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How do I add the cover art for the games? I have tried and failed. I have tried placing them in the media file and also in the artwork file but nothing works. Do I need to add them in the config settings in the emulator? Thanks

I have for sale a black x3cp and x3 fully tested. It's a spare as I also have a crystal version. 375 I have tg and email Tg 9082836787 [email protected]

So i'm new but not new to this and just got back into it after a very long time away and have been skimming through here and google for help. I recently modded my xbox, installed cerbios and I am using xbmx4gamers dash. I installed the fan art installer and it works for the xbox games but when i go over to the emulators it doesnt show any art work. Is there a specific emulator for these art works to pair with the fan art installer? The only emulators I have installed so far is nestopiax, pcsxbox and snes9box. I have placed those on the E drive with the fan art installer. The games play I just don't have the fan art or cover art for the emulator like I do for the xbox games if I enable fan art. When I disable the fan art it just gives me the generic icons.

Hi to all! I'm very please to announce that I'm working hard on porting as many as I can stuffs from Kodi's GUILIB to make XBMC4Xbox more up to date with Kodi. All of this started as desire to port Estuary skin and current GUILIB that XBMC4Xbox had is very outdated and porting wasn't possible. So I started to look through Kodi's soruce code from around 2011 and slowly I was starting on implementing functionalities. Threads on Kodi forum helped me a lot because every major release of Kodi had a quick brief of all changes that were done to GUILIB. Ofcourse there aren't all changes but most crucial and important are. Here is a video that showcase what I have currently: Don't worry about all missing things. That has nothing to do with XBMC4Xbox GUILIB. Reason for all this "error & missing things" is because of XBMC4Xbox doesn't have same Window IDs and InfoLabels like Kodi. But that's not a hard to fix, the most important thing is that XBMC4Xbox GUILIB is up to date with Kodi's (v15). P.S. It would be really nice if admins could create separate subforum for XBMC, just like there are for Rocky5's projects and N64Freaks products. I would like to have XBMC4Xbox forum with subforums: General, Development, Skins, Plugins & Scripts.

Hello everyone and thanks in advance for your help. As you can see from the pic here: https://imgur.com/a/Vvnf6uX I removed today the clock cap and I found some corrosion. I cleaned very carefully (probably more clean will need) with a soft brush and isopropil alcool. I have noticed that corrosion affect some SMD component that now are gone, so I navigate the web looking for pictures to find the missing component so I can but and resolder them. Please help me with the values of the following components from bottom to top: R7G2 = 3K ohm R7G1 = 1.1 K ohm Q7G2= 1AM R7G3 = 285 Ohm CR7G1= A11 R7F9 = 2K ohm R7F8 = 256 Ohm R6F7 = can't find any value on the net Can you help me with those values? Also, any tip to double check? thanks

When downloading any packages to your computer there is still a default .xbe in them. and all Xbox apps/games have a default.xbe they have to or you cannot ever launch anything Instead of a .exe which the computer reads for launching programs and apps, the xbox has a .XBE XBOX Executable. The XB stands for XBOX and the E stands for executable. Anyway I downloaded the Gamers - Emustation Artwork Stuff from the following link: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1a3ZaFTuuu5L7lDbnOjmA5tlHhrwpWFKC?usp=sharing Which is the link found in this topic: I am now going to copy and paste an exact quote from the Topic Creator: Yet there isn't a single default.xbe anywhere in that package which means there is no possible way to run the installer at all. Furthermore the xbox reads the following extensions for images png - jpg - tbn - bmp (The proper dashboard still has to be used as some dashboards cannot read certain image files.) Anyway after looking through the package, there isn't any proper file extensions for the xbox to read either. Someone needs to create the proper picture formats so the dashboards can read it and say what dashboard those pictures go with, place those pics in the properly named folder, .rar that folder, and uploaded it. All someone needs to do then is download it, unpack the .rar file, and copy the folder that has all the pictures in it, onto the proper section of the xbox. Right now there isn't even a way to run any of this off a disk or the HDD. it's a complete shit show with no clear simple easy instructions. I shouldn't have to still connect the xbox to the net to download what I already have just to get it to run. This whole thing is a major and complex mess.

