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Found 6 results

  1. Hard drive activity on the eject button led. To do that mod you don’t need an LED since we make use of the LED on the eject botton which give us a nice and clean look. Each time the hard drive read or write data, the orange (or “amber” if you prefer) led lights up and that will make you happy (Note: This just works for a man, not woman!). So what do we need: Wire. 30 AWG works for me. 10K resistor. Small piece heat shrink. Solder, Iron, Flux, IPA. Super duper glue or your hot glue gun. Optional : A beer a cup of coffee or tee. At this time you can choose the last time by your self until the tutorial is done! Ok, lets start by tear down your x-box like you normaly do and put the mainboard with the bottom side up in front you. The back ports should be facing upwards. When you have an v1.0 to v1.4 you should search for the resistor R3V2 (The v1.5 unicorne should have it one the same place, I guess). For v1.6 or v1.6b search for the resistor R3V3. (Yap, they are both on the same spot and do the same but M$ choose to lable those differently.) So when you have found the resistor, solder one end of the wire to the left side of the resistor. Now that this is done aim for the IDE connector. Measure how much wire you need to get to the IDE pin shown in the Picture (Don`t forget the length of your resistor.). It’s the first pin on the left side on top of the connector. Now solder your 10K resitor to the other end of the wire and put some heat shrink on it. Last but not least solder the end of the resitor to the IDE pin. Now it’ s time to put back together your x-box and test your new mod, of which, you can be unbelievably proud of– in case you didn't screw it up somewhere… like me on the 1.6 because I wasn’t aware that MS choose to lable the resistors wrong (remember?). But thats there fault and not mine so let us blame them for that! Still reading? Why? You have reached the end of, what ever you wanna call it, and can now make your own decisions again! (Except you have a wife/girlfriend, then you’re totally screwed cuz it’s on her to make decisions for you!). For real. I hope you had fun with this and you enjoy your new little mod. I’m out. PS. You found typos or i miss spelled something? See, you got that on top without a tip!
  2. Hi The other day I grabbed my console from my loft, it's a 1.1 with a Samsung Drive, fitted with an X2 chip from back in the day. Before switching it on I had it apart and removed the clock cap, I cleaned up the area and couldn't see damage apart from to one of the unused VIAs under the cap (it looks like it's designed to allow a different sized cap in this spot right?). I did a visual inspection of the other caps and couldn't see any bulges or obvious leaks. I don't know which version BIOS is on the X2, looking around the HDD it's likely 5031 or 5035, and it's got an EvoX dash on it, I found a Slayers 2.7 disc so I'm guessing I used this. Now the actual problem! The tray keeps ejecting whilst I'm sat on the dash. It ejects, I close it and the dash reports INIT in the disc status, i hear it trying to read and then it gives up and ejects again, then goes around in a loop. I had to goto work then, so switched it all off and left it. Returned from work later and try again. This time whilst it was doing the eject, init, eject ini loop I was searching for solutions and trying it with the X2 disabled and enabled. Finally the tray stays shut. I launch a game off of the HDD and it's fine. Booted my Slayers disc and it was fine. Search results were saying that Samsung have tray getting stuck issues normally. Check for things obstructing in the drive and give it a grease. Other results were saying that the clock cap could have caused some damage that relates to this (but that also depends on mobo version). I'm leaving it off again now, to see if it misbehaves after cooling down again (which is what happened earlier), and then I'll be pulling it apart again to have another look. I'm a bit gutted that I ordered a bunch of Cap Kits from Console5 last week for other machines but wasn't thinking about the old xbox at the time. Ordering just the xbox kit will cost more in shipping (to the UK) than the caps and be slow at the moment. I'll have to look for a UK supplier or stop being lazy and buy the individual caps! Can anyone advise on what is most likely out of the causes I mention, or even if there's more things to look at ta Pete
  3. Hi, One of my console with a v1.4 motherboard (it have a golden clock capacitor that I don’t have removed) suddenly didn’t work. It worked fine but now It have a solid Green light (no frag) with no eject dvd drive, no video and no sound. I’ve tried with 2 différent AV câbles that works fine on my others consoles. Is someone have any issue please ? This console have never been hardmodded, only softmodded.
  4. my eject and power button led's will not power on ive tried many panels and still nothing they both work and my xbox is tsop flashed and its a version 1.0..
  5. Custom Red LED controller Ports with matching Red LED Power/Eject Board. Comes with lifetime warranty. If one ever fails I will replace it for free minus the shipping cost. These are very bright and match 100% although the picture kinda takes away from how deep red these really are. $24.99 Shipped anywhere in the lower 48. Can ship worldwide. Other colors available: Blue, Green, White, Purple, Orange, Red Any questions, simply shoot me a message! Thanks guys!
  6. My XBOX turns on and works but the green light around the eject button does not come on. The system is a 1.0 version and has been successfully Tsoped. A red light comes on around the eject button when booting with the Helen 2017 disk, but I don’t ever get a green light under normal operation. Any idea what would cause this or how I can fix it? Thanks.

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Board startup date: April 23, 2017 12:45:48
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