HDShadow

As said I've already done the BT to Pin 2. Whilst the soldering of that looks 'average' from the wire connection side of the chip looked at from the other side, which will actually be on top when the chip is fitted, it looks pretty good. So cutting that R1 trace and connecting R1 to ground will do the same thing as the 5v wired connection shown in the v1.6 YT video. Yes? The only other thing to do then is the wire from D0 pad on the chip to the appropriate point on the MB. Seems D0able. BTW how easy is it to get the LED off and replace it with for instance a blue one?

Not done a chip install before but decided to take the plunge and have just received an Aladdin XT PLUS2 including pin-header. Thing is I have two options: install on a v1.0 or a v1.6. I've started by bridging the BT to adjacent GND point so when fitted the chip will be always be on. A bit fiddly and I overcooked the solder on one end but it looks clean enough. The question is what to do now: there are plenty of guides for the the v1.6 but that involves rebuilding the LPC which with my soldering skills I'm not 100% confident about. There is also contradictory information about the pin-header set up too. Some guides remove just one pin others like this very clear YT guide recommends removing four pins. The v1.6 LPC hassle made me tend towards using the v1.0 instead but the guides I've found for that are limited and seem unclear in comparison. Nothing at all about using the pin header, if there are any differences, and the pins that need removing or even what needs to be connected to what. Available pictures are particular poor. It also appears that to use the pin header I'm going to have to remove the existing solder from the LPC holes too. Is the info in the v1.6 YT tutorial about using 5v from the right transistor leg to make the LED only switch on when the Xbox is powered up applicable to the v1.0? Advice/info please.

The Controller-S is dismantled with the main PCB out and the joysticks removed. The left joystick mechanism is on top of the PCB (obviously ) and I'm assuming is soldered in place underneath. Problem is, as said, the whole of the left trigger mounting frame prevents access to that. Unless it can be removed I can not see any way of getting at those solder points. There may be problems removing the right stick mechanism too but for the time being I'm just interested in how/whether it is is possible to dismantled that left trigger mount. That is, without damaging it or anything else in the process. The same method is likely applicable to the right trigger too. If I can get at the solder points I think it should be possible to desolder it with braid rather than use an electric solder sucker. Ones like that in the YT tutorial cost £25+ in the UK. There are cheaper alternatives but even those are approaching £20 with shipping. I can get a boxed new one or two used MS Controller-S for that sort of money but thanks for the suggestion. BTW:- One of the reasons I got onto this idea was because I was replacing the left joystick (pads barely worn) in the three Controller-S I'd retired but kept for backup. Two fitted with far less worn thumb pads I thought I try an idea I read about on another forum several years ago. That was to use PS/PSone/PS2/PS3 thumb sticks as replacements. I have plenty of those collected over 20 years from the many retired/broken examples I've kept for spares. It is about the one part of the Dualshock controllers that I never wore out. I couldn't quite believe it would work but even though you have to press the slightly too big 'head' fairly firmly to get it through the Controller-S case's thumb stick hole once done it mounts very firmly in place. Whilst the movement is marginally reduced by the larger diameter joystick column it still works very well. I finished a FPS I've been re-doing this week using it. Even though it takes a bit of time getting used to the feel of a convex thumb pad the firmness of the material and the slight extra height I'd say were actually beneficial.

I have a couple of Controller-S with the same issue on the left joystick. It simply won't recenter correctly in both cases. I've taken the controllers apart, cleaned out the mounting and even used some plastic friendly lubricant to try and get the stick to recenter consistently. There is clearly some wear and tear issue on one in particular as the mount for the joystick actually sticks when moved to the far left and won't spring back to the centre without manual help. So I thought why not use the right stick mount from the other controller to replace the left one. Here us the problem:- The left stick mounting is over the left trigger mechanism which prevents access to the solder points underneath. The trigger mounting looks as though it is held in place by two tabs but despite all efforts there is clearly something else holding too. But what and is it possible to remove it to get access without damaging anything? Will the replacement idea even work if there is a way of doing this?

I'm thinking there may have been a fundamental misunderstanding here from what was said in post #3. alexjames2320: have you watched Rocky5's YT Chimp 261812 tutorial? It just sounds as if you've connected up things incorrectly - I won't say what I think you might have done but that tutorial might help resolve this problem for you. The tutorial is slightly out of date as the latest version of Chimp 261812: v1.01 changes the recommended IDE cable swap point, from the DVD drive to the new HDD, to the Chimp Loader screen. Personally I still prefer to swap whilst on the main dash. If you have done that just press A when that Chimp Loader IDE swap prompt screen appears. Rocky5 doesn't actually show the cable swap technique so this alternative tutorial for Chimp 261812 v1.01 does, at least the technique required if not the actual hotswap from around 12'.00 onwards.

