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Hello, So i have this issue with my OG Xbox 1.6: after installing Cerbios v2.4.2 (i tried different revisions and it's the same - but it doesn't do that with EvoX 8+, so it's not an hardware issue) some games have a noticeable warping in the upper part of the screen, and in others, like Conker Live&Reloaded, the screen remains black after the first loading screen. I'm using UnleashX dash with composite scart on a CRT and these games are set to PAL (60) or NTSC-J, for example Unreal Championship or Metal Wolf Chaos. Only if i set them to NTSC they don't have the warping issue, but i don't like the NTSC colors. Games like Halo 2, Morrowind, Doom 3 and Arx Fatalis works flawlessly if set on PAL. Are there any solutions to this issue?
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PCB files and BIOS patcher can be found on github: https://github.com/Prehistoricman/Xbox256MB/tree/master Upgraded Xblast OS can be found on bitbucket: README and Downloads The new Xblast OS comes with a RAMTESTER variant that lets you test the stock set of 4 chips. This can be useful even for a typical 128MB mod when things go wrong and the Xbox won't boot normal Xblast. MachoNacho already did a tutorial on installing this upgrade: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R2hvSL30Rlg So here's a brief tutorial for installation. Tutorial Be aware this is an advanced mod and while it does grant quadruple the memory, there is a performance disadvantage. The memory clock speed must be reduced to make this memory stable (this is handled in my BIOS patcher). Tools required: Hot air station (recommended for removing stock chips) Precision soldering station Microscope suitable for soldering Flux Solder Solder wick IPA Multimeter Hardmodded Xbox Spare Xbox to be able to reflash your modchip if necessary Steps: Flash the Xblast OS 0.63 RAMTESTER 256Mbit BIOS to your modchip If your modchip has only one bank, you can still access the normal Xblast menus by pressing eject to power on the Xbox. If your modchip runs an OS BIOS (like PrometheOS, Xenium or Xblast), patch it and flash it first Remove the stock memory chips. Use hot air to desolder it - I like to place tinfoil on the board to protect the other components and plastic from the heat. Or just cut the pins if you don't care about the stock memory chips. Solder in the new memory modules Start with bank 1 in the stock memory layout. See this diagram Precisely align the module on the motherboard Solder 1 pin in a corner to anchor the module Make sure you get the orientation right. There is an arrow in the corner of the module that should align with a dot on the motherboard. That's pin 1. Solder the opposite pin Check the orientation again! I got this wrong twice :((( Solder the rest of the pins on the module Power on the Xbox to test it with the BIOS If you got it right, the LED code will indicate that bank 2 has failed. See README for LED codes. If the LED code shows bank 1 failed, there may be a short circuit or open circuit. Check your soldering. If the Xbox powers off very quickly and doesn't reboot, you have a short circuit. Check your soldering. If the Xbox reboots 3x and FRAGs, there may be a short circuit or open circuit. Check your soldering. Repeat for banks 2, 3, 4 in order. Try booting Xblast using the eject button, or any other 256MB compatible BIOS. Install the rest of the banks, using the memory test in Xblast OS's Tools menu to check if they are working. Flash a 256MB compatible BIOS X2 and X3 BIOSes are known to work and have the full 256MB usable Cerbios support is not good yet, but they are working on it. EvoX will boot, but needs additional patches to be able to use the extra memory. Do nothing with the additional memory Interposer assembly One way to do this upgrade is to buy the loose memory chips and interposer PCBs and assemble them. You need to be confident with BGA soldering. The memory chip is HY5DU573222F-28 which you can find on Alibaba and maybe other places too. The -28 is the speed bin and I don't recommend going any slower such as -33. The interposer PCB designs are on Github and I've included gerbers in the release suitable for ordering from PCBWay.
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I've got a Series X that has network issues. WiFi doesn't see any available networks, and LAN reports its connected even though cable is disconnected. I've tried factory reset, to keep it without power for some time, but I had no luck. I saw someone pointing that ethernet controller (RTL8111HM) could be the issue. Would replacing RTL8111HM help, does it affect both LAN and WiFi? Console is also stuck at 640x480, could it be that the same chip is the issue?
