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That capacitor is just to smooth power goes into the SPDIF port. It has nothing to do with the actual signal itself. Start by cleaning the AVIP cable and port connections. It's possible you have some dust causing poor contact. Try connecting a generic high intensity red LED between the outer legs of the existing SPDIF port and directing that into your SPDIF cable. If that works but the port does not, it's the SPDIF port burning out. Also try using the SPDIF output from the xbox to another device like a cheap Cmedia CM6206LX USB sound card or Turtle beach DSS. Try another device with SPDIF audio out to your current sound system (again cheap CM6206LX sound card is great for this).

Thanks for the tips. I will look over it again. It is of course possible the cabling has hidden damage too. But all the visible wiring looks ok. The optical port is rather worn out though. It had a broken solder joint and the little door barely closes. I wonder if an electrical arc from a broken solder joint could damage it. The port connection also has a lot of play in it. I dug around Digikey and found a replacement emitter assembly that looks remarkably similar to the original, and also bought a replacement cap. We'll see what happens!

This is causing some memories to surface. After playing with these prebuilt releases from around the web, and finding IGR non-working, I looked around more and found the github with python patcher: https://github.com/gaasedelen/titan I patched an original m8 Plus myself and the patch itself is what disables IGR. I don't think you can load the final patched builts into EVTool.

@tiertop Expanding upon Marty's post here, it may be possible that there is a short or something fishy about grounding that is causing attenuation/dimming in the LED or blocking the data signal from reaching the transmitter entirely. Definitely look at ALL the wiring in there.

Looks like you’ve started to lose strands here. I’m assuming this is the cable that the case has ruined, as you mentioned. I don’t see anywhere else that I would personally start my troubleshooting. If you’re capable, I’d repair that connection and see what happens.

This guide and pictures taken from: http://www.biline.ca/xbox_solder.htm TSOP Flashing Unlock points if you are unsure which Xbox version you have click Here TSOP unlock points for version 1.0/1.1 Xbox This is the top of the motherboard Connect the two solder pads at R7D3 as in photo above. This is the bottom side of motherboard Connect the two solder pads at R7R3 as in photo above. All Ver 1.0/1.1 Xbox's with a 'SHARP' TSOP chip must also connect the additional red wire as in the photo above. All other TSOP's DO NOT require this step. TSOP Unlock points for all Versions 1.2/1.3/1.4/1.5/ Xbox's This is the top side of the motherboard These Xbox's have both points located on the top of the motherboard, for the first point connect the two solder pads at R7D10 as in photo above. For the second point locate the junction between R7D2 and R7D1 and connect the two solder pads as in the photo above. After the solder points are completed you should re-assemble your xbox (but leave the top cover off) when the power button is pressed it should boot normally as it did before you started. Note if you get the message TSOP write protected while attempting to Flash the TSOP you might need to check and resolder the points to ensure a good connection was m while attempting to Flash the TSOP you might need to check and resolder the points to ensure a good connection was made. To split Split a 1MB TSOP (v1.0, v1.1) into 4 banks of 256k, the following picture explains how to accomplish this: Note: If you have a 1.6/1.6b Xbox, it has no TSOP and therefore you cannot flash it. You will have to install a modchip or softmod.

Yes, why do you think it would not work? The Xbox controller port is USB with an extra Yellow wire used by a lightgun. Source: https://photobucket.com/gallery/user/xphazer/media/cGF0aDovWGJveFVzYlBpbnNfenBzYzI3ZTMxNTIuanBn/?ref=

Does Somebody hast Pictures of a 1.4 diagram