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Hello everyone, I want to store my game collection in the most authentic way possible (matching Redump) but that takes a lot of storage. So, I did a little bit of research and now I have few questions (and few requests) that I hope someone could help me with. It seems to me that there are three main formats for storing a retail OG Xbox disc: (1) Redump ISO (2) XISO (3) Extracted files/Game Folder I did some testing with: Halo - Combat Evolved (USA) (Rev 2) {crc="013986d0"} JSRF - Jet Set Radio Future (USA) {crc="b2a882df"} Mortal Kombat - Deception (USA) {crc="007bcbcc"} A ----------------- In the Xemu documentation it is mentioned that you can create an emulator-compatible .iso file by using either of the commands: -with dd: dd.exe if={redump_game_name}.iso of={output_game_name}.iso skip=387 bs=1M -with extract-xiso: extract-xiso.exe -r {redump_game_name}.iso But these two methods produce different .iso files. The one created with dd.exe is much bigger. A1- Are these two different forms of XISO or is the .iso file created with dd.exe just a trimming hack and not a proper XISO? A2- Is what is trimmed with dd.exe the same for every retail disc (meaning we can just keep one copy to rebuild every disc with it)? A3- What is the effect of using the two commands together? A4- In this post JayFoxRox says that we can separate the video and game partitions and recombine them later. Also he says that the video partition is the same for most retail games. Is that true? What games have special video partition? How to separate the two partitions and recombine them to give the original Redump CRC? If the video partition is the same for all/most games, that would mean that we can keep one copy of that partition to recreate the Redump ISO from any XISO file (saving a lot of space). The exception being the random padding that we need to find a way to recreate. B ----------------- Extracting the files from a Redump ISO with with extract-xiso extract-xiso.exe -x {redump_game_name}.iso then generating a .iso with them extract-xiso.exe -c {Folder_with_all_the_files} gives a .iso file with a different CRC32 to the .iso file that is created from extract-xiso.exe -r {redump_game_name}.iso I tried to use IsoBuster 4.8 (free) on a Redump ISO. It worked for listing the LBA for the files and for extracting the game files. IsoBuster always showed 4 partitions for the Redump ISOs: SEP13011042 SEP13011042072 VIDEO XBOX and two partitions for the XISO created with extract-xiso: - {it's just a dash} XBOX The files didn't change (I extracted again and compared) but I noticed that the some LBA for the files is different. Maybe there is something else that is different as well? B1- Is there a program that can create/edit ISO files based on LBA information (maybe like PS3 ISO Rebuilder with IRD files)? B2- Does this mean that we need to create files like IRD files for the PS3 (Layout files?) to be able to recreate an XISO file from extracted files? B3- Anyone knows a program that can do that for XISO files? For Redump ISO files? (similar to Redump2IRD) Note: I tried IsoBuster 4.7 and didn't work for me. In their release notes for 4.8 they mention {better XISO support}. General Questions: 1- Do you think we should start a database for the random blocks seeds using the tools in HERE? (even though we can't do it for all discs right now) 2- Can anyone provide the attachments from this thread? 3- Can anyone provide a compiled version of this program?

Hello Everyone. I am kind of new/kind of old to the scene, as I have an rev 1.6 Xbox that I bought brand new in 2006, softmodded and installed a 160gb harddrive, which is(was?) limited to 137Gb useable space, copied all my bought games to it, threw in a couple emulators, and then just used it on and off and basically forgot anything involved in the process to the mists of time. Recently it wouldn't power on, so I replaced the common 5 3300uF caps that were leaking, and it was good to go. My brain noted that the 16 year old IDE hard drive will not run forever, and I should look at upgrading to a SATA configuration. Due to the time gap, very old versions of software, I have now read so much conflicting information at this point am not sure what to do in 2021. I no longer have the original drive. I don't appear to have an image of either drive (8gb or 160gb) in any of my backups either. My fuzzy memory says this is bad because of linked keys. I do not have a PATA usb adaptor, or computer with PATA. I have an Xbox to USB adaptor, but I don't think I have a compatible thumb drive. Based on my research I've ordered the "correct" Startech SATA/PATA adaptor. The existing drive already has an 80 pin cable. I do have ftp access without issue. I'm attaching a 2 screenshots of my drive/system info, my questions are: Is that key in the screenshot all I need? If not what is the best way to go about backing up the drive/board key "Just in case" things go bad. And is Chimp (https://www.reddit.com/r/originalxbox/wiki/chimp/) still the best way to clone it to a new drive in 2021? I undoubtedly will have more questions, but backing up is my first priority, and once I have a confirmed backup I will be much more comfortable playing with it, and hopefully updating the various software I have loaded. Any "critical hints" or gotchas would be appreciated as well. v

