All Activity
- Today
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I have been made aware that these are contentious bits of software as well. Do not link on this site to where to download them. Do not upload them to your post if that's possible. If you find them here somewhere, report them.
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Due to threats of litigation and ongoing disputes over IP infringement claims, we have decided to attempt to stop all discussion of Xbox HDMI HARD mods on this site. We will not be discriminating based on brand. All discussion is hereby banned in an effort to not be sued. The HDMI mods are really for people trying to build the ultimate modded Xbox. The results yielded by the HDMI mods are very slightly sharper than the component to HDMI converters by reputable brands. They are almost indistinguishable and so are hard to justify for many due to their expense and installation difficulty. If the truth were really told, the installation difficulty is the main reason anyone has them... so they can show off their skills. The quality of the video output simply isn't that much better than component. (These comments are specific to the Original Xbox. Other consoles can actually have a dramatic improvement.) Component to HDMI adapter discussions are allowed. Hard modded adapters that intercept the raw video signals prior to the built-in video encoder discussions are disallowed. The threat of lawsuit against us is that we allegedly choose what can and cannot be published on our site. We are actually protected by law as media and exempt from most litigation due to our First Amendment rights to publish whatever we want as long as we are not directly providing something unlawful. We aren't, but this is also a public forum. We don't have the time to constantly monitor it nor are we attorneys. We don't intend for anything unlawful to be published on this site or to allow it to remain, but we simply can't catch everything and even if we could we do not know what is in compliance with the law and what isn't. Quite frankly, if you're not an attorney, neither do you. I'm referencing section 230 here. Section 230 protects this site from most things third parties (people posting to this board) could expose us to. One thing it doesn't protect us from, are claims of intellectual property theft. I have no idea who owns what intellectually property, who may or may not have used it unlawfully, etc. So, we've had to look at what to do about this. We can't continue in the current state because I cannot afford to be sued simply because I chose to create a site covering a topic I once loved when the main site had gone offline or was about to. So since we have no protection from this specific claim and since there is no clear indication of what is right and what is wrong I have only this one option to protect this site. The only reasonable thing for this site to do is attempt to stop all discussion regarding the HDMI mods creating all of the controversy, the company threatening litigation, the main person behind said company, any products they offer, AND any competitors to those products. I don't know what HDMI HARD mod is legal and what isn't, so the best way to protect this site is to block discussion of all of them. If you can sue us for (passively or unintentionally) allowing certain discussion, then we will attempt to comply and attempt to disallow all of it. There is absolutely no way for us to find every mention of every HDMI device that happened in the past. Please report those if you find them and if they are indeed HDMI HARD mods we will take them out of public view after we see the report. There is a lot of content on here and we can only do so much. -HARD mod means some part of the adapter installation requires the original hardware be modified in some way. HARDware was added to the circuit board somewhere OTHER than a port designed for devices to be plugged into it in order to modify the behavior of the device. Usually this means soldering was required, or traces on the circuit board were cut in order to intercept or redirect certain signals to make that modified behavior possible. -HARD mods vs SOFT mods. Hard mods mean hardware was added. Soft mods mean the mod was achieved via some form of software exploit. Soft mods aren't relevant here, but to understand the term HARD MOD it's important to understand the distinction. -
Olimilo57 joined the community -
Rekir936 joined the community -
TomRiddle98 joined the community -
Going to be brief. 1) I dont see any reason why anyone should avoid RedHerring32's power supply option. I have no doubt in my mind it works great. 2) I feel Redherring32 and I may have a common problem. Communications can be.. difficult.. Things dont always come across as intended. I have yet to see exactly what is incorrect with details on why, I say this because maybe you have and I failed to understand. If you want to reach out again, feel free. If not, I understand. Yes, there's room for improvements in my design. Already working on a improved version. The PMIC I'm using is an older chip. Because of that it's well documented, perfect for someone just learning. And that is why choose to do this project, to learn. 3) This is not the place. If we want to continue this, let's start a new topic here or somewhere else specificity for it. I ask that it stays strictly technical. Now my ears are ringing, I smell like burnt gunpowder, eyes burn from the bright fireworks... I hope everyone had a great 4th. -Andr0
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So I tried the fix for the coma console, jumping wires A18 and A19 (All combinations) with no change, I know I have a modchip in another console, will try to boot that to see if I can get something to work, from what I have seen it has the exact symptoms of a "Coma" console.
