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Showing results for tags 'frag'.
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Hi all, I have been trying to install a Jafar xblast socket edition in my 1.4 xbox with no luck. The xbox boots fine when d0 is disconnected so fairly sure my issue is localised to the LPC. I have gone over my soldering to confirm continuity and voltages I've noted: -Pin 2 I have 1.6k ohms to test point the in the attached diagram but 0.2 ohms to the screw hole ground point. does anyone know where the pin 2 trace runs on the top of the motherboard? -Pin 12 has 12.5 ohms to the test point. I have also checked voltages on the LPC all my pins read correctly except pin 5 reading 3.3v on its first boot then 2.2v and finally 0.15v. Any advice on where to look next would be greatly appreciated.
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Hi everyone, I have a 1.4 board that I bought loose. I bought a lot with several xboxes and they all have FRAG. Now I just want to try to fix this 1.4 so I bought a power supply that I received yesterday, the console turns on but has FRAG. I have a reader and a hard drive from another xbox that I can use to test. I have 2 aladdin chips but I don't know if they work. The power supply is tested and works. I have many rp2040 and I tried to program one but it doesn't work or I don't know how to make it work. The 1.4 board doesn't have bad tracks or swollen capacitors. I'm quite lost, I've never had an xbox with FRAG (50% green 50% red) without video and I don't know where to start. In the same lot there was a 1.1 xbox with the same symptoms, but in the end I sold it very cheap.
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I need help from a technical repair expert and a mod chip expert for this. I have never encountered this error. Note: This is my first mod chip build Finished an open xenium build, used Xflasher to flash the svf file to the cpld. Started off with a green light, seems that green is the only light that works. Wrote a raw file using xenium tools. Didn't get any errors. Turned off the xbox and can't get the chip to boot into xenium OS. I noticed that during the Hotswap, the MCPX chip was getting hot, im not sure if that's normal. The Xbox faulted out to this GPU error. The Xbox is now Fragging with a known working modchip. I am now wondering if something was fried. The JTAG header cable did brush against the the side of the metal case, I don't know if that would be enough to short something. What could be a cause of not booting into Xenium OS after successful SVF flash and chip write? Is the GPU error connected to the modchip build? Could it fry the GPU? Where is the first place to start checking with my meter?
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Hi all, I am a member of the forum for many years, almost never post but I learned a great deal of things in here. Now to my issue. I have an v1.2 green transparent Xbox that was running fine after I removed the clock capacitor and replaced 3 capacitors on the right front, under the HDD. At some point I installed an Aladdin xt2 (AliExpress version) with CERBIOS v2.0.2R, a WD red 3Tb HDD, and a generic IDE to SATA adapter - Some pictures from 2 years ago can be found here. I only use this Xbox once in a while as it is not my main gaming Xbox console, so it mostly lives in a display without video and power cables. Last week I tried to power it up and I got a FRAG (3 tries to power on and then green-red light). Opening it I could see 3 capacitors that had leaked on top (2 seen below), so I replaced them - the ones marked with red circles --> After that I have the following cases and symptoms: 1. If I remove D0 from ground, it will boot up to an error (I think error number 6 if i remember correctly) which is ok as the HDD in there is no the original one - This is fine 2. With DO grounded and ANY Aladdin XT2 chip I tried I get again a FRAG (3 failed tries and green-red light) and black screen. I have 3 working Aladdins with 3 different custom BIOSes for testing (one with Cerbios 2.0.2R the one that was originally there, one with ind-bios 5003 and one Evox M8plus). All Aladdins have LEDs, and they seem to power up These are my chips: 3. With DO grounded, no HDD, no DVD and the modXO rp2040 zero that I recently created myself (running Cerbios V2.4.2 Beta), it immediately goes to this custom error and flashed red-green (like in 2 seconds), which I don't know if is normal 4. With DO grounded, HDD connected , DVD connected and the modXO rp2040 zero it boots right up, as nothing has happened I checked my soldering, the pin header for the chip seems solid, I removed the DO cable and soldered it again - nothing I tried starting the Xbox with ModXO, went into a Hexen DVD that I have and loaded GenTools. Then I removed the ModXo chip and hot-swapped CERBIOS Aladdin, trying to flash it with the latest CERBIOS but it isn't even detected there I have never seen this before and I had modded and fixed a lot of Xbox in the last 3-4 years. This was the first FRAG I encountered and somehow "fixed" but I want to continue using the Aladdin XT chip for this Xbox. What can be the difference that allows ModXO to start up? Why aren't the Aladdins get detected at all? Is it correct that the ModXO (CERBIOS 2.4.2) throws this error? I thought it would at least show the CERBIOS logo and then go to an error but maybe I am wrong Any help is appreciated!! Thanks
