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Hi all, I've been googling and searching and not finding an answer to this. I fired up my Xbox today (first time in a while) and got a notification that a new version was available. I went into the settings, updated the URL downloader and then did the XBMC4Gamers update. After a bit, I got a message that "autoexec.py" or something like that failed. Now I'm stuck at a screen that says XBMC Fatal Error: No suitable skin version found (see screenshot) I am able to FTP into the xbox just fine. I did find some mention of a guisettings.xml file but I can't seem to find where it might be and where I can get a replacement for it (if that's even the problem) My default dash is/was xbmc4gamers, BTW. I would appreciate any help!

I grabbed a Kernel file from this page and I flashed it with XBlastOS. Does the kernel have to match the original kernel? What is the kernel relative to the BIOS? Normally kernel and BIOS are two very different components of a computer. I shouldn't have been able to flash the TSOP with the kernel correct? How are those kernels meant to be used? I was looking for the default BIOS. Thanks

Hey guys, Wyverino here I am fairly new to the xbox modding scene. My gf just gifted me an old premodded 1.1 for christmas and I love it so far. I just want to tweak it a little more to make it my hopefully favorite console! Wish all of you guys a happy new year!

I am really glad I found this forum website. Last year when I started modding most of the content I found online was so outdated. Somehow I missed this website. Are unopened and unmodded XBOXs becoming more and more rare? Well, I suppose I know the obvious answer to that question - yes. My real question is to the professional collectors. What is your opinion on breaking of the stickers on and opening up suspected rare XBOXs? Do you do it when you get one to inspect for dust and corrosion or is it more important to a collector to keep the stickers intact? Aside from obviously rare limited edition XBOXs what version(s) 1.0-1.6b are the most rare? One would think 1.0 XBOXs are the most valued and desirable. Are 1.0 XBOXs desirable to collectors? Are certain versions 1.0-1.6b becoming more desirable or rare than others?

I put together a package with all the software needed. I also included the SVF file generated by ISE's impact. This is now the easiest method for programming OpenXenium's CPLD chip. After setup, it's just one click. Merry Christmas and enjoy! https://sites.google.com/view/xc9500xl-with-openocd-ft232r/home

New to the forum and to the topic in general. The console was given to me by a friend, it comes loaded with some version of Unleash X. I have been trying to connect via FTP to load more games (DVD reader is broken). Sadly i don't know the credentials and not finding any way inside the dashboard to go to the config.xml file to get them. I read about FATXplorer so I guess that if I don't find any alternative from inside. I can always just plug in and look for the file on my PC but I will like to avoid buying all the adapters just for a one time use. Couple of pics from the menus that I can access (In Spanish lol) https://ibb.co/XWMmkfn https://ibb.co/C8GHv9J https://ibb.co/kJ0y2tF

Hi there! I'm brand new to this board and looking to do my first mod chip install on a v1 that was given to me a few years ago. Back then I grabbed a DuoX2 but never got around to installing it. Well the time has come, and I've dug out the Xbox and found the mod chip... still sealed in the anti-static bag... but I'm wondering if I should stick with the Duo X2 GS. I'm wondering if it might be better to go with an Aladdin Advance XT Modchip PLUS2 or Open Xenium. Is there a benefit to either one over the Duo? Thanks!

Hi I bought a classic Xbox that has a power problem. The seller told me he had mistakenly connected the console to a 220V source. the type of PSU is Foxlink 1-row. Unfortunately, 4 pieces on the power board are apparently damaged, and I do not know the name and capacity of the two electronic pieces. Also, I could not recognize the value of a resistance due to the color change. I put some pictures of these pieces .If possible, please guide me to identify these pieces. Thanks

It's possible to unlock and relock the Seagate HDD over the COM port. I wrote up some instructions and a python script to automate the process. Files and instructions: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1X9YJdMUA1vZKSTEyvfA2OhaHScy0f6wzLk0nE7q9vLw/edit?usp=sharing

Looking for the best graphics games for Xbox, something I should not miss to play (but not just graphics, also balanced gameplay... nothing like Splinter Cell games for example, that has good graphics but awful gameplay)

