Magicaldave

Damn, nice work! I generally find the IDE drives to be unpredictable to the point of uselessness these days. Got a nigh-20 year old desk star powering one of my PS2s but that’s more out of laziness than anything.

I’m not familiar with using shortcut XBE’s, but I wanted to toss in another method here that I am familiar with. First it’s important to recognize that changing dashboards isn’t always well documented because the finer details are always a bit different based on your config. But generally, here goes: Figure our where your dashboard is booting from. There’s a more proper way to do this, either by looking it up or checking your .cfg, but the easiest is when booting UnleashX AS YOUR DASHBOARD, not as an app, press Y, and scroll down until you see “dash location” as something like “C:/Dashboard/default.xbe” Pick your favorite dashboard, make sure it’s .xbe file matches the name of your existing dashboard, and FTP the new dashboard on top of the old one. Keep a rescue disc handy in case something breaks as I have had this happen before. In the case of softmodded boxes I would exclusively recommend using the Rocky5 extras disc to install his softmod if necessary and switch dashes or even dual boot dashes. It does the messy work for you.

Assembler games thread I copied describing the error: Dashboard failed to launch due to missing/bad key, or anything else that would prevent it from running and the dashboard didn't specify why it failed. I would try to rebuild it. What are you using to source your C:/ and E:/ files for xboxhdm? I’ve not used 1.9. Did they come included as they do with xboxhdm23? Since this is a dashboard error you might also find some success booting a rescue disc like Rocky5 extras, AID, or HeXen.

What kinda internet are you running where you can just casually pull 1.7Tb in 9 days? Very jelly. With my data cap I could barely do it in 9 months!

Or just send that deader to someone around here for repairs!

Only thing holding me back on a box like that would be the crystal case, I think I’m probably the only person who doesn’t like them. Still, I’d go for about 700 on a box like that.

Don’t know the first about Ndure, but just looking over the shot you’ve provided it sounds like you want “Boot XBL dash with Eject” If you’re soft nodding anyway you may prefer just to upgrade to Rocky5 which has dual boot settings you can customize and access from within the Xbox itself.

Sorry I never got back to you in pm! I’m doing renovations in-home and all my boxes and PCs are packed. Haven’t been gaming much at all, but being bored is good motivation!!! Just out of curiosity, could you narrow down which version of Coin Ops 8 you used? I really tried but I couldn’t find one simply named “CoinOPS 8 Premium” that seems like it might just be the front end for whatever set it comes with - lite, massive, gold, etc.

I am not familiar of any hotswap method which requires you to copy a song to the drive. Could you please explain what you’re doing? I haven’t hotswapped in a long time but if that’s all you’re trying to do, you can proceed in two ways. 1) unplug the dvd drive’s power and boot the console. Once it complaining and fails to boot, you should have an unlocked drive. 2) if you have a raspberry Pi, you can use that to read the EPROM on your console, attach the drive, and skip the hotswap altogether.

Damn man. These are beautiful looking boards. I really appreciate what you are doing for us here. Personally, it makes me sick that people sell these chips in the hundreds of dollars because they’re “out of print”. In a world where you can order these boards for yourself and clone them so easily and cheaply, I don’t think that holds up any more and serves as an excuse for profit seekers to scalp the community. Your work has certainly helped me to do a bit of my own cloning which I hope to be able to share soon I’d be interested to see how you get the X3 clone dines as some of that board is custom silicon, no?

Purchasing a flash programmer and going to the trouble of using seems a lot more complicated than just restoring LFRAME. Above link covers install instructions for the chip you mentioned. A cursory look at the board should reveal the cut trace at U7C1. You can restore this trace fairly easily with some solder or a conductive ink pen, then follow Ging3rguy’s instructions. Honestly if I were in your situation I’d probably just cut out the middleman and stick with the softmod. But... being able to customize your BIOS is pretty nice. Until you end up in a situation like this I’m right there with you though so I’ve got no room to talk.

Hmm. Unfortunately not being a coin ops user myself I can’t offer anything else at the moment But, I’ve been looking for an excuse to try it out. PM me a link to the download you used and I’ll see if I can reproduce it.