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I was attempting to upgrade my friends 1.0 xbox to 128mb, after successfully installing the 2 ram chips on the top of the xbox and testing them one at a time with xblast, I moved onto the bottom. I installed the 3rd ram chip and tested it with xblast and it was flashing red and orange, so after going over all the ram chips with my soldering iron this problem persisted. So I took the xbox home with me and removed the 3rd ram chip with hot air, and I noticed that a capacitor was missing, specifically C5T7 on the 3rd ram slot. So after finding the schematic for the ram and finding a replacement for the capacitor I was hoping that would be the end of my problems but the red and orange still persisted. So now I've gone over all the ram chips with my soldering iron to make sure there's no bridging or anything else but im stumped. Whenever I try and use the Aladdin modchip with xblast it FRAG's and whenever I use my openxenium with promethos is flashes red and orange. I have a voltmeter, I have tried a different PSU, the video cables are connected, I have no idea what else to try. Any help would be amazing! Pictures: https://imgur.com/a/YFjPUnd
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Hi everyone. I'm posting now hoping to get some help with my Xbox. I haven't used it for 5 years and I took it out again 3 days ago and now it started doing what's in the video (link at the bottom): the image glitches and goes black. When this happens, the power and eject buttons do not work at all and the only way to turn it off is to unplug it from the socket. By the way, it's a v1.1 XBox. If anyone has any idea what could be the problem, I'd appreciate the help. Here's a link to a video showing the issue: https://streamable.com/rsie40
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No bugs in here, just questions.
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Hello, I have a xbox 1.4 motherboard. Clock cap of course had leaked however console worked fine. I disassembled the xbox to remove the cap and clean the area. I noted before i started that the diodes and resistors just north of the cap had taken the brunt of the leak. with the transistor in the Q7f4 position having its top leg detached from board. and as I said xbox still worked fine. well while cleaning the cap off that transistor fell off. I don't think I have much hope of re soldering it back at my skill level. So to my question, seeing how the xbox still worked with that transistor seemingly detached ( maybe it was still in contact and I couldn't tell?) I was curious is it part of the clock circuit? does it even need to be there if im not replacing the cap? IM trying to find anyone who knows definitely if it needs to be there or not for normal operation minus the clock. trying to find out before I attempt to power the board back up and harm it further. Thank you for your time. picture is not my board but one of the same 1.4 with the resistor im speaking of highlighted so anyone knows what one im talking about. -
I'm simply curious. As I read and understand it the BIOS and kernel (in an unmodded vanilla MS Xbox) are both stored on the flash chip. To flash it with a custom bios I have to make it writable... How did MS update the kernel then back in the day? The dash I can understand since it's just a file on the harddrive.
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Hi everyone, I have a 1.4 board that I bought loose. I bought a lot with several xboxes and they all have FRAG. Now I just want to try to fix this 1.4 so I bought a power supply that I received yesterday, the console turns on but has FRAG. I have a reader and a hard drive from another xbox that I can use to test. I have 2 aladdin chips but I don't know if they work. The power supply is tested and works. I have many rp2040 and I tried to program one but it doesn't work or I don't know how to make it work. The 1.4 board doesn't have bad tracks or swollen capacitors. I'm quite lost, I've never had an xbox with FRAG (50% green 50% red) without video and I don't know where to start. In the same lot there was a 1.1 xbox with the same symptoms, but in the end I sold it very cheap.
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new to ogxbox and thanks to everyone for a great and helpful forum.
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I bought a modded xbox a few years ago and I really enjoyed it. I got it out to test recently and it stopped working. Got a flashing red light on the power button and got this error message with a white number in the corner. Most of the time I tried it was a 12 but I got 7 a few times. Is there any way to fix this?
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Hi all, I’m new to the Xbox scene and Xbox modding, (I’m older) and was around before anyone had a mobile /smart phone or tv. I chipped ps1’s and ps2’s when they were originally released for my kids. I require clarification on the following Xbox identification and mod chip advice. one of my sons has given me an old unused Xbox one, (with external power supply) to clarify is this classed as an og Xbox? And secondly I would like to upgrade the hdd in the Xbox and hard wire a mod chip that self boots when the Xbox is switched on. can anyone help me with chip recommendations or advise how I can contact a uk seller? also if I go online with a chipped console will Microsoft ban my account ? im asking in a round about way can all chips be spotted by Microsoft? thanks in advance cozzie
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There's a few games not working on faster cpu. Does anyone know how to get Return to Castle Wolfenstein (NTSC) to run with a faster cpu ? (1 ghz, 1.4 ghz) ? On startup it dIsplays the first copyright screen and then it freezes just before loading the ESRB notice. HDD spins down to low activity. Same result happens if I use xbepatcher on the default.xbe. On my stock xbox this game runs just fine.