Hello everyone, just got myself another Xbox a couple weeks ago, 1.6 with a dead DVD Drive, $15 for console, cords, 2 S-Controllers (no breakaways ) and 2 games (FIFA 07 and Halo 3, lol) I stumbled upon my copy of Mechassault I had stashed hopped online for a USB to XBOX adapter, and a Duke controller $20. Softmodded with Rocky5s installer! My DVD drive problem was solved by a friend who let me swap drives temporarily in exchange for modding his system. Rummaged through my old HDDs (no ide sadly, but!) I found a 2TB 3.5 drive lying about. Ordered a SATA to IDE adapter and an 80wire cable, now I have more games and emulators then I know what to do with anymore! lol Anyways, Thats the story of why I am here, to check out all the cool homebrew and troubleshoot anymore problems I stumble across in my journeys. Happy gaming guys, and long live the lil(Big?) black box! P.S. For anyone who might be familiar with my name, I was once a quite active member of the now dead isoZone. Hello especially to all of you that are still around the homebrew scene!

Hello all. It's been a long time since I visited the old Xbox. I've modded quite a few back in the day and recently acquired a couple a few days ago in a box along with about 5 PS2s. I kinda got a little excited being as I haven't touched either one of them for several years. I had read about soft modding and wanted to try it since it didn't require any hardware or tools as I had gotten rid of everything I had. Well once I fired up the boxes I found both of them had hdd and dvd issues. I opened them up and, ..ugh. Both of them were 1.6b. Anyway, I jumped online and ordered a couple of Aladdin XT chips. It's slowed me down but has given me the time to look the forums over. I'm getting the itch back! I don't think the wife is going to like this all over again. Anyway I just wanted to say hi to everyone.

what would you say is the best 2TB drive for OG Xbox? the one ive just put in my modded xbox sum time gets stuck on black screen other times takes a bit long to load dash

some game saves are tied to the individual xbox's hdd key. so wouldn't nulling the key mess up some game saves?

for some unknown reason, xbmcegamers can't see the halo 2 update. it works fine with unleashx but not xbmc4gamers. anyone know of a fix?

OK... Long story - have a older Xbox (pre 1.6, mf 2002) which years and years ago I installed an Xecutor 2 and unlocked the drive, installed new dash etc. Unfortunately after removing the clock cap, I played one game and the HDD developed a hard fault. Bought a new SATA drive for it (and adapter), found Hexen 2018 and used it to remake the OS. Booted fine, but couldn't see the larger drive (0bytes shown free). Ah! thought I, maybe I need to flash the XEcutor 2 with a new BIOS to let it see a larger drive. Out comes the Hexen disc again, and I used option 3 (flash), chose an 1.1-1.5 BIOS 256k and pressed to update. After completing, it shut down... and won't startup! I guess I wrote an incompatible BIOS (or it wrote it to the machine). Any ideas how I can breathe life back into the machine? Tried booting - after it tries to boot 3 times I get red/green flashing. Tried unplugging the XEcutor from the board, I get a red ring of death (red flashing). Tried unplugging the drive and plugging other drives in (it was unlocked). I believe there is a copy of the flash on the HDD (but I can't read it!). During my initial recovery, I have a copy of XBINS site, so I have all the tools on there (just that it is nearly 20 years since I used any of the tools and setup an XBOX!).... Thanks for any help...

https://imgur.com/a/OJsz0Uw please click that link so that u can see a video of what i'm talking about. you'll notice that there are vertical static(static as in fuzzy static on a tv not, static as in "unchanging") lines on the screen when there is a dark scene. the video doesn't show it too well but they are even easier to see in person. that is the opening sequence of xmen legends. i have this problem on 2 of my stock xbox v1.0's and on my modded v1.4(i also have the diagonal lines on it). the lines do not appear on my v1.6's. i've tried it on 2 stock and one modded 1.6 and none of the 3 have the problem. i am connected thru the official hd xbox thing(with the component cable outputs). i'm wondering if it is an issue with certain capacitors that cause this? if so, does anyone know which specific ones cause it? the reason i ask is because it would be a pain to fully recap each board of the xbox when they are functioning perfectly in all other areas so i'd rather just replace the specific ones instead of recapping the whole board. btw, none of the cap are bulging or show obvious wear. i know that the 1.4's are very prone to the diagonal lines because of bad caps but i don't which ones are the problem.