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A few quick questions for Rredherring32. Do you know which specific PMICs that Team Resurgent PSU is using? Do you have any real world objective measurements of what you claim? Is it all subjective eyeballing from pictures on reddit? Can you see the inner layers of the board (if there are any)? I'm genuinely curious. I can critique a PCB design too, but unless I have the board, or gerber files, or the board in hand I can't know with any certainty what's going on with that PCB. I doubt anyone can objectively.
- Yesterday
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I'm not really sure what not purchasing from me is supposed to do to me. Considering the fact that I have never sold any of my creations, and have been very public about my desire to never do so. All my work is open sourced under a license that lets *other people* sell it too. So I guess you can spite me by not giving me stars on GitHub or something? That'll absolutely ruin me. As far as "getting rid of competition" isn't it a little hard to have any desire to do so when such a thing doesn't exist? I literally have nothing to gain from anyone using my PSU or not. Frankly I had no reason to even reach out to Andr0 on Reddit. (Which I did publicly and I invite you to read that reply again) I did so because I noticed textbook issues with the PMIC layouts and wanted to make them aware of them, or assist in redoing the PCB should that have been something they were willing to accept. They did not, and to be honest I felt like my concern was just brushed off. And I will admit I got mouthy amongst those feelings, but the fact of the matter is nothing I said was untrue, and if you read up on power layout and design practices you will find that to be the case. PMICs require very specific designs and the recommendations made in datasheets are very literal and concise about what you must do or they won't work correctly. High current power designs can even become dangerous if you don't understand these requirements. I said exactly this and feel like you viewed this as baseless insults. The "meanest" thing I'm going to say, and the meanest thing I did say is I do think the PCB needs redesigned before it can ethically be sold. The issues with it are extremely textbook and completely objective. If you think that is "anticompetitive" to say I'm not really sure how else I can explain how little I care about money or any other motive you're trying to apply to me. And finally to get to how I've been feeling for quite a while now: I have absolutely no desire to design hardware for the Xbox anymore, there were a bunch of things I wanted to do with it still but I don't feel like it would do me any good to keep putting stuff out for it that I spend dozens and hundreds of hours on and slapping such a permissive license on it if the "scene" will continue to just go after it with weird tribalistic territorial rhetoric. I gain nothing from anything I put out and perhaps less than nothing, and I'm just undervaluing myself and my work to give it away to a community that so blatantly disrespects it and my intentions. I truly don't believe this is a community that respects developers, I don't think it understands what it takes to make stuff, and I don't think it cares. It's not a place for someone passionate about making cool stuff and especially not someone passionate about doing it correctly. Don't worry about boycotting my future Xbox work cause there won't be any.
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BubbleAsh joined the community -
Green, even after a long time it never changes. I also booted without the HD installed and still no change on Green LED.
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In what led color does eject flash? Here you can find the meaning of the led error codes: https://www.xbox-scene.info/forums/topic/24-original-xbox-error-codes/#comment-60
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Have a 1.0 Xbox and upon boot has no video, I have read enough to check traces and caps. Traces look decent and continuity checks appear to be happening as expected. The caps appear fine and they test within tolerance CPU/GPU, even so I ordered a set to replace to be sure. What I do not understand is the DVD doesn't respond to the eject button, I replaced IDE and power with a known working drive and same result, just flashing eject. Could this be a symptom of the caps needing to be replaced or could this be something else?