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Hi, have a Xbox Classic 1.4 chip FOCUS fitted with Aladdin XT Plus2 Cerbios 2.4.2 FRAG when power on Falshing Green Orange NO video output on screen. I replaced 3 capacitors of 3300uF 6.3v the ones near the power connector were swollen, and put new thermal paste, and washing mainboard. How to fix? -
I have a v1.0 board that is TSOP flashed with Cerbios 2.4.1. My UDMA is set to 5 in the cerbios.ini file and I am using a Startech, an 80 wire, and a Seagate Baracuda HDD 2TB from this year. I run this in a cool below room temp room. I have 60mm noctua fan mod running on 100 percent. The temps are around 55C. I have sent this console in to a professional and reputable repair service. I had a full recap done and a PSU swap with a recap also done on the PSU and various testing. I’ve sent this console in two times. But it always seems that when I get this thing back it will run awesome for about 2 days with a couple of hours played. And then eventually I will be playing a game and then I will hit the dashboard shortcut and it will fail to load the dash. And and that point I know its cooked. And lo an behold when that happens it frags when I power it off and on from that point. And if I leave it off for a bit and try again, boom no frag and it boots up and plays well until the next time it “overloads” enough to frag again. Every time I send it in they cannot replicate this frag I am having probably because it takes quite a few hours of play time to get it to frag. They ran microsoft’s internal memory test and there are no issues with the memory modules. The only thing that they mentioned was the HDD was getting pretty hot possibly due to my fans being set at the default speed which isn’t enough with a 60mm fan. Since then have set my fans to the max. The disc drive is good. The caps are good. The PSU is good. The memory is good. The temps are good (at least the the numbers shown in XMBC4gamers dash). What does this leave me with? There is something having to do with using it for an extended period. EDIT: oh and forgot to mention I also have force 480p enabled in the cerbios.ini and 480p mode enabled on the main MSDash(my main dash is UIX lite) and I use an electron shepard xbox2hdmi adpater hooked up to an LG CX in case it matters
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Hey all, tl;dr Started to recap my 1.4, testing as I went. Board eventually started to 3 boot frag, cannot get it to recover. Did I break it beyond repair? So, I replaced the power supply that I accidentally blew up and all was good. Since I noticed that the caps by the CPU were bulging, I figured I might as well replace them before going any further so I ordered a full board cap kit from Console5. I've recapped other devices before, but I guess I must have been lucky because this gave me problems immediately. The multi-layer board and large ground planes made it extremely difficult to get caps out and clear the vias of left over solder. I don't have a hot air station or board pre-heater or anything like that which I'm sure would have made things much easier (one bedroom apartment with two people and a cat, space is at a premium). Since I was afraid I was doing damage to pads/internal board layers getting caps and solder out, I made sure to test the system after replacing every few caps. I decided not to do the whole board since I was having difficulty, and would stop after these last few. Well, after replacing those last few the system no longer boots. Here's what I'm getting: The first few times I tried booting, I got the 3 boots and FRAG. I reflowed some solder on questionable joints and got a solid green light, but no AV (seems to indicate inability to load a BIOS). Unplugged my modchip, but same issue. While not impossible, it seemed unlikely that both the onboard BIOS (this board was previously TSOPed) and the modchip BIOS would be corrupted so I felt I must have done too much board damage somewhere and maybe destroyed an internal trace or something. After going back and forth checking all the caps I replaced and even trying to solder from the top side to ensure a through-and-through connection (please, forgive me), I wound up at: 3 boot FRAG when modchip installed, but solid green no AV with modchip uninstalled. This led me to think that maybe there was an issue with the LPC though I hadn't touched that area since I originally installed the pin header 4 years ago. I reflowed those joints and moved the D0 wire from the Aladdin chip to a ground/screw hole on the board. Continuity between LPC pins and their respective traces check out fine on my multi meter. Now I get 3 boot frag with or without the modchip plugged in. Anyone have any advice or see anything in the pictures that I don't? Any help is appreciated. Pictures: https://imgur.com/a/WEKo0vb The caps circled in blue at the ones I replaced and was able to still boot after. The ones in red are the last ones I replaced, no booting since replacing them. All other caps are original.