I know people get really tired of hearing this debate, but I'd like to make my position as clear as possible once and for all. First and foremost: The reason the LPC exists on the Xbox motherboard is because the TSOP is soldered to the board blank, and programmed via the lpc port later in the manufacturing process. When the TSOP is blank, the xbox then looks to the LPC for a bios image to boot. This is because a pre-programmed rom is more expensive than a blank eeprom (TSOP in this case). It also allowed Microsoft to more easily update the bios image in new Xboxes for whatever reason. So we know that they would have to retool the LPC programming device if they disconnected some LPC points. This new tool would need to be incredibly fine because the point it needs to make contact with is no longer a nice big pad. Since nobody can find a 1.5, this retooling would have been for just a handful of motherboards. So they would have gone through this expense of retooling for such a tiny amount of boards it wouldn't have made any sense. Next, what exactly did the alleged 1.5 board prevent? It ONLY would slow down mod chip installation. I say slow down because any knucklehead with a DMM could figure out how to get it working again. It does absolutely nothing to stop soft modding or TSOP flashing. Why would Microsoft go to such an expense to stop only one method of modding the Xbox? I don't doubt that people have found LPC points that show no continuity. This could be because of the very programmer I mentioned at the beginning of this post. It could be due to trace rot. It could be due to operator error in measuring the components. Whatever the reason for a person measuring this situation, I don't believe it was a particular version of motherboards that Microsoft intended to put out. We saw with the 1.6, where it DID come with a pre-programmed rom (so no TSOP) on the board that they could finally disconnect the LPC. That's why we have to rebuild it there. It is perfectly consistent. It stops TSOP mods. It stops modchips for noobs. It required a new bios that supported the new video encoder. I think they believed they could use updates on game disks and Xbox Live to patch the softmods. So they thought they had all the bases covered with 1.6. I got my information from the Xbox-Linux Project. They published an article on Xbox Security which I preserved on this site. "Now other people found out that, if the flash chip is completely missing, the Xbox wants to read from a (non-existant) ROM chip connected to the (serial) LPC bus. This is of course because of the manufac- turing process: As it has been explained before, the flash chip gets programmed in-system, the first time they are turned on, using an external LPC ROM chip. Modchip makers soon developed chips that only needed 9 wires and connected to the LPC bus. It was enough to ground the data line D0 to make the Xbox think that flash memory is empty. Lots of these “cheapermods” appeared, as they only consisted of a single serial flash memory chip. They could be installed within minutes, especially after some companies started shipping chips that used pogo pins, so that no soldering was required. Some groups wrote applications like boot menus that made it possible to copy games to hard disk and run them from there. Patched Xbox kernels ap- peared that supported bigger hard disks. Making the Xbox run copies from DVD-R or hard disk as well as homebrew applications written with the official Xbox SDK was now easy." https://www.ogxbox.com/archive/xboxsecurity.html It's under the "Modchips" heading.

Hey everyone. Thanks for this community - yet another Xbox 1.4 that's been with me since it was new, out of the closet and getting the gold star treatment.

I updated two games, counter strike and mech assualt. As expected my trainers no longer work with the game updates. my xbox is soft modded and i can access the hdd via ftp. How can I go about removing them? thank you in advance for any help, it is appreciated.

