OGXbox Admin
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I actually disabled the downloads section. It may be temporary or may be permanent. People sometimes submit content that is against the rules. Normally a mod doesn't approve them and it goes nowhere. Sometimes mistakes are made. I work all the time and don't catch everything. When I get a chance I check and if I find something, I freak out because the very last thing I want to do is break the law. So, I disabled the downloads so I could go through them all and remove anything I find that is questionable. Why? There are other places those things are already hosted. They don't need to be hosted here. Then I asked myself... why have the downloads section at all? If this is why you or anyone has purchased a membership, PM me and we'll discuss our options for cancelling membership.
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Lol so it "actually" IS a banned word. NOT because I don't want you to use it. It's because some spam bots were advertising casual encounters, casual hookups, casual meetups, casual ANYTHING and I banned all of the other terms but they kept circumventing those. So, I ended up solving the problem by banning the word casual. So... while I admit it DOES seem ridiculous, it has a purpose. For those of us that CAN post the words, we have paid subscriptions or are mods and can bypass the bad word filters and certain other things. If the spam bots start buying subscriptions I may have to rethink that but for now it needs to stay the way it is.
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It was ~20 years ago. I'm afraid I don't remember exactly when it was.
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I used a chameleon mod chip... but it shouldn't matter. To give a bit of background, we know that Xbox motherboards were assembled and the TSOP was programmed while in system. That's why the LPC is exposed in the first place. They would boot from lpc and then program the tsop from it. So that's how we knew it was possible. There was some talk about what effect D0 has on the MCPX and why it changes the address the Xbox boots from. It was then discovered that if the TSOP is blank the Xbox will boot from LPC. So MS didn't need to hold D0 low to boot from lpc. So that gave us some hope that if we time it right, we can boot from LPC and flash the TSOP. I knew that if I left the chip on the LPC, even if lifting D0 I would never be confident that I actually flashed the TSOP. I just soldered D0 to the chip's D0 point. (Any ground on the chip will work) Then when I lifted the chip from the lpc pins I knew D0 wasn't grounded and the chip wouldn't be detected/flashed. I tried several different timings. Lifting off too soon would result in FRAG. Lifting too late and the XDK hardware refresh disk just wouldn't flash anything. I timed it just right and it flashed the TSOP(as well as rewrote the hdd. You should probably put an empty one you don't care to overwrite in there for this process.) The only risk on this is putting the chip down on the wrong pins. Make sure you do that right every time and you really can't hurt anything.
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Are you saying you moved the jumper while the Xbox was on? I don't understand what "turned the button" means. I'm guessing you're softmodded and you're trying to hot swap hard drives.
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It shouldn't theoretically, but most of us have had it happen. It looks like it's working perfectly fine and then suddenly a partition is corrupt. You can format and start over and it happens again. Replace ONLY the stock 40 wire with an 80 wire and the problem goes away. It may not make any sense why it happens, but we know it CAN happen... so why not just take that problem out of the equation? Maybe if someone wants to get to the bottom of "why" we will have our answer, but for me it's so easy to avoid I just throw an 80 wire in and move on. It's like wondering why somebody keeps picking on you. Eventually you realize it makes more sense to just avoid the bully rather than continuing to get your ass beat while you investigate.
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Since we know using a 40 wire can cause issues even if things seem to be working for the moment, why even waste your time with a 40 wire? Just use an 80 wire cable and remove those problems from the equation. Why introduce a new point of failure when you do not have to? This type of thinking will just never make sense to me.
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What did you lock the hard drive with? You should be able to unlock it. They set known master passwords depending on what you used. Secondly, If you're capable of desoldering a capacitor and soldering in a new one, you're capable of soldering a modchip into the xbox. It's basically the easiest console to hard mod. Do that so you don't need to lock hard drives anymore.
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Re-reading this after 3 years and I got a little bit angry. The "they lied to me that this was easy" thing is something I have no tolerance for. You're trying to make this do something it was never designed to do. With anything you may run the risk of having a different experience than everyone else. You work through it or if you're not capable you pay someone else to work through it for you. You don't just rage quit and blame everyone else for your own failure. How depressing!
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Just trying to get some specifics on what I should cover. What gaps should I bridge if I do a video tutorial or something?
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Ok I just looked for my schematic and a quick search came up empty so let me give you the quick hits. #1. These screens take 12v power in but that IMMEDIATELY runs into a 5v regulator that the rest of the screen runs off of. No matter the size, almost all of these LED backlit PORTABLE LCD's do that. (I'm quite certain a 70+ inch tv will use a higher voltage than that due to many more LED's in series BUT these portable LCD's tend to use 5V.) That is a requirement here since USB is 5V. Trying to run 12v to the screen will be a no-go as you also up the current drawn and you will be forced to compromise the design. Great news though, you don't have to. This was the only part that really took any soldering skill imo. My skills have come a long way since this video was made and now I feel a bit embarrassed by how badly I stressed that point. I still don't think MOST can pull this off, but we're not most here. #2. It's also important to know that usb 1.1 is usually about 500ma or half an amp for max current draw. This combined with required mount strength is why I used two ports as my draw ended up being around .8 amps for the screen. #3 You have to sacrifice the controller port 3 and 4 functionality if you want audio. You can try bluetooth(I did too) but you'll get lag that will make it a fail build. (You CAN make it better and you'll tell yourself the lag doesn't exist, then that it exists but you can live with it, then that it's balls and you've failed and need a better idea. These are the stages of modder grief.) The audio amplifier is installed into the xbox itself because of room (where would you install it if part of your screen?) AND because that puts us over the current limitations. So the USB data lines were cut and used as audio lines. I think L+R+ was port 3 and L-R- was port 4 but you can do what you want there. DO NOT common ground your amplifier returns. I know you think it will be fine. It won't. #4 The yellow wire of either (you only need 1) port will be composite video. If you get noise, you may need to use a scope to find the frequency of the noise and select the appropriate capacitor as a filter. If you route your wires properly though you can pretty well eliminate it as I show in this video. There is none perceptible in this particular build. #5 Ground is common.
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There are decades of thermal pastes being used successfully, thus disproving your theory. You're refusing to blame yourself when you are your problem. If your cpu overheated after you applied thermal paste but did not after you used a thermal pad, and they were of similar w/mk ratings then the application was the problem. All you're doing is saying that applying thermal paste is too hard for you. That's fine. There is nothing wrong with that if thermal pads help you. Other people may not need training wheels on their bikes or bumpers at the bowling alley. Don't attempt to disparage them for not struggling with basic tasks or tell them they are "wrong" for being capable people.
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"pump out". What? If you had better experience with a thermal pad (idiot proof) than thermal paste of the same or higher w/mk rating then you applied it incorrectly. Saying PTM7950 is "the best option" is like saying wearing a helmet and water wings is "the best way to walk".
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You failed to say in what way I'm wrong. Since you chose to say "you're wrong" you need to say how I'm wrong. You gave some anecdotal evidence about a time you clearly did something wrong because paste going bad in only 3 months isn't reality. So your argument is actually that you're not capable of repasting a cpu and it was better off before you touched it.
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Anyone have any idea who produces this mod??
OGXbox Admin replied to nikeymikey's topic in Hardware Mods
Yeah. It's the XIR Pro kit from http://www.xir.us/xirpro.aspx
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Board startup date: April 23, 2017 12:45:48