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Anyone have a top and dvd bezel for a Halo Edition Console let me know. Need 1 to complete a set.

Hello guys, I've tried to search for that kind topic, but did not find any similar. As I recently got my og xbox (already modded), I am not very familiar with all the option of this mod. My main question is - Is it possible to change modded xbox dashboard skin to original green one (like from the factory)? But to keep all the modded xbox perks like 720p+ resolution, hdd saved games etc. Basically just change the look of dashboard, cuz i dont really like that modded look

Hey guys, Bought a second hand xbox that came hard modded with a sst 49lf020. Seems this xbox hasn't been used in a while as some of the apps are a couple of revisions behind. Should I wipe it clean and start again? Should I buy a different modchip? Attached an image below of the details from EvoX.

Hey guys, my softmodded 1.6 box with a SATA adapter in it is taking a while to boot up and I'm wondering if the drive is on its way out. I'd like to be able to clone the drive to a SATA SSD I have lying around but every drive cloning tutorial I see out there involves hotswapping an IDE drive. How would I accomplish this?

Hey, I have installed the chip successfully and flashed the M8plus16 bios to the 256k slot but my DVD drive is toast and wont read my setup dvd (I tried tweaking the pot in stages all the way down to 500 ohms but nothing). I have installed and formatted a new harddrive within Xblast but is there a way to install a dashboard without a dvd drive? Is there a Bios with a built in FTP server for example? Thanks!

I haven't really been able to find a ton of info on the communicator, I am curious about it though. It would be nice to have a way to hook up the Xbox to a modern gaming headset, through a combination of Toslink and an AUX jack maybe, ideally without having it plugged into the controller you're using. I'm assuming this is an analog/digital converter and that a simple AUX to USB adapter couldn't replace this thing.

As the title suggests, this is a collection of mods for the Xbox version of GTA: Vice City. The aim of this mod was to fix a couple of bugs, to make what I feel are improvements to the game's overall presentation, and to provide a fresh, new visual experience for the same Vice City you know and love, while still maintaining what made the atmopshere and feel of the 1980s American beach city setting so enjoyable. Retaining immersion was also important. If it couldn't have existed in 1986, you won't find it here. Performance was also a key focus. While the Xbox version of Vice City is capable of displaying larger textures just fine, the texture work here was (mostly with very few exceptions) kept at the same resolution with the same compression method as the original textures, because you will run into performance issues, namely regarding pop-in, textures failing to load properly, and frame rate hiccups if you do decide to go with larger textures. In my testing, this wasn't something immediately noticeable in the early stages of the game. It only really becomes an issue when you're driving back and forth between the two islands, particularly late game when you own a lot of properties. This modification performs just as well as the original release from beginning to end. It is recommended that you play this mod in WIDESCREEN with TRAILS OFF. New Roads: Original textures replaced with textures made from real images of Miami roads. This solves the issue of the blurry roads in the original release and generally looks better all around. Sidewalks replaced as well. New particle effects: Particle effects replaced with more realistic representations. GTA III's Liberty City holdover leaves that once scattered the ground have been replaced with palm leaves, much like they appear in the PS2 version. This one small change in particular has a surprisingly large effect on the atmosphere of the world. New Duds: New Miami Vice inspired suits for Tommy and Lance. Most outfits have been changed. From pallette swaps to complete replacements, the new outfits fit the game's world while simultaneously referencing various films, TV shows, and video games along the way. Each outfit functions in cutscenes as well. New timecycle: More colorful days and darker nights. Nights actually feel like night time now. Make the neon of Vice City shine brighter than ever against these blackened night skies, and enjoy beautiful sunsets and sunrises. Fits the beach weather perfectly and looks great with the Xbox version's unique lighting system. New foliage: Fuller and more colorful foliage textures make Vice City come alive. The Xbox version has always had inferior foliage to the PS2 version, this fixes that issue. Bug fixes: PS2 animations, including idle animations missing from the Xbox release, have been restored. Tommy now gives an "up yours" gesture with his arms instead of flipping a nonexistent finger (another GTA III holdover) when standing in front of traffic. A bug preventing the acquisition of the Havana outfit after completing certain missions has been fixed, it is always accessible after having been unlocked now. The brass knuckles have been resized to not look so outlandishly large. Aiming sites for weapons like assault and sniper rifles have been adjusted to display correctly in widescreen mode. This means they display incorrectly in 4:3 mode, however. New animations: A few improved animation replacements for Tommy. He runs with single handed and two handed weapons in a more believable way now. Walking, idles, sprinting, and just about everything else has been kept vanilla for the sake of familiar game feel. Tommy still sprints as fast as he always has - something that's typically changed for the worse with animation mods. Female character models no longer dislocate their hips as they walk. Peds overall have new animation. They all walk a little slower now than before, but their animations look less rubbery. New pedestrians: About 85% of peds replaced with their VCS counterparts. These pedestrians are higher quality than the ones found in the original release of Vice City. Better quality texture work, more colorful outfits, and more diverse models. New surprises: I've thrown in a number of retextured areas and objects throughout the game. From small world objects to interiors, there's a number of new things to see for returning veterans. New weapon: The Ruger has been replaced with an AK-47. New HUD: The radar ring has been replaced with a new, original ring. Icons on the main HUD, map icons, and weapon icons have been replaced with their 10th Anniversary counterparts. The pause screen map has been replaced with the 10th Anniversary map. New text: A few lines in the game's american.gxt file have been modified to reflect some of the changes this modification brings. Mostly in terms of outfit and weapon names. Download INSTALLATION: 1. Extract folders to any directory of your choosing 2. FTP all folders from the archive into your GTA: Vice City root folder on your Xbox, choose to overwrite files in the process. 3. IMPORTANT: Delete GTA_VC.CAP.Final file from your GTA: Vice City root folder if it exists 4. Clear your Xbox's cache and start the game 5. Have fun There shouldn't be any issues with running this mod on existing save files. Feel free to report any bugs you see. What I'd like to change in the future: Improve widescreen mode from the existing pan 'n scan implementation Fix the alpha render state for the target lock and sniper dot

