Help with XBlast Aladdin upgrade

[Bowlsnapper]

51 minutes ago, Marty said:

Which programmer are you using?

I'm sure you can pin-out 3.3v from somewhere on the board....or drop voltage from a 5v regulator with a Zener diode.

This. Flashers usually have 3.3V and 5V VCC coming from SOMEWHERE.

@herooftheday

 

Modz uses the lattice programmer and explains how he hooks up the 3.3v VCC. The only thing is, I don't remember if he has the 2A or 2B.

[Marty]

1 hour ago, herooftheday said:

I use a lattice HW-USB-2A

I have the same programmer. Open it up and tap 3.3v off the voltage regulator.

User a multi-meter to make sure you're getting the correct leg of the regulator for 3.3v

[herooftheday]

1 hour ago, Bowlsnapper said:

This. Flashers usually have 3.3V and 5V VCC coming from SOMEWHERE.

@herooftheday

 

Modz uses the lattice programmer and explains how he hooks up the 3.3v VCC. The only thing is, I don't remember if he has the 2A or 2B.

I know but he has the real one my board looks totaly different

7 minutes ago, Marty said:

I have the same programmer. Open it up and tap 3.3v off the voltage regulator.

User a multi-meter to make sure you're getting the correct leg of the regulator for 3.3v

I could but there must be a external way external power did not work for me atleast.

[Bowlsnapper]

4 minutes ago, herooftheday said:

I know but he has the real one my board looks totaly different

I could but there must be a external way external power did not work for me atleast.

Just find a ground and use a multimeter positive to find a 3.3v source. It's probably not labeled. I'm trying to find one for you. You said you have the 2A, correct?

[Marty]

If you're programmer is similar, you can do this to pull 3.3v....

 

[herooftheday]

did work now I get :

Device#1 LC4032V: Failed to verify the ID 
(Expected: 0x01805043 Read: 0x00000000).
 
ERROR - Check configuration setup: Unsuccessful.
 
ERROR - Programming failed.

wireing seems fine

 

 

  

1 hour ago, herooftheday said:

I know but he has the real one my board looks totaly different

I could but there must be a external way external power did not work for me atleast.

I use his jed file

Edited October 24, 2023 by herooftheday

[Marty]

Let's see your connections....

[Bowlsnapper]

4 hours ago, Marty said:

If you're programmer is similar, you can do this to pull 3.3v....

 

Really you can just run the power out of the casing and bundle it with the comm wires. If that's the flasher's only purpose then jumping it to the pins just to be plugged into and extended doesn't really serve a purpose... unless you wanna make sure the case looks nice.

 

2 hours ago, herooftheday said:

did work now I get :

Device#1 LC4032V: Failed to verify the ID 
(Expected: 0x01805043 Read: 0x00000000).
 
ERROR - Check configuration setup: Unsuccessful.
 
ERROR - Programming failed.

wireing seems fine

 

 

  

I use his jed file

Indeed, May we see your connections, sir? And then see how the wires are plugged into your IO port? If you have a pinout for the IO, that may be helpful as well.

[herooftheday]

15 hours ago, Bowlsnapper said:

Indeed, May we see your connections, sir? And then see how the wires are plugged into your IO port? If you have a pinout for the IO, that may be helpful as well.

Wiring

[Bowlsnapper]

11 minutes ago, herooftheday said:

Wiring

.... If a bunch of the wires are black instead of the IO breakout's individual colors, it sort of defeats the purpose. why do the colors change to almost all black by the time they get to the chip?

[herooftheday]

37 minutes ago, Bowlsnapper said:

why do the colors change to almost all black by the time they get to the chip?

because the black is kynar wire because the wires included are to thick.


hier mit den kabeln:
 

Edited October 25, 2023 by herooftheday

[Bowlsnapper]

2 hours ago, herooftheday said:

because the black is kynar wire because the wires included are to thick.


hier mit den kabeln:
 

Thank you. I'll take a look when I get home. Maybe somebody will beat me to the punch.

Are you supplying 3.3V with a power supply for now? Leave the power supply on for a few minutes: Does the lattice chip warm up? I'm wondering if it's getting power.

Stupid question: Are you sure you don't have the pinout upside down?

If you twirl the ends of the wires and make sure they're narrow, you'll have an easier time soldering them to the Aladdin pads. Always use flux on the Aladdin to keep those wires separate.

[herooftheday]

1 hour ago, Bowlsnapper said:

Are you supplying 3.3V with a power supply for now? Leave the power supply on for a few minutes: Does the lattice chip warm up? I'm wondering if it's getting power.