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Hello, I'm new here. I'm from Italy so my english couldn't be perfect, forgive me A friend of mine gave me an Xbox ver. 1.6, he wants me to try to fix that after he careless removed the Aladdin modchip. In other words, he removed it without using a soldering iron; the modchip was directly soldered to LPC holes. He also removed the LPC rebuild. I've got the original HDD still working, so I'd like to bring it back without installing a new modchip. My friend himself would want it alive as a stock Xbox. Here's the link with some pics I've taken: https://imgur.com/a/Fk3W0pI Any suggestions are accepted. Thanks in advance. Max
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Hello everyone, I'd like some help repairing my Xbox. I got an Alladin chip but while soldering I ripped the ground pad, now my Xbox won't boot to a dashboard with or without the chip. The behavior is at follows: Boots up flickering 3 times and reboots 2 times, the third time it boots either to XBlast or flickers red and green if booting to a flashed BIOS or without the chip. I've checked the dashboards, and the C drive has a lot of them for most BIOS options and so is the E drive so there should be no issue. I don't have the best tools for precise jobs, and this is my first soldering work. I have flux and it's old, dark colored and leaves quite a bit of residue as seen on the 4th picture, unsure if that's an issue though. What can I do here? Do I cut the hanging trace and connect to ground elsewhere or solder both trace ends to the pad again, etc And would the copper wire, as seen in the last picture, be enough for connecting the D0 to ground? I don't have 30ga or any type of wire as shown in videos and guides. Thanks
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I grew up playing FPS on the PC, so it never felt natural playing them with analog controllers. I recently bought a used XIM4 and for me it makes a HUGE difference in gameplay, it actually feels like the games were designed from the ground up to be played with a Keyboard/mouse combination, minus the console button hints on the screen I also have an original XBOX and a PS2, so I'm trying to find used SmartJoy Frags for each of them. I know it won't be as good as the XIM, but I'm willing to try them anyway, as I'm intent on playing all HALO games, and I want to start with HALO 1 and 2, then eventually jump to the X360's Halo 3, ODST, Reach and 4. Every SmartJoy Frag I found for sale so far didn't include any of the original content: the Quick Start Guide manual, the Game Presets Table manual and the quick reference card. I did found an external forum topic from 2011 which included pictures of the complete packages for both XBOX and PS2, which I attached to this post Does anyone have any of these manuals, and is there any possibility of scanning them for Internet posterity and future reference?
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You probably know me by the now. The guy who can’t seem to repair his traces. Well, I tried again, now with a new wire. Did it work? You know where this is going. I turned it on, and the light just stayed green. There was no video as well. Then, the fans started going wild and I’ve never heard anything like it! Finally, the light FRAGGED. Flashing red and green. So, shit. I made it worse! I really thought about giving up, but I think I can save it. I just opened it up and took pictures of the trace repair. I’ll be real with ya, I did a shit job. The new wire I did was pretty bad, I shaved way too much of the wire (its the white one). And there are still the old wires there that use the wrong wire with. That black one is just CRIMINAL. I also didn’t really clean off the flux, and now I know it’s conductive, which I should have before. Finally, with that ripped pad, I'm not sure if that's where you wanted me to put the wire. Sorry if I'm stupid, I would just need visuals. They’re desoldered now, and I hope that that’ll fix the FRAG. I did check for bridges, but nothing. Even used a multimeter on a trace that looked weird, but it was fine. The images are below. Sorry if they look bad, my camera ain’t good. Anyway, do you think this could have caused the FRAG, and where did I go wrong? Thanks!
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Hello, I have a 1.4 Xbox I tried to upgrade with ram chips from a FRAGing 1.6. I put only one RAM chip on as a test and it didn't boot into XBlast OS. So I thought the RAM chip was bad, I removed it, checked for shorts and with the console back in stock configuration it still FRAGs on boot. What could be the issue?
