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  1. Took me 2 days to get all the wiring right. for the wii2hdmi for og xbox modd ... using a wii2hdmi device ordered off eBay you can also find an Alibaba and other places like this. Very inexpensive around 5 Canadian dollars. You're also going to need some sort of a donor Xbox RCA wires or component wires in order to pull this off. There is 11 connections total five of which are ground I do not suggest not adding all the ground cuz could cause interference. Had pretty good luck I made to both of them are crystal clear with no interference. I tested on version 1.0 as well as version 1.4 turned out very good. I tried to look up and down online for some sort of schematic nothing appeared. There was one picture that was in Spanish but it was misleading I tried to look into it to find out who the original inventor was found the person at XB Classics a Brazilian site. After conversating with him he told me that he had better pictures but he would not share. Then I noticed a site that they has linked where they were selling these to the equivalent of 40 US dollars a piece so that is the reason the images that they uploaded are just there to confuse people. So that they cannot make it. Does not include audio left or right. And apparently La stands for 5 V? Don't ask me but that's what the guy told me makes no sense at all. I spent two days getting the wiring correct. I documented everything and put it on a YouTube video (link2come) was trying to figure out the best way to make this readily available for everybody in the world any Xbox Enthusiast should have a low cost HDMI adapter solution available to them this is where these schematics come in. Again I didn't notice any interference at all. Just a little bit in the Bios when only running 480 but there's not much you can do unless you re Flash the BIOS to force. I've noticed people in the group posting pictures not even having soldering skills and getting very good results from this method. In theory you can use this exact same adapter in order to have an internal HDMI solution. These images are water marked because these are going to be the only good images that are online and I seen the way XB classic does their water mark and it really bugs me that they did that so I wanted to make sure that everyone knows where it came from. That being said I'm Mister James Reid really helped me out with this he volunteered his services in order to take my hard copy drawings that were on paper and make it look something presentable. Which he did and he did a great job thank you very much James I did in fact alter the images to have the watermark across them. Sorry about that but I figured since I put in the work I deserve to have my name on it. If you have any questions please do not hesitate I do not check this site every day but I do come in from time to time. Thanks again and I hope people online can use this receive money from the big corporations like pounds and hyperkin charging ridiculous amounts of money for something so cheap... I've also got a lot of questions recently about people asking if this is any better than component. It uses the component wires in order to transfer the signal into HDMI. I'm not too technical with that end but when looking up the chip number on the actual board for the Wii to HDMI adapter I did notice in there schematics and their breakdown for the actual board they did mention that the video board that does the decoding actually does video on hand splint what kind of video enhancement I have no idea. But it should be an enhancement over component if they are speaking the truth. Anyway gentleman without further delay here are the schematics. I hope this hope somebody somewhere. Thank you very much Frank
  2. Here is a step by step tutorial for making a high quality component cable using an Xbox 360 component cable and a standard original Xbox Composite AV cable that pretty much everyone will have. I was looking for an original Xbox component cable recently and my options were a cheap Chinese non brand component cable, a monster cable or an official HD kit. The latter being crazy expensive nowadays. Since I have a background in electronics I thought why not make one from a 360 cable if a standard AV cable has all the pins present but not wired. I did a quick Google and I am not the first to have done this but thought I'd throw up this step by step for anyone who isn't afraid of some small soldering. You could just splice a 360 component cable onto a Chinese component cable but this way you have a pretty much official cable that is very high quality.. Here goes. Get yourself a 360 component cable and a standard AV cable with the 3 RCA plugs, red, white and yellow. . Cut the head off your original Xbox AV cable. Take a hair dryer to it now to make the plastic sleeve malleable and remove the sleeve from around the socket. Use a screwdriver to help pry it off if needs be. It should come pretty easy but don't be too rough as we want to get it back on at the end. Now loosen off the clasps around the cable by prying them out with a screwdriver and then with a long nose pliers if needed. Again don't go too mad as we will need to squeeze these back on at the end. Now you