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I've got one of these Aladdin XT clones from Aliexpress and want to flash it with XBlast instead of using the openxenium for testing my boards I do ram upgrade on. From what I read some said that the SST49LF020A chip needs to be replaced with SST49LF080A. Anyone has more idea of how this is exactly done or is there a write up about this? I've attached a picture of the SST49LF020A that's on the Aladdin XT I got at the moment/

Hi Everyone, I am new to the OGXBOX scene. I have a working TSOPed 1.1 unit with 128GB of RAM I bought on Ebay. I also have several 1.6 motherboards/shells and I am desperately trying to install an OpenXenium board on any of them. I believe I ruined two 1.6 motherboards already (maybe they are salvageable?). I just tried soldering on the LPC rebuild board and 7 row pin header on a known, working 1.6 board last night and I tried to be very meticulous and careful but the console is now FRAGing (3 start attempts followed by blinking red and green). The actual Openxenium has no leds lit when this happens. I have sucessfully soldered a few Playstation 1 modchips as well as a Sege Genesis MegaAmp in the past, but I am having such a hard time getting the LPC rebuild (wire based or QSB board based) and OpenXenium chip working. Any pointers? Will pictures help?

Hello all. First post here as I just got into modding xbox's. Picked up two og xbox's, one is a 1.6 and the other a 1.0. I did a full recap on the 1.6 board and power supply and replaced the dvd drive belt. Also installed a 500gb hard drive, installed a new dashboard and lastly installed MakeMHZ's HDMI board with OpenXenium mod chip. And to my surprise every worked perfect with little to no issues. However, this 1.0 has some problems. System wouldn't boot at all at, also tried booting from a dvd using hexen with no luck. So I installed a OpenXenium mod chip and it booted right up to the Xenium OS. So I figured I was good to go, I installed a the IND 5003.67 BIOS since it would be compatible with the 128mb ram upgrade for the console. So this is where I may have messed up, I just installed all 4 ram chips at the same time instead of testing after each one. Now systems turns on and off.. on and off again then on and stays on with a green ring but no picture. However if I press the eject once it stays on it launches into either Xenium OS or the IND BIOS.. Not sure how that makes sense, seems to be random. I would think if the ram was installed wrong or shorted I wouldn't even get this far?? I was even able to ftp over Capcom vs SNK 2 and it played fine.. I'm thinking maybe something's up with the stock BIOS? I bridged the pins on the board to do a tsop thinking that might solve my problem but I don't think I have anyway to flash to the stock chip since I can only boot from a modchip.. Sorry for the long read, I'm just lost at this point. Hoping someone has some suggestions or can make sense of any of this. Also I attached a link for pics of my ram install, maybe I'm missing something? Thanks guys Justin https://imgur.com/a/Q2F8Cqh