Try plugging the SCART RGB cable in a non-RGB SCART TV socket if available. I've had Chimp problems using specific Xbox versions with particular TVs when using a SCART RGB cable. If this happens I swap to an AV Composite cable with SCART adapter as was supplied with the Xbox originally in PAL regions. But swapping to a non-RGB SCART socket should have the same effect if one of those is not available. If you have any memory cards or USB devices it can affect Chimp. So disconnect them. If the Xbox is connected online - disconnect it too. Check the jumpers on the primary HDD are set to Master rather than cable select. In the past there were reports using cable select could cause problems. Can you boot Chimp 261812 normally ie. without swapping the IDE cable to the new HDD?

Sounds like it. Which is your main dash: UnleashX ot EvoX? You need advice from somebody who knows how the Xbox temperature readings are made because they should be showing something in all those dashes, certainly not just 0°C.

Are you swapping between skins or is that happening on one particular skin for each dashboard? Not all skins include main menu temperature information. But if its not that I do not know what would cause this. There must be temperature sensors somewhere but I have no idea if they're incorporated into the chips or are separate MB devices. Neither UnleashX or EvoX (in particular) are trust worthy in regard to the actual temperatures shown (XBMC is the only one I trust for accuracy) but UnleashX is consistent and so helpful, even if inaccurate.

Sorry.... swap what? I think there's been some misunderstanding. He accidentally forgot to eject the disc at the relevant point, that's problem. The AUF disc rebooted and, he says, that resulted in the blank screen and no GUI situation he now has. As said I'm suspicious that he has added to the problems by trying to use a dashupdater.xbe (from Halo 2) but that was, apparently, after he had retried using the installer and AUF just rebooted when he clicked on the Load Mission option. Actually its very good karma - its called being helpful. The original Xbox using community is much larger than this one forum. It also distributes useful information to a much wider audience and perhaps reduces the number of posts repeating questions that have been answered many times before.

Came across this on another Xbox forum: guy tried to softmod with Rocky5's XBSMT using AUF. Installer worked to a point but at the stage where you're meant to reboot, eject the game disc and the softmod install completes he forgot to eject the AUF disc, it booted and the softmod did not complete. Result blank screen and from the sound of it the Xbox is still effectively in retail state but now without the retail MS dashboard. It cold boots original game discs including AUF but running the exploit again just reboots the console and the game reloads. It apparently won't cold boot burned discs, getting that confirmed just to be sure, but it means he can't use Rocky5's Xtras disc or any other recovery disc. The poster also said he tried to run a dash-updater afterwards to restore the original MS dash but 'it did not work'. I'm skeptical about that and am concerned it might have added another level of complexity to the problem. Likely no eeprom backup available but, again, that has to be confirmed. What to do? My thought in the absence of other better advice is to delete the AUF game saves and try with SC or MechAssault or TH4 but I know from my own experience that re-softmodding like that does not always work, the games have a tendency to reboot rather that launch the installer.

I'm pretty sure Splinter Cell was bundled with Xbox in PAL regions. I think my translucent Green LE came with it just in a plastic sleeve. It is not marked as Not For Resale. The other bundled games you'd get as standard in PAL regions were twin games on one disc: Sega GT2002 and JSRF - unlike the Splinter Cell disc they are marked as Not For Resale. Typically though games that come bundled with a console (not just the Xbox) are marked or their cases as Not For Resale. The GC Legend of Zelda Collection is another example I've seen many times being sold in places like CEX in the UK.

If the MB has a TSOP chip it is not a v1.6. Those ST ones often are faded to the point you can barely make out what they are. But if you know they're not Winbond or Sharp, I've never seen either of those being difficult to identify, then that's all you really need to know.

Whether the HDD is or is not locked is almost certainly irrelevant. If the chip is working the lock status shouldn't make any difference and any discs, original retail games discs or burned ones (DVD-R) should cold boot on a chipped machine, its pretty much what it is there for as prtscn has already said. The chip or its connections are most likely broken. Whether it is a 'simple' repair like SS_Dave says it could be or not who knows but I think it would be a sensible idea to replace that horror with an Aladdin type or better. We get so many posts here and on other Xbox forums urging users to 'update' or 'upgrade' their softmods or dashboards for various and not always good reasons. But this looks like an obvious candidate for a chip upgrade particularly in the circumstances.