should be able to remove half this casing. The socket itself with the pins will still be secured inside. Update: before opening the metal casing as per the following instructions and image you can actually remove the pin connector without opening it, you can push the pin connector out. This is the preferred method but I am leaving the previous instructions here. Now take a long nose pliers and carefully separate the remaining casing. Do this carefully and slowly just enough so you can remove the pin housing. The less you bend this the nicer it will look at the end. Take note of the way the two sides lock into each other. The little tabs click in from the top. So grab the side with the tab and pull up. So pull up the right hand side then turn it around and again pull up the right hand side. Patience, remember this has to go back together. Try to open this up less than I have here if you can. Don't worry about the black shield cables soldered on to the casing. We will be removing these anyway. Once you get the pins out if you're lucky you'll just have a piece of black tape over the pins. If you're unlucky you'll have a blob of hot glue over them both sides. Don't despair....you can get this off with some small effort. If you are met with the glue you can again soften it with a hair dryer and get a screwdriver and gouge the majority of it off carefully. I would then get some sticky stuff remover and spray it on and leave it for 5 minutes. Then carefully scrape lengthways down along each pin with the corner of your small flathead screwdriver until it is all gone. Take your time and make sure it's all off. This is the stuff I use for that. Here is the pins that the lucky people will get with the tape. Lovely clean pins straight from the factory. Now take your 360 component cable and cut the head off this just below it's socket and get the sleeve off your original Xbox socket and put it onto your 360 cable. Just keep turning it until it goes on. It's pretty much the exact fit. And a second time...PUT THE SLEEVE ON YOUR 360 CABLE BEFORE YOU START TO SOLDER!!! You do not want that sinking feeling when you've just done lots of tedious work to find you've to de-solder everything because you forgot to put the sleeve on. Now take a sharp knife and about 2 inches back from the end score a ring around the insulation. Take your time and bend it a bit and let the sharp knife do the work. Don't go mad here. You want all of the shields inside to be intact. Again. Patience. You'll be met with a load of cables with a braided shield around them. The cable with the colour is the signal every time and the shield wrapped around it is that signals ground. It is possible you could find two cables, a signal and ground both insulated and not braided shields. Either way it's the same thing and actually easier if you don't have the braided ones because the braids are trickier to solder because they are bigger. You will also have some white fibres up the middle. Cut these off. And an overall screen, the one that's on it's own. Don't cut this off. For each cable push the braid down a bit to loosen it and make a hole as near the base as you can by separating the braid and pull the coloured cable through. Then pull the braid and twist it nice and tight without breaking it. The idea is to get it as thin as you can. When you've separated each signal from it's screen measure it against the length of cable already soldered onto the original Xbox pins and give yourself a bit extra and cut them all. Strip the ends of each signal. Only about 3 or 4mm and be careful not to pull out strands while stripping the insulation. Make sure there are on stray strands by giving the ends a little twist and tin the ends and also tin about a half inch or so of each braided screen. Try keep them tight with no loose strands. To tin put a small bit of solder on your iron and use this to heat up the wire and flow the solder with the transferred heat of the wire, not the iron. This makes the strands basically into a solid cable. Now desolder all on the cables from your original Xbox pins. Also I highly recommend you use Weller solder or similar decent quality solder as it will make life easier than using cheap stuff. Now to the good stuff. I have taken this diagram from an online search and did not create it myself. It is the best diagram out there and credit to the Creator. I will find the name of the guy on YouTube that has done this and credit him. So you have already tinned your cable ends and braided screens. Now you want to go and tin each pin you will be using. Just a tiny bit of solder and heat the pin for a second. Do not stay on the pins with your iron for anything over 2 seconds or you'll melt plastic. Take your time. Everything one by one. When you've tinned all the pins all you need to do for every solder joint is put a tiny bit on your iron and press down gently and the tinned cable will marry into the tinned pin. Do not use extra solder, no need. The tiny bit I suggest for your iron is simply to transfer the heat. Go ahead and tin pins 1, 2, 6, 7, 9, 10, 11, 12, 14, 15, 18, 19, 21 and 22. That is for audio right and left signals and grounds, two jumpers for the mode and red, green and blue signal and grounds. To note the connector