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I'd like to replace the logo that appears between the Xbox flubber animation upon startup and the loaded dashboard on a soft modded xbox using UnleashX. Right now its an X inside a cube with some matrix test in the background. Is that possible and how would I go about doing it? I am using the default skin and I don't see anything in the E:\UDATA\9e115330\0064122817A8\ directory labeled Skin. I do see a UX Splash but I changed that to no avail Ive tried googling around but I think im missing the right keywords so I wanted to create a thread if anyone knew how. -
I recently dug up my old OG Xbox (V1.0) from my parents' basement. It's been sitting for a while, and when I got to it, it was pretty rusted. Right now, it frags most of the time, cycling twice before flashing red and green, but occasionally it boots to an error screen. I'm testing without the disc drive or hard drive connected, so I think the error might be related to that. I haven't managed to get it to boot with the disc drive/HD connected but I'm not sure if that's relevant or just coincidence. It's stock, it hasn't been soft/hard modded and I'm the first person to open it. I’ve done a few console mods and handheld builds before, but this is my first time working on an Xbox. Any help would be really appreciated! Here’s what I’ve tried so far: Cleaned off as much rust as possible and repainted the metal case. I made sure to file off the paint on the contact points and confirmed continuity from the motherboard and PSU to the case. Removed the clock capacitor. There was a lot of gunk around it, but I didn’t spot any bulging or visible damage on the other caps. I reflowed a few of the components nearby that didn't look nice. I cleaned the area with vinegar and IPA. I also ordered a Console5 cap kit, which should arrive in a few days. Found a broken trace on the bottom of the board using this guide (though it's for a 1.1): Trace Corrosion Fix. Couldn't see the break, but my multimeter showed no contact between the points, so I ran a jumper wire. No power button issues so far, so not sure if it’s related to the fragging. Reflowed the solder points on the PSU connector for the power cord. Removed the CPU and GPU heatsinks, cleaned them, and applied new thermal compound. Checked the LPC voltages, and they seem normal according to this LPC Voltage Guide. I’m getting 5.1V and 3.3V. Tried the "3 pin hack" as a long shot in case it was a bad BIOS, but it didn’t seem to help. As recommended in this thread Once the cap kit arrives, I plan to swap out the capacitors, but I’m not sure what else to try after that. I haven’t spotted anything else visually wrong but I'm hoping someone more experienced will see something I can't. Thanks again. Google Photo Album with more pictures
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Wanting to avoid paying single piece prices so I'm looking for a good vendor that offers quantity discounts on quality IDE cables and the replacement, full-length controller replacement cables. Any recommendations or success stories? Thanks. -
Just that... Looking to replace GPU fan and heatsink on a v1.0 Cheers!
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On the XBox, some commercial games could run third party fan-made mods (provided the XBox was modded), which was amazing. I remember games such as Morrowind, the Grand Theft Auto games, Star Was Battlefront 2, etc, supporting this. The big limitation was memory, of course, as the XBox only had 64 MB of RAM (which was also used for video RAM), but I have had my XBox upgraded to 128 MB, so I was wondering in anyone had released a patch for any of these games to allow the game to access more than 64 MB of RAM, and so allow more mods to be used with applicable games. Also, or course, fan-ported games such as Duke Nukem 3D (using 'XDuke'), Shadow Warrior (using 'ShadowX), Doom 1 and 2 (using 'Doom-X'), and I think ports of Quake 1 and 2, etc (I don't like the Quake games, so I can't speak from experience), can use third party mods, and with these ports being written specifically for the XBox, then they would see more likely to maybe receive 128 MB support upgrades. Have any of these ports been upgraded, to allow for the support of more demanding mods. -
I recently got into 3D printing, and went down the rabbit hole of designing my own stuff, which has been a massive learning curve. So, a bit of back story... I recently came across four OG boxes in a cupboard. Two had been chipped with the X3, one is softmodded and one has never been opened. They hadn't seen the light of day for the guts of 15 years, so I dusted them off and powered up the two chipped boxes, and they're both working fine. I'd fitted 200GB drives into them (biggest drives available at the time) and used one of them for a couple of years before a house move dictated its retirement. The second chipped box was never used. I bought it for my nephew and niece to play on when they visited but they were more interested in fishing and playing with the dog. Anyway, I digress... Fast forward to a few weeks ago, and I decided to have a mess with the chipped boxes. I've fitted 2TB drives, and I went looking for an X3CP faceplate, as these were a 'must have' thing, back in the day, but it seems they are no longer available, and if you can find one, they cost silly money. I also went looking for an LCD to complement the X3 chip, but I hit the same wall, although I did have a couple of HUGE 20x4 LCDs lying around, which were far too big to fit into the front panel of the xbox, but I wired them up with connectors to fit the X3, and they're working just fine, so I decided to have a go at designing a front panel to fit them into the Xbox. These are the LCD displays. I'm also adding a smaller LCD for an Arduino, which will monitor temperatures and control some LEDs I'm planning on fitting. This is where I'm at with the front panel. It's still a work in progress, as I'm planning to add switches to replace the bank dip switches for the X3, but I'm still searching for something suitable. The power and (ex) eject buttons are being replaced with RGB ring buttons, which will be controlled by the Arduino. Good lord... I'm 52 years old. You'd think I'd have grown out of this by now! Edit: I've no idea what happened with that link in the post. It wasn't supposed to be there and I have no idea how to remove it.