Good afternoon all i have just upgrade the RAM to 128MB on my 1.2 Xbox and came across a YouTube video sega chihiro games can play on a upgrade Xbox anyone have a tutorial on how to do this?

I wouldn't consider this necessarily a mod as much as a repair but I wanted to talk about how when I was 14 and had absolutely no clue how anything on an xbox worked, I replaced the laser on my disc drive in an xbox that was completely stock (at the time). Now I don't know if I actually fixed the problem but it sure seems like it. At one point I stopped being able to load games from the drive, no games worked except for some reason the JSRF/SEGA GT 2002 game worked every time that originally came with the system. So at the time, all I could think was that the laser was bad and that the only option was to replace it. So I went to Ebay and searched for an original xbox laser and sure enough found one for I believe around $15USD. I swapped it into my drive and its been loading games perfectly fine since. Only I don't know if that affected its ability to read other disc types. In any case, I've read everywhere, for the most part, that people who have dead drives have no choice but to go buy another xbox that still has one working. So the conclusion I am coming to is, why have I not seen anyone mention buying a replacement laser? Did I just happen to find one or did it not occur to anyone that you could potentially just replace the laser? Was just one of my thoughts I've had for several years and just wanted to share and see what other people thought or know about replacing just the laser.

Hi, I have a problem with starting XBOX. When I press power, nothing happens, only a hissing sound and a "knock" emanating from the console, as if from the power supply, (something like the console board wanted to turn on but could not). No picture and no errors led on the console. Please advise what can cause this, I will add that the 1.4 board is in very good condition, there are no loose capacitors, the paths are intact and in very good condition. The power supply is checked and working. I changed the console TSOP, ver ind-bios 5003 and it worked for 2 weeks without any problems. Please help.

I bought an xbox on ebay and now I noticed somethings I didn't before. Can anyone identify what is in the picture. I appoligize If this is in the wrong category this is my first post. In the first picture it is those 2 dots next to the disc tray. In the second picture it's the blue output. And in the third there appears to be something coming out of the controller. Also this was advertised as an xecuter 2 mod chipped xbox, and I paid $90.

Hello, my name is Carlos, I have an original xbox, I am connecting it by the eject button, because the power button is not working, when analyzing the tracks under the board I did not find corrosion, could someone please provide me with the scheme for measuring the points contact of the four tracks? so I can really check if they are broken.

Just thought I would start this thread as a kinda fun thing. Given most of us have modded Xboxes, got me wondering what people are doing thats technically not modding, or using it in a way the thing supposed to be. To this end I bring you The OGXbox door stop This is a limited edition, they only made one in clear as far as I know. Seriously when we have the doors and windows open in the house in the summer the near constant breeze always finds the doors and slams them shut. Doorstops are not great in our house as between pets and children they just disappear. So what better than a heavy old OGXbox to stop the door open. Yes in the UK we have so many Clear boxes we are tripping over them.