I've used here is one that was covered in hot glue so it looks a bit bashed up but is electrically sound. Audio right - red to pin 1 and it's ground to pin 2. Also make 2 small jumper wires and tin them as previously. Solder these as shown to pins 6 and 7. Bend the jumper wires around to the other side and solder pin 6 jumper to pin 18 and pin 7 jumper to pin 19. Ignore that strand to the right, that is the overall screen and it's not soldered to a pin, just a bad picture. Blue signal to 9 and it's ground to 10. Green signal to 11 and it's ground to 12. Audio left - white signal to 14 and it's ground to 15. Be careful that you don't mix up the pink with the white, they look very very similar. Last but not least the pink signal wire to 22 and it's ground to 21. Careful with this one. All the rest were 'signal, ground' and this one is 'ground, signal'. Tape up the yellow cable. Nice to have a spare socket at the end of your cable so you can fix this in years to come if one of the rca plugs every gets broken you can solder the yellow up instead. Take the yellows ground and twist the thin overall ground wire around it. Bend it as shown and then tin them together with some solder. We will use this to ground the metal housing on the plug. Scratch up this part on the plug housing with a screwdriver. Now turn your iron up a touch if needed and flow solder onto the part you just scratched up. Solder the screen from the yellow that we tinned together with the overall screen to this part of the case. Cut a strip of electrical tape. The width of standard electrical tape is perfect to cover the pins. I recommend you do this instead of hot glue to insulate the pins. At this point plug it in to your OGXbox and see does it all look good. (Troubleshooting tips at the bottom of this post if it doesn't look quite right) Put this guy back into the other part on the plugs housing and carefully crimp back on the cable grips after around the outer insulation. If you were careful taking apart your plug top earlier you will be happy right about now. If you weren't don't worry, just get a long nose pliers and carefully form it all back together. Remember these tabs click in from the top. They won't sit right if you try click them in from the under side so you'll have to do a touch of light convincing with a long nose pliers again. Be careful of the pins inside now. Don't want to break it now after all of that. Don't lose the cool once they are almost snug you can put a bit of pressure on the tabs with a screwdriver to secure the housing. Once it is fairly solid slide your sleeve back down to cover it up. Now what you have is a top quality fully Microsoft component cable for your OGXbox. In my opinion it's better quality by a mile than the old HD kit and and the monster cable. It's also two fingers up to the cretins that want 70 quid for a cable. You'll get a brand new 360 component cable for around the price of one of those horrendous terribly shielded Chinese component cables and everyone has an AV composite 3 plug standard cable lying around. Also the 360 cable is about 2 metres long. Hope this is of some use to someone. I originally threw a few of them pictures up on the Facebook group but thought I'd post it up here as a reference for anyone who is interested. TROUBLESHOOTING: When you have finished soldering all of the pins do a continuity test with your multi-meter between each pin that are next to each other, You may have one strand from the shield bridging the pin next to it. If this is the case you can try run a sharp knife between the pins to separate any stray strands. A quick multi-meter test is to test between each tip of each RCA plug to the pin you soldered for that signal on the plug. Also check the tip of each against ground (outer ring or barrel the of RCA) make sure there is nothing bridged out. Note that all ground will be connected together. If you plug it in to your OGXbox and it doesn't look right, go back and check each cable you soldered against the diagram again and if needs be reflow any dodgy joints. If you plug it in to your OGXbox and you are missing a colour again go back and check your wiring/soldering. The colours are RGB (Red = Pink cable, Green = Green cable, Blue = Blue cable) For example if you see only Greens and Blues when you load up a game the issue is with your Red colour (Pink cable) and you may have mixed up the ground and signal. The same is true for any colour you seem to be missing. Also do a test of the Audio Right and Left by plugging one out at a time and see do you still have sound. Any issues, the fix will be as above, re-check your wiring against the diagram and re-flow if necessary. Try the cable with a game you know well so you know how it should look colour wise. If it all looks and sounds good close it all back up and enjoy!! Note also that there is a perfectly good optical audio pcb inside the Xbox 360 head, maybe someone could have a go getting that usable. You can also connect the yellow to pin 24 and it's ground to 23 instead of connecting ground to the overall screen and leaving yellow spare. I rather keep it as a spare, means your cable will last long into the future and I don't ever plan on using it as a regular yellow, red and white composite.