I lost my N64 freak 1.4ghz Xbox in a fire last year when our house burned down and am sad to see he no longer makes them. If anyone has one I'm willing to buy. I'm in the USA. Name your price. Thanks, Jake

Hi folks, A friend pointed me in your direction, and I hope you can shed some light of this issue. I picked up an immaculate Xbox today, boxed, sealed manual, still had the plastic over the eject and power buttons, not a mark on the case I played some OutRun2 and Dead or Alive 3, no issues. I then decided to “stress test” and run a game for half an hour, and chose Halo 2, letting it sit in its promo/demo loop. After around 35 mins, the game froze. I ejected the disc, returned to the dash, and reloaded the disc … nothing. The green light around eject just flashes, but there’s no action from the drive other than 3 whirs then nothing. Tonight I took the console apart, and it’s immaculate inside. No leaks, no dust, no bulging caps, not even a spec of dust on the fan … I doubt this console has seen much use, which is what makes this issue even harder to understand. When I had the lid off the drive, I tried to load a game, OutRun2 … but the behaviour is the same for any disc. The lens moves to the top of the track and back 3 times, and each time it returns to its “home” position next to the disc spindle, the spindle tries to turn and moves, if it’s lucky, a centimetre or two. It does this 3 times, then nothing. I don’t get any disc read errors, because the disc doesn’t seem to spin up. The drive, like the rest of the system, is very clean but it just stopped working so suddenly. Any and all advice will be greatly appreciated. I don’t want to return this to CEX for them to scrap it, especially given it’s condition, so I want to try and save it. If the drive is toast, as I suspect it may well be, what are my options in terms of modding without a working disc drive? Thanks all. Edit: I have uploaded a video of the drive in action, here:

So I got a soft modded console with Maxtor 40GB IDE drive, listed as working. Got it, plugged it in, browsed around for maybe 5 mins and then it just crashed. The board is now dead and the HDD is locked. Being locked I know my options are already limited. I basically just want to format it completely and rebuild it for use on another machine. Here’s where I run into the major issue. I first tried my OpenXenium Xbox to try and unlock the drive. No luck it won’t let format or any of the options available. I just get an error saying it couldn’t complete it yada yada yada. I was however able to sign into the drive with FTP and it’s completely empty. Hexen won’t boot since I can only get as far an error 9 with a locked drive. PC does not recognize the drive at all when plugged in via IDE to USB adapter. FYI, It does have a power source running. Where can I go from here? I hate to throw away a 40GB drive if it’s salvageable. If it’s dead, then so be it.

Xbox takes about ten minutes to load the dashboard if I do not attach the DVD drive. I have more xboxes than I do working DVD drives so my goal is to build a working xbox that doesn't require the DVD drive. My issue seems to match a previous post. I used TruHexen 2021 to write 256K EvoX NoDVD to TSOP. From the previous thread, I see that KaosEngineer recommended using EvTool to customize the BIOS before flashing. I grabbed EvolutionX M8plus Bios.rar from xbins. I am paranoid about bricking my xbox. Before I flash, I wanted to make sure I am flashing the correct BIOS. Within the archive, I see a M8plus.bin file which I believe is the correct one to use for 1.2. The MD5 is 0xdfc6288f6b67fd021e1970491c64c0a0. This MD5 doesn't match the Evox M8 MD5 listed at https://www.reddit.com/r/originalxbox/wiki/bios/md5 of aa4d0820b932009090f780f0ee1d1b1c. Do I have the correct Evox M8plus BIOS for my 1.2?

i've asked this question here before but was unable to locate what i needed. i would really like to play marvel ultimate alliance with the extra characters that came out later on the xbox360. does anyone know of a version of this game with the characters modded in that will play on my hard modded og xbox?

