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Xbox always HDD Timeout


HyPeRcOoLeR
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Hi guys. I have a Xbox 1.0 with cheapmod (LPC Based SST49LF020) (Bios: Xecuter2 4983.67) 

and after i won't turn on the console for 1 or 2 days i always end up with Error 07 HDD Timeout. I tried out with 3 HDDs and i always get the same results. The interesting thing is if i unplug the IDE Cable and plug it back it boots without a problem, but after 1-2 days it's starts to act up.

Any idea?

420022739_723063539890607_4273651391201904948_n.jpg

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Please provide all of the extra details as you can. Along with the questions in the above post, did you mod this yourself? Have you checked to see if all of the cables all seated properly? Error 07 could mean something is disconnected or your HDD is on its way out. 

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4 hours ago, HyPeRcOoLeR said:

Hi guys. I have a Xbox 1.0 with cheapmod (LPC Based SST49LF020) (Bios: Xecuter2 4983.67) 

and after i won't turn on the console for 1 or 2 days i always end up with Error 07 HDD Timeout. I tried out with 3 HDDs and i always get the same results. The interesting thing is if i unplug the IDE Cable and plug it back it boots without a problem, but after 1-2 days it's starts to act up.

Any idea?

 

Make sure all of the IDE connectors are fully seated in all of the devices: motherboard, DVD drive and hard drive.  Verify that the hard drive is being powered with the correct voltages by the power supply.  With a multimeter, measure the voltage level between the Yellow and black and red and black wires of its Molex power connector.  What values do they read?

Is it an IDE hard drive or a SATA hard drive with an IDE-to-SATA adapter?

 

What brand and model of hard drives?

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I bought this box with the modchip pre installed. The HDD Is a IDE 250GB Samsung SP2514N (I tried with other IDE Drives and same problem after while)

IDE Cable is fully seated in.  The DVD Drive works fine. Measurements: Yellow-Black 11.1v RED-Black 4.7v. I Guess the RED-Black is too low, but interesting that it works after i replug the IDE Cable. 

Thank you guys for the help.

Edited by HyPeRcOoLeR
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17 minutes ago, HyPeRcOoLeR said:

I bought this box with the modchip pre installed. The HDD Is a IDE 250GB Samsung SP2514N (I tried with other IDE Drives and same problem after while)

IDE Cable is fully seated in.  The DVD Drive works fine. Measurements: Yellow-Black 11.1v RED-Black 4.7v. I Guess the RED-Black is too low, but interesting that it works after i replug the IDE Cable. 

Thank you guys for the help.

Voltages for the hard drive usually have a +/- 5% or 10% tolerance.  

5Vdc range: 5 + 0.25 = 5.25 Vdc maximum to 5 - 0.25V = 4.75 Vdc minimum

12Vdc range 12 + 0.6V = 12.6 Vdc maximum to 12 - 0.6V = 11.4Vdc minimum

To me, both required voltages for operation of a 3.5" hard drive are a bit too low.

You'd need to check the specs of the specific hard drive to see what the hard drive's power supply tolerances are.

 

 

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Just now, KaosEngineer said:

I Guess the RED-Black is too low, but interesting that it works after i replug the IDE Cable. 

This tells me that there's something pulling too much current on the IDE bus until after the hard drive has finished spinning up.

There are most likely bad caps and or resistors on either the hard or DVD drive's controller boards.

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On 1/30/2024 at 3:31 PM, KaosEngineer said:

This tells me that there's something pulling too much current on the IDE bus until after the hard drive has finished spinning up.

There are most likely bad caps and or resistors on either the hard or DVD drive's controller boards.

Sorry to be a bother, but are you able to explain why these failing components would result in higher current draw? Is something behind them pulling more current as a result? I am in electronics classes and I feel the answer may be interesting if you have the answer. :)

@HyPeRcOoLeR +1 for the CRT.

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7 hours ago, Bowlsnapper said:

Sorry to be a bother, but are you able to explain why these failing components would result in higher current draw? Is something behind them pulling more current as a result? I am in electronics classes and I feel the answer may be interesting if you have the answer. :)

@HyPeRcOoLeR +1 for the CRT.

If the resistors or a capacitor shorts, more current will be drawn.  Caps; however, I believe will open instead of short when they go bad.

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