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About mmmonkey

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  1. Lovely, cheers for the info and help everyone. I'll hopefully get to have a tinker over the next couple of days.
  2. Ha - that's pretty funny if that works - I always look for the most convoluted solution first. I can't try it right now but does an IGR not cut power to the controller ports (I'm using a USB adapter to get power for the WiFi bridge. @SS_Dave - I'm running a 1.1
  3. Good plan. I can put another Dash on there and then switch from one to the other. I only need to use it this way on the odd occasion when not playing on the main TV - I have wired network available there. I'm assuming it's possible to setup a manual link to another XBE file from within XBMC4Gamers to something like EvoX (what I'm used to and if I remember correctly quite simple to put a manual item on to XBMC4Gamers (can't remember if I put in in E:\Apps\XB... or just E:\XB... so it might not get picked up automatically).
  4. I’m still getting to grips with using the og Xbox in 2020, well setting it up. I’ve got a USB powered WiFi bridge that plugs into the Ethernet port, and is powered directly from the console. But the console starts up quicker than the the bridge can connect. Is there an option I’m missing that will force XBMC4Gamers to check the network again and then it’ll get an IP address? Ta Pete
  5. Thanks for this. Should help me setup a new HDD nice and cleanly. From that description Hexen sounds like a pain in the rear Pete
  6. Excellent stuff, thank you. Checked today and no trace damage as per that guide, nor anywhere else I could see. took the drive apart and cleaned it up, all put back together now and seemingly fine. Pete
  7. Nice, thank you for the info. I’ve only just noticed ref to 06 and 67, is that regards to what partitioning/size is supported on the drive? 67 does a G drive which takes up the remainder of the disk?
  8. Well I didn’t have a chance to try it for over 24hrs. Switched it on and it behaved perfectly normal! I hate randomness like that. I’ll pull it apart regardless and check the traces and the drive anyway, just as general maintenance. i doubt I’ll be using the drive anyway, just ordered the Startech SATA for it and will put games on a larger HDD for playing anyway. So if the drive plays up, it’s just a case of disconnecting it and using a BIOS that allows it to boot without a drive right?
  9. Cool thank you. Couple of things to check this week Pete
  10. Hi The other day I grabbed my console from my loft, it's a 1.1 with a Samsung Drive, fitted with an X2 chip from back in the day. Before switching it on I had it apart and removed the clock cap, I cleaned up the area and couldn't see damage apart from to one of the unused VIAs under the cap (it looks like it's designed to allow a different sized cap in this spot right?). I did a visual inspection of the other caps and couldn't see any bulges or obvious leaks. I don't know which version BIOS is on the X2, looking around the HDD it's likely 5031 or 5035, and it's got an EvoX dash on it, I found a Slayers 2.7 disc so I'm guessing I used this. Now the actual problem! The tray keeps ejecting whilst I'm sat on the dash. It ejects, I close it and the dash reports INIT in the disc status, i hear it trying to read and then it gives up and ejects again, then goes around in a loop. I had to goto work then, so switched it all off and left it. Returned from work later and try again. This time whilst it was doing the eject, init, eject ini loop I was searching for solutions and trying it with the X2 disabled and enabled. Finally the tray stays shut. I launch a game off of the HDD and it's fine. Booted my Slayers disc and it was fine. Search results were saying that Samsung have tray getting stuck issues normally. Check for things obstructing in the drive and give it a grease. Other results were saying that the clock cap could have caused some damage that relates to this (but that also depends on mobo version). I'm leaving it off again now, to see if it misbehaves after cooling down again (which is what happened earlier), and then I'll be pulling it apart again to have another look. I'm a bit gutted that I ordered a bunch of Cap Kits from Console5 last week for other machines but wasn't thinking about the old xbox at the time. Ordering just the xbox kit will cost more in shipping (to the UK) than the caps and be slow at the moment. I'll have to look for a UK supplier or stop being lazy and buy the individual caps! Can anyone advise on what is most likely out of the causes I mention, or even if there's more things to look at ta Pete
  11. Clock cap removed and funk cleaned up then saw the shocking job I did at fitting a chip 15+ years ago, wow. First time I’ve revisited one of my early mods. D0 always used to take me a long time, but this one looked good - it was the amount of flux I left behind in the pin header I put in the LPC holes which shocked me. Somehow I thought managed to chip a PS2 after this, lord knows what that looks like now.
  12. Cheers Man, things have come on in leaps and bounds since I used to chip a couple of consoles for mates. Today will be removing the clock cap (maybe cleaning) and testing. Then for the next week or so looking at what HDD to fit, getting the SATA adapter. Don’t remember if I have a 1.0 or 1.1. Hopefully 1.1 so one less fan to make a noise right? Not worried about TSOP flashing. Pete
  13. Just recently picked up a couple of CRT TVs for some vintage gaming, and plan on getting my old console out of the loft and tarting it up, maybe even pickup a Crystal Xbox just for the case. Lots of great info to read on here! Pete

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