Hello guys, This is my first post on this great forum, lots of info and input is amazing! The reason of this probably repeated post is that I want to upgrade my HDD to a 1TB or 2TB HDD (what's the max capacity I can go with my motherboard?), I watched lots of tutorials and seems the way to go is using OGXBox (downloaded and burned version 1.5.3 to a DVD, also have TruHeXEn 2021 on another DVD disc if needed) my questions are mostly regarding how to proceed now, I got this console from a very good friend some 15 years ago, and it was modded as it alwas played back up DVD's, I opened the console to look if there was any physical chip or mod to the board but couldn't find any or I'm too dumb to detect it, seems like it is only soft modded? Current BIOS and Dash versions are attached in pics along with more pics of the motherboard so I don't know if you guys can see any mods performed to it. I already purchased the SATA to IDE adapter and performed the 80 way/40 pin IDE cable conversion and everything seems to be working after that I was able to play my backup DVDs and play from the original HDD as well, so basically which route do I follow now? because I don't want to perform something that might brick the console by interfering with the already installed mod, also is there any specific model of 3.5" SATA HDD I need to choose?, I know there's like a list of working/locked HDD so do I need to consider that when purchasing my new HDD? I was plannig to get a WD blue or Seagate Barracuda. Thank you very much for all your help guys!

So I've just completed my openxenium install along with spi2par2019 / LCD display and Segate 2TB HDD. There are 4 bio on the openxenium which are x2.5035.137 bin, IND-BIOS.5004.67.bin, evox.m8plus.v16.fc.137.bin and Retail Kernel. If I boot with the evox.m8plus.v16.fc.137.bin bios, the console hangs up on the xbox logo and the word microsoft when its trying to load the dash. If I reset the console by ejecting the disc and closing it, it reboots fine striaght into the dash. If I use either x2.5035.137.bin or IND-BIOS.5004.67.bin then console boots straight into the dash from the first time. I tried different HDD, different IDE2SATA adapter both chinese and StarTech ones with all giving the same problem. This leads to believe that the issue is with the evox bios. Any suggestions or idea, should I be using a different evox bios? HDD is formatted with extra G & F partitions, I resized the partions to a smaller size, restarted and then re-partitioned again to the correct size as suggested in a previous post.

Hi all! I'm having some trouble with installing an OpenXenium purchased from MakeMHZ into an Xbox 1.0. I'm relatively new to this, and have surely made some mistakes. When I start it up, it does this: https://imgur.com/a/HTHYrU2 Here's what I know: Stupidly, I soldered the D0 pad on the modchip to the 1.6 pad - that has been fixed. I don't think this is the issue, because I have a second chip that I did not make this mistake with, and it still does not work. I didn't scrape the solder mask off LPC ports, and really had trouble flowing the joints. The one I'm most concerned with is the bottom right joint of the first photo. Can I run a jump wire from that to one of the nearby test pads? I'm fairly confident the D0 pad on the modchip is correctly connected to D0 on the board - I tested the continuity from the chip to the both points on the board, and was good. I have photos available here: https://imgur.com/a/FX7R43B Thanks for any info in advance!!

Hello, i bought a used v1.0 xbox some months ago, which i've modded. but lately i've had problems with it. It manifested by some times i would turn it on and it does the 3 on/offs then christmas lights. Then all of a sudden it can work again for 5 times, next day i turn it on again, and it won't boot. Have to take out the motherboard and inspect my solderjoints, all ok, into the xbox and it might work again, if not repeat process etc. past 2 days i've used it, it's been working perfect then i noticed it just suddenly freezes and throws a high pitch sound on the speakers without me doing anything but just idling in xbmc menu somewhere. And now it won't start sucessfully at all. just christmas lights. And no occasional luck booting it up successfully either. I installed a aladdin modchip in it and have long been suspecting the solderwork there, since sometimes it boots and sometimes not. But now i'm thinking it might be the PSU that is the root of the problems. I looked at another thread and did the voltage testing on the 12v plug pin by starting the PSU and not connecting it to the motherboard. All the wires showed correct voltage except two. The blue wire (or grey as it is on the plug pin) is supposed to be 3.3v but shows 0.04v and the yellow wire which is supposed to be 12v but is showing 5.89v. I'm posting a picture of the psu and you can see 1 capacitor that is very bulged, i've marked it with red arrow. Should i swap out these caps with new ones? are they responsible for the incorrect voltage on specifically those 2 pins? Also the big caps on the motherboard is not bulged but i understand they can very well be off also, even it doesn't show to the naked eye. So basically are the problems coming from the PSU or the motherboard, Would it be enough to just swap out the 3 caps on the psu, you think? What about the big black 400V 180uF one? that can be a culprit too? Btw, when i started up the PSU with no load i can hear a sound coming from the big black 400v capacitator. it's buzzingsound with short 10milliseconds stops in between like as if electrolytic fluid is boiling and hissing in there. is that normal? With load it makes a lower clicking sound. it's prob just the hz from the powerline maybe.

