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Dear All, As you know, the stock fan of original Xbox is quite loud, and given the age about 15 to 16 years I decided to upgrade/replace the fan, read some forums and some suggest the Nexus 70mm Real Silence fan, which has an airflow of 21.1 CFM, but since I'm from Europe this fan is not available almost in no place, owing probably to being an older fan design, looked for alternatives, and some suggested a Noctua 80mm which we need to butch the HDD plastic bay to fit on the box, but there's also a 60mm model, which fits excellently which is NF-A6x25 FLX. that address an airflow of 29,2 CFM which is better than the first solution Nexus 70 mm. Alright connected the fan with the 4 anti vibration rubbers and this is the final result. Still haven't replace the thermal paste, that's going to be my next project, really now I have a quiet XBOX on my hands

I've picked up a chatpad, just updating the ogx360 firmware to parse the buttons correctly. Going good! I think this will work fine. I think I've got everything I need to get this going! Currently working: The console thinks a Steel Battalion controller is connected. This was the hardest part in my opinion. Everything else is just testing and time. Steel Battalion game registers inputs, including analog joysticks. pedals and digital buttons Need to do: Finish off Chatpad support (complete) Easy way to configure buttons for end users so you can configure it how you prefer. Some way to representthe LED lights, gear stick position etc. Integrate into current firmware so you can switch between a Duke Controller and Steel Battalion Controller (complete)

Made an Arcade control panel using an original Xbox Type-S controller PCB Followed the wiring schematics from http://slagcoin.com/joystick/pcb_wiring.html#PCB_DIAGRAMS And came up with this design... The 2 momentary black push buttons are left click (LC) and right click (RC) & the red one serves as an ON/OFF button. At first I thought I would have both left & right analog stick control , but that was not very feasible, at least for me( input welcomed if someone has wired up an analog control for an og xbox controller?) ... So instead I went with the d-pad for movement control. If there is enough interest I wouldn't mind making a build video for another one. Hope you guys like it! Thoughts & input welcomed

I've just got a first batch from the PCB Fab! And made an etsy page if anyone doesn't feel like making one themselves https://www.etsy.com/au/listing/672315615/ogx360-add-wireless-xbox-360-controller

Got 3 Diy install sets for the internal HDMI mod for sale right now. Keep in mind you should be handy with a soldering iron. It's not a lot more complicated than a chip install but if you already have trouble with an xbox chip leave this mod alone for now. Price for each set is: 70€ +shipping costs. Drop me a PM if you want one!

Hi all, I'm wanting to emulate the Steel Battalion Controller and to allow use of a keyboard or joystick or some other configuration which I haven't worked out yet. Just wondering if anyone owns a Steel Battalion Controller, a >24Mhz Logic analyser, a sense of adventure and is willing to help me out!? The information online which I have found so far is pretty limited, There's a small section at the bottom of http://xboxdevwiki.net/Xbox_Input_Devices but it is missing the rest of the interface descriptor and also doesn't have any information about the XID descriptor and capability descriptors allowing the Xbox to actually detect anything with my basic testing. (Maybe it doesn't even have them? I'm not sure yet) What I am looking for in the first instance is: 1. A complete USB descriptor dump of the Steel Battalion Controller when plugged into a PC using something like https://www.thesycon.de/eng/usb_descriptordumper.shtml 2..A Logic analyser trace of the USB data bus with the controller plugged into the OG Xbox console, probably within the Steel Battalion game or during the first 10-20 seconds of the game loading up. I'm a bit more familiar with the Saleae logic analyser software but I can probably work out whatever. But ideally it needs to be able to decode USB packets and control transfers. You can get Saleae clones for under $10 https://ebay.us/BFvaaH 3. I will take care of the rest unless I find something unusual and need further info. I've never actually used or owned one of these controllers so any input to what a good controller configuration on a keyboard/joystick might be would help but getting it detected on the OG Xbox console is the first milestone! Obviously can't guarantee anything, but the intent is that it would be compatible with https://github.com/Ryzee119/ogx360 Cheers!

hey everyone thanks to a bunch of people in discord, i managed to wire a wii2hdmi adapter to the xbox for hdmi and audio, works great and there is a difference between it and composite, i dont have a good way to screenshot it, i tried doing a live stream on twitch but was having connection problems so it does not look to good, however if you want you can check the videos here https://www.twitch.tv/ironsniper1/videos and here is the diagrams, the one with the top of the xbox av port is if you completely desoldered the av port and are replacing the av port with the adapter and the bottom is if you are leaving the av port and just soldering in some wires to the port and adapter

I used the one you sent me. Internal install. I installed it under the DVD with double sided tape, and hot glued the top of the chip so it would not spark on anything. (If you are using a Philips DVD Drive, this will not work because of the bump under the drive) Then I attached the sensor to the right side of the xbox, by controller ports 3 and 4. Looks great. I'll post pics soon.