  3. I softmodded and then tsopped my original xbox. Before doing this I made a custom component cable which worked great with all my games and the stock dashboard. In one of the menu's during the softmod process the screen went crazy (kind of looks like a sink issue, the screen is squashed and scrolling across rapidly, impossible to tell what is on screen). I plugged in the composite cable and finished up the process and then TSOP'ed it. Now when I boot with the component cable the bios flubber animation works perfectly but the screen goes nuts when I get to unleasheX despite changing the video settings to NTSC-M, no to 480p-720p-1080i- enable pal, no to faster refresh rate. what could be causing this? EDIT: SOLUTION FOUND because the xbox restarts when video cable is reconnected I had to write down the button presses required to get to ms dashboard while using composite, then swith to component, follow the button presses, stock dashboard worked, go into settings and disable all high resolutions, and then restart. everythings fine now and I hope this helps others with the same issue
  4. Hey everyone, apologies if this is in the wrong place. I recently bought a component cable from eBay, the ones made from a 360 component cable and standard ogxbox composite. I downloaded enigmah-x and changed from pal to ntsc, enabled 480 and 720p. I plugged it in and there’s a weird green tint to everything. The Xbox splash screen seems ok (the evox logo doesn’t appear greener) but the xbmc menu does. Anybody have any ideas what could be causing this? The composite cable works fine. I even turned up the red setting on my tv but that just made everything orange. I love electronics, why don’t they feel the same? Why can’t I just blow into something and it work? I miss my nes. Thanks again, Rob
  5. I just resurrected a "for parts" xbox from ebay, and after replacing cpu caps, tsop flash etc, I was able to get it working. The issue I am having though is that the only cable that will work on it is my component cable. No other cable will work. I have tried both a third party AV cable and an original one, both do the same thing. I also have a xhox to hdmi dongle which will also not display any output on this xbox. Has anyone got any idea what is going on here?
  6. Are you looking for a digital optical cable? Here you will find everything you need. SF Cable's best-selling Digital Optical Cables are listed here. You can find a wide range of digital audio/video cables at discounted prices here. Order Online!
  7. Hi all I have a PAL mod chipped original Xbox with UnleashX dashboard and I'm using a component cable with NTSC enabled for 720P and they both work great together using component on my plasma TV but now I have an old CRT TV but the downside is it only has composite and scart so I would like to make a scart cable that plugs from my CRT TV that will have female RCA plugs on the other end so I can plug my component cable from the Xbox to this made scart cable, I would also use this scart cable to plug my PlayStation 2 into using a component cable. The question I have is because scart uses RGB do I simply wire the RGB red, green and blue from the scart "R,G,B input" to the corosponding red, green, blue of the component cable with the ground going to the ground pins of the RBG? And because the CRT TV I have upscales everything to 16:9 (it has no 4:3 capability) do I need to jumper pin 8 and 16 to make the switching mode to 16:9 as I run my Xbox at 720p with NTSC(U?) Will the jumper if needed at all for pin 8 to 16 need a resistor? Here's what I'm thinking for the male scart cable pinout: PIN of male scart: -to RCA 2 = Audio input R - to RCA Audio R 4 = Audio ground - to both RCA L&R 5 = Blue ground - to RCA blue ground 6 = Audio input L - to RCA audio L 7 = Blue - to RCA blue 8 = Status (16:9 linked to pin 16) 9 = Green ground - to RCA green ground 11 = Green - to RCA green 13 = Red ground - to RCA red ground 15 = Red - to RCA red 16 = RGB Status (linked to pin 8) the remaining pins are not used unless I missed something
  8. I made some homemade og xbox component cables using og xbox av cables and xbox 360 component cables. At first the homemade cables didn't work as I had read the diagram backward. Eventually it worked with what I assumed was fine colors until I took some comparison photos. Once going into xbmc, I noticed that colors were missing, specifically green and red. I've checked all the connections with a multimeter to make sure they go to the correct output. I also checked with a multimeter to make sure nothing was bridged. Everything appears "fine". https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1p4oX9jJtl0ok6f0cWt4hHe7HL04pc1k8?usp=sharing That's some photos showing a comparison photo of my pound hdmi vs my homemade component cables and the connector itself for the component cables. Any advice on what could be happening would be appreciated. edit: Everything is ntsc, incase that's relevant information