Hi Everyone! I'm in the market for a 1.0 motherboard that has had the extra ram up to 128mb chips added, has had all the caps replaced, the clock cap removed, the TSOP write points restored, and CPU thermal paste replaced. Essentially a nicely restored 128mb 1.0 motherboard that won't give me any trouble for! Optionally it would be nice to have the LPC pin headers installed in the case recovery is needed. I know there is a lot of time in that request between the caps and the ram, so please name your price. I'm in the US.

As it says in the title.

FOR SALE! $35 +shipping from USA. Most in very good condition, except where noted. All NTSC List of games with original jewel case and manual booklet included, except where noted: Arena Football Call of Duty Finest Hour The Chronicles of Riddick Escape from Butcher Bay Crimson Skies *Water damage to jewel cover and insert* Conflict; Desert Storm Conflict; Desert Storm (Platinum Hits) Deus Ex Invisible War Dead of Alive 3 Enter the Matrix (Platinum Hits) Goldeneye Rogue Agent Halo Hitman 2 Madden 2008 Mercenaries *Jewel plastic slightly warped* Medal of Honor Frontline Midnight Club 3 Dub Edition *Jewel plastic is very warped* Midtown Madness 3 NBA Live 2002 NCAA Football 2005 / Top Spin NCAA Football 2008 NFL Fever 2002 Project Gotham Racing *Missing booklet* Project Gotham Racing Project Gotham Racing 2 Return to Castle Wolfenstein Tides of War Splashdown *Missing booklet* Spider-Man Unreal Championship Discs only, come in Xbox disc holder: 007 Agent Under Fire Amped Arctic Thunder Circus Maximums Chariot Wars Dave Mirra Freestyle BMX Enter the Matrix ESPN Basketball Ghost Recon Hulk Lord of the Kings Return of the King Myst III Exile Oddworld Munch’s Oddysee Project Gotham Racing Project Gotham Racing Rallisport Challenge (Platinum Hits) Splinter Cell SWAT Global Strike Team Tony Hawk Pro Skater 3 Wreckless The Yakuza Missions Other: Halo 2 case and booklet with no disc Top Spin case, booklet, and disc, but disc is scratched and having issues

I recently bought a few faulty Xboxes yesterday and I want to try sort out this 1.1 which FRAGs. When I press eject it will often not open the disc tray, sometimes it will open quarter or half way or not close when it does open. I've tried 3 disc drives and they all have the same issue indicating a motherboard or possibly daughterboard problem. I have removed the clock capacitor which was only starting to leak. I've cleaned up what little leakage there was. Any ideas?

I've got a 1.1 XBOX, made October 2002. I soft modded it using Rocky5 files and then did a TSOP flash with EVO X with F & G. All went well and I next tried to upgrade the HDD from the stock one to a Segate 2TB after upgrading the IDE cable to 80 wire one. I tried the first adapter from the top of the picture you see below but the XBOX didn't see the HDD, so then I tried the second adapter (middle one). The XBOX saw the HDD and HeXen 2018 loaded up from disc, it installed all the dash/app files, then usex XB Partioner to split F & G into equal sizes 926GB (approx if I recall from memory). At this point everything was going well and the XBOX would boot fine into dash, I even managed to transfer some games and then started installing XBMC and some emulators, during this the XBOX seemed to freeze and not respond. I rebooted the XBOX but it kept giving me error 7 and sometimes error 9. I tried everything possible including formatting the hard drive on the PC and reconnecting, tried other hard drives but all gave the same result. I then tried the first adapter from the top and the XBOX would boot but won't run anything from the DVD drive. Finally I bought the third IDE to SATA adapter, third one at the bottom of the picture and this arrived today This sadly has not changed the outcome and I continued now to get error 7 with all 3 different adapters With all this mentioned, the XBOX boots fine into dashboard with the original hard drive and current EVO X BIOS flash. I've also tried all jumper settings on both second and third adapter that has jumper pins. At this point I'm lost to what is the problem, could I just possibily ended up with 3 bad Chinese IDE to SATA adapters? I've ordered StarTech.com 40-Pin IDE PATA to SATA Adapter Converter and this will land in the next day or two for me to test. Any input on this would be appreciated.