I’ve not been “in” the scene but I’ve been following it for a long time and can say it was pretty sad. But it you know what? It’s not something that really even *can* be defeated. Mod/ROM/Emu sites are honestly in as much danger as they were 4-5 years ago. It’s all PR. Yeah, publishers and going all gung-ho on ROM sites but they really didn’t do much but take down one and scare off the next two-four most popular ones. ISOZONE has already been backed up and I’m not sure but think it’s replacement may already be running. Even if not, go try to find some ROM. Any ROM, any search engine. I doubt you’ll have much trouble. The internet - and the world - are way too large to really ferret out everyone who backs up and then redistributes this content. It’s too easy compared to the Herculean effort required to renew licensing deals for a lot of these games. A few good examples - Azurik, Blinx, Brute Force, and Conker. M$ isn’t even gonna sell you those. There’s no margins there after all the work. Xbox as a whole is a good example as there are plenty of publishing houses and devs that worked on that system that are just *gone*. Who’s gonna sell you those? Nobody. But I bet if you name almost any game you wanna play on your OG Xbox there’s a dozen or more people in the scene somewhere or another who’ll help you get it. IF you can’t still find it online. Personally I’d prefer a world without piracy but funnily enough, copyright protection puts software publishers in such a place that it’s almost impossible not to foster piracy after a point. Developers deserve credit for the HARD work they put in to make amazing games for us. That said, paying some eBay scalper $400 for a copy of Conker’s Bad Fur Day doesn’t do dick for Rare, and that same example can be extended pretty far.

I have a controller being shipped to me soon, and assuming it works I have all the equipment to get you what you need.

boards arrived now just waiting on components. cheers ryzee119

I have a pack of hdd fix for games here the link: https://mega.nz/#!DBQTWYgS!sVLmD-BgzlYaJMO4-w7dznU7c7ysVEypRx4wtJ33ZuU

Hi all, Long time modder and lurker, first time poster but I wanted to share a project I have been working on the last couple months. It is a small PCB which allows you to use Wireless Xbox 360 controllers (via the Xbox 360 USB Wireless Receiver) on an OG Xbox console. The design is loosely based on another similar project I did for the Nintendo 64 console https://imgur.com/gallery/HVLea3d Following the release of this board another forum user sent me an email asking if this device could be adapted for the OG Xbox, and funnily enough that was the next thing I was going to attempt! I wanted to support the following features atleast: Up to four players with rumble support. 100% USB Bus Powered so no external power supply needed. Fast bootup time, so it's up and running in time for the OG Xbox. Low input lag. As always, this is a hard thing to measure, however I can say that an OG Xbox controller is polled by the console every 4ms or so. My software gathers all the Xbox 360 wireless controller data, collates it and generates all the HID reports every 4 ms aswell. It's possible an input may miss this 4ms window, so would happen in the next 4ms window. As you probably know, an OG Xbox controller is basically a USB HID device, however it has some custom requests and other slight differences, meaning that it doesn't work on a Windows machine without a custom driver, and conversely a generic HID controller will not work in an OG Xbox so there was some work in getting a reliable and compatible solution working. To support four controllers, it is necessary to have 4x Full USB device controllers. However I imagine most people would rarely play with 4 people at once so my design is modular meaning you can support anywhere from one up to 4 players as required to keep cost down. This is a link to the github repo with what I came up with https://github.com/Ryzee119/ogx360 A link to my etsy store where you can buy one pre-assembled https://www.etsy.com/au/listing/672315615/ogx360-add-wireless-xbox-360-controller Cheers!

