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  1. Has anyone replaced a controllers cable before? I've got 2 controllers that play up, If I bend the cable in a certain spot they both work, it's damage inside the cable right up near where it goes into the controller, I wrap them in lots of tape and they stay working as the cable can't bend then. I ordered some replacement cables from Aliexpress thinking I'd just swap them over, yet the Aliexpress cables only have 4 wires, and my controllers have 6. This is the replacement cables I bought, I bought a few of them so I'd have spares. I see in the feedback from buyers people have made them work by soldering the yellow wire on the cable to the location of the green wire, here is a couple of photos where people have done it Does this seem right? Am I safe to do this and not blow my USB ports on my Xbox when I plug it in? Will it work as its meant to with 2 wires missing? Seems odd.
  2. Found a good cable at the right price. This is my 1st time doing this so want to ensure I don't get the wrong thing. Can anyone confirm this is the correct cable for the cable upgrade? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/285945357382?_skw=40-Pin+80-Wire+Ultra+ATA+2-Drive+Ribbon+Cable&itmmeta=01J8FJNTK17R82D1ZCRYBY15EN&hash=item4293abe446:g:yyEAAOSwn79miQYA&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA8HoV3kP08IDx%2BKZ9MfhVJKm7iQbBnl8fbU52nphsfcwuAH31NaccGcUbV80i4JT902JWYi6f4XgAav7Xybkxh1nxEmx63PsR38SqwGwENGp7DTRE3m4H6f0AhMfeEom2EU0mRVj9TTuwmtUl6uPhmVFuEO51x%2B0sBMynTSTKHBWvl%2BZnkE5B4LTOj9bZj1yh6D17INxfH4%2B1L%2FzOqeL5lXFnpHxCNDJ5%2FJmSQ8cYLaxhS1s0aUcQJ4SXR0CWhj88TrZ%2FSk%2FbFas%2FO8OF%2FJ36KPcBkilHyXkb2%2BXk3Cbv59RMRHmkOumHImHfqEueFkznUw%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR8qp1_LDZA
  3. Hi all, Thought I would offer these out as they are sitting round doing nothing, bought the adapters and cables in bulk a while back and upgraded the adapters (100ohm resistor installed to R4 giving good boot times), used most but still have 5 kits available, comes with: 1 x brand new ATA 133 IDE Round Cable 1 x M03C IDE/Sata Adapter with 100 Ohm resistor pre-soldered at r4 The cables come with the rubber protectors near each IDE connector, I personally cut these off for ease of installation. £15 per kit plus postage (£17.50 posted)
  4. I'm so proud so far I'm a totall newbie to soldering but i just did my first succesfull total refurb of a transluent 1.4 box (full recap mobo, powersupply and DVD player, new cooler paste & pin header mod chip install) and it still works hahaha but i'm unable to find the location where the D0 cable needs to be soldered to the 1.4 mobo (i believe its called the Xbox motherboard D0 point) to let the Openxenium chip to work fully. I know i'm probly overseeing this but is there a picture where i should solder this to the the mobo? i see a lot of 1.0 and 1.6 YT clips but none for the 1.4 Thanks !!!
  5. does anyone know them Colors from the original Xbox cable as connected to the Wii HDMI adapter. The member MisterED has provided the housing but also how it is soldered and which color goes where. sorry for the translation.(google)
  6. Loose cable from modchip, where should it be?
  7. Hi Everyone, i'm currently offering these replacement cables in an effort to bring back to life as many original xbox Microsoft branded controllers as possible! This cable includes a 5 pin connector so it has all of the data lines that the xbox cable uses. It's a simple replacement, just de-solder the existent pin connector, and put this in it's place. This is a full length cord, includes the breakaway, ferrite cores, strain relief etc. It can also be used as a replacement on most (maybe all) of the cheap aftermarket controllers if you want to be able to use sit further from your monitor/TV. The new connector inserts vertically, the old one lays on it's side, this has no effect on the shell. There is one other difference i will point out for complete transparency. The original xbox controller uses 5 data lines, and has 1 chunky stranded line of shielding that is soldered as a 6th pin. These do not have that 6th pin. For comparison, the cheap aftermarket controllers use 4 pins in their wiring (missing the yellow wire), have no breakaway cable, and are only 5-6 feet in length. These ship from the US, and currently listed at $5.99 per cable. I do have a shopify store for easy payment options, but will not link that here until i have permission to do so. If you are interested, please drop a comment and feel free to PM me. Bulk rates are an option, just have to figure out the best method of shipping whatever qty it is you may be interested in.