  9. I've TSOP modded around 6 OG Xboxes. One of the last 2 I worked on, had no composite video output, though audio works and using my component cables worked too. I mod these and and refurbish to the best of my ability and surprisingly the few I've sold have done well and the people are very happy with them. The component on L4A1 is physically damaged on mine. Here's a photo for reference of what one looks like. This is not mine. I can get an actual photo of mine if necessary... Maybe I damaged mine when removing the mobo to clean everything and solder the TSOP joints? who knows. It's damaged. It looks like the top is sheared right off and still hanging there attached off to the side. I'm guessing this is the culprit of my lack of composite. I wouldn't want to sell one with composite cables that doesn't do composite output... I think I should fix this and include the stock cables and they can decide if they want to use an HDMI adapter or not. My question is, where can I buy this component? I found a few threads here discussing it, but never where to get one. Do I need to steal it from a parts console? Secondly, if I do NOT fix this and sell it including an HDMI adapter, will that work just like my component cables are working? For reference, here are some threads discussing this component.
  10. I have a wierd issue with one of my Xbox consoles. It's a 1.6 softmod, I purchased it pre-modded and it came with 'Slayer's custom' softmod installed. Recently I've been having an issue with a couple of PAL games running too fast in NTSC mode, Crash Bandicoot: The Wrath of Cortex and Timesplitters 2. I've never has this problem with these games before, so I tried changing the video from NTSC 480p to PAL 480i but the console seems to be stuck in 480p mode, even though in video settings it's unticked. If I plug in an RGB SCART cable this does force the console to output at 480i and the games no longer run fast, but when I plug my component cable back in the console remains stuck in 480p. Does anyone know what might be causing this? I'm wondering if I should reinstall the soft mod, I have Rocky5 softmod disc burned but i'm not sure if this would mess things up as a different softmod is already installed?
  11. Hey all, This might be a foolish thought, but would it be possible to create an av cable that does both component out and vga out at the same time? I ask because if it were possible, it would be a very cheap an effective way to capture gameplay from an original xbox while playing. I was looking at this diagram for av pinouts and saw how similar they already were: https://imgur.com/odRIA8b I guess the only potential issue is that pins 9 and 10 are shorted for when its VGA and are not shorted when its component? Would be curious to hear from people more knowledgeable than myself.
  12. Hello all I just started using a component cable and it is forcing 60hz constantly even though I have PAL60 DISABLED in MSDash, is that normal? On my RGB SCART cable I can always get 50hz, as I need 50hz for Amiga, c64 and Spectrum emulation but on the component cable it won't let me get 50hz even when I am launching everything specifically in PAL and have PAL60 DISABLED. The Xbox logo when it starts up is in 50hz but everything after that is 60hz constantly. I even have tried the emulators set to force 50hz in options and still they won't go to 50hz Thanks
  13. Hey Everyone, I used to have the official xbox component cable, but like a fool didn't understand their value until now. I just recently got back into xbox, purchased a system I'm working on repairing and modding, and I was able to locate a advance high definition AV pack with the component connections. just curious, is the breakout box better than the cable? or about they the same? Thanks! ~John
  14. so I bought a cheapo component cable and outputs black and white sometimes split screen. Tried booting to NTSC outputs black screen. Tried booting PAL split screen. Tried PAL 60 black and white. any ideas?
  15. ^ Only sellers from within the EU please.
  16. i'm using the official xbox HD adapter and high quality component cables but i always get interference. anybody know why and a way to fix it?
