount right on this drive. I will include in this sale in case you ever get a Thomson drive to use on that. Sale includes power cable, HDMI cable, component cable, and composite cable. Also includes 4 controllers. Sale includes a spare power supply (tested working). All new parts were just bought in August 2021, so this is a fresh build with low hours! I can include documentation and receipts if desired. The Blue LED Kit is just tacked in place with hot glue in top center. It can easily be peeled off and moved if desired. https://youtu.be/bGeajOUkg3o I currently have 2 different systems for sale, see separate ads 3CE and 2.6CE...

Hello all, It's been a long dream of mine to build an XBOX run emulator cabinet. I've got the emulation all loaded on the box and ready to go, I just need the guidance on the rest. I've searched the forums and youtube and found degenatrons stuff but was wondering if there had been any advancements in the last 9 years as I am not great with soldering. My biggest concern is the xbox controller to arcade controller piece. I've heard the USB conversions that are out there don't work well. does anybody know if that's true? Anybody know of any other good resources for a DIY build? Thanks!

As it says in the title, I'm new to the Xbox modding scene. I'm wondering if I could just take out the hard drive and replace it with a brand new one (plain and simple). Or do I need to do some other stuff before putting a new hard drive. My Xbox is also unmodded (unmodded as in STOCK, no softmod or hardmods done to it.) And if some soldering needs to be done, then does anybody know what (affordable) soldering equipment do I need? Considering I have ZERO skills in soldering.

hello my friends i have an xbox 1.0 and i want to install modchip for what is best one for it and also mine works with 100.125 ac and i want to change it to 200.245 ac because iam living in kuwait how i can change that and can i change hetsink fan and use thermal grizzly thermal paste

Searched a good bit on the general symptoms of power button failure for Xbox original but most lead back to trace corrosion issues. The case here is a very small person got access to my original xbox and spent an unknown amount of time mashing the power button. The next time I went to turn her on, the power button flashed for a brief second and hard drive spun as well but then died. A few more attempts and now nothing happens. The switch still clicks audibly for what thats worth but no sounds that power is getting to anything and no light. I've opened it up to start looking at possible source of damage but have not come up with anything. Looking for any suggestions or guidance on where and what to probe. Thanks.

Hi all, I'm new to the modded OG Xbox scene and this forum. I'm glad that a community like this exists! Thank you all in advance for any assistance you can provide with the following questions/issues. I just purchased from another individual a hard-modded OG Xbox v.1.6 using the Aladdin chip. He also installed a 1 TB drive, which seems to be working well. It's running XBMC. Onto the issuses: 1.) Whenever I hit LT + RT + Start + Back in order to return to XBMC, the Xbox shows the boot screen with en "EVO" symbol in the top-left portion of the screen. It hangs there for about 30 seconds; then, a 07 "Service Required" green-text screen appears. No matter in which game I try to return to the XBMC this error message appears after the loading screen. When I notified the seller of this issue, he said that he thinks it's something to do with the BIOS, but he isn't certain. Any advice of how to fix this problem? 2.) I knew when purchasing this Xbox that the DVD drive doesn't work. I'm not planning to play any physical discs, so this really isn't an issue except in the case of the HDD failing one day. Is it a good idea to make an image of my HDD on my PC? Could I use FTP to create the image using backup software, or should I actually remove the drive and connect it to the PC in order to do this? Or, is there another option I'm not considering to recover the Xbox if the HDD fails? 3.) I've tested launching several games from the Xbox's HDD, and they all work great with one exception: Jet Set Radio Future. Whenever I launch the game, it immediately starts presenting several distorted graphics on the screen. I can make out logos behind the distortion, so the game is technically running, but everything is messed up. I haven't tried re-loading the ROM, and I will try that tomorrow; but, I doubt that it's the ROM which is the problem here. Barring a corruption issue with the ROM, any idea what could be causing this? is JSRF known to cause issues with modded Xboxes or something? That should do it. Thank you all again for your time and assistance. All the best.

Good afternoon team, I recently found my OG XBOX which I can't remember the last time I actually powered it on (possibly up to 10 years). I originally bought it to play emulators on back in the day and after watching some youtube clips on how the emulators have kept being updated, thought I would try to get it working again for the lols. I didn't have any cables anymore so orders some cheap 3rd party ones and a controller off of eBay. I held my breath and pressed the power button for the first time in forever... and to my surprise it tried to boot up, but then gave me the reboot x 3 and started to display the FRAG. From what I can tell the chip is an Xecutor Pro 2.x I tried various switch combinations but to no avail. I have also disconnected and reseated all the cables I could see, but to no avail. I have no way of determining if the HDD has failed (it is IDE and I no longer have any IDE tools/plugs), but if I remove the drive and try to power the xbox on without it, it still follows the same process (reboot x3, then FRAG), so I do not think that is the problem. I can only assume there is something wrong with the bios or the board itself. My question is: is this salvagable? Am I able to get it working again? I got a friend to mod the xbox back in the day so my technical skills with it are lacking. From the googling I did, apparently a XeniumICE mod chip might be able to bring it back to life, but I am not sure if that is compatible with the mod chip I already have (could they be swapped out?) and I am a noob at best at soldering (and I recall the Xecuter being difficult to solder). I have attached some photos of the machine and can give more information if needed. The searching on here seems to mention that the bios might need to be reflashed etc but this was one of the chips that needed a printer cable to connect ot it and reflash, so that might be an obsolete option now. Thanks in advance.