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Hey, Im a new member. Nice to meet yall. Hopefully i will get to know lots about the og xbox and have a good time. (English not my language, but i will do my best) So i have a problem and perhaps i could get some assistance here. I was gifted an og xbox, it was to be taken apart piece by piece and i said no no no lets see if i can do something about it. Took it home, power it on and after some attempts sure enough i get image asking for time and date. Deleted all save files and bought a game, game works. When the console is on and working theres no problem whatsoever. So the console works, reads discs and saves to hdd. The console is not modified in any form it seems. I opened it up today for the first time and it has the original 10gb hdd, and the dashboard is stock. I removed the clock capacitor and it now asks for time and date. It had not leaked as far as i could tell. Looked around, did not see anything bizarre, just some dust. But i know nothing about this really so its my guess is it was ok, but im not sure. All connections seemed secure inside. Also AV cable and power chord are firmly in place when FRAG. Console is 1.1 version according to kernel. But it FRAG sometimes, everyday actually. So ill try to explain. If i leave the console alone for a few hours after last session, and come back to power it on, it FRAG. The longer i leave it alone, the harder it is to get it to boot and have video. I have to keep to powering it on and off and eventually it displays video. I get no video when it does FRAG, no error codes. The FRAG is, it tries to boot two or three times, then flashes red and green. Other strange thing is if i keep trying to eject the tray i will get video sooner i believe. So that helps. Also it does a noise, 2 or 3 times. The noise is exactly the noise from this video i found on reddit (in fact this is the same thing happening to my console, to a T, except mine eventually works)(hope the link is not against rules): Im hoping its just the hdd dying because i intend to softmod and install a 2tb i have laying around. That im able to do. But im a noob so i dont know how to read voltages, solder and all that stuff. But if there is anything simple i could do to try to fix this, im all ears. Ill have a look around the forum to try and see all the good info around. Thanks a lot in advance! Cheers
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Hello, I have an original Xbox (can't determine which version, looks like 1.4 or 1.5) modded with Aladdin Advance. It worked well until today - I decided to update the bios with EvoX D.6 EjectFix (checksum 74c6235497f474bf88b54b3fc52a20b2). Bin file with it was placed on my HDD so I presumed that it's ok to flash it. After flashing, my Xbox turned off and when I turned it on, it startet to FRAG (two green flashes, then green/red flash with no video). What have I done? How I can undone it?
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Hey all. I am needed some help here. Box will boot fine sometimes, and other times, I get no video or audio. Weird part is I get no FRAG. Lights on the box are normal for the boot sequence. All green, no flashing colors. I have a 1.2/1.3 that I TSOP'd and installed the additional 64mb of RAM. RAM all checks out in xblast and in XBMC and clock cap was pulled. Other caps look fine, but replacements are on order. 4tb WD Blue and Startech with 80wire IDE. Just don't know what would be giving me inconsistent boots at this time.