  8. As the title says. I have a console that sometime experiences a random power down. I have left the console running for ages on its own and the power down has not happened, then I have been just flicking around in PrometheOS or XBMC4Gamers for a few moments and the console has shut down. This console has been recapped and has no issues booting up at all. However the controller I have been using has a split in the cable right at the top where it joins the cable relief before going into the controller itself. Could this cause a short that causes the console to power down. I am running Cerbios which has a button combo to power down the console and wondered if it could this that is triggering. Pic of cable split for reference... If its not this what else could it be?? I'm stumped lol EDIT - So I have narrowed it down. Its nothing to do with the controller, it only seems to happen with in either the PrometheOS dash OR XBMC4Gamers. It can happen in seconds or it can happen after 15 mins, its totally random. As a test I left the console running with a game playing for 2 hours and no power down. Leaving it on either dash will eventually power down. I have checked and XBMC shutdown timer is OFF.
  9. Hey everyone. So, I find myself in a unique situation. I will try to break down my problem as simply as possible: ::I have an S-Type (small) Original Xbox controller with a bad cable. I only have this one controller. ::I do not have a breakaway cable to connect the controller to the Xbox, BUT I have an Xbox controller port to female USB port cable. (pictured here: https://ibb.co/wJTTYfL ) My question is this: could I desolder the Xbox controller cable from the controller board and solder on a USB cable with a standard type-A (male) USB connector to connect to the Xbox, through the pictured-above female USB port?
  10. Looking to replace my ide drive with a sata drive, I have the startech adaptor and a molex splitter, only question is my 80wire ide cable won't be here till may 7th, ordered a https://a.co/d/2qL1JSJ cable they seem to be on back order, can I use my 40wire ide until that one gets here, wanna go ahead and swap the drive and get my stuff transfered
  11. So I ordered a Pound HDMI Cable for my Xbox because my Sony Bravia 850h TV has NO COMPONENT hookups! I really don't mind low resolution when im OG Gaming, but the only TV in my house that has components is in my bedroom and that is not where everyone games. Unboxing the Pound HDMI Cable and hooking it up, I immediately had video drop outs every 5-15 seconds it didn't matter if it was dashboard, games, anything. I also had wavy lines. This was WITH the microusb plugged in and powered. Things i tried: 1) all different HDMI ports 2) different HDMI cables 3) microusb using powered adapter 4) microusb plugged into TV Nothing fixed it, so I recorded and sent my info to pound. Their customer service is top notch and they sent me a new cable. This is where things get interesting. New cable, FLAWLESS HD Video, no lines, nothing! Looks amazing on the dashboard, loaded up CoinOps8 PERFECT, then I started Fable and immediately got drop outs. UGH! I did a lot of testing and I believe the first cable was a hardware issue. The new cable I now believe it is an issue with Sony 4k TV's. The drop out does not occur on ANY 720p+ games: Soul Caliber 2, Nitro cart racing, Tony hawk Underground etc. I have tried EVERYTHING I can think of and am at my wits end. I wonder if Chimera or XBOX2HDMI will have the same issues on my TV. I am really thinking at this point the only real solution is the XBOXHD+ upgrade, but i was really hoping not to shell out 140$ as thats almost the cost of my entire mod, and I would like to keep the case as close to original as possible. Ideas/thoughts? Dashboard - NEW CABLE https://drive.google.com/file/d/1_V5lpQHS1kthf_ItQCE8xTvvxNZ-cJIR/view?usp=drivesdk Fable(not 720) NEW CABLE https://drive.google.com/file/d/1_GwN9ItYl2auE4bt9KUmFxkbBG712OYt/view?usp=drivesdk Tony hawk underground (720) NEW CABLE https://drive.google.com/file/d/1_SbNQVKtSctsCnHYc4cnUh4mq8cff8IS/view?usp=drivesdk
  12. I had to do some maintenance on my disk drive, but now my SSD is asking to format and the key is all bugged, is this a problem with my SSD (maybe fake), or does this happen every time you remove the cables IDE? (I'm using SSD on Xbox for the first time)
  13. Hello Xbox friends. I plan to play Shenmues 1 to 3 (father of all open world games by Yu Suzuki and SEGA) on macOS and Windows and want to use a controller that's as close to the Dreamcast as possible (I understand the Xbox is popularly known as the spiritual successor of the Dreamcast with Microsoft collaborating on Windows CE on the Dreamcast), also I like that it's big and won't cramp my hands but will an Xbox 360 USB breakaway cable work with the Xbox "Duke" controller flawlessly? Do they have the same exact pinouts? Thank you in advance. God bless, Revelation 21:4