  17. Hello, I have used the official component cable for my original Xbox for years without any issues, until now. This is what happens: https://youtu.be/RihPxD0JcB0 This only seems to happen on menu's. No problems in-game so far. At first, I thought the cable was damaged, so I bought a Kaico HDMI adapter to replace it, but this is what happens when I use it: https://youtu.be/iLw4o2IqtGE I decided to grab my older Xbox from the attic for testing and both cables work perfectly on that console, so I think the cables are not the issue. I'm no expert at all, so can somebody tell me what's going on with my console? Can it be fixed?
  18. Someone know a component adaptater (3 or 5 color connexions) output hdmi with no lose of signal ?
  19. I have the big green monster cable microsoft but i'm searching for the missing cable of the optical output. ( Do not see light trought the connection of the optical, so it is broken ?) I am searching for the official microsoft component + optical ( to compare) if you have too, but they are easy to find on ebay.
  20. $25 Custom DIY Component Cables for OGXbox made from an official Xbox360 set of cables. I do not grantee my work. This was a personal use set and I figured I'd pass them on to the community. *NOTE* Composite is NOT connected. There is only YPbPr and L/R audio
  21. I'm getting a shimmer/interference and a line slowly moving vertically on screen, using component cable. What are the thoughts on cause & fix? I read the best visual out for xbox original is component, so I ebayed a component cable, plugged in. (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1080p-Component-HD-TV-RCA-AV-Cable-Cord-Lead-For-Original-Xbox/143318317450) I checked TV supports YPbPr. (manual https://assets.kogan.com/files/usermanuals/KALED55UHDUA-A.pdf) I've wiggled the connections, and tried green only - the same shimmer&line. Also the TV says 576i@50hz, I thought component would do 480p? The composite cable it came with works ok, but looking to improve on quality. Thanks
  22. When it comes to component to HDMI adapters I've seen a few people say there will be a noticeable loss in quality, however does this apply to modding an hdmi port onto the board and is it even worth it to do it?
  23. I recently found my set of Monster Component Cables again for my OG Xbox, and I always remember loving the picture quality that came out of those cables. I had been using the Chimeric Systems HDMI adapter and have enjoyed it, but it seems to be producing these "visual" lines in the image that I'm unable to fix. (Shown in the picture below) I was curious to know if there were any recommended component to HDMI adapters that would work well? I can't use component straight up as I no longer have an input source that has its own component cables, so going with HDMI is a necessity. Thanks! (Picture of the "line" issue whilst using the Chimeric Systems HDMI adapter. Screen brightness is due to the picture being a snapshot in between "fading to white" transitions.)
  24. So yes, guys that is my question, please help me here. I am trying to buy an original component xbox 360 cable, to then build an Xbox component cable (using a tutorial from the forum). I live in south america and buying internationally is not an option (2 to 3 months of wait). Could this be an original 360 component cable? Don't laugh if is not, it looks kinda of in bad shape, but it has a similarity to my composite cables for the OG Xbox. It the ONLY one I have found in my entire country (seller SAYS it's original):
  25. As the title says, I have an Xbox with an incredibly annoying buzz/hum problem. The buzz comes from the speakers of the TV, not the Xbox itself. And only occurs when using the component cables. When using composite cables, the audio is perfectly fine. Haven't tried SCART as I do not have the cable. I'm pretty sure this issue wasn't an issue just a few months ago. I've tried using different power cables, different power sockets (in case of grounding issue)... I think SOMETIMES it depends on what game is being played whether the buzz appears. My Xbox is softmodded, with the only physical mod being a new SATA HDD using an HDD to SATA adapter. Is this a possible cause? The only other thing I can see are three capacitors that LOOK like they are bulging, but no leaking yet. The three caps in question are right below the CPU heatsink, labelled C3E2, C2E5 and C1E1.. I've attached a photo to show the caps. The photo isn't mine, I found it on Google images but it's identical to mine., Are these caps related to audio, or are they related to something else like power? So the question is... does anyone out there have any ideas as to the cause of a buzzing noise with component cables that probably wasn't there a few months ago?

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