GoTeamScotch

Good move on buying a new laser. That will likely fix the problem. I personally haven't played an Xbox game from a disc in years. Rip the game once and put the disc on a shelf. To each his own though.

Figured it out. I thought JP1 meant that pin #1 starts there. Pin #1 actually starts on the opposite end. So, my wiring was backwards. Now I feel dumb. Hopefully someone else googling this problem in the future might stumble across my post and learn from my mistake.

I got a SPI2PAR2019 kit and an HD44780 compliant screen and tried to wire it up last night but ran into some problems. The LCD just shows zeroes on the screen. When it first powers up, I see 2 of the 4 lines filled with solid-square characters (two full rows of solid boxes, rows 2 and 4). Then after the Xbox boots up further, the screen goes blank, then shows zeroes (see photo). I'm also seeing some flickering on the screen showing the zeroes. I checked the wiring diagram of the LCD I'm using and verified that points #1-16 correlate to points #1-16 on my LCD, so I don't think it's that. I also tried powering the arduino with a USB battery bank and that didn't make any difference. I have a 2nd LCD that showed the same issue. I have a 2nd spi2par but haven't wired that in yet. I've enabled LCD options in XBMC to no avail. SPI2PAR2019 from ChimericSystems.com White on Blue 20x4 LCD Character Display from CrystalFontz.com Wired through an OpenXenium modchip. Thoughts: Shorten wire going from spi2par to LCD. Try getting rid of the wire entirely and just soldering the spi2par straight onto the back of the LCD. Perhaps the spi2par doesn't come pre-programmed? Not sure how to tell if it is or not. (I asked the seller for details)

Very nice! A much cleaner solution than the other method. Definitely interested in getting this once it's ready. My feedback- I'd get a 4-port version if it was available. Xerc support is interesting too.

I got my ogx360 in the mail today from @TEK Nemesis and I'm just so impressed by this whole project. This is probably my favorite project to hit the scene in years. It's so nice to be able to use a X1 wireless controllers on an original Xbox... and with virtually no lag! It makes me want to play through a bunch of old games again because of how pleasant the controls are now. No offense to the good old duke. Huge thanks to @Ryzee119 for this project. Outstanding work! TEK Nemesis' build quality is top notch. The cords are well made. The 3D printed case is stylish and fits well. He has a bunch of case options too, so I chose one that matches my Japanese/skeleton Xbox. Next step: internal installation. One downside I'm running into is that I've had some trouble using multiple 8bitdo adapters at once. TEK Nemesis suggested re-flashing the 8bitdo's firmware, which I'll try. I bought 2 with the expectation of buying 2 more later, plus I also bought a USB hub. Too bad there isn't support for the Xbox One usb wireless receiver like there is for the 360 receiver. I understand the X1 receiver uses proprietary firmware, but it seems the reverse engineering part of that has already been done (?) for Linux through Xow by author medusalix. It would of course take effort to translate it to the ATmega (avr) instruction set (idk how much is handled by the compiler). Currently, to add support for 4 wireless X1 controllers is ~$100 (not including cost of ogx360 itself) for 4 8bitdo adapters and a USB hub. And even after all that, the adapters may still be a bit finicky. I'd gladly put that money into a bounty pool instead. Perhaps others would as well. Be mindful of your timing when you go to flash the arduino. The first time I flashed one, I was pulling my hair out trying to figure it out. Turns out you have to connect to it within a few seconds after it boots up. Too late and your flashing program can't talk to it. Ryzee points this out in his instructions.

Probably, but you should use something that's more modern instead. The old Xbox wifi adapter doesn't support modern wifi encryption standards.