Welp. Firstly, it’s definitely not a thermal issue. Those are pretty decent and 1.6 units run very cool in the first place. Doom 3 does run off the HDD successfully so *maybe* you’ve got a bad rip. I would try again for all three and double-check that your FTP client is set to “binary” instead of ASCII/text as this can cause weird issues, especially with CHIMP. Most FTP clients use binary by default but it’s worth a shot. Also, have you ever done any solder work on the Xbox? I ask because my “crazy” box was received secondhand, literally off the side of the road, and the original owner had clearly knocked off a handful of resistors/caps while installing their modchip. I think this is the origin of my box’s problems with CHIMP, so theorize you may have a similar issue. 1.6 boxes also do have some finicky issues with their video encoder but I’ve never heard this reported on Coin Ops or Doom 3, and it seems to be rare you’d ever notice it in the first place. Might not be related in the slightest, but, didja ever check the dash/kernel revisions on the system?

They shipped ‘em something! But OP makes a good point. People who don’t really know what they’re looking at often conflate OGX and 360 A/V connectors. I found a listing at vintage stock for ONE original Xbox cable, but when a I went in to grab it they “didn’t have it in inventory” because someone marked it as a 360 cable.

Eh, if you’re on a 1.0 you can really get the same feature set besides write protect, which is still achievable with a switch, as is multibios on the 1MB flash chip. Having a chip around can always come in handy if your BIOS gets hosed for some reason though.

Looks like a damn good price for the av pack! Have you tried one of these before? I’ved used one for a long time and the picture seems pretty good! Would like to see if there’s a noticeable difference there.

Damn, an SD card huh? Nice work!!!

>Sells on OGX forums for $100 >Sells on eBay for 80 I see what you were going for there.

Kinda sounds like your flash chip is going out, my guy. Ever end up checking for a wire on the bottom? Either way it sounds like it’s probably about time for that Aladdin you’ve got laying around.

Hey, it’s temp adjustable for a reason, right? I usually go closer to 450 to heat the entire area better when desoldering. A lot of that “burned” look usually is just the solder itself as opposed to the actual board. As far as working on the power supply PCB, they’re constructed a little bit differently. Essentially, it’s just a breadboard specifically slotted for the installed components. So you’ll notice there’s no solder mask on top, and I don’t believe the PSU uses surface mount components at all. Ends up being a bit more durable for this reason. Happy modding, pal

Another thing that I think may be worth checking is if you have ever done the “coma console” fix on this board. Basically you just solder some points on the underside of the board to a ground point to boot from another BIOS bank. I’m guessing somewhat wildly here, but if this is the case it seems possible that you’re booting off one portion of the chip and forcing these address lines to ground is preventing your in-use bank from being reflashed. I think KaosEngineer could clarify whether or not this is actually a possibility. If you find such a wire on the underside I bet upon removal you’ll boot into whatever BIOS you last flashed. Flashing a 1MB BIOS as directed above would probably also solve this issue IF that’s what it is.

Download a copy of the EvolutionX (or I guess just copy Hexen’s from your DVD) dashboard and put your modified BIOS file into the BIOS folder of the evolutionX dash. Then you can flash from System Utils > bios flash and it should point directly to any bios files you’ve put there. There are other ways to skin this particular cat like XBlast XBE sedition but I personally prefer Evox. Also: when you’re flashing in EvoX or HeXen, it should show the exact name and model of flash chip you’re writing to just before you PRESS Y TO FLASH!!! Compare this to what’s actually on your board... I wonder that it’s writing to the correct place or anywhere at all.

Mfw TSOP flash reverts back to original BIOS

Man, I love it when new people join up with weird issues XD Good luck my friend. I think you’re in good hands

Do not quote me on this but I think all 1.6 models use D5960. Any game with a title update should do this using its DLC installer - Halo 2 and Brute Force come to mind for me. In this case i think your kernel version would be more relevant, but I can’t say for sure. I’ve not seen Rocky’s video on this but Xplorer360 seems to have this weird kink where you can’t properly import stuff unless you create and navigate into a new folder, then use “import file/folder” to write to it. Whatever you put in will end up in the directory above it. Otherwise you’ll sit there for a few minutes, it seems like it works, then you wonder why it didn’t add anything and what you did wrong. Xplorer360 here