Search the Community

Hi guys im back. So i have a question, can any of this sata hdds be an upgrade tp a xbox with evox-m8 bios? Wester Digital-WD5000AADS Maxtor-YAR51HW0 ExcelStor-J9250S Thanks from Portugal

og xbox 1.4ghz and ram upgrade anyone have one for sale let me know will pay high cash for one ok thanks

og xbox 1.4ghz and ram upgrade anyone have one for sale will pay asap let me know ok thanks

How? (more specifically, where to get one?)

Hi - I recently updated my hard drive using HDM v 1.9 and it is now ready to mod - I have two options 1. Since I have all the files from back in the day to use Splinter Cell the SID I could mod it easily then I can use put Rocky 5 over it using the Rocky 5 disk. OR 2. Go to the trouble of setting up Rocky 5 Memory card mod -using a flash drive and Splinter Cell - have all the leads from back in the day and recently downloaded all the files and software needed. My question is does it matter if I choose the lazy option (number 1 above) or since I'm starting afresh with a new drive should I take the Option 2 route? Thanks in advance

I have to start by saying thank you in particular to Floydzabarber as I must have watched his video about the RAM upgrade a dozen times. Well, I ordered some chips a couple weeks ago and I gave the RAM upgrade a try tonight. I performed the "surgery" on a rev 1.1 board and all the pads were nicely tinned, which was a bonus. Here are my tools of the trade which made this upgrade a breeze: Hakko FX888D-29BY Digital Soldering Station T18-D16 Soldering Iron Tip (bevelled, which originally came with my Hakko soldering station) Kester 24-6337-8806 245 No-Clean Flux Core Solder, 63/37 .015" MG Chemicals 836-P No Clean Flux Pen JARLINK 30X 60X Illuminated Jewelers Eye Loupe Magnifier 99.9% Isopropyl Alcohol Liquid Cleaner (used with cotton swabs) To start, I highly recommend that you stay FAR, FAR away from a hot air / rework station for this project unless you have wicked, magical skills with soldering. Even then, I'm sure it would be way slower to use a hot air / rework station as compared to a proper soldering iron. Prior to jumping into the soldering phase, I installed a modchip with the 256kb crcwell.bin BIOS. That is the XBlast OS which will boot and test the RAM. You definitely need to test that your Xbox is booting into this BIOS before commencing the RAM upgrade. The tip of the soldering iron, for me, is a multipurpose tool. The tip that I identified above was the perfect size (for me) and it had a small bevel that I used as a gauge for how much solder to apply. I would apply a little less solder for the short sides as compared to the longer sides and that same tip was the perfect tool for removing solder from bridged pins. (Do yourself a favour and at least go get a small bevelled tip for whatever soldering iron you are using.) To prep the board, I cleaned the tinned pads with a cotton swab and the Isopropyl Alcohol. (I think if I were doing the mod on a board that didn't have tinned pads, I'd probably tin them first.) I then used a flux pen to wet the pads liberally. I placed the chip in the proper orientation (as the chip next to it) and then I verified that it was nicely aligned by using my eye loupe while keeping it from moving with a soft press of my finger. (Okay, I'm getting old and my sight isn't what it used to be. LOL!) As I held the chip in place, my other hand prepped the soldering iron (set on 750 deg f) to ensure that it looked nice and shiny. (If your tip isn't prepared correctly you will have a problem.) I then put a tiny amount of solder on the tip of the soldering iron and dragged it fairly quickly across the pins on one side. (It is important to note that I only ever added solder to the tip once per side.) I cleaned the soldering iron tip and repeated the process for the other sides. (As soon as you touch a pad with the tip of the iron you can see the solder shoot up the pin to the top. Never hold the iron tip on a pad, not even for a second. There is no reason to ever do that with this RAM upgrade.) After I did all four sides, I noticed that a couple of pins were bridged. (This totally happens and you need to handle the removal of extra solder correctly.) First, I added lots of flux to the bridged area and then I cleaned my soldering iron tip so that no solder was on it. (I used a wet but dry sponge.) Instead of dragging the tip across all pins, I rotated the iron by 90 degrees so that I could "pet" or stroke the chip's legs/feet. It only took a split second for the solder to quickly wick onto the surface area of the tip of my iron. After each attempt, I cleaned the tip and if I noticed that there wasn't enough flux on the pins, I added it before the next attempt. The solder wicks away typically in under three attempts at cleaning the bridge because I don't use much solder at all in this process. When I was happy with what I could see with my naked eyes, it was time to look at the work with the loupe (lighted magnifying glass). I'll start by saying that a jewelers loupe is a very inexpensive item that will easily fit in your toolbox and I believe it to be an essential tool for soldering chips (unless you have a microscope). A lighted jeweler's loupe (for me) is much better than a standard magnifying glass. With the loupe, I checked from the top to see nice separation between the pins and then I changed the viewing angle and looked between each pin on the chip and the pad on the board. Once I completed the verification with the loupe, I cleaned the soldered areas with the Isopropyl Alcohol, hooked up the board to the case and booted it up. It immediately went into the XBlast OS and I saw the 128MB at the top of the screen. From there, I then went into the tools and ran the RAM test and all was good. Anyway, I thought I'd share my experience in an attempt to inspire some of you to try this out. If any of the more experienced members would like to provide me with some good criticism, I welcome that too. Cheers!