Once installed to be able to boot cerbios and retail bios on a 1.6 Do I solder d0 on this lpc rebuild to ground and then the 1.6 point on the OpenXenium chip.

I installed the Origins based image and upgraded to 128MB of RAM. Also added an SPDIF port for digital audio. If you would like it, please make an offer. Thanks guys

Hi all, I've recently bought this adapter , I connected it to the power and the data cables (Seagate SATA 250gb drive 3.5"), inserted Slayer Evox 2.7 DVD, but it stucks a bit into the Xbox splash screen (while showing the pink icon on the top-left, no "Slayer Evox 2.7" appears below the Xbox logo) before giving me Error 16. So I switched back to the old PATA drive, Evox launched correctly, switched the drives (while Evox still running) but : - when I format, it takes ages and returns '0' on each partition - when I try to lock/unlock it freezes (blank text on blue container) - when I try install as new large hdd it takes to formatting - when I try to install just Evox on C it takes weirdly no time (after formatting all partitions took ages as usual). Edit: I just tried, left the console for a while, then returned and as before all partitions shown '0' and when I reboot (thinking the install process was complete) same Error 16 as before, sometimes error 7 So what I'm supposed to do? FYI: the adapter has no "slave/master" thing on it, just the 40 pins and the power ones (but it seems making the hard drive working/sounding).

Good night, I need help about the original Xbox Cromwell, my card is 1.6 and every time I start the Xromwell the screen is full of lines and the control stops working, I've tried changing the resolution to 480i and it still crashes I still don't know what it is. Could this be a BIOS issue?

As mentioned in the title. The xbox restarts 3 times and flashes green and red alternately the third time. The so-called ask. Which can mean anything. The console came from something like eBay and the seller wanted to throw it in the trash because he couldn't fix it. I bought it anyway because it's a crystal. I've been looking for a long time. No capacitors were broken and all voltages were correct. Then I noticed that the lpc was being fried quite badly. After removing the solder from the LPC, I measured it again and there was about 1.5 volts missing at pin 1...or it switched off again very quickly. The same thing happened before the mcpx on the 3.3 volt pad. Well, long story short. I remembered a post by kaos engeneer. On the LPC (pin4) where the 2 vias are, a reset signal is passed along. And it was precisely this track that was torn down by the previous owner. That's why the console couldn't start and switched off the above-mentioned voltages. I repaired this track and everything is back to normal. Maybe it will help someone. Attached is another picture

I'm messing around with my own Xbox OG and have a modchip with Cerbios in it. I also changed the default hard drive with a SATA 160GB version and an IDE2SATA adapter with 80 wires 40 pins IDE cable. The boot is slow and yes I know the cheap IDE2SATA adapters can be annoying. But I used the exact same adapter in other Xboxes and they work fine. So, I did some testing. With the DVD drive attached (in the cerbios.ini it is defined as DriveSetup = 1 (which is HDD & No DVD (Legacy Mode)) the boot time is 42 seconds. When I detach the DVD drive, the boot time is aprox 20 to 21 seconds before the full EvolutionX dash is loaded. I tried several DVD drives (the one original in this Xbox is a Thompson, but I also tried Philips, Samsung) and the load time is with the DVD drive attached always 42 seconds and without at max 21 seconds. I also tried another 80 wires 40 pins IDE cable a had laying around, but same issue. Because I sometimes use the DVD drive I can`t eliminate it, so I'm out of ideas. If the adapter was also slow without the DVD, I would suspect that to be the problem, but in this case the performance without the DVD is fine (I also tested the adapter in a PC and it has good throughput). So if anyone has an idea to check and improve the time with the DVD attached it would be nice.

i opened up my xbox and noticed this modchip and was wondering if it would be causing my issue. it will attempt to power on 3 times and on that third time it will start flashing orange and red.