Hey. Since I didn't saw a topic anywhere I'm going to create this one. So here's a topic about game ISO's with problems like : Invalid TOC; Illegal signs; Tto long file names. I assume it isn't nearly complete so please feel free to add your game. ******************************************************************* XBox game ISO's with "Invalid TOC". This is for the uploads "ByAlvro" and archive.org "ReDump" ISO's. And it is for PAL and NTSC games (So both version are affected). Aggressive Inline Bruce Lee - Quest of the Dragon Burnout Crash Crash Bandicoot - The Wrath of Cortex Dave Mirra Freestyle BMX 2 David Beckham Soccer Enclave Furious Karting Fuzion Frenzy Gauntlet - Dark Legacy Genma Onimusha Gravity Games Bike - Street. Vert. Dirt. NBA Starting Five Project Gotham Racing (ALL VERSIONS eg. v1.00, v1.05, etc.) Sega GT 2002 Silent Hill 2 - Inner Fears Star Wars - Jedi Starfighter Street Hoops Test Drive Tony Hawk's Pro Skater 2x Total Immersion Racing NOTE: You can extract the broken ISO using " extract-xiso ". How ever, if you are going to just create an XISO out of the ISO with extract-xiso you end up with an XISO with invalid TOC. To avoid that unpack the "broken" iso then make your own new XISO out of the files with Xdvdmulleter or Qwix. Simply drag and drop your ISO on the extract-xiso.exe and wait a moment. XBox Iso tools AiO DL: https://1fichier.com/?qua2k6qlzqzxxbe51ur2 The archive contains: extract-xiso Qwix_v1.01 XDVDMulleter Beta 10.2 XISO Split Here is a little video about it: CLICK ******************************************************************* XBox game ISO's with illegal signs in it (ä, ü, ö, á etc.pp.). Amped Freestyle Snowboarding Rainbow Six Critical Hour Top Gear RPM Tuning / RPM Tuning Ski Racing 2005 / Ski Racing 2005 ft Hermann Maier Ski Racing 2006 Just unpack the ISO folder by folder and once you found the file unpack that single file with a new file name. Then you can try to FTP it or HEX the default.xbe (Müller to Muller for example). ******************************************************************* XBox Games with to long file names. Alter Echo Amped 2 Chronicles Of Riddick Escape From Butcher Bay Enter The Matrix Fight Club Frankie Dettori Racing - Melbourne Cup Challenge Furious Karting Greg Hastings Tournament Paintball Harry Potter and the Prisoner of Azkaban Indy Car Series 2005 Inside Pitch 2003 LMA Manager 2005 Leisure Suit Larry Magna Cum Laude Midnight Club 3 DUB Midnight Club 3 DUB Edition Remix *¹ Monster Garage NBA Live 06 NBA Live 07 NFL Fever 2004 Phantasy Star Online Episodes 1 & 2 Race Driver Pro (Toca 1) The Sims 2 The Sims Bustin Out Toca Race Driver 2 Toca Race Driver 3 Tony Hawk's American Wasteland Tony Hawk's Project 8 True Crime New York Xbox Music Mixer *¹ : There is a HDD patch out there but this refere to "wrong" files. You need to patch that game file by file your self. How ever, you can use the included default.xbe.

good greetings all i was given a version 1.0 XBox with a Xecuter 2.6 ModChip it has a controller underneath so you can boot either original XBox dash or the EvolutionX (probably like a partition thing) I couldn’t get FTP to work so used a memory card slot to get CHIMP to clone the drive BUT none of the games or applications carry over to the new dive? there is 70 OG XBOX games and like every available skin ever made for EvolutionX but there not on the new 500gig Western Digital? The settings and skin have copied but none of the files. I don’t want to keep writing again/again to the drive as it was not brand new when I got it i am slightly above n00b level but am comfortable in any instructions you give me file system looks normal in explorer C:// D:// Empty E:// F:// G:// S:// Q://

Xbox original controller modded communicator shell with power button and USB port.... This requires modifications to be done to the console for this to function with the power button. USB port works as is. make sure you Google what this is before you ask me any questions. $20 USA Shipped. Cash App or PayPal goods and services only

Hi all, First of all, I'd like to thank Rocky5 and all involved in the softmodding tool, that really is a painless way to softmod. 18 years ago I was reading unofficial magazines on Xbox mods and was baffled by all that's possible and I'm glad I can start doing similar stuff thanks to you! I'm seeking help in the following problem, I posted this on Reddit but maybe you guys will have a better idea of what's going on here. I have seen several topics with the same problems over different boards but have yet to find a solution. I hope you guys don't mind. I've been stuck on this for the past few days. I'm trying to clone my hard drive (Seagate ST310211A, the 10GB one). I've tried using a WD3200AAJS, which was listed as working on x-pecs by multiple accounts, but haven't had luck as it returns Error 11 (missing/malfunctioning dvd drive). I know for a fact the drive is fine because when I plug everything back together with the stock drive, the console boots properly. Now, the WD is rated for 0.68A at 5v and 12v, so I looked up the current rating for the stock Seagate, which is here : Since the WD was quite a bit higher I took another hard drive I had lying around (Hitachi HTB-DS7AE100(B) ). Now I hadn't seen anything telling me this drive would be lockable or anything but I gave it a try nonetheless. Chimp recognized it fine and the clone went smoothly and it locked okay. The drive is rated for 0.42A for both 5 and 12v, so I thought it'd work better now. Still no luck as I get error 11 again. I do have a new 80 wire 40 pin cable, and am using the startech adaptor. The cable works fine with the stock drive, and the startech adaptor has good reputation, so I'm really at a loss here. Jumper switched back from slave to master (forgot it once and had error 7 this time). Can it be the hard drive drawing too much current and not leaving enough for the dvd drive? Dvd drive tray opens and closes even with error 11, everything's plugged in tight. I'm really at a loss here so any help is greatly appreciated, even if it's just 'buy this HDD, it works fine with the startech adaptor' !