  14. Recently had two Philips DVD drives stop reading discs so I opened them up, disconnected all of the internal ribbon cables so I could try and pot tweak. When I reassembled them and powered it up again, I got the error 12 code. I've tested the IDE cable as currently connected with other DVD drives and it works fine so its not the cable or connection so I figure it has to be something I did when reconnecting the three internal DVD ribbon cables and the internal power cable. I was able to boot into an XBOX that had the DVD drive check bypassed via Cerbios so I could access UnleashX to check system information / DVD information. The DVD region showed up but every other DVD category just showed an italic "I". Does anybody have a pic of the bottom side of a Philips VAD 6011/21 (POS) DVD mobo that shows its internal DVD ribbon connections properly seated / how far the ribbon cables go in....or maybe have any other ideas as to the reason why I'm suddenly popping Error 12? (again, its not an ide cable connection issue, that has been ruled out). Thanks!
  15. Here is a step by step tutorial for making a high quality component cable using an Xbox 360 component cable and a standard original Xbox Composite AV cable that pretty much everyone will have. I was looking for an original Xbox component cable recently and my options were a cheap Chinese non brand component cable, a monster cable or an official HD kit. The latter being crazy expensive nowadays. Since I have a background in electronics I thought why not make one from a 360 cable if a standard AV cable has all the pins present but not wired. I did a quick Google and I am not the first to have done this but thought I'd throw up this step by step for anyone who isn't afraid of some small soldering. You could just splice a 360 component cable onto a Chinese component cable but this way you have a pretty much official cable that is very high quality.. Here goes. Get yourself a 360 component cable and a standard AV cable with the 3 RCA plugs, red, white and yellow. . Cut the head off your original Xbox AV cable. Take a hair dryer to it now to make the plastic sleeve malleable and remove the sleeve from around the socket. Use a screwdriver to help pry it off if needs be. It should come pretty easy but don't be too rough as we want to get it back on at the end. Now loosen off the clasps around the cable by prying them out with a screwdriver and then with a long nose pliers if needed. Again don't go too mad as we will need to squeeze these back on at the end. Now you should be able to remove half this casing. The socket itself with the pins will still be secured inside. Update: before opening the metal casing as per the following instructions and image you can actually remove the pin connector without opening it, you can push the pin connector out. This is the preferred method but I am leaving the previous instructions here. Now take a long nose pliers and carefully separate the remaining casing. Do this carefully and slowly just enough so you can remove the pin housing. The less you bend this the nicer it will look at the end. Take note of the way the two sides lock into each other. The little tabs click in from the top. So grab the side with the tab and pull up. So pull up the right hand side then turn it around and again pull up the right hand side. Patience, remember this has to go back together. Try to open this up less than I have here if you can. Don't worry about the black shield cables soldered on to the casing. We will be removing these anyway. Once you get the pins out if you're lucky you'll just have a piece of black tape over the pins. If you're unlucky you'll have a blob of hot glue over them both sides. Don't despair....you can get this off with some small effort. If you are met with the glue you can again soften it with a hair dryer and get a screwdriver and gouge the majority of it off carefully. I would then get some sticky stuff remover and spray it on and leave it for 5 minutes. Then carefully scrape lengthways down along each pin with the corner of your small flathead screwdriver until it is all gone. Take your time and make sure it's all off. This is the stuff I use for that. Here is the pins that the lucky people will get with the tape. Lovely clean pins straight from the factory. Now take your 360 component cable and cut the head off this just below it's socket and get the sleeve off your original Xbox socket and put it onto your 360 cable. Just keep turning it until it goes on. It's pretty much the exact fit. And a second time...PUT THE SLEEVE ON YOUR 360 CABLE BEFORE YOU START TO SOLDER!!! You do not want that sinking feeling when you've just