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Hey all! I have a 1.0 that spools up to boot for about 2 seconds and then shuts down. Does that twice and then I can get it to stay powered with a FRAG 50/50 but never has any detectable video output. Not hard modded. I pulled the five Caps by the CPU and they all checked within limits. Clock cap is removed and there is not trace rot. Power supply works normal with other 1.0 boards. Any ideas? Thanks in advance
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So I have a 1.6 Xbox that I softmodded with UnleashX few years ago and it's been great. Last week I was playing it just fine, got tired and turned it off for the night. Couple days later it wouldn't boot up at all, id hit the power button and it would attempt to boot for like half second then turn off. Opened it up to see 5 capacitors bulging on the bottom right of the motherboard under the CPU/GPU area. So I ordered replacement caps and installed them and now I'm getting a FRAG with no video output. I've been trying to diagnose for few days. I've swapped out the power supply with known working 1.6 PSU, I've tried swapping back to my original HDD from before the softmod all to no help. I've checked voltages at PSU connector, my issue seems to be the inductor (L2F1) isn't getting the 1.7vdc it should be getting from researching on this site. I've checked the transistor next to the L2F1 and getting 5vdc on one side and 1.7vdc on the other. I've checked the transistor (Q7C2) and getting 3.3vdc at the collector. Any help would be appreciated as I'd hate to make it a parts xbox thanks. Edit: I mightve connected a older revision PSU (1.1-1.4v) without noticing in a attempt to rule out power supply. But have since checked two different 1.6v PSU with no effect. -
I installed and Open Xenium mod chip and the MakeMHz XboxHD+ HDMI mod in my old 1.6 Halo SE Xbox, along with a cheap SSD. I initially had everything running, & was able to boot into the EvoX dashboard as well as play games. Once I put all the case screws in & set it up, it booted normally once. After that boot, any other attempt was met with 3 failed boots followed by flashing red and green. I disconnected all the wires, reconnected them, and tried again. Again, 1 normal boot followed by endless FRAG results. Like in Greyleaf's thread, my Open Xenium chip doesn't light up at all with the FRAG boot attempts. I am a soldering novice, having only completed a Boxy Pixel GBA SP Unhinged build and GBC build. I did get some recommendations from a fried for better flux partway through the mod. I accidentally lifted a pad on the HD+ ribbon cable, but I ran a small wire to the trace farther up the cable . My first attempt to solder the cable had some issues. I completely removed & resoldered it. When the system boots, I do have functional video output. If I remove my Open Xenium chip from the pin connector, it boots into an error 16 page (I guess no surprise with a modified dashboard & unlocked drive). I replaced the clock capacitor and reflowed the solder for the Open Xenium. None of this has solved the issue. I also made a Reddit thread when I started troubleshooting. I think I've written the important details here, but it's there if I missed anything important. Summary: 1.6 Xbox Halo SE Delta DPSN-96DP PSU Open Xenium mod chip MakeMHz XboxHD+ HDMI port SSD upgrade I'm a novice Successfully boots once after reassembly (so far at least) Second boot attempt leads to 3 boot attempts then FRAG No lights on Open Xenium chip during failed boot process Normal lights on XboxHD+ during failed boot Disconnecting Open Xenium mod chip gives error 16 boot screen Looking for any troubleshooting help. Thanks.
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I am attempting to install a modchip for the first time. I have an aladdin XT clone from Aliexpress. The xbox is 1.4. I have a wire from bottom-side D0 to the top-side D0 pad on the chip. BT on the chip is wired to ground using the quick solder connector. The HD is stock with the standard xbox dashboard. Xbox was verified functional pre-modding. The only other mod is the removal of the clock capacitor. The console performs 3x boot attempts before FRAGing and eventually powering off. I used the LPC diagnostics page to verify my soldering. All eleven pins have continuity to the points described in the "baldbouncer" diagram. The only weirdness I noticed is that baldbouncer pin 4 to test point 4 has a resistance of about 1K. The via immediately below test point 4 has a much lower resistance to pin 4. See blue arrow in attached diagram. Despite watching a lot of tutorials and reading the documentation, I can't rule out some rookie mistake. Any tips for troubleshooting this?