I've got 2 xboxes, one X3 with the inbuilt menu and one slim no-dvd xbox. I'm getting deja vu that I've had this problem before and managed to solve it. In the X3: - It powers on, I was able to get into the X3 menu by holding the white controller button, no issues. - But I wasn't able to get into my dashboard (i know it works, I used it a few months back - and I can see the game titles / menu titles on the LCD screen) - I remembered the issue was something to do with the region/video mode not matching, so I think I switched the region to PAL 480i initially directly via the X3 menu and managed to get into the dashboard. All my games etc everything is working fine, but only in 480i now. - So I go to enigmah X and switch back to NTSC thinking this would allow me to go back to 720p, no dice, now the X3 menu won't show up (again, I can see it loading correctly via the LCD screen, there's just no video out) - I tried switching to a SCART cable to try "force" PAL mode again, and I can see via OSSC's readout that i'm getting 480i but again there's no video out. What can I do here? I vaguely recall that using a composite cable somehow hardware-forced it back to default 480i and fixed this issue. The slim: - Powers on, loads up, works fine, OSSC says 720p out, can't see anything obviously wrong with it - The picture is blurry. Literally just very blurry. I've tried switching back and forth between 480/720p and it's still extremely blurry, I really can't explain why. Last time I used it the picture was crystal clear. Please help you guys!

My original Xbox as one of the first ever modded Xbox's when the Matrix BIOS leaked on IRC. Before any commercial mod chips were out. It's flashed on a old EPROM. The downside of that was I was never able to flash the BIOS as they evolved over the years, so no bigger HDD for me. 20 years later I got a 2nd Xbox and read up on TSOP flashing and have had good fun putting a new HDD and loading it up,

Hello Wondering if anyone else has issues with wingman xb not working with xenium launch menu or xblast menu? Using wingman and wireless 360 controller I get no response from the controller with xenium or xblast os. Assuming this must be driver issue as retail and other bios I've tried work fine..

Something I've noticed when copying games over is that some files with particularly long file names, such as fem_shirts_quicksilver_hoodie_logo2_d.img.xbx from Tony Hawk's Project 8, fail to transfer over. Ultimately I've never found that a game stops working when something like this happens. My question is, if these file names are too long for the Xbox filesystem, how were the textures ever loaded from the disc when playing from a DVD drive? It's something I've wondered for a while now.

I like CDs. I will not stand for any audio with a lower bitrate than 1400Mbps. I have recently tried to rip my CDs in .WAV format, just because I want lossless encoding and playback of the files. However, when I try to play whole albums, instead of seamlessly transitioning into the next track, it will lag HARD and display the spinning "working" thing at the bottom of the screen. It will take 10-30 seconds to start the next song. However, if I just manually copy the .CDDA files off of the disc, the playback is seamless all throughout the album. It's perfect I haven't had my box connected to the internet, but I will soon. My question is, is there a way I can rip audio to the HDD in a format that will not have issues with seamless playback and in a way that will download all the CD info from a database when my box is finally connected? I mean, I guess I could wait for the internet and then manually find out through trial and error. But fuck that. If you guys have any experience in this, I would appreciate your input.

I've been writing and tweaking my UnleashX config for about a day or so and I think I have every feature that I personally want from my dashboard. The only issue is with the DVD copy function. It works as expected, except that when it is selected without a disc in the drive, it completes instantly and still says that ripping the disc was successful. I'd like to throw an error MessageBox if this is the case just to make it a bit more presentable. Do any XML wizards know if there's a way to check if there's a disc in the drive? Any help is greatly appreciated. <List Text="Copy Disc to HDD" Sort="Off" Batch="True"> <Item Action="AskUser" Arg1="Copy Disc To HDD">Proceed with copying the disc to the HDD?\nThe directory will be written to F:\games\[Title]</Item> <Item Action="CopyDVD">Error: failed to copy disc. The disc may be dirty or damaged</Item> <Item Action="TrayOpen"/> <Item Action="MessageBox" Arg1="Complete">Disc successfully copied to HDD!\nPlease remove the disc before continuing.</Item> <Item Action="TrayClose"/> </List> config.xml