Hello all, I have a spare XBox, chip and HDD selling as a mod "kit" I just don't have the time or need for it now... This is a 1.6 XBox in working condition. The case has 2 very small marks on it - pictures of all this can be provided based on interest. I have an LPC rebuild board, an XBlast Aladdin2 chip originally bought from Retrogamerstuff and a WD 500GB HDD that has been unlocked and was previously used in another modded console - it still has EMUS, APPS and ROMS and stuff already installed. I can include a composite cable too, but no power cord. The consoles seem to sell between £30 and £50 the chips at £16 and the drives around £15 although I'm sure I paid a bit more as I bought NOS, anyway that would be £61 - £71. Selling here for £55 not including postage within the UK. Fire a message or reply if you are interested or have any questions, I can provide pictures too. Cheers!

Long time Xbox owner... recently decided to get the Xbox out of storage... It was pretty mint when put away. Got it out and the Samsung drive seems to have stopped reading discs while it was packed away. How that happens I don't understand but .. I'm here as part of the rediscovering OG Xbox journey.

https://github.com/gaasedelen/titan#overview Overview Titan is a series of hand-written binary patches for the original Microsoft Xbox kernel. These patches are designed to expand the storage capabilities of the popular 2001 game console in excess of 16TB. This is achieved by modifying the kernel to support LBA48 and extending the number of addressable 512-byte disk sectors in the IO stack. Special thanks to Mike Davis for his serial debugging boards, Matt Borgerson for his tireless efforts on XEMU & FATX, and finally Paul Bartholomew (oz_paulb) for his original LBA48 research from 2003 which facilitated up to 2TB for the past 15+ years. All of these people and their open-source works played an important role in the creation of Titan. Disclaimer This project does NOT use any copyrighted code, or help circumvent security mechanisms of an Xbox console. These patches should be considered highly experimental pending further attestation. By using this software, you accept the risk of experiencing total loss or destruction of data on the console in question. Titan may break existing Xbox homebrew, and existing homebrew may break Titan-based systems. Usage Titan's PC-based kernel patcher is written in Python 3. It is strongly recommended that you download the released packages which bundle the applicable dependencies for Windows, Linux, and macOS. Example usage is provided below: python3 tpatch.py m8plus_kernel.img Successful output should look something like the following: [*] Patching with Titan v1.0 -- by Markus Gaasedelen [*] - Hashing kernel 'C:\titan\m8plus_kernel.img' to ensure compatibility [*] - 0x800243AA: Patching HddStartVerify(...) [*] - 0x8002443F: Patching HddVerify(...) [*] - 0x800244E6: Patching HddStartRw_Length(...) [*] - 0x80024534: Patching HddStartRw_Transfer(...) [*] - 0x80024632: Patching HddRw_Save(...) [*] - 0x8002465B: Patching HddRw_Smuggle(...) [*] - 0x80024485: Patching HddCompleteRw(...) [*] - 0x800246F3: Patching HddGetDriveGeometry(...) [*] - 0x8002F066: Patching HddPartitionCreate(...) [*] - 0x80024B5A: Patching HddCreateQuick(...) [*] - 0x8005546D: Patching HddCreate(...) [*] - 0x80027143: Patching FatxParseSupeblock(...) [*] - 0x80029CE5: Patching FatxStartAsyncIo(...) [*] - 0x80029E5B: Patching FatxAsyncIo(...) [+] Patching successful! For a full walkthrough of setting up an Xbox with Titan, please refer to the GUIDE.md provided in this repo. Additional Notes Some additional notes about Titan are as follows: Formatting The FATX project is currently the only tested/supported method to format a disk for a Titan-based system XBPartitioner/XBlast/XeniumOS/FATXplorer are all considered unsupported and probably require updates I fully expect these tools to get updated releases in the near-future Partitions Titan is essentially hardcoded to use a 'F (Partition 6) Takes All'-esque partitioning scheme Titan could be extended to support additional partitions, but it seems unnecessary Clusters Titan allows increased cluster sizes of 128kb, 256kb and 512kb It is strongly recommended to format large disks (2TB+) with 1024 sectors per cluster (512kb) Matt's FATX is the only tool that can currently format disks with larger clusters Increased cluster sizes dramatically increases the speed of mounting FATX volumes (faster bootup) Increased cluster sizes will ensure more linear reads on the disk (faster file reads, game loading, etc.) Increased cluster sizes allows for more items in the root disk directory (8192 items at 512kb clusters) If you're using Titan, you can afford the luxury of bigger clusters so stop complaining about wasted space Increased cluster sizes were never the issue for limiting drive/partition sizes, this is FUD 64kb clusters should work on the Titan partition but bootup/mounting WILL be slow for large disks UDMA Titan can change the UDMA transfer mode used by the kernel with --udma N Increasing the UDMA mode has been profiled to improve some game load times in excess of 20% Increasing the UDMA mode will require an 80pin IDE cable The retail Xbox uses UDMA 2 (33mb/s) by default (as do many/all (?) modified BIOS') The maximum supported UDMA mode by the Xbox southbridge is UDMA 5 (100mb/s HDD <--> CPU) UDMA 5 DOES NOT WORK WITH ALL IDE TO SATA ADAPTERS UDMA 5 has been confirmed working with Startech adapters but has not been properly benchmarked UDMA 5 is unstable on RXD-629A7-7 based adapters, but UDMA 4 seems okay WLXKG-863B are the 'worst' adapters I have experienced working on Titan and are largely untested Games A random assortment of games have been tested to ensure some baseline on system stability I don't expect major issues here, but more testing should be obviously be done Dashboards XBMC seems to work fine EvoX seems to work fine EvoX displays the incorrect disk size because it performs a modulus of 'available gigabytes' by 1000 This does not mean that you formatted incorrectly, or that the HDD is corrupt FTP seems okay? Dashboard-based FTPs are probably much safer than BIOS-based FTP (eg. XeniumOS) Consider all other dashboards as untested Other Homebrew Notes DVD2Xbox works fine FTP via XeniumOS is probably risky. I would only use it to transfer files onto RETAIL partitions (C or E) Anything booting into a BFM BIOS (PBL, Hexen?) is totally unsupported for accessing the Titan partition (F) Consider all other homebrew as untested Patches Titan is only supported on the M8+ kernel. M8+ is a modified version of the final retail kernel (5838) Titan/M8+ can be used on ALL retail hardware revisions (1.0 -> 1.6b) These patches can almost certainly be ported to other Xbox kernels, but not something I plan on doing Previous iterations of these patches modified the kernel to use 4K sectors but was deemed unnecessary The released patches can be further simplified, moving away from the original 4K implementation More experimental patches that further accelerate mounting large FATX volumes may be added later

