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  2. I mean if I already bought it, might as well put in the new one.
  3. Today
  4. .... Which end of the wire? Did you hook up the chip to the pad, or the spot on the motherboard to the pad?
  5. You may be able to try some contact cleaner on the switch with the panel PCB removed, or if you can solder, replace the switch entirely.
  6. Hey, I haven't done this on a 1.6, but the 1.0 box I've been using primarily hasn't had any lockups, shutdowns, etc. Everything is still working fine. Probably going to try it on a 1.1 as well, I assume the board layout is similar enough.
  7. The non-working cables were still transmitting light. It was just noticeably dimmer. I compared it with the working optical cable coming from my TV. I also connected the cables that weren't working with the XBox to the TV and they didn't work with it either.
  8. Art for Pokemon MiniX already exists. See attached, this is from the official XBMC4Gamers artwork installer. _resources.zip
  9. I didn't read the entire thread. Has anyone suggested replacing the 0 ohm resistors with dip switches?
  10. Ok, I removed D0 wire and grounded it to the pad you marked. it boots to 05 error
  11. Thanks for the link! That can be useful. The thing is the power button sometimes works. After I did some cleaning, it started to work again. And I was always able to power it off, just not on. I was forced to press the eject button to turn it on. Sometimes the power button would work to turn it on after it sat down and cooled off for awhile. And sometimes it would try to power on, and then just power back off! It’s never powered itself off. It’s so weird! Plus, the Appendix (Clock Cap) didn’t leak around that area. I actually already bought the new power board, so I’ll test it just to make sure, but it could be the traces.
  12. Very possible it's just the board and not trace rot. Best to test before jumping to conclusions.
  13. I know it's kinda Offtopic, but could you reupload the files? Can't find anything but TR1 for Xbox anywhere online
  14. Sorry to ping you again @copperminebut are you modded XBoxes still working fine with this mod? Because I need to do this mod on my 1.6 as summers here are getting hotter each day. Last day I was playing black and my Xbox froze, rebooted it and I saw that the CPU temp was at 75°. So I think it got overheated, also the fact that I have it stuffed into a corner doesn't help I guess. So could someone please tell me which resistors I need to remove to undervolt the CPU on a 1.6 revision? The images attached by OP are a bit confusing for me. Thanks. Edit: Also what app is OP using to benchmark the CPU, I'd like to try that before and after too.
  15. Just wanted to chime in: Have you cleaned both the male and female parts of the AV port? It's unlikely that you would be experiencing corrosion issues or poor contact RIGHT after you do a 128MB mod, but it's always worth a shot. Also, did anything about your setup change between before and after?
  16. It's trace rot. There are positive leads for everything. The green sides of the LEDs ( are not getting positive power and your power button is also severed, probably on the positive side (I'm unclear what has its own negative leads and what has both a positive and a negative. Take a look here. I've done it (trace rebuild based on what I determined to be severed), but it was tedious and time consuming https://www.overclock.net/threads/need-help-xbox-power-eject-power-requirements-leds.401555/
  17. After the 128mb installation, I get no sound. I tried testing everything and still no luck on sound. It plays all the games fine and no other issues. This is a v1.4 board. Let me know if you guys know anything I should look out for. I tried wiggling wires and pressing down on certain areas where the av is. I also tried reflowing the joint for the av port but still no luck. Any advice would be great. Thanks!
  18. It is possible for them to get wonky. It's tough to say whether that's definitely the problem or not. The best test would be to source another board and see if it behaves the same.
  19. My Xbox's power button is really weird. Sometimes it works, and sometimes it just doesn't. Not only that, but the green LED Light on it does not work (The Red does however). At first, I assumed it was the traces, but if the Red Light works, then it has to be the power board, right?
  20. Yesterday
  21. Art packs for Navi's Quest and Zelda 3 port added to first page Let me know what you think
  22. I had actually never heard of a fiber cable developing cracks, let alone two cables! I could understand how he would be confused.
  23. Diagnosed with the same issue. It’s not a fix all solution. It could always be as simple as bad capacitors.
  24. HI also with the same issue? or just those that wont power on?
  25. Congrats on getting it working. Fortunately optical cables are incredibly easy to test. Just shine a light in one end and see if a light appears on the other end.
  26. I would still try to clean up some of that solder if you have some desoldering braid. There’s just way too much on there. You can also try removing the d0 connection on the chip and grounding it to the pad marked in the picture. Then try to boot with eject. It does seem like the xenium may need reprogramming if you’re 100% sure all the connections are solid.
  27. Not with XBPartitioner. It only supports formatting partitions up to 1TB using 64KB clusters. It doesn't have 128KB cluster support. At this time to format a larger partition supported by Cerbios, you must use FATXplorer 3.0 beta on a PC.
  28. So, I can actually format my F partition to 2 TB? I can finally be rid of the dreaded Origins 50/50 split? No corruption?
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Board startup date: April 23, 2017 12:45:48
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