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Hi everyone, I'm a long time Xbox user, and have enjoyed modding consoles since the early 2000's. I got started with an xecuter 2 chip, and things just snowballed from there. I've always been interested in running code on unintended hardware, and seeing what shenanigans i can get into in general. Currently my biggest project is resurrecting the aforementioned xecuter 2 box, as its whopping 75k hrs of run time has taken a toll (almost 9 years of runtime!!) I'm beginning my own journey of creating hardware mods for the xbox platform, primarily focused on enhancing cooling capabilities, and allowing my console to stream games from my home server rather than filling its own dedicated hdd again. Im also interested in making custom xbox motherboard pcb's, capable of running the xbox's os on new, and more powerful hardware. I'm exited to make new friends who share these interest, and like stated in the title, my username is usually SkippinMudkipz... But i guess midkipz is fine too lmfao -
Hey guys!!! I'm bringing here 2 720p Patches that I edited it myself, One for Ninja Gaiden Black and the other for Half-Life 2. The 2 are working perfectly on a 64mb Xbox but I can't fix the 4 screens bug if someone can fix it for me thank you https://www.mediafire.com/folder/ryzo7d7b1up9o/Patches+720p+OGXBox+(NGB+and+HL2)+-+Felipe+Lima -
Hi, Does somebody have advise on the best and cheapest way to restore these controllers ? If joysticks needs replacement, which joysticks is the best ? ( also knobs ) Also L/R trigger potentiometers. can those be cleaned or do you need to replace them ? thanks a ton !
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I recently was given a link to what could be a useful resource for anyone looking to patch an XBE for widescreen etc. This has been put together by @Jay Yardley (He doesn't post here much anymore but is active on discord). Thanks Jay His repo contains a nice spreadsheet of find and replace values for XBE patching, along with pretty much every existing XBE patch out there. Also has some pages with a few useful tools etc. The more links we have to these things the better imo as it stops them being lost to history Anyway, here's the link. https://www.jayxbox.com/home Hopefully some of you will find it useful. (I couldn't find it linked anywhere here already but that may be the case and its buried among the old posts )
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Hello I recently got an OG Xbox kind of cheap together with some demos and 2 controllers. I tested it and it worked all good for the demos at least, when I put games in it didnt recognize them at all because they were copies something that I didnt really check when I did buy them because they were in DVD boxes with printed labels and all that. After some searching I found that the console was modded because it was showing Xecuter 2 on startup, I didnt know about that because never had an Xbox before so I thought that was normal startup screen lol. So after playing a bit with the settings I gone to flash bios which made sense for me after flashing the first option which I dont remember the name now It started playing one of the copy games but it was stuttering a lot after a while. After another restart I gone to flash the second option and then it stuck without flashing or doing anything for like 20 minutes after which I turned the console off. Now after I turn it on it makes 2-3 attempts to turn on and then starts flashing red-green light constantly, the DVD drives responds and opens up when I push the button for the tray but other from that I have nothing on screen and it doesnt boot up into any menu from what I understand. What are my options from there ? Can I somehow make a new install of the firmware or flash some new bios to it or maybe is the mod messing up ? Any help will be much appreciated as this is my first Xbox console and my knowledge of it is extremely lacking.
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I was FTP'ing stuff to my 1.6, it was going for about 14 hours OK then it locked up, I turned it off and on and it tried to kick in twice by starting to go green then restarting before anything comes on the screen then the third time it started the light flashing from green to red I thought maybe my mod chip was playing up so I desoldered it and tried the Xbox, exact same behaviour, no signal to screen and flashing red and green.. The boards had all new caps only a few months ago. What could it possibly be? I looked at the board under zoom on my phone and can't see any obvious signs or problems anywhere.
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Board Life Status
Board startup date: April 23, 2017 12:45:48