I got an xbox v1.0 motherboard with an xecuter 2.3 pro modchip that was not working. I took it apart and found the d0 wire was loose, so I resoldered that connection and hooked everything up and the system ran fine for about 4 hours, at which point I powered everything down and went to bed. this morning I go to power on the unit and the blue lights on the modchip light up and the fans spin for a second, but no lights on the front panel and nothing else happens. the capacitors on the power supply and near the psu connector on the motherboard all look fine. not sure what else to check, so any help would be appreciated. Also, the clock cap was removed before I got the xbox, presumably when the modchip was originally installed VID_20220223_031845379.3gp

For some reason when I turn on the Xbox I am greeted with the error code 05 (unlocked hard drive). But I thought an unlocked hard drive was usable with a mod chip installed? - Re-soldered the wires from the D0 point, BT point mod chip flashed red, BT is joined to the mod chip so it is always on. Despite all of this the Xbox boots up displaying the error code 05. and no sign of the chip working its magic. Thanks, Pez.

Hello together! (Sorry for my bad englisch i‘m from austria) A bit of a forword: My name is Markus and i'm from vienna in austria. I'm 23 years old. I grew up with late PS1, PS3, Xbox One/X and Series X. As an hobby i collected video game consoles (MS, Sony, Nintendo, Sega), as well as clean/service them. I realized that i didnt have the time to play them all, so i reduced the collection a bit. I have a special place in my heart for the OG Xbox, because i was always fascinated how the modding scene is still active and cares for the console. So i had the idea to „rebuild“ or „build“ my first console…..and i wanted to be an OG Xbox. My contact with that console, is restricted to having a stock 1.6 and later a softmodded (Splintercell-Softmod) one. But i sold them long ago. But after the last years 20th anniversary of the OG Xbox i saw that as a good time to make „the wish come true“. So here is how it goes: First i had to upgrade my tools, so i bought some tools to do the work properly. I solder/work on other things for a long time now, but for the future (to work on console/motherboards etc.) i bought a desoldering station, a smd hot-air soldering station and a new soldering iron. (A better soldering station is on the way.) I bought some tools like new iFixit kits, painter knifes, tweezer sets and much more: The case/the outer shell comes from a near mint/barley used Crystal Edition 1.6. (I killed the motherboard because of working with inproper tools ) The technical Basis is from a old 2004 1.4 Xbox. I bought it with a defect drive, just for the old motherboard revision. (I want to go for the older revision because its easier to mod, better mod support and for further upgrades not possible with the 1.6) As you see, on this board a few caps are balged and defect. (The badest ones are those around the CPU and the silver 1500uf ones.) I bought a 1.6 recap kit a long time ago and i realized around 80-90% of the caps are usable for the 1.4 aswell. So i recaped the motherboard. In the same time i installed, the pinheader for the LPC port and grounded D0. I also resoldered everything because i dont were satisified with the solder joints. I repasted the GPU/CPU with Arctic MX-4 and installed the headspreader and the brackets for it. The next step was to install the new Noctua 60mm Fan with the help of a 3D printed mounting bracket. Aswell as install the motherboard, psu etc. for a test. I serviced/cleaned the drive of the mint/ barley used 1.6 and installed a new belt. I installed the original HDD for the first test/bootup. I tested it and it boots right up (I was really relieved that it did )! Here are the next steps i will/want to do: Install a WD 500GB with 80 wire IDE cable and IDE/Sata Adapter. Install the custom dashboard/software etc. Install a custom made 20th anniversary edition Jewel on the Xbox and the controllers. (Will take some time until they arrive) Install 128MB of Ram (i dont really use it, but i want to do the installation out of interest. But this will also take some delivery time) "Install/Use" of Bitfunx Xbox2HDMI adapter Paint the button board (the one in the front) black/matte black Work to the metal shield? (Questions following) So up to my question....its about the metal shielding. I know its for signal noise reduction....but i saw a few clear case mods on that forum where they removed the complete shield. Is it possible without troubles/problems? If not, i thought about the idea to only remove the top shield and paint the lower one inside and out in black/matte black. (With sanding the paint of the grounding points.) Whats the better option? Or is it better to just paint the complete top/lower shield on the outside and leavet it that way....(with the complete shield in the console) Also what is your opinion of my first console motherboard work/ first console modding?