Got a version 1.0 that is flashing orange (high temp) immediately after power up. ADM1032 chip looks good and meters out fine for power and I2C bus connections, but when I throw a logic analyzer on the bus, it never returns a READ response. 1.958481000000000,I2C,Setup Write to ['152'] + NAK 1.958792500000000,I2C,Setup Write to ['152'] + NAK 1.959192000000000,I2C,Setup Write to ['152'] + NAK 1.959548000000000,I2C,Setup Write to ['152'] + NAK 1.960861500000000,I2C,Setup Write to ['152'] + NAK Compare that to a "good" box I have than returns both MB and CPU temps over and over during the boot process. 1.069577000000000,I2C,Setup Write to ['152'] + ACK 1.069807500000000,I2C,'1' + ACK 1.070072000000000,I2C,Setup Read to ['153'] + ACK 1.070300500000000,I2C,'24' + NAK 1.070584000000000,I2C,Setup Write to ['152'] + ACK 1.070815000000000,I2C,'0' + ACK 1.071078000000000,I2C,Setup Read to ['153'] + ACK 1.071306000000000,I2C,'23' + NAK Before I replace it, any other thoughts? Clock cap was still on the board, but actually looked pretty good (minimal leakage), and the ADM1032 and surrounding area has been cleaned several times with IPA.

After many years of service, and too much time without a power on, my beloved Xbox 1.0 decided to not boot anymore. In my attempts to revive it, I stumbled on this forum. Awesome discovery. So much updated information on how to mod the original Xbox that I felt in love again with the machine. It was really amazing to find such an active and supportive community. Happy to have joined you and hello to everybody!

Hello everyone I have been working on a slim xbox build and have it 95% working the way it should with some off the shelf parts that are not the pico psu. The only sticky issue that is pretty minor is the switched power requirements. I don't really understand electronics that well past what I call a "blackbox" understanding. You know, I understand that the boards I use say they will take a certain voltage in and output whatever but no knowledge to build a more complex circuit for switching the reset line for the smc. I am using a meanwell psu that is rated for 5v20A that you can find in a lot of places on the internet. Then I am using two boards from Pololu. One to step up the voltage to 12v:https://www.pololu.com/product/2568 and another to knock the 5v down to 3.3v https://www.pololu.com/product/4090 I was wondering if you all could help me with a schematic or some understanding of how to switch on and off the 3.3v signals to help reset the smc. I have some idea that you could use some transistors maybe to accomplish this but I am not super sure. The goal here would be to use the above boards in custom pcb for future slim xbox builds. Sorry if this isn't super clear Here is the picture of my install and somewhat self evident why it could be better looking

Hard drive activity on the eject button led. To do that mod you don’t need an LED since we make use of the LED on the eject botton which give us a nice and clean look. Each time the hard drive read or write data, the orange (or “amber” if you prefer) led lights up and that will make you happy (Note: This just works for a man, not woman!). So what do we need: Wire. 30 AWG works for me. 10K resistor. Small piece heat shrink. Solder, Iron, Flux, IPA. Super duper glue or your hot glue gun. Optional : A beer a cup of coffee or tee. At this time you can choose the last time by your self until the tutorial is done! Ok, lets start by tear down your x-box like you normaly do and put the mainboard with the bottom side up in front you. The back ports should be facing upwards. When you have an v1.0 to v1.4 you should search for the resistor R3V2 (The v1.5 unicorne should have it one the same place, I guess). For v1.6 or v1.6b search for the resistor R3V3. (Yap, they are both on the same spot and do the same but M$ choose to lable those differently.) So when you have found the resistor, solder one end of the wire to the left side of the resistor. Now that this is done aim for the IDE connector. Measure how much wire you need to get to the IDE pin shown in the Picture (Don`t forget the length of your resistor.). It’s the first pin on the left side on top of the connector. Now solder your 10K resitor to the other end of the wire and put some heat shrink on it. Last but not least solder the end of the resitor to the IDE pin. Now it’ s time to put back together your x-box and test your new mod, of which, you can be unbelievably proud of– in case you didn't screw it up somewhere… like me on the 1.6 because I wasn’t aware that MS choose to lable the resistors wrong (remember?). But thats there fault and not mine so let us blame them for that! Still reading? Why? You have reached the end of, what ever you wanna call it, and can now make your own decisions again! (Except you have a wife/girlfriend, then you’re totally screwed cuz it’s on her to make decisions for you!). For real. I hope you had fun with this and you enjoy your new little mod. I’m out. PS. You found typos or i miss spelled something? See, you got that on top without a tip!