I wanted to get toonami aftermath the kodi add on installed for Xbmc4xbox, Was told kodi add ons wont work with xbmc4xbox. Is there anyway to install this add on or perhaps configure an already existing add on to Connect to the Toonami Aftermath Fan stream? Or am i just in way over my head. I have been up for some time configuring and Getting and Xbox upgraded.

i installed all popular unofficial repositories, some of addons work but the issue is the video is HD, The FPS drops alot or cache buffer is full. Xphaser fixed cache buffer issue at XBMC4XBOX https://www.xbmc4xbox.org.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1311 Its rare to find any repositories with addons .stream SD video, one solution i think could work, like @neighbor said, is to change resolution from HD to 480p in addon.

Ryzee119, this is damn cool! glad someone took the time to figure this out! will make a sweet upgrade on my console. can't wait till they are back in stock. btw you made it on hack a day

got my controller, just have to reflash a SD card for my pitaya and test to make sure the controller works then I can start reading the buttons.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9UBf0iuQA1g Grab XDSL 7.0 here: https://www.xbmc4xbox.org.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=566&sid=219102806e3e01a7ce84724c64a77321 Once inside XDSL go to "mydsl" and then inside "System" install Wine. Now go into the systems panel and go to sound, click yes to deactivate whatever is running, this will make sound work, it seems it doesn't work by default. open firefox and download https://archive.org/details/GrimFandangoDemo go into the file manager, rename .exe to zip and unpack, right click on grim demo exe and pick run with wine. Simple as pie, most games will not run using this wine method cause the wine in Xdsl is ancient and there doesn't seem to be any 3d acceleration in wine (maybe somebody can port the latest wine to xdsl?) so grim runs i think in some sort of 3d software mode, but it's full speed. You will need to solder usb ports to your fourth joystick port to use a keyboard/mouse to play grim fandango (thats what I did aeon ago) or buy a joystick2keyboardmouse adapter.

There is a newer version of this distro: https://www.xbmc4xbox.org.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=566

I ordered one a few weeks ago, just patiently waiting for it to come in!

A decent amount of research, recording, money, and fun went into making this video! Haven't done one in this style before, but it seems to be getting an overwhelmingly positive reception. It might not be perfect, but I figured it would be fitting to post here. Enjoy~

this is where i got it from also this was provided to me by Reo Au In on discord

In game with a Wireless Xbox 360 Controller. Totally unplayable at the moment but just a proof of concept. Just a matter of mapping buttons and adding a keyboard in. Still need to check alot of stuff but definitely making progress!

Ah i'm stupid, the media folder was missing from MAMEoXtras v2.1u1 and it's not autocreated so I copied it from MAMEoXtras v2.1, now works, case closed.

The controller tester app does not recognize any key presses from the SB controller.

I can defenetly do that. I will order the analyzer. I will be on vacation until the 20th of February. I can start after that. How do you pm me directly?

I have a steel battalion controller and am willing to help. I do have the cable to hook the SB controller to the PC. I do not have a Logic analyser..

Hello everyone, some may be familiar with the 720p patches thread on the Emuxtras website. I want to make a thread here as well so they won't be lost. Many patches have been made(by various contributors) with many (near) perfect conversions. Some games require a 128MB or even a CPU modded Xbox, like the ones made by N64 Freak. But many also run on the a standard 64MB Xbox. IPS patches are really small (just a few KB's) and only contain the modified hex values and on what position in the binary they should be modified. You will need an application that can apply IPS patches if you want to use them. You can use Lunar IPS https://fusoya.eludevisibility.org/lips/ but there are also others. Because the patches are only a few KB's this means it is also a good candidate to patch them directly on the Xbox in XBMC. This is also why I have named the patches after the game ID's and denoted the target Xbox (64MB, 128MB CPU) to facilitate this. There is a project called python-ips( https://pypi.org/project/python-ips/) which runs on python version 2.7 (supported on XBMC) which seems to apply the patches correctly and can create backups. I might look into creating a XBMC python script that incorporates python-ips. But unfortunately I probably won't have too much time to do it and since I am unfamiliar with the XBMC specific syntax it will take a while. However if someone wants to pick this up before me than that is fine. This also goes for other making additional patches. Some of the better games that seem to run amazingly were made by Silverrock see videos of Doom 3 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MZf3CqUc_hs) and Darkwatch (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jhOPzUNW7Bo) I will add the patches here soon. You can check them out on Emuxtras if you want them now. here are some screenshots of some of the games.