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Gonna add a capsule collider tutorial sometime. But now for something different. When doing changing arrays in code I use average [] arrays with a nearby int variable to keep count on how many used elements are in the array. If the array has to change, take the index you want to remove from it, make a temporary int to store the used elements, loop through the array with the counting int, select all but the removed element, increase the temporary int each time and set the original counting int to the temp integer. Consider the following. void RemoveIndexFromArray(int index) { int tmp = 0; for(int i=0; i < numAllElements; i++) { if(i != index) { validElements[tmp] = allElements[i]; tmp++; } } numValidElements = tmp; } Don't call this all the time as it would be performance costly if the array is large. Just call it when it needs to be changed. (Also you might not need to use the temp int as you could just -- the original counting array)
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literallyjustPat joined the community -
PriceCharting has it listed at $235 for everything together, asking $165 OBO INDIVIDUAL PRICING BELOW (all prices are rounded down to the nearest dollar and ARE NEGOTIABLE!) Everything is CIB unless stated otherwise Soul Calibur 2 (disc only) - $6 The Simpsons Road Rage- $11 Deus Ex Invisible War- $9 Shenmue II- $14 Gun- $9 Reservoir Dogs- $18 Hitman Blood Money- $8 4x4 Evo 2- $9 Spy Hunter 2- $9 Sega GT 2002 & JSRF- $15 Sonic Heroes- $24 Shark Tale- $7 Halo 2- $12 Test Drive- $6 DDR Ultramix- $6 Burnout 3 Takedown- $13 Finding Nemo- $5 WWF Raw- $10 LOTR Fellowship of the Ring- $13 Brother in Arms Road to Hill 30- $6 Ghost Recon- $5
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maycon joined the community -
Did you ever have another go at making a good version of this shroud that will fit with the DVD/HDD?
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ZexGX joined the community -
PitViper joined the community - Last week
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There's over 20 years of doing these types of things, so different people will have different methods. Which is fair. I'm currently setting up my new HDD with Fatxplorer on windows. I can preload it with a Cerbios bios file, just in case. I'm currently using UnleashX. Whenever I want it to start one of the XMBC dashes, it complains there is no "D" partition. So I guess I'll have to set one up myself with Fatxplorer if I want to keep using UnleashX?
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There's no real advantage to using a separate disc; it's just a habit I've gotten into over time.
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I'm currently running Xblast via OGXbox Installer 2021. Is there an advantage to burning Xblast to a seperate disc and using that instead? I would have to flip the switch before booting up the disc though. Because I need to remove the disc drive to get to the switch. So I can't load the disc and then flip the switch I'm afraid.
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Hi guys, I just repaired traces A-D on a board with the FOCUS chipset. 2 of them were damaged with no continuity and the other 2 had damage but they still had continuity. I still did them anyway. When I tried to do E though, the spots indicated on the pics in this thread had no continuity but the E trace looks pristine. Also, there's a post indicating that E is incorrect and will ground. Do you have any link to the correct 'E' repair?
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undecided65 joined the community -
1.3 Has No Power, Potential Catastriphic Damage?
undecided65 replied to infernal_byte's topic in Repair
Which Delta PSU? Was it a drop in replacement or external? Thx -
Your hypothesis is correct. Here's the process, step-by-step: Burn a CD with Xblast and a dummy file. Cerbios BIOS (renamed to bios.bin) located in C:/Bios. Boot your Xbox with the CD inserted. Toggle the switch on your modchip to select the other bank. Initiate the flash process.
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Todypync joined the community -
Judging from the screen I got in Xblast it'll only flash the current bank. So I'd need to physically flip the switch to bank 2, flash it and then see if everything works. That would be my guess at least. Bank 2 is currently unusable by me anyway, since it has a bios for 1.6 boards on it, while I have a 1.4. Any ideas are welcome though, since this chip is basically an antique and I can't really find much modern information on it.
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The white button on the chip is used to select the bank. I'm not sure if you can flash Xblast to one bank and then flash the other bank from Xblast itself. I've always used a CD with the BIOS and a dummy file for flashing. Xblast is a newer tool, and it will adapt the BIOS size (from what I remember, these banks are 512KB). Back in the day, we had to run a .bat file on a PC to adapt the BIOS size
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Delete or rename bootanim.ini. It will default to Green. You can also disable the dog logo using Cerbios Tool. -
@KaosEngineer I'm unfamiliar with the Duo. Can he flash Xblast to bank 1 and use it to flash bank 2?
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Which file are you using, exactly?
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No problem, I actually removed the pin header that was there because the previous owner was soldering directly to them and I preferred to solder directly to the board. About the connections themselves, I followed the modxo diagram exactly, using new wires, good quality solder and flux as well, always checking the continuity. My guesses are that I'm doing something wrong when installing the files on the rpi or the lpc port is not receiving the proper signals because, when putting D0 to ground it tries to start through the port and can't complete the boot process.
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Hmmm. Are you sure your wiring is correct? How confident are you that you can remove the solder from the LPC port and solder in a pin header?
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Board Life Status
Board startup date: April 23, 2017 12:45:48