done lots of tedious work to find you've to de-solder everything because you forgot to put the sleeve on. Now take a sharp knife and about 2 inches back from the end score a ring around the insulation. Take your time and bend it a bit and let the sharp knife do the work. Don't go mad here. You want all of the shields inside to be intact. Again. Patience. You'll be met with a load of cables with a braided shield around them. The cable with the colour is the signal every time and the shield wrapped around it is that signals ground. It is possible you could find two cables, a signal and ground both insulated and not braided shields. Either way it's the same thing and actually easier if you don't have the braided ones because the braids are trickier to solder because they are bigger. You will also have some white fibres up the middle. Cut these off. And an overall screen, the one that's on it's own. Don't cut this off. For each cable push the braid down a bit to loosen it and make a hole as near the base as you can by separating the braid and pull the coloured cable through. Then pull the braid and twist it nice and tight without breaking it. The idea is to get it as thin as you can. When you've separated each signal from it's screen measure it against the length of cable already soldered onto the original Xbox pins and give yourself a bit extra and cut them all. Strip the ends of each signal. Only about 3 or 4mm and be careful not to pull out strands while stripping the insulation. Make sure there are on stray strands by giving the ends a little twist and tin the ends and also tin about a half inch or so of each braided screen. Try keep them tight with no loose strands. To tin put a small bit of solder on your iron and use this to heat up the wire and flow the solder with the transferred heat of the wire, not the iron. This makes the strands basically into a solid cable. Now desolder all on the cables from your original Xbox pins. Also I highly recommend you use Weller solder or similar decent quality solder as it will make life easier than using cheap stuff. Now to the good stuff. I have taken this diagram from an online search and did not create it myself. It is the best diagram out there and credit to the Creator. I will find the name of the guy on YouTube that has done this and credit him. So you have already tinned your cable ends and braided screens. Now you want to go and tin each pin you will be using. Just a tiny bit of solder and heat the pin for a second. Do not stay on the pins with your iron for anything over 2 seconds or you'll melt plastic. Take your time. Everything one by one. When you've tinned all the pins all you need to do for every solder joint is put a tiny bit on your iron and press down gently and the tinned cable will marry into the tinned pin. Do not use extra solder, no need. The tiny bit I suggest for your iron is simply to transfer the heat. Go ahead and tin pins 1, 2, 6, 7, 9, 10, 11, 12, 14, 15, 18, 19, 21 and 22. That is for audio right and left signals and grounds, two jumpers for the mode and red, green and blue signal and grounds. To note the connector I've used here is one that was covered in hot glue so it looks a bit bashed up but is electrically sound. Audio right - red to pin 1 and it's ground to pin 2. Also make 2 small jumper wires and tin them as previously. Solder these as shown to pins 6 and 7. Bend the jumper wires around to the other side and solder pin 6 jumper to pin 18 and pin 7 jumper to pin 19. Ignore that strand to the right, that is the overall screen and it's not soldered to a pin, just a bad picture. Blue signal to 9 and it's ground to 10. Green signal to 11 and it's ground to 12. Audio left - white signal to 14 and it's ground to 15. Be careful that you don't mix up the pink with the white, they look very very similar. Last but not least the pink signal wire to 22 and it's ground to 21. Careful with this one. All the rest were 'signal, ground' and this one is 'ground, signal'. Tape up the yellow cable. Nice to have a spare socket at the end of your cable so you can fix this in years to come if one of the rca plugs every gets broken you can solder the yellow up instead. Take the yellows ground and twist the thin overall ground wire around it. Bend it as shown and then tin them together with some solder. We will use this to ground the metal housing on the plug. Scratch up this part on the plug housing with a screwdriver. Now turn your iron up a touch if needed and flow solder onto the part you just scratched up. Solder the screen from the yellow that we tinned together with the overall screen to this part of the case. Cut a strip of electrical tape. The width of standard electrical tape is perfect to cover the pins. I recommend you do this instead of hot glue to insulate the pins. At