I am quite familiar with using fatxplorer for xbox 360. But i cant seem to get the og xbox partitions to show up in fatxplorer.

Moderator Edit: Hey all. Currently having issues with my xbox. Have opened it 3 times now to re-examine it, and I have NO idea what I need to do to get it to turn on again. Here's a video I made showing the mobo, and explaining everything I've done and checked. Please let me know what you think, I'd love to do whatever I can to avoid needing to buy another box. Literally any help at all is greatly appreciated, please let me know. I read around some more and I've read it Might be a blown transistor, (As this seems to be a common problem with 1.6 mobos, which I believe mine is, last time I checked. Was a couple years ago, tho I'm pretty confident it's a 1.6.) or that I might need to solder new capacitors, or new cable, etc. Man, I'm just wondering if these might just be too old to buy anymore. Seems like nowadays they just break out of nowhere, and no matter how many I buy and replace, they just break down anyways Any way to prevent that from happening? Is there any kind of scene out there to completely overhaul these things to make them actually last longer than a few years? Please let me know what I should do, and Thanks in advanced! Here's a video I recorded to showcase the issue I'm encountering: Not sure why the black background with black font color for the original text: <End Edit> Hey all. Currently having issues with my xbox. Have opened it 3 times now to re-examine it, and I have NO idea what I need to do to get it to turn on again. Here's a video I made showing the mobo, and explaining everything I've done and checked. Please let me know what you think, I'd love to do whatever I can to avoid needing to buy another box. Literally any help at all is greatly appreciated, please let me know. I read around some more and I've read it Might be a blown transistor, (As this seems to be a common problem with 1.6 mobos, which I believe mine is, last time I checked. Was a couple years ago, tho I'm pretty confident it's a 1.6.) or that I might need to solder new capacitors, or new cable, etc. Man, I'm just wondering if these might just be too old to buy anymore. Seems like nowadays they just break out of nowhere, and no matter how many I buy and replace, they just break down anyways Any way to prevent that from happening? Is there any kind of scene out there to completely overhaul these things to make them actually last longer than a few years? Please let me know what I should do, and Thanks in advanced! Here's a video I recorded to showcase the issue I'm encountering:

I hope someone can help, I am very new to this. I found my original xbox in the loft, when I boot it loads showing EvoX (pink logo) in the top left corner. It then seems to boot open the original dash. I heard the PAL system was locked so you couldn't access the HD scaling. Is there anything I can do to unlock the 720p / 1080i features to get better visuals on my 4k TV? I found a forum saying I could use a DVD and burn HeXEn bios onto it or something then run that in the Xbox to unlock the features? But when I tried to burn this to a DVD-RW it would not let me on my PC? Sorry, I know you probably get this a lot from newbies! Cheers.