 

no with the mod showen aboth
 

1 hour ago, Bowlsnapper said:

Leave the power supply on for a few minutes: Does the lattice chip warm up? I'm wondering if it's getting power.

when I did it with the supply no and now no
 

1 hour ago, Bowlsnapper said:

Stupid question: Are you sure you don't have the pinout upside down?

 

no the diagram showes the reference notch and the connector as well also the gnd wires match that.
and 3.3v and GND on the aladdin is right the otherpins like othe diagram.
but is from china so everyones guess really.

1 hour ago, Bowlsnapper said:

f you twirl the ends of the wires and make sure they're narrow, you'll have an easier time soldering them to the Aladdin pads. Always use flux on the Aladdin to keep those wires separate.

Oh ReAlLy I know

they where but the wires are old/ beaten up

Edited October 25, 2023 by herooftheday

[Bowlsnapper]

9 minutes ago, herooftheday said:

no with the mod showen aboth
 

when I did it with the supply no and now no
 

no the diagram showes the reference notch and the connector as well also the gnd wires match that.
and 3.3v and GND on the aladdin is right the otherpins like othe diagram.
but is from china so everyones guess really.

Oh ReAlLy I know

they where but the wires are old/ beaten up

Oh. I thought you were saying that your hardware revision looked different and you couldn't pull the power that way.

I'm wondering if your CPLD is getting the power it needs...

[herooftheday]

on the vcc line is now 3.3v so it shouold

 

 

 

6 minutes ago, Bowlsnapper said:

Oh. I thought you were saying that your hardware revision looked different and you couldn't pull the power that way.

 

 

On 10/24/2023 at 9:31 PM, Marty said:

If you're programmer is similar, you can do this to pull 3.3v....

 

 

@Marty is the same

thx alot

[Bowlsnapper]

33 minutes ago, herooftheday said:

on the vcc line is now 3.3v so it shouold

 

 

 

 

@Marty is the same

thx alot

Maybe the chip is just a piece of shit? Lol. I'll mail you an XBlast Aladdin at cost so you can have one to work with for now if you like, but I know this is a project for you so if you'd like to just do that then that's cool too, of course.

[herooftheday]

47 minutes ago, Bowlsnapper said:

Maybe the chip is just a piece of shit? Lol. I'll mail you an XBlast Aladdin at cost so you can have one to work with for now if you like, but I know this is a project for you so if you'd like to just do that then that's cool too, of course.

but to germany would be expensive.
or I just buy myself the pcbs and chips saw it is around the same as the alladin mods anyways. 
I found the gerber files here and the svf file but there where never any kicad files released?

[Marty]

I'm sorry, it's not clear. Where are you getting your 3.3v from?

[Bowlsnapper]

2 minutes ago, Marty said:

I'm sorry, it's not clear. Where are you getting your 3.3v from?

He's saying that he WAS attempting to pull from a power supply. That didn't have results he wanted so he wired the lattice Jtagger to output it, and he says it's still acting like it's not powered. I asked if the chip was getting warm, which would indicate power and he says no.

[Marty]

Yeah....some pics would help.

[Bowlsnapper]

33 minutes ago, Marty said:

Yeah....some pics would help.

He posted pics of the pinout and the wires soldered to the chip. I was going to go over them tonight.

[Bowlsnapper]

On 10/25/2023 at 2:01 PM, herooftheday said:

but to germany would be expensive.
or I just buy myself the pcbs and chips saw it is around the same as the alladin mods anyways. 
I found the gerber files here and the svf file but there where never any kicad files released?

Forgive me for not looking into this sooner. I have been extremely busy with bullcrap and doctors appointments. I have a lattice flasher and will look at your pics and confirm that you have it hooked up right (sorry. Didn't mean for that to come off as condescending.) If you continue having problems, I would look into using the FlashcatUSB JTAG programmer. It's what I use and it works fine with windows 11.

[herooftheday]

yes I will definetly buy a flashcat I hate the lattice flasher rn.
sadly I still have nand-x and jr programmer here but they will not work sadly.

[Bowlsnapper]

2 hours ago, herooftheday said:

yes I will definetly buy a flashcat I hate the lattice flasher rn.
sadly I still have nand-x and jr programmer here but they will not work sadly.

The flashcatusb is about 35. There is software for it. I was able to launch it and start flashing in 3 minutes. Painless and awesome experience. If the cpld is wired correctly it will identify the chip for you as the 4032 and you will have verification before you even try to flash. Using the flasher and software gave me a warm, fuzzy feeling inside it was so good and easy.

[herooftheday]

I got a flashcat and now it worked but sadly now the chip does not boot anymore I used NANO USB Programmer and the 1MB bin file from here, I used this programmer before with the 256k chips without a problem.

what svf file did you use?
I used this one:

Gruß