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As mentioned in the title. The xbox restarts 3 times and flashes green and red alternately the third time. The so-called ask. Which can mean anything. The console came from something like eBay and the seller wanted to throw it in the trash because he couldn't fix it. I bought it anyway because it's a crystal. I've been looking for a long time. No capacitors were broken and all voltages were correct. Then I noticed that the lpc was being fried quite badly. After removing the solder from the LPC, I measured it again and there was about 1.5 volts missing at pin 1...or it switched off again very quickly. The same thing happened before the mcpx on the 3.3 volt pad. Well, long story short. I remembered a post by kaos engeneer. On the LPC (pin4) where the 2 vias are, a reset signal is passed along. And it was precisely this track that was torn down by the previous owner. That's why the console couldn't start and switched off the above-mentioned voltages. I repaired this track and everything is back to normal. Maybe it will help someone. Attached is another picture
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Hello! I've found a lot of good info and clever people on this board, so I'm hoping someone can help me out. It started with my old v1.1 Xbox and I screwed up the flash on the Xecuter 2.3b Lite and had no way to recover, so I bought an OpenXenium. I installed the pin header and mod chip and it worked great, for about a minute or two. Then the Xbox crashed. When I powered it back on, it FRAG'd. Disconnecting the mod chip didn't boot back into the stock BIOS either. I found a guy selling a mint v1.1 Xbox nearby for cheap so I bought it. I yanked the clock cap, installed the mod chip, and it booted up and worked great...for about a minute. It crashed and FRAG'd on reboot. Disconnecting D0 and removing the chip wouldn't boot the stock BIOS. Sounds familiar... After leaving the Xbox to sit for a few days while I ordered a magnifying lamp and some nicer wire, I soldered on a new D0 connection and just put the chip in with nothing else (no video even) and switched it on. Green light! Great! Installed the DVD drive and SSD and then...FRAG. I'm pretty confused now. I followed this guide to check the contact points on the board and I traced their resistance, all are less than 0.1 ohms (except the grounding pins...I don't know why those are mapped to vias?). https://www.ogxbox.com/forums/uploads/monthly_2021_01/68206083_xboxLPC.thumb.png.331244095aee4bc57088b5b4ce2ec6c7.png With the system powered on, I checked the voltage and all looks good except the Pin 5 RST voltage is sometimes really low. That seems significant. I have another Xbox on the way but at this point I'm starting to think the mod chip is broken and murdering Xboxes. Since they won't boot even with the chip disconnected, that makes me think the chips borked the EEPROM or caused some electrical damage. I also find it weird that after letting the Xbox sit for a couple days and really not doing much, it worked once and then not again. I'm wondering if there's some kind of breaker being tripped and that resets? I know the Nintendo 64 has something like that if you had inserted the memory expansion pack backwards, you'd have to wait an hour or something. I've visually scanned the motherboard looking for bad traces, solder splash, anything looking out of the ordinary and it all looks fine. I'm at a loss at this point. What else can I check? What am I missing? Big thanks for any help anyone can provide
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So I done a ram upgrade which resulted in a freeze, red/orange then frag (wasn’t able to test 1 by 1), removing all 4 chips didn’t fix the issue. Attempting it again with another board, first chip was a success with xblast, second chip was installed by the cpu, xblast then froze when checking that chip and now that console is fragging, again removing that one chip doesn’t fix the issue. Are the boards dead or is there things I can try?
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I'm trying my hand at both soldering (never done it before) and hardmodding by installing an OpenXenium chip onto my 1.0 Xbox. As the title states, I'm getting nothing after my first attempt. My initial assumption was that I probably have a cold solder point on the LPC debug header, although the single wire could cause harm (I doubt that ones bad though.) I remembered, however, that due to it not being used, I left pin 15 filled, as I was struggling to get it opened. While I doubt it, could that be causing any issues? Here's a picture of the joints for easier assessment: Thanks in advance for any assistance.
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I've a Xbox v1.2 - 1.5. I know you can TSOP it, but I like the options a modchip brings. So, I soldered the LPC pinheader, a wire from D0 to ground (screwhole) and a wire on the Aladdin XT PLUS2 XT 4032 chip from the BT to the other pad. Now when turning on the Xbox it FRAGs. The led on the modchip is on. When I remove the modchip (I didn`t remove the LPC header or the D0 to ground wire, only the modchip from the header) the FRAGing exists. Before I soldered the modchip, the Xbox was working fine. Some photo's from my soldering job. I also tested from the top of the board the D0 point and my meter beeps on all the screwplates, so that looks fine. Also the LPC pinheader looks good. So I'm a bit frustrated because of this issue. https://imgur.com/a/3IRniGb Above the pinheader you'll see some flux residu, I've taken care of that after the photo's. Is there a way to double check the connections from the pins and the back of the board to somewhere on the board?
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I bougth broken og xbox 1.6 for repairs when i try boot xbox he blinks green lights three times and then flashing red/green .i open up and see that xbox was modded with super aladin modchip live when i delsoder wires from modchip xbox boot up with error code 05 so i redo soldering on xbox and i saw that there was not cut trace u7c1 so i cut and xbox begins again fraging here picture of soldering lpc and modchip what do next did i need buy new modchip swap or console is not fixable https://ibb.co/JsmkYR2 https://ibb.co/yFBtCPR https://ibb.co/pdxkJRN
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Board Life Status
Board startup date: April 23, 2017 12:45:48