this point plug it in to your OGXbox and see does it all look good. (Troubleshooting tips at the bottom of this post if it doesn't look quite right) Put this guy back into the other part on the plugs housing and carefully crimp back on the cable grips after around the outer insulation. If you were careful taking apart your plug top earlier you will be happy right about now. If you weren't don't worry, just get a long nose pliers and carefully form it all back together. Remember these tabs click in from the top. They won't sit right if you try click them in from the under side so you'll have to do a touch of light convincing with a long nose pliers again. Be careful of the pins inside now. Don't want to break it now after all of that. Don't lose the cool once they are almost snug you can put a bit of pressure on the tabs with a screwdriver to secure the housing. Once it is fairly solid slide your sleeve back down to cover it up. Now what you have is a top quality fully Microsoft component cable for your OGXbox. In my opinion it's better quality by a mile than the old HD kit and and the monster cable. It's also two fingers up to the cretins that want 70 quid for a cable. You'll get a brand new 360 component cable for around the price of one of those horrendous terribly shielded Chinese component cables and everyone has an AV composite 3 plug standard cable lying around. Also the 360 cable is about 2 metres long. Hope this is of some use to someone. I originally threw a few of them pictures up on the Facebook group but thought I'd post it up here as a reference for anyone who is interested. TROUBLESHOOTING: When you have finished soldering all of the pins do a continuity test with your multi-meter between each pin that are next to each other, You may have one strand from the shield bridging the pin next to it. If this is the case you can try run a sharp knife between the pins to separate any stray strands. A quick multi-meter test is to test between each tip of each RCA plug to the pin you soldered for that signal on the plug. Also check the tip of each against ground (outer ring or barrel the of RCA) make sure there is nothing bridged out. Note that all ground will be connected together. If you plug it in to your OGXbox and it doesn't look right, go back and check each cable you soldered against the diagram again and if needs be reflow any dodgy joints. If you plug it in to your OGXbox and you are missing a colour again go back and check your wiring/soldering. The colours are RGB (Red = Pink cable, Green = Green cable, Blue = Blue cable) For example if you see only Greens and Blues when you load up a game the issue is with your Red colour (Pink cable) and you may have mixed up the ground and signal. The same is true for any colour you seem to be missing. Also do a test of the Audio Right and Left by plugging one out at a time and see do you still have sound. Any issues, the fix will be as above, re-check your wiring against the diagram and re-flow if necessary. Try the cable with a game you know well so you know how it should look colour wise. If it all looks and sounds good close it all back up and enjoy!! Note also that there is a perfectly good optical audio pcb inside the Xbox 360 head, maybe someone could have a go getting that usable. You can also connect the yellow to pin 24 and it's ground to 23 instead of connecting ground to the overall screen and leaving yellow spare. I rather keep it as a spare, means your cable will last long into the future and I don't ever plan on using it as a regular yellow, red and white composite.
  16. I softmodded and then tsopped my original xbox. Before doing this I made a custom component cable which worked great with all my games and the stock dashboard. In one of the menu's during the softmod process the screen went crazy (kind of looks like a sink issue, the screen is squashed and scrolling across rapidly, impossible to tell what is on screen). I plugged in the composite cable and finished up the process and then TSOP'ed it. Now when I boot with the component cable the bios flubber animation works perfectly but the screen goes nuts when I get to unleasheX despite changing the video settings to NTSC-M, no to 480p-720p-1080i- enable pal, no to faster refresh rate. what could be causing this? EDIT: SOLUTION FOUND because the xbox restarts when video cable is reconnected I had to write down the button presses required to get to ms dashboard while using composite, then swith to component, follow the button presses, stock dashboard worked, go into settings and disable all high resolutions, and then restart. everythings fine now and I hope this helps others with the same issue
  17. hey everyone does anyone know where to find a 80pin ide cable that is the same as the original in terms of shape etc?