Here is a step by step tutorial for making a high quality component cable using an Xbox 360 component cable and a standard original Xbox Composite AV cable that pretty much everyone will have. I was looking for an original Xbox component cable recently and my options were a cheap Chinese non brand component cable, a monster cable or an official HD kit. The latter being crazy expensive nowadays. Since I have a background in electronics I thought why not make one from a 360 cable if a standard AV cable has all the pins present but not wired. I did a quick Google and I am not the first to have done this but thought I'd throw up this step by step for anyone who isn't afraid of some small soldering. You could just splice a 360 component cable onto a Chinese component cable but this way you have a pretty much official cable that is very high quality.. Here goes. Get yourself a 360 component cable and a standard AV cable with the 3 RCA plugs, red, white and yellow. . Cut the head off your original Xbox AV cable. Take a hair dryer to it now to make the plastic sleeve malleable and remove the sleeve from around the socket. Use a screwdriver to help pry it off if needs be. It should come pretty easy but don't be too rough as we want to get it back on at the end. Now loosen off the clasps around the cable by prying them out with a screwdriver and then with a long nose pliers if needed. Again don't go too mad as we will need to squeeze these back on at the end. Now you should be able to remove half this casing. The socket itself with the pins will still be secured inside. Update: before opening the metal casing as per the following instructions and image you can actually remove the pin connector without opening it, you can push the pin connector out. This is the preferred method but I am leaving the previous instructions here. Now take a long nose pliers and carefully separate the remaining casing. Do this carefully and slowly just enough so you can remove the pin housing. The less you bend this the nicer it will look at the end. Take note of the way the two sides lock into each other. The little tabs click in from the top. So grab the side with the tab and pull up. So pull up the right hand side then turn it around and again pull up the right hand side. Patience, remember this has to go back together. Try to open this up less than I have here if you can. Don't worry about the black shield cables soldered on to the casing. We will be removing these anyway. Once you get the pins out if you're lucky you'll just have a piece of black tape over the pins. If you're unlucky you'll have a blob of hot glue over them both sides. Don't despair....you can get this off with some small effort. If you are met with the glue you can again soften it with a hair dryer and get a screwdriver and gouge the majority of it off carefully. I would then get some sticky stuff remover and spray it on and leave it for 5 minutes. Then carefully scrape lengthways down along each pin with the corner of your small flathead screwdriver until it is all gone. Take your time and make sure it's all off. This is the stuff I use for that. Here is the pins that the lucky people will get with the tape. Lovely clean pins straight from the factory. Now take your 360 component cable and cut the head off this just below it's socket and get the sleeve off your original Xbox socket and put it onto your 360 cable. Just keep turning it until it goes on. It's pretty much the exact fit. And a second time...PUT THE SLEEVE ON YOUR 360 CABLE BEFORE YOU START TO SOLDER!!! You do not want that sinking feeling when you've just done lots of tedious work to find you've to de-solder everything because you forgot to put the sleeve on. Now take a sharp knife and about 2 inches back from the end score a ring around the insulation. Take your time and bend it a bit and let the sharp knife do the work. Don't go mad here. You want all of the shields inside to be intact. Again. Patience. You'll be met with a load of cables with a braided shield around them. The cable with the colour is the signal every time and the shield wrapped around it is that signals ground. It is possible you could find two cables, a signal and ground both insulated and not braided shields. Either way it's the same thing and actually easier if you don't have the braided ones because the braids are trickier to solder because they are bigger. You will also have some white fibres up the middle. Cut these off. And an overall screen, the one that's on it's own. Don't cut this off. For each cable push the braid down a bit to loosen it and make a hole as near the base as you can by separating the braid and pull the coloured cable through. Then pull the braid and twist it nice and tight without breaking it. The idea is to get it as thin as you can. When you've separated each signal from it's screen measure it against the length of cable already soldered onto the original Xbox pins and give yourself a bit extra and cut them all. Strip the ends of each signal. Only about 3 or 4mm and be careful not to pull out strands while stripping the insulation. Make sure there are on stray strands by giving the ends a little twist and tin the ends and also tin about a half inch or so of each braided screen. Try keep them tight with no loose strands. To tin put a small bit of solder on your iron and use this to heat up the wire and flow the solder with the transferred heat of the wire, not the iron. This makes the strands basically into a solid cable. Now desolder all on the cables from your original Xbox pins. Also I highly recommend you use Weller solder or similar decent quality solder as it will make life easier than using cheap stuff. Now to the good stuff. I have taken this diagram from an online search and did not create it myself. It is the best diagram out there and credit to the Creator. I will find the name of the guy on YouTube that has done this and credit him. So you have already tinned your cable ends and braided screens. Now