So my previous setup was using a cheapo sata/ide converter with a 80 wire cable, which actually worked pretty well, I haven't had any issues with it, but I decided to try the startech adapter too just to see if there was in fact a difference in loading times instead and I encounter a weird issue. I'm running IND 5003 bios and when I boot the xbox the flubber animation is very choppy and the audio doesn't sync up. It does load to the dashboard but the boot-up is pretty glitchy. I tried another ide cable and messed around with the pin settings with no avail. I could just disable the flubber animation but I'd like to try and get it running smoothly. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

I can’t seem to find a clear answer anywhere. Do I remove the jumper pin from the sata HDD since the sata/ide adaptor has its own jumper pin selections? I just need to know the configuration so I can clone it using chimp. Any help would be appreciated thanks!

I've near zero experience with hard mods on the og xbox. I'm pretty savvy with soldering so I'm considering doing a ram upgrade. I've got an aladdin XT clone in the mail. My question is this: Which bios will I need to flash on a 1.6 xbox for it to recognize 1tb of storage and the 128mb of ram?

Hi all, so I pulled out my og Xbox that's already got evo x on it from years ago but it's old n out dated and I'm wanting to know how can I download a newer bios version and can I install this through ftp or does it have to be through USB ? Also what dashboard would ppl recommend and from where can I dl it ?

Hey guys.... I just found my original Crystal modded xbox from years ago tucked away in a corner in the loft. Only thing is it has faulty Ethernet port. Is it easy to swap them out for a replacement? If so does anyone have a tut?? Otherwise i want to update the softmod that is in it..... I bought it already modded and it was supposed to be chipped but well i have opened it and there is deffo no modchip inside. Its also a 1.6 so no TSOP either so by process of elimination it has to be softmodded. My question is..... Am i safe to run Rocky5's softmod updater from the extras disc to update it? If so can i...(using a FATX formatted usb stick) copy the extracted extras disc to the E drive and run it from there as i cannot seem to get the DVD drive to read anything.... Oh yeah heres a quick vid of the old school XBMC dash it has on it

Selling a tsop'd v1.2 mobo w/ ind-5004 bios & 128mb RAM upgrade... $80

Ive just upgraded a hard drive to a 250gb from a 8gb in a chipped xbox which has xecuter2 chip installed. but after usung xbpartitioner 1.3 off the hexen disc. I set f::\ partion to use remaning free space..All seems well., even in the hexen main menu it shows that f:\ partition is 240gb. But when i restart xbox in the unleashX dash it only shows 120gb. so show i load xbpartitioner off the hard drive and it show me a error message "LBA48 Info not found! custom partitions will not work with this bios" etc. So now i try creating 2 partions f:\ for 120gb and g:\ 120gb. but again only f:\ shows up with 120gb. do i need to some how update xecuter2 chip or would i be better removing the chip and tsopping the console? thanks

Hello OG Xbox Members i am new here and i am here to stay.... However i am in trouble with something right now i recently picked up a MAXTOR PATA133 DIAMOND MAX 10 200GB (IDE HDD) and it seems to be failing when cloning with chimp not sure if i have to reformat the drive and repair the bad sectors but how would i do that using my PC is there a way i can use the IDE cable from the xbox and plug it into my motherboard from my PC and clone my HDD that way any programs out there for such activities Or would it be best for me to buy a IDE to sata connector from ebay and just use the 2TB 3.5" barracuda HDD that i just have laying around not sure if i will even need that much space unless i download the A-Z games list has me thinking thos please any suggestions to help me sway my ideas would be helpful sorry for any mistakes whilst typing Tired moments Kinx Gorilla