Hi guys, first post, so take it easy on me lol Recently Got an OG Xbox, and as I'd had launch day Xbox blow up, I knew about the clock capacitor, (my old xecutor modded Xbox went with a pop adout 15 years ago ) Anyway, I'm rambling... I opened up this one to check/remove the cap, and it had already leaked, the Xbox was working before opened it, but the clock would not hold time.. the board looks pretty bad so I'm wondering if it's worth spending the time getting the new cap and fitting it.. I should also mention, that despite having a soldering iron, I'm a 100% noob... I'm sure I can replace the cap, but honestly, that's about the extent of my ability lol.. attached is a photo of the board, also, would an Xbox boot without the clock cap ? If so, I'll re assemble it and test it before I order the replacement cap.. treated the area with contact cleaner & a little wd40

Hello everyone! Obviously a little new here. Looking to get my 1.6 repaired if anyone can help me out. Basically, my son and I were playing a game and console completely turned off. Turned it back on and it immediately shut off. Tried again and it wouldn’t turn on anymore. Just a click. I ordered a new power supply thinking that may be the culprit, swapped it out and still nothing. Console is softmodded and has a larger HDD that I did myself about 6-7 years ago. I rarely play (have 2 kids under 5) but my autistic son is really into sonic (which is installed on the HDD). My original sega is in storage:( I also would have to look for the original HDD drive which is probably in storage as well since I haven’t had it in there for years. At this point I’m sure it’s a motherboard issue, but definitely want to get it working again. Anyhow, let me know what possible options are! Thanks again!

Hey guys, I've got a 1.2 that I spent the weekend revitalizing with all new fresh capacitors and upgrading the RAM to 128mb. Everything went well. I had Xblast reading all 128mb, and everything was working a treat. That is until I went to pull it apart for final disassembly to clean the case and everything up before putting all back together for the last time. I first removed the SATA/IDE adapter from the HDD, leaving the molex connector in place and holding it by the cables and moved the HDD tray out of the way. It was then, that I somehow managed to let the SATA/IDE adapter dangle enough for it to brush the PSU right along side the big 470uF 250v capacitor without realizing it. And in my excited haste, I had not yet disconnected the power cord from the Xbox... As soon as I saw the bright flash and pop that was the SATA adapter getting completely obliterated, my heart immediately sank. The adapter, of course, is thoroughly destroyed. The logic IC and one of the voltage regulators quite literally exploded. At that point, I knew I'd be extremely lucky if it was the only casualty. On the Xbox itself, it blew the T3.15A on the PSU. I had some spare 3 amp glass slow-blow fuses, so I rigged one up until I get the proper cylindrical fuse to replace it later this week. Surprisingly enough, the PSU still works fine, albeit with a slight discolored battle scar on side of the big capacitor... However the motherboard is a different story. It now 3 boot/FRAGs both with or without the X2.3b lite I've had installed for years present. Thinking I had fried it, not feeling too optimistic about fixing it, I harvested the newly installed RAM, and original RAM but subsequently reinstalled the original, after changing my mind on giving up so quickly. Anyway, I've tried all the troubleshooting methods I could with what tools I have at my disposal, which is not much. All the PSU voltages are good. I've swapped PSUs with another, just in case. One observation I made is that the MCPX X3 gets really hot very quickly, so I'm sort of thinking it's shorted and therefore also toast, and that's what's causing it to FRAG. In any case, I figured, maybe I'd share my story for your entertainment, and maybe even see if any of you had any suggestions on what else I might try to test before I go on the hunt for a replacement board and continue scavenging useful parts from this one.

special handling at 5:51

Hello, i got a new xbox, and i had a few issues with it just to establish some info: it's been staying in my appartment for about 2 years without even plugging it in, idk how much it stayed at the seller's place The sticker on the bottom (where the screws are) has not yet been broken The xbox uses the philips dvd drive It's from europe (PAL) So, it has been emmiting this quite high pitched sound constantly, it's not very loud but it still gives me headaches Also my custom CDs don't seem to work on it (xbox can't recognize disc), however i tried a few more official-ish discs and they worked Any tips?