I found this on reddit, but it did not looking it was ever resolved.Changed the 3 caps under the CPU and now sound but no picture! Any ideas? I am having the same issue where I had to replace 5 blown caps, but afterwards I am getting no video. I can hear the boot animation, but I get no video. I have reflowed many times. Not sure where exactly to start checking. Any help would be appreciated.

hello guys i have an xbox 1.6 with aladdin chip i want to contact my xbox with my pc i'm using Ethernet cable from the xbox to the Ethernet hole in my pc and the xbox didn't get the ip and also my pc didn't detect my xbox so i can get the contact and contact the xbox with filezila my pc is win 10

Hi guys, My problem is that i can connect to ftp via filezilla and i can also download games from my hard drive but if i want to upload games it always says connection to server lost... and then retries. What i have is a Alladin XT plus and evolution x. Maybe someone knows the problem.

Hi all im still very new to the og xbox. i bought my xbox from a modder that had everything setup for me yes i should have done it myself so i could learn lol on my main menu i have all my emulators listed but i have lost my shortcut to xbmc4gamers i can still load it by going to programs and selecting it but it was nice to have a shortcut for some reason today my whole dash reset to default i have no idea why and this is why i have lost my shortcuts and as i did not set this xbox up i have no clue how to get the xbmc4gamers shortcut back. thanks

I bought this at a Goodwill years ago and there's something unusual wrong with it. It doesn't have any scratches or paint chips. Whenever I insert it it says "You need to connect the DVD Playback Kit receiver to a controller port to watch movies. Remove the disc to continue." So I went to my local pawn shop to get the DVD Playback kit. I get a message that says. "This is an Xbox game disc. Please put it in your Xbox to start playing." I'm confused!! How do I fix this?!

Hello So I have a Chip called a jafar, Its an upgraded Aladdin XT with Xblast. 1 Bank of 512, 1 256 and the last 256 is reserved for the Xblast which always boots first. My Question is how do I get Dual Dashboards with this? I have UnleashedX as I've always liked it but want to give XBMC a try Ideally I'm looking to have say Unleashed X boot with the 512mb X2 5035.137 bios and XBMC Boot with the evox.m8plus bios or visa versa After extensive searching online I am none the wiser, Could someone point me in the right direction to get started?

Hi, I ordered a HDMI adapter from Ali and I have blackouts on my 1.6 and 1.2 boxes. The adapter is using 5V from AV port and I think it's not enough. My 1.2 has bad caps also next to cpu, I will replace them when they arrive but I would like to add external 5V from TV USB to the adapter. Anyone done that? Link to Aliexpress HDTV Adapter