So ive been trying to clone my original xbox hard drive over to a wd1600aajs hard drive and i cannot get it to work. I have to set my jumper to slave to even get chimp to boot right, this is the adapter i used people said it worked for them in the comments and i wasn't really trying to spend the like 25 bucks for a good one. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JVUXMRI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

hey everyone, i replaced the cap in my 1.6 xbox and also finished the modchip (atleast i hope i did) and before i hooked up the dvd drive and hdd i tried to test it but all it does is come on and then go off and it does it twice and then on the last time it comes on and flashes red and green over and over, the mod chip has a orange light on and i am also attaching some pictures of my wire job let me know if i did something incorrectly EDIT: i looked for a different diagram and found i had done two wires wrong and now it is booting perfectly!

Buddy sent me two OG consoles I had modded for him way back in the day. Both are TSOP flashed. Both had leaky battery clock caps, so they were removed and the boards were cleaned up. Both are running Avalaunch. XBOX #1 is a 1.1 with 1MB TSOP so I went ahead and flashed X2 5035 to it(had 4983,06 prior). No issues with this box, made copy of 160GB hdd, swapped IDE HDD for SATA SSD with adapter, formatted disks, copied files back over, updated apps etc. It boots without any issues and behaves normally. XBOX #2 is a 1.4. It has 4983.06 flashed and has a 250GB IDE drive installed. When I got the box it was fragging so I booted EVOX CD and it appeared that the dashboard xbe was gone. Copied it over again via FTP and it booted fine. Everything seemed to be working(games/apps). Tried to make a backup via Avalaunch FTP and after a few files ava would freeze up. Loaded evox and was able to copy files without any issues. Installed 250GB SSD in this xbox, boot my installer disk and format the partitions. Seems to go ok but the partitions still read 0bytes. Boot again off evox installer disk, it shows all partitions as 0bytes but after about 10-20 seconds they start to populate with size. I am able to FTP files to them once they show up. Reboot, still fragging. Ok, so after all of that BS, I bought another box off eBay. It comes softmodded with 160GB drive. Manage to get it TSOP flashed as well and remove the battery capacitor. Try to install several other hard drives, format, and install, see the same exact issue with the pausing and fragging on boot. Install original drive on either of these two and they work fine. I assume this is hardware, more than likely from the leaking capacitors. I plan on pulling the boards and touching up the solder on all of the components that had electrolyte on them as well as doing another inspection, but not sure if anyone has seen this and found a fix.

Tryin to upgrade a hard drive. Its a 1.4 . . . It IS just the 2 bridges i need to do right? . . .

does anyone on here know how to upgrade the cpu on a original xbox cause I would like to preform that mod but I do not know what to buy to do it.

What would it cost to get this done I’ve tryed looking no good

I wanted to play Simpsons hit and run on my Hard modded 2tb xbox. The game freezes on the first loading screen. I have looked online and see this is common for the pc and Ps2 version. Is there a solution? Thanks

Ok, I just got my hard modded 2TB xbox finished. I started to play 007 Nightfire. I beat the first level, I go to save to the xbox HDD, and the xbox takes me to this screen. I have saved in other games and never had this problem. It does save to my xbox memory unit fine. Any help?

I’m thinking of upgrading the ram not sure is it worth it

So I really want to upgrade the HDD but I'm super worried about bricking my system. How risky is it and what are the best steps to take for preventing a brick?

I wasn't sure whether to post this here or in repair, but since it happened during a TSOP mod I though I'd try here first. Picked up a 1.4 version at a Salvation Army today, green model worked great but filthy inside. Cleaned it up, removed clock capacitor and did the two TSOP points. Reassembled and before I even load into Hexen my video signal has lines going across the screen. After messing around I find that the problem is only with component output (hd output) and standard def av works fine. Thing is, component worked fine before I disassembled so I'm convinced the problem must have been caused by something I did - but all I did was pull the clock cap and do the 2 tsop points... Tried another component cable.. same result. Tried another tv, got a glitched looking display or 'mode not supported'. I'm convinced it's now outputting some garbled attempt at an hd signal that neither of my tvs can process correctly. Have 2 other xboxes and both display hd perfect with the same cables and tvs. I guess I can just sell it with some standard cables but losing the hd kinda kills the awesomeness so I'd really like to fix this if possible. This is like the second weird obscure xbox mystery for me in like a week, sheesh:)