Hi all. I was going through some stuff at the weekend and I came across my old OG Xbox that I won on a radio competition in the UK. It’s the Tony Hawks Underground 2 one and with it I got a skateboard deck that has the same artwork painted on it. I’m really not sure what I want to do with it but I have seen that it is quite rare as some sites say there’s only 10 of them but nowhere can I see mentioned the skateboard I hardly played it but did get an xecuter 2 chip fitted to it. I’ve tested it and all is still working, unfortunately I don’t have the box anymore. What could it be worth and is there somewhere other then EBay where these things get sold?? Regards Mark

Mainly what the titel say's. I have an X-Charger 2.5 with Lattice LC4064V on it and I wonder if would be possible to switch the chip to XBlast OS.

just want to plug and play

Some time back I bought a board with the 1.4 interposer mod already installed but unfortunately didn’t have time to mess with it until now. Checked his GitHub and saw references that say XBMC will always report 1.4 regardless of the switch setting. Is there a way I can confirm if the switch is actually switching between 733 and 1.4? I tried several retail games from disc without patching which I understand should have issues but both worked with the switch on or off. I also verified the blue led on the interposer stays on regardless of switch setting. thanks in advance

Hi, i've read over at reddit that there is some new Beta of UIX Lite which has an integrated FTP Server. Anyone know where to get this version? Eventually someone can enlighten me what those "usual places" are Thanks, Egon

Hello guys, I just updated the fan of my Xbox and want to set now the default value of the fan to 100%. Unfortunately I don't have a Windows machine to edit the evox.m8plus.v16.fc.137.bin. If someone can tell me how to edit it on a Mac I'm also can also change it myself. Thanks for your help. Regards Nikolaj

Hello, Just finished doing my first 128mb upgrade on a 1.0 xbox. Overall it wasn't too bad just had to take my time. Used xblast os to make sure all chips were good and let it run for a while and let everything heat up.. everything is good.. Next step was to flash regular bios back to the tsop replacing xblast bios. Got netflash going and loaded up a 1mb x5035... progress bar completed then the xbox rebooted... on reboot I accidentally bumped the power button shutting the xbox off... not sure if I screwd up the flash by bumping the power button or if there was an issue with the bios file I used... Now when powering up the xbox the power cycles a couple times then flashes red/ green with no video output.. I do have a couple Aladin chips around here somewhere I should be able to flash and use but I was just wondering if there is any way to save the on-board flash chip? I seem to recall reading about some modified m7 bios that may allow saving on-board flash but I'm assuming the modified bios would only work with certain bios on the tsop... Can anyone please confirm if I can save the tsop or am I stuck with a modchip on this box? Took my time installing the ram chips only to rush the bios flash... sooo stupid

I fixed my water damaged xbox today with a lot of help and pointers from some of the guys here. Basically my xbox was water damaged a few years ago, after a long time drying out I turned it on and it would only stay on for about 20 minutes before shutting itself off. I never really planned on fixing it as I have many replacements but today I noticed that the fan was dead and I replaced it, now it seems to be working fine. What led me to do this was another issue, I had forgotten about the damage earlier this week and booted the console up to grab some files, anyway the console shut itself down a few times while I was going about some other things around the house. I don't know much about electricity, basically just hot, neutral and ground, that's about it. So I was thinking about how I had this damaged xbox plugged into a power strip with several other consoles and whether this damaged xbox could damage other consoles sharing its powerstrip if used. Now I have been told by the higher ups here that it is not a problem, but I would like to know why. Basically how does a (specifically 1.6) xbox deal with electrical problems, whether it is a short, water damage, any electrical issues. What prevents it from damaging other consoles that share a power strip or power plug? I know the xbox does not have a grounding prong so what prevents any excess charge traveling to other systems? My xbox had a dead fan which I would assume shorted out from water damage, how does that factor? (specifically a 1.6 xbox) Many thanks guys for all your help and I hope I am not being a pain.

I have several boards (1.0, 1.1 & 1.4) that will not power up with a known good power supply. Capacitors all look good and there are no visible signs of damage or component failure anywhere. Are there typical failure points that I should check? Would it be worth it to replace the power caps anyway? Thanks for any help. I hate to ditch these boards or just use them for parts.