Hello, I've been lurking around here for a couple days, but haven't found anyone with the same issue so I thought I'd ask. I have a v1.0, never modded, xbox (original and only owner). Last time I used it (about a year ago), it was working great, but when I turned it on the other day, it attempted to boot three times, then started flashing red and orange. I was able to get it to boot after restarting it a few times, and I played through a game for about 5 min (then game froze due to a scratch, I'm pretty sure), but I have not been able to get it to start up again since (just 3 reboots and FOAR). If I hit the disc eject button once it's FOAR, the TV will show the green blob come on screen (it freezes after less than a second), but I'll continue to hear the music that goes with it (haven't left it on long enough to see if it goes to main menu and i can hear the sound of changing menu selection). I've seen a few '3 reboots and FRAG' articles, so I'm curious if this is the same situation, but maybe error colors are different for the earlier xboxes? Based on what I've read so far, I've checked the following: Cleaned the innards of most of the dust (had never opened it up in my 18+ years of ownership) LPC traces are undamaged (even did continuity check for sanity sake) Reseated all connectors Checked PSU voltages -- this was an interesting one, all voltages were correct, except for the power on signal (pin 11/teal wire), which i measured to be be 2.6V, not 3.3V Clock cap wasn't bulging, but it does look like it leaked a little, so i removed that, cleaned the area, but I don't see any damaged traces I'm planning on replacing all the caps on the board as a next step, but I'm wondering if anyone has an idea for something else worth testing to figure out what might be causing the error state. I'm so curious if the 2.6V power on signal is an indicator of anything. Does that get set by the CPU or the PSU? Thanks in advance for any ideas or suggestions!

FYI: https://x.com/modzvilleusa/status/1712345234364080547?s=46&t=9Ks-lWRGXCwsmOy16I0-HQ please do not make this a slander/argument/etc post. This is just news that will make a few of you happy @Bowlsnapper

Nothing special. Just a fun way to spend an hour.

Is this even something you can do? Or would I waste my time trying? I have two xboxes waiting to softmod>tsop, the disc drives in both are fugged so I can't use my mechassault disc. I'm wondering if the softmod can be performed from a digital copy of the game on the hard drive + hard drive copy of the exploit game save, all while running on a modchip.

Limited Edition Japanese “Skeleton” Xbox for sale! This is my whole collection I’ve been working on for 5 years. I have lost interest in it and it just sits around unused. I’d like it to go to someone who would actually enjoy it! Everything is tested and working except for the wireless controllers. I recently picked those up and have not tested them. It’s possible they work just fine. Minor cosmetic scuffs on everything but does not effect functionality. A cracks on the Xbox itself, mostly around where the case screws go. One of the corners does have damage. See pics. Asking for $650 or best offer shipped in the US. PayPal only. Let me know if you have any questions! What’s included: - Limited Edition Japanese “Skeleton” Xbox - 4 special edition controllers - 3 wireless controllers (untested) - Pound HDMI adapter - Madcatz HD component/composite cable - 3 controller extension cables - 1 controller port to usb female adapter - power cable Mods: - TSOP flashed 1.4v motherboard w/ EvoX bios - 128mb ram upgrade - Startech IDE to Sata adapter - 80 wire IDE cable - 1TB SSD drive - Insignia Live setup (account/gamertag will be included) - DVD drive delete - XBMC-Emustation Dashboard - RGB lights

Is there another place I can find ports of games to put on my xbox? I've gone through here: http://www.emuxtras.net/dlsystem/ Just looking for another great site that may have some other stuff to find. Thanks!

I haven't used my og Xbox for a while I decided I wanted it set up and to play it again did all of that and it goes to boot up gives me a display but shows the contact service center with error code 12. I looked up the code and it points to the dvd drive. I've opened it cleaned it and still no luck. What are my options would a hard mod and no dvd bios be a better fix than replacing the drive? Or would buying a parts machine be better. Thanks Kyran.