Just wanted to chime in and say I've been loving FATxplorer. It's incredibly convenient to be able to build hard drives right from Windows using USB3 / SATA speeds. I built a 2TB drive in about 6 hours using this method, where normal FTP would take me about 2 days usually. I like it so much I bought a license key. The developer is also very responsive to users. One potential downside is that you have to find a reliable way to copy tons of files. Dragging and dropping in windows is fine for a couple GBs, but >1TB of stuff gets tricky, especially if there's an error for whatever reason. There's plenty of folder-sync apps for Windows (Microsoft's SyncToy is decent), but what I ended up doing is hooking up my USB HDD full of games to my router, which runs an FTP site, and the Xbox drive is then connected to my PC via SATA. Then I use FileZilla to manage the whole copy process. I changed FileZilla's settings to transfer 2 files at a time to help with the huge amount of smaller files (copying more than 2 files at once seemed to hurt more than it helped). I was seeing average transfer speeds of ~80MB/s. Speeds were somewhat less than when both drives are natively hooked up to the PC, but in my case I also want to access all my Xbox files from my network. Copying apps/dashboards from my FTP site through XBMC is very convenient. Anyways, I can't say enough good things about FATXplorer. Great software. Can't wait to see what other goodies gets added to it after it's out of beta.

Yeah I tried hooking it up to a PC and it didn't work. No sound of the platters spinning up either. I tried swapping the logic board/PCB from another similar HDD, and that resulted in the drive clicking. Not sure if clicking is the result of using the wrong HDD PCB (different firmware maybe) or it just being a dead drive. I've installed Hack-devkit-GueuX-V2 to be able to run signed XBEs. Are there debug BIOSes with LBA48 support? Or am I stuck with a max 137GB HDD?

Thanks for the info. I used that tool to split the bios off into a 512kb version and flashed that to my Duo x2 lite chip. This didn't produce any different outcome. However, I was able to get the Xbox working. It turned out that I just needed to use a different DVD drive because the Thomson drive I was using couldn't read my burned recovery disc. I swapped it out for a Samsung drive and the recovery CD booted right up. I swapped in a different hard drive and ran the recovery application. It's now booting to the XDK dash as expected. It sucks that the stock hard drive turned out to be the problem. I wonder what was on the hard drive before it failed. Seems like the only way to find out would be to swap the platters into a donor drive... and I don't have a clean room.

Going by what they visually look like, yes. I don't see bulging or odd cues. I haven't checked them beyond that so far. I currently don't have any chips that can hold a 1MB BIOS, like the debug BIOS. Technically I have a Xenium Ice chip that has big enough BIOS banks, but it doesn't work with debug (MX2) boards.

Wish I would have known OpenXenium modchips don't work on MCPX X2 (devkit) motherboards before I ordered a couple. Lol I ran into a similar situation of needing to put a debug BIOS onto a modchip to fix a debug kit. Watching this thread.

I have a broken debug kit Xbox that I'm hoping to salvage and get working again and could use some pointers. It starts to boot up but hangs at the X screen during bootup (no Microsoft logo). There is some trace-rot and corrosion present on the board, and I'm hoping it's not bad enough to be causing these issues. The clock capacitor was leaking but it was very minor. High-res photos of the board: https://imgur.com/a/sESsyvi There's also a bodge-job done to the underside of the board, which I'm not sure what it does. The orange D0 wire was added by me. The thermal tape was there when I got it. The hard drive does not make any sound at all, so I hooked the HDD up to a PC and my PC couldn't read it (still no spin-up or reading sounds coming from the drive). I suspect that the drive may be broken. I swapped in a similar model HDD's logic board (first part of model was the same, last part was slightly different) and then the drive spun-up, but was clicking ('click of death' sound), but I'm not sure if this is from the drive being busted or from it being the wrong logic board. I burned 5849_Recovery to a disc, swapped in a different (unlocked) Xbox HDD and tried to boot from the disc and it hung at the same spot in the bootup process. I tried a different DVD drive too just in case. The fact that it's still misbehaving after taking out the supposedly-bad HDD makes me wonder if a BIOS flash went wrong. I have a copy of the debug BIOS, but no 1MB modchips on hand. I only have an Aladdin XT+2 and a DUO X2 Lite, neither of which can handle a 1MB BIOS. So I can get a better modchip and boot from that, but I'm not sure if that's even the problem. I've also tried swapping the power supply with the same one from a different Xbox to no avail. Any tips?