you want to go and tin each pin you will be using. Just a tiny bit of solder and heat the pin for a second. Do not stay on the pins with your iron for anything over 2 seconds or you'll melt plastic. Take your time. Everything one by one. When you've tinned all the pins all you need to do for every solder joint is put a tiny bit on your iron and press down gently and the tinned cable will marry into the tinned pin. Do not use extra solder, no need. The tiny bit I suggest for your iron is simply to transfer the heat. Go ahead and tin pins 1, 2, 6, 7, 9, 10, 11, 12, 14, 15, 18, 19, 21 and 22. That is for audio right and left signals and grounds, two jumpers for the mode and red, green and blue signal and grounds. To note the connector I've used here is one that was covered in hot glue so it looks a bit bashed up but is electrically sound. Audio right - red to pin 1 and it's ground to pin 2. Also make 2 small jumper wires and tin them as previously. Solder these as shown to pins 6 and 7. Bend the jumper wires around to the other side and solder pin 6 jumper to pin 18 and pin 7 jumper to pin 19. Ignore that strand to the right, that is the overall screen and it's not soldered to a pin, just a bad picture. Blue signal to 9 and it's ground to 10. Green signal to 11 and it's ground to 12. Audio left - white signal to 14 and it's ground to 15. Be careful that you don't mix up the pink with the white, they look very very similar. Last but not least the pink signal wire to 22 and it's ground to 21. Careful with this one. All the rest were 'signal, ground' and this one is 'ground, signal'. Tape up the yellow cable. Nice to have a spare socket at the end of your cable so you can fix this in years to come if one of the rca plugs every gets broken you can solder the yellow up instead. Take the yellows ground and twist the thin overall ground wire around it. Bend it as shown and then tin them together with some solder. We will use this to ground the metal housing on the plug. Scratch up this part on the plug housing with a screwdriver. Now turn your iron up a touch if needed and flow solder onto the part you just scratched up. Solder the screen from the yellow that we tinned together with the overall screen to this part of the case. Cut a strip of electrical tape. The width of standard electrical tape is perfect to cover the pins. I recommend you do this instead of hot glue to insulate the pins. At this point plug it in to your OGXbox and see does it all look good. (Troubleshooting tips at the bottom of this post if it doesn't look quite right) Put this guy back into the other part on the plugs housing and carefully crimp back on the cable grips after around the outer insulation. If you were careful taking apart your plug top earlier you will be happy right about now. If you weren't don't worry, just get a long nose pliers and carefully form it all back together. Remember these tabs click in from the top. They won't sit right if you try click them in from the under side so you'll have to do a touch of light convincing with a long nose pliers again. Be careful of the pins inside now. Don't want to break it now after all of that. Don't lose the cool once they are almost snug you can put a bit of pressure on the tabs with a screwdriver to secure the housing. Once it is fairly solid slide your sleeve back down to cover it up. Now what you have is a top quality fully Microsoft component cable for your OGXbox. In my opinion it's better quality by a mile than the old HD kit and and the monster cable. It's also two fingers up to the cretins that want 70 quid for a cable. You'll get a brand new 360 component cable for around the price of one of those horrendous terribly shielded Chinese component cables and everyone has an AV composite 3 plug standard cable lying around. Also the 360 cable is about 2 metres long. Hope this is of some use to someone. I originally threw a few of them pictures up on the Facebook group but thought I'd post it up here as a reference for anyone who is interested. TROUBLESHOOTING: When you have finished soldering all of the pins do a continuity test with your multi-meter between each pin that are next to each other, You may have one strand from the shield bridging the pin next to it. If this is the case you can try run a sharp knife between the pins to separate any stray strands. A quick multi-meter test is to test between each tip of each RCA plug to the pin you soldered for that signal on the plug. Also check the tip of each against ground (outer ring or barrel the of RCA) make sure there is nothing bridged out. Note that all ground will be connected together. If you plug it in to your OGXbox and it doesn't look right, go back and check each cable you soldered against the diagram again and if needs be reflow any dodgy joints. If you plug it in to your OGXbox and you are missing a colour again go back and check your wiring/soldering. The colours are RGB (Red = Pink cable, Green = Green cable, Blue = Blue cable) For example if you see only Greens and Blues when you load up a game the issue is with your Red colour (Pink cable) and you may have mixed up the ground and signal. The same is true for any colour you seem to be missing. Also do a test of the Audio Right and Left by plugging one out at a time and see do you still have sound. Any issues, the fix will be as above, re-check your wiring against the diagram and re-flow if necessary. Try the cable with a game you know well so you know how it should look colour wise. If it all looks and sounds good close it all back up and enjoy!! Note also that there is a perfectly good optical audio pcb inside the Xbox 360 head, maybe someone could have a go getting that usable. You can also connect the yellow to pin 24 and it's ground to 23 instead of connecting ground to the overall screen and leaving yellow spare. I rather keep it as a spare, means your cable will last long into the future and I don't ever plan on using it as a regular yellow, red and white composite.