Hey I'm was trying to setup Insignia and was getting some network issues and thought it may be the bios or settings in the X3 config live so I took a look at the time and date settings and the year was 2004, so i set the current date and time, rebooted the Xbox and loaded back into config live and it displayed a message "Fixed Datesettings", I then went back to the time and date settings and sure enough it switched back to 2004. Can anyone tell me why this is happening? My Xbox is a v1.0, X3CE modchip running x3 bios version 3294 force progressive scan on banks 1-4 and then banks 5-8 have the standard x3 3294 bios. I have removed the clock cap. Any help would be appreciated.

Hello, I have one or two questions regarding the D0 point. With an xbox with version 1.6 the whole thing is called lframe (what does this abbreviation mean?) and it has been confirmed by various people that there are several mAh tiles and if you simply short-circuit this line with ground "could" damage the mcpx chip. Therefore the lframe cut is recommended. So far everything is known and at least for 1.6 I do it that way. Now to my question. What about D0 ... what does D0 even mean and where does it come from, also from mcpx? Tiles there also several mAh? I don't know about you, but I always have a bit of a stomach ache when a conductor track is to be short-circuited for which it was not actually intended. Hope you understand my english. Greetings

I wanted more of a subtle lighting mod for this halo console. I used the extra fan header to power 3 LEDs. Left side was easy to see. I also placed one in the middle to have a subtle glow from the front. The right side was tricky, because of the downward facing CPU air baffle on the underside of the HDD tray. So I put the LED on the very edge of the motherboard and pointed diagonally up and at the underside of the newly chromed HDD tray. Had to point it at an angle under that smaller opening in the bottom of the vane. That gave me the light output I wanted out the vent and the front bottom of the case is now (more) symmetrically lit. I am hesitant to show the wiring because I'm not too proud of it. As long as the light I want is there, who cares? And yes, I know there's overspray. Good thing nobody will ever see it. Lol. My controller port LED mods are getting much better and neater.

Hello! I've found a lot of good info and clever people on this board, so I'm hoping someone can help me out. It started with my old v1.1 Xbox and I screwed up the flash on the Xecuter 2.3b Lite and had no way to recover, so I bought an OpenXenium. I installed the pin header and mod chip and it worked great, for about a minute or two. Then the Xbox crashed. When I powered it back on, it FRAG'd. Disconnecting the mod chip didn't boot back into the stock BIOS either. I found a guy selling a mint v1.1 Xbox nearby for cheap so I bought it. I yanked the clock cap, installed the mod chip, and it booted up and worked great...for about a minute. It crashed and FRAG'd on reboot. Disconnecting D0 and removing the chip wouldn't boot the stock BIOS. Sounds familiar... After leaving the Xbox to sit for a few days while I ordered a magnifying lamp and some nicer wire, I soldered on a new D0 connection and just put the chip in with nothing else (no video even) and switched it on. Green light! Great! Installed the DVD drive and SSD and then...FRAG. I'm pretty confused now. I followed this guide to check the contact points on the board and I traced their resistance, all are less than 0.1 ohms (except the grounding pins...I don't know why those are mapped to vias?). https://www.ogxbox.com/forums/uploads/monthly_2021_01/68206083_xboxLPC.thumb.png.331244095aee4bc57088b5b4ce2ec6c7.png With the system powered on, I checked the voltage and all looks good except the Pin 5 RST voltage is sometimes really low. That seems significant. I have another Xbox on the way but at this point I'm starting to think the mod chip is broken and murdering Xboxes. Since they won't boot even with the chip disconnected, that makes me think the chips borked the EEPROM or caused some electrical damage. I also find it weird that after letting the Xbox sit for a couple days and really not doing much, it worked once and then not again. I'm wondering if there's some kind of breaker being tripped and that resets? I know the Nintendo 64 has something like that if you had inserted the memory expansion pack backwards, you'd have to wait an hour or something. I've visually scanned the motherboard looking for bad traces, solder splash, anything looking out of the ordinary and it all looks fine. I'm at a loss at this point. What else can I check? What am I missing? Big thanks for any help anyone can provide

I bought a modded xbox a few years ago and I really enjoyed it. I got it out to test recently and it stopped working. Got a flashing red light on the power button and got this error message with a white number in the corner. Most of the time I tried it was a 12 but I got 7 a few times. Is there any way to fix this?