That cable has an optical audio cord that is intended to be plugged into an A/V receiver. If your TV happens to accept in incoming optical audio signal, then yes it would work on your TV. But most TVs will have an optical audio port for outputting audio out to an A/V receiver, not receiving one in. Digital optical audio is for carrying high quality surround-sound audio and TVs do not need a super high quality audio signal because they generally just have two "good enough" speakers built-in and that's all.

Yes. I did this 2 weeks ago. Works fine. Me soldering an S-controller cable to a duke. Just match the colors and don't cut the wires too short.

I agree, Hexen is overrated. I use it every now and then to flash bioses, but that's about it. It's somewhat messy with all the leftover "delete me" folders and junk.

Very cool! I'm tempted to order one but I've recently bought an OGx360 kit, a debug kit Xbox, and a few other random Xbox auctions so I'll probably wait. Replacing the ethernet port... it's cool that it's an option, but if you're that interested in keeping both video output options, perhaps you're better off using an HDMI splitter then converting it to component/composite. But hey, to each his own.

What a strange thread. prtscan, when you start a conversation that is in opposition to a widely agreed upon idea (i.e. the idea replacing thermal paste in Xboxes = good), it's a fantastic idea to explain your stance ahead of time before any sort of back-and-forth springs up. When you make a claim and wait for people to disagree with before explaining your position, it comes off looking like you're trolling or baiting people into disagreeing with you just for sake of arguing later. You very well may be right, but the way you're going about it is ass backwards. My stance- a tube of MX4 is cheap and replacing the 20 year old paste takes all of 15 mins. Acetone works great for eating through old thermal paste.

Anyone producing these yet? Where can I get a hold of one (or more)?

OSOYOO Pro Micro ATmega32U4 5V/16MHz Module Board with 2 Row pin Header for arduino Leonardo Replace ATmega328 Pro Mini Ripdajacker's requirements list "Arduino Pro Micro or equivalent (atmega32u4 based)" so I'm pretty sure this is a correct board to use. Where I'm getting hung up is the wiring of the two boards together. I can see that the Arduino is wired to the Pi's GPIO #9, #10, and #11 pins (MISO, MOSI, and SCLK), but I'm unsure about the brown wire going from the Arduino to the Pi. Ripdajacker's diagram https://github.com/ripdajacker/xpad-avr/blob/master/xpad-avr-wiring.pdf Arduino pinout: https://osoyoo.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/Capture_115.png Pi GPIO pinout: https://i.imgur.com/IINr0h3.png I'm pretty sure I can just match up the wiring diagram, but last I looked at it I couldn't match the pinouts and I didn't want to burn the board by trying and failing. Plus, I've been looking into the ogx360 more lately and it looks to be a lot more polished in general, which has me curious. And $67 isn't a bad price for getting a full working kit.

Just chiming back in here to say that I tried ripdajacker's method and holy crap. It turned out to be way more complicated than I thought. I've tinkered with Raspberry Pi's and such before, but I wasn't prepare for the learning curve of getting the arduino board flashed and working. I was going mad trying to follow guides and getting it flashed, then it turned out that I had to put it into a certain mode and flash the device within like 2 seconds before it went back to normal mode and I only found that out after like an hour of trying and failing. Anyways, Once I got through setting up the Pi and the arduino board, the wiring diagram didn't match up to the arduino I had (doesn't seem to have an "ss" pin?) so I pretty much giving up at this point. I'm sure someone who's super familiar with all this can figure it out, but I'm tapping out. Anyways, who's got a source for where I can buy an ogx360? Preferably in the US.

I'm wanting to use other controllers on my OG Xbox. Controllers such as Xbox 360 and ideally Xbox One controllers. Everyone seems to recommend ogx360, but that seems to require a custom PCB and I'm not sure where to buy it. Alternatively, there's ripdajacker's project, which seems to be less polished but it also appears to support more controllers and only requires a raspberry pi and an atmega32u4 board, which are off-the-shelf parts. What are the differences between these two projects? Which is best? Thanks