  18. Hey everyone, apologies if this is in the wrong place. I recently bought a component cable from eBay, the ones made from a 360 component cable and standard ogxbox composite. I downloaded enigmah-x and changed from pal to ntsc, enabled 480 and 720p. I plugged it in and there’s a weird green tint to everything. The Xbox splash screen seems ok (the evox logo doesn’t appear greener) but the xbmc menu does. Anybody have any ideas what could be causing this? The composite cable works fine. I even turned up the red setting on my tv but that just made everything orange. I love electronics, why don’t they feel the same? Why can’t I just blow into something and it work? I miss my nes. Thanks again, Rob
  19. I was browsing eBay to buy a cable as suggested, as prices of Startech are way too high for me and I have already a cheap adapter (green one, that seems to make the HDD run and "buzz" as usual, red led turns on, but no identification of HDD by SlayerEvox installer... that just pretends to format and install in some seconds all the contents then says "Done" but actually not). What "magic words" (meaning requirements) should be checked to find the right one ? For example, are this or this ok? What makes them different from the original Xbox cable (just a curiosity) ?
  20. I just resurrected a "for parts" xbox from ebay, and after replacing cpu caps, tsop flash etc, I was able to get it working. The issue I am having though is that the only cable that will work on it is my component cable. No other cable will work. I have tried both a third party AV cable and an original one, both do the same thing. I also have a xhox to hdmi dongle which will also not display any output on this xbox. Has anyone got any idea what is going on here?
  21. Are you looking for a digital optical cable? Here you will find everything you need. SF Cable's best-selling Digital Optical Cables are listed here. You can find a wide range of digital audio/video cables at discounted prices here. Order Online!
  22. Hi all I have a PAL mod chipped original Xbox with UnleashX dashboard and I'm using a component cable with NTSC enabled for 720P and they both work great together using component on my plasma TV but now I have an old CRT TV but the downside is it only has composite and scart so I would like to make a scart cable that plugs from my CRT TV that will have female RCA plugs on the other end so I can plug my component cable from the Xbox to this made scart cable, I would also use this scart cable to plug my PlayStation 2 into using a component cable. The question I have is because scart uses RGB do I simply wire the RGB red, green and blue from the scart "R,G,B input" to the corosponding red, green, blue of the component cable with the ground going to the ground pins of the RBG? And because the CRT TV I have upscales everything to 16:9 (it has no 4:3 capability) do I need to jumper pin 8 and 16 to make the switching mode to 16:9 as I run my Xbox at 720p with NTSC(U?) Will the jumper if needed at all for pin 8 to 16 need a resistor? Here's what I'm thinking for the male scart cable pinout: PIN of male scart: -to RCA 2 = Audio input R - to RCA Audio R 4 = Audio ground - to both RCA L&R 5 = Blue ground - to RCA blue ground 6 = Audio input L - to RCA audio L 7 = Blue - to RCA blue 8 = Status (16:9 linked to pin 16) 9 = Green ground - to RCA green ground 11 = Green - to RCA green 13 = Red ground - to RCA red ground 15 = Red - to RCA red 16 = RGB Status (linked to pin 8) the remaining pins are not used unless I missed something
  23. I made some homemade og xbox component cables using og xbox av cables and xbox 360 component cables. At first the homemade cables didn't work as I had read the diagram backward. Eventually it worked with what I assumed was fine colors until I took some comparison photos. Once going into xbmc, I noticed that colors were missing, specifically green and red. I've checked all the connections with a multimeter to make sure they go to the correct output. I also checked with a multimeter to make sure nothing was bridged. Everything appears "fine". https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1p4oX9jJtl0ok6f0cWt4hHe7HL04pc1k8?usp=sharing That's some photos showing a comparison photo of my pound hdmi vs my homemade component cables and the connector itself for the component cables. Any advice on what could be happening would be appreciated. edit: Everything is ntsc, incase that's relevant information
  24. Has anyone tested different cat cables ie cat4 vs say cat8? If so is there issues with using one vs the other?
  25. I’m having a difficult time finding a replacement flex cable connecting the laser to the pcb. Sumitomo G Awm 2896 80c Vw 1 20 Pin. If anyone has an old dead drive or can help me find this, I would greatly appreciate it.

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