infernal_byte

Apologies for the necro, but I was able to get the Xbox working again! I checked the standby voltage as recommended by @arfows and found that there was no output on that line. I also noticed that the power supply was heating up quite a bit. I ended up getting a Delta psu as a replacement and it solved the issue. Got it all TSOPed and it's working flawlessly after some basic testing. Just need to take it online with Halo 2 for it's final exam Thank you all for your help!

So I was able to give the board a good cleaning and replaced the capacitors that were leaking around the clock cap. I haven't replaced any of the other capacitors yet, but I plan on it once I can get it to at least power on for a bit. The board seems to be looking much better now, I am just waiting on some UV solder mast to come in so I can cover the exposed copper. I tried to power on the system, but it still isn't showing any signs of life. I checked for shorts on the PSU (Foxlink) connector on the motherboard, and I saw some low resistance on the pins. Blue circle shows low resistance. I'm not sure if I checked the proper way, so I have a video of me going through all of the PSU pins here. New board pics here, these are before I put on C7G1 and C7G6. I also checked on the P/E Traces and it seems those are solid. I'm a bit stumped as to where the short could be. I imagine that the area where the resistor blew up is where the short is, but I'm not sure how I could fix that properly. I got a grinding pen and was able to remove most of the carbon that was around that area. The area around Q7G2 seems like it has a rusted solder joint? R7G3 is also loosely attached, but I'm not sure if it's needed to power this revision of Xbox. I'm currently waiting on a replacement to get in. What do you guys think the short is being caused by? Is it normal for these pins to have low resistance?

I have some good news. It looks like all the traces that run through 6-8 appear to be fine! I checked for continuity through all of them and they seemed to be good all the way to the top of the board, including the one in the bottom right corner. I also went and took an old toothbrush with 91% IPA and tried to get at the corrosion. Like @Raidernick said, it does look like something exploded on the board. Some basic Googling told me that the ceramic capacitor (C7G7) was rated "8nf 0603". I'm hoping that it's not required to run the box, as it looks like the trace is basically destroyed. I also took some more photos, it's nice to be able to see things up close! There is still some corrosion along the backside of Q7G2. I plan on giving this area of the motherboard a good soaking with a baking soda, vinegar, and IPA. R7G3 appears to have come loose from the corrosion. C6G3, C6G1, and C7G6 appear to also be leaking. I planning on replacing these caps. Thank you @FrostyMaGee and @Raidernick for helping me out! I would throw you a beer if I could Hopefully I can get some more insight on anything else I should check before I try to power the box. If there are any other angles I should upload, I can upload them Album here.

I have taken some more photos and uploaded them to this album. It does appear that trace 7 where it zig-zags is corroded. I wasn't able to pry off the black pad covering the trace, but I assume I'll still have to rerun this trace. I've also taken a look at the clock cap location first thing in the morning, and this picture makes it look bad. I hope I can clean all of that corrosion off

I purchased a broken no power Xbox (v1.3) at a game store recently, and decided to take a look and see what the issue was. When I got the Xbox, it did not respond to being plugged in or pushing the power button. I've heard that the clock capacitor is an issue with the Xbox, and noticed that there was corrosion by it. It took me a while to take the capacitor off, almost like it was fused to the board. I was able to eventually get it out, but I ended up breaking off the cathode. (I am relatively new to repairing electronics and although I feel confident soldering, my desoldering skills need some work :-P) It seems like the corrosion is much worse than I initially thought. I am aware that the clock capacitor alone does not cause a no power issue, but rather it corroding the traces around it. What should my next steps be for the repair? Should I take a look at the A trace, or write off the console? Thank you in advance for any help/advice!