hey come to the chat scar and me could help

Hey everyone if any of you have mod chip pdf file format or really any format please let me know and send me a link to download them.

disable the fast game loading in the skin settings toggles

well you can find all of the help you need here

Basically 2 x of this: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/New-Pro-Micro-for-arduino-ATmega32U4-5V-16MHz-Module-with-2-row-pin-header-For-Leonardo/32768308647.html Edit: and program them with the instructions here: https://github.com/Ryzee119/ogx360/tree/master/Firmware

You can just use XBlast OS to flash a new BIOS. No reason to burn more DVDs and have numerous versions of HeXEn. Copy the XBlast OS application to the HDD (latest version is v0.56) and put your desired BIOS file in C:\BIOS. XBlast OS is the best tool for flashing and is a lot cleaner than HeXEn.

Hehe .. Maybe it came out wrong, but I ment that as a message to the general public. If you have any other hdd game fixes, then please share.

Kaosengineer: There is a problem with the fix you have. Half of the default.xbe is zerofilled. Get the one supplied by Sifaw99, it works. :)

Small file, 1.37 MB (1,447,712 bytes), so I just attached it. Attachment removed. Didn't find the other game's fix, yet! Update: I removed the attachment. It was not working. Not sure why as the CRC checksum in the included SFV file matched that of the zip file inside.

Hold the White button down after powering on the console. Wait for the X3 Config Live menu to appear. What X3 BIOS version is installed? Build 3294 is the latest released by Team Xecuter. There's also a newer version of Avalaunch dashboard 0.49.3. There are also other replacement dashboards available - the latest versions of each being: UnleashX 0.39.0528A Build 584, Evoxdash v+3935, XBMC4Xbox v3.5.3 (Xbox Media Center), and XBMC-emustation. There are others but these are some of the most popular.

Some skins I came across on a box when repairing. Thought I would share as these are not on the Slayers Auto Installer Skin.rar Just FYI there seem to be alot of adult skins

I have a LPC Rebuild Board called the OXC LPCorrectr. I have included the files needed to have it made and it’s completely open sourced. .6 thick OXC_LPCorrector_v2.zip

Thanks Champ71! Glad it's working well for you So I think I know what you mean. Basically if the wireless controller is not synced, the ogx360 USB hardware is disabled, so if you splice the arduino module into the back of the controller port somehow without impacting the wires going to the xbox motherboard, you can still just plug a controller into the controller port as you normally would provided the wireless controller is turned off. I wasn't 100% sure this would work, but I just did some testing and it works fine

So I've had a modded Xbox original for a few years now, and I just got around to using it again. Thanks to this forum it's running much stronger. Upgraded to the Startech SATA adapter, changed to an 80wire IDE cable (not pictured) and then moved over to a TSOP flash instead of a softmod.

You can add this by download manually ADDONS in kodi site, FTP them and install them by using SCRIPT ADDONS4XBOX Or you can add kodi repository in your xbmc4xbox, and download ADDONS direct in your xbox. like kodi.

Not that I know of, https://archive.org/details/classicpcgames has demos of all the games from 1998/2001 that could work.

Download Direct hère (Google Drive): https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&confirm=VoMt&id=0Bzg3fwdHlmArNFJIdmVZQU5TUE0

yea true but if you want to keep it all xecuter too that is another factor of getting a x3adapter

Ordered Sent from my 16th using Tapatalk

thanks for your hard work! much apprecited

NO its jokes lol