I'm running into an issue where just the following 4 NTSC USA games won't load on original firmware from retail disc (get stuck at the Xbox logo + Microsoft text after putting in the disc), or from hard disk via ISO or extracted files (just go to a black screen where even IGR won't work): Chicken Little Shellshock: Nam '67 Without Warning The Suffering: Ties That Bind I'm positive that these are good discs (used for the tests I've run on original firmware) and ISOs that I've ripped / converted myself and validated against Redump hashes (for the ISO loading failures). Full details on the setup and things I've tested follow: I've got an NTSC 1.2 Xbox, upgraded to a 2TB drive, using the recommended ~937 GB F/G configuration with 64 KB clusters on those partitions, on a StarTech adapter. The drive has been locked, so I can still use stock firmware. Clock capacitor has been removed (and clock time set), and the 5 largest capacitors (3 for CPU / GPU and the two large ones on the lower left / right of the board) have been replaced. An original Xenium chip is installed on firmware 2.3.1, with banks flashed for both EvoX M8+ (modded with EvoTool to add LBA48 support), and iND 5003 (the recent modified version with re-enabled XBL and reboot fix). Using 480i composite video out. The Language is set correctly in the MS dashboard to English, which should work with these 4 games. I've got the proper files in place to allow ISO mounting, and all my games are installed via this process: Dump disc with a Kreon firmware SH-D163B drive to full ISO Validate the CRC matches the Redump CRC (so I'm sure I have a known good dump and the disc isn't the problem) Extract the files from the Redump format ISO with Xbox Image Browser 2.9 build 0350 Use Qwix to turn the extracted files back into an XISO compatible for hard drive loading Split the XISO, if over 4GB, at 4292870144 bytes into two pieces, and name them gamename.1.iso / gamename.2.iso Throw the ISO into F or G, and run the XBMC4Gamers ISO prep script to put them into a unique subfolder, as well as extract the thumbnail and game name and put them into the launcher XBE that actually mounts the disc files and plays them. This gives me 2 ways to launch my games: I can either launch the ISO from XBMC4Gamers, or I can boot into the Xenium menu with the eject button, choose to launch the stock TSOP, boot into the original dashboard, then put the original disc in and play without any mods whatsoever. I have hundreds of games working perfectly this way, but those 4 games won't boot on this Xbox, no matter what I do. If I try to launch them through the ISO loading method from XBMC4Gamers the screen just goes black, then stays black indefinitely. IGR no longer works, and I have to hard power down the Xbox. (The same thing is true if I extract the files to F:\games and try to run the default.xbe.) If I try to launch them by booting into the original firmware on TSOP, waiting for the original dashboard to load, then putting the original disc in the tray, the Xbox changes to the Xbox logo screen, with "Microsoft" below the Xbox logo (aka "I've recognized a legit game and I'm loading it"), and then just stays on that screen forever, without actually starting the game. The only thing that will break out of that is ejecting the disc, which takes me back to the dashboard, or powering off. I've tried clearing the cache drives before loading these. I've also tried deleting the TDATA and UDATA for those games (as well as backing up all of E and wiping it clean). This has me stumped, because: I know the discs are good (dumping with a Kreon matches 100% to the Redump ISO as validated by hashes, plus 3 of the 4 look factory new) I know the disc drive can read games fine, as it can load any other original disc I throw at This doesn't appear to be a copy protection thing, because it happens equally when running EvoX M8+ / iND 5003 and loading an ISO or with stock firmware and loading the original disc, and when loading the original disc, we don't even get past the point where the Xbox logo / Microsoft text beneath it leave the screen to hand control over to the game. I know the Xbox is reading the disc, because if I boot into modded, rename E:\TDATA and E:\UDATA to E:\TDATAold and E:\UDATAold, clear cache drives, then shutdown, boot into stock firmware, put the disc in, let the system hang at the Xbox / Microsoft logo, eject the disc to return to the MS dashboard, and then check the Memory tab, the only entry there (as expected) is the one entry for the game I tried to boot, with its correct picture. I can't find any reports on the restored xboxscene forums, here, or reddit claiming that those games had issues booting for anyone else (though they're niche titles, so maybe no one has tried and bothered to post they don't work?), or any sort of Wikipedia article or the like talking about the games with a section mentioning they have issues loading on certain versions of Xboxes, etc. So in lack of that, it makes me think they should work and there's something else I'm missing. Any thoughts as to why these and just these 4 games don't work, either through ISO loading, extraction to hard disk, or known good retail disk on retail firmware would be really appreciated - I'm stumped!

Hi there, Noob that just join this community for some solid advice/direction for my upgrade, I have a working 1.6A xbox with a Super Aladdin Live modchip running XBMC on a 80 Gb IDE HDD My aim is to upgrade the HDD to a 500 Gb Sata HDD (I know I could go bigger) and also upgrade to Rocky 5 instead.... I currently have: - The 80 wire/40 pin IDE cable (ATA 100/133) - IDE to Sata converter - 500Gb Sata HDD What are my options? Do I have to hot swap the HDD with the disk drive with a program running on the xbox ? Thanks in advance for any help or links for guides/programs to help me !!