Regional settings? Are you sure what you downloaded was correct for your Xbox's region? Only time I've seen a blank screen is when the game is regionally locked. Although it depends on the TV the v1.6 480p issue you allude to usually does not result in a blank screen. The game just plays in 480i. Breakdown is also not on the list of known games with v1.6 480p display problems either. If you have the Enigmah region swapper try using PAL instead of NTSC or visa versa but before swapping make sure your TV actually supports the alternative region mode or you may have a problem switching the Xbox back. It could be the download of course. Just because other games from a "reliable" source worked does not mean they all do.

Eeprom reader as KaosEngineer suggested but whether even that will help fix the problem I'm not confident. The suggestion that a major component has gone ie. the eeprom chip as KE also suggested means it needs replacing and that is not an easy job. If you haven't a backup of the eeprom and the eeprom is dead how do you get round that? Even an eeprom reader is not going help in those circumstances. Whether a Xbox would work with a chip fitted but a broken eeprom reader I have no idea but you'd probably still have the problem of unlocking the old HDD too.

No the eeprom is a key unique to each Xbox. It can be nulled so that all other nulled (but still locked of course) HDDs from any other Xbox can be interchanged but the Xbox has to be working to be able to do that.

Once the G:\drive is enabled to get the main menu entries to appear using G:\ as the path it looks as if you'll have to do some more editing to the XML. I do not know Avalaunch all that well but I do not remember there being an Add Source option like XBMC. Unless you come across a really old version of UnleashX the G:\ paths are already included in its config.xml, even HDDLoader, which I'm pretty sure very few people use now. So it looks as if you will have to add the paths you want manually. The template is shown in the example you've provided. Just add under each appropriate section the new path you want to include:- eg. <path> G:\Games </path> and <path> G:\HDDLoader </path> Same thing if you want a G:\Apps or G:\Emulators path too. Just make sure that you do not accidentally put the new entries below the </list> at the end of the list of menu items included in that section. That's the end list command for each section and if you put the new addition below that it won't appear and could mess up the rest of the main menu display below it too. Of course you need to use Avalaunch's File Manager to create the named folders in those locations too.

This is directly from the Avalaunch XML file and it actually tells you how to enable the G:\drive:- "<mount> <!-- Specify whether or not to mount drives If omitted the F:\ drive will be mounted by default If omitted the G:\ drive will NOT be mounted by default --> <F enabled="1"/> <G enabled="0"/> </mount>" So it looks as if all you need to do is scroll down through your avalaunch.xml, find this entry and change the value from "0" to "1". I recommend backing up your original XML first before editing it. Also if for some reason you've decided to use Avalaunch as your main dash do not make the changes to that yet. Copy the Avalaunch folder into Apps and change the avalaunch.xbe name to default.xbe instead. It will now boot as an app and you can test the changes you make to the XML file before applying it to the main dash. A simple safety precaution.

I've not seen an AID download which included any actual Emulators or ROMs. The ROM section has usually just been named folders pre-prepared for about two dozen emulators and ROMs. SPPV's Babylon installer series is effectively an AID update and his downloads, if you can find one still working, did include emulators and a limited number of ROM packs too.

It is usually just because there are so many modified BIOS out there it won't identify the particular BIOS. For instance you have to add things like HeXEns BIOS flashing tools MD5 hashes to it. You can not just copy and paste them to BIOSChecker because it uses a slightly different syntax. Same thing applies to XBMC when adding your BIOS to the system BIOSIDs list too.

I deliberately used Maxell DVD-R as they're the only disc media only packs you can get here in the UK from local shops. You can find over-priced Verbatim in a few places but that's it unless you go online. I've just re-checked and the batch of Maxell DVD-Rs I'm using and used for that successful test burn, as thought are exactly the same CMC MAD. AM3 as the OP used. I will admit that I have had two very bad packs of Maxell DVD-R (x10) in the past: out of the 20 discs 4 gave me unreadable discs and I was burning identical ISOs for testing using identical equipment and settings so it could not have been anything but the discs. But since then all the packs I've bought they've been reliable and there's been no premature ageing problems yet. I do prefer to use Maxell DVD-RW - the two year old batch I'm using are reported as RITEKW06 and I've re-used some of those discs multiple times now. Unfortunately only Hitachi, Samsung 605B and my Thomson disc drive fitted Xboxes like DVD-RW. The two Philips and two Samsung 605F drives I have reject them entirely. My suspicion is still that ssj4yamcha Matshita DVD RW is the problem. I've trouble-shooted at least two cases in the past where after eliminating everything else as a possibility only the PC's DVD RW was left as the cause and indeed when replaced or another burner tried the trouble was resolved. But I'm not rejecting the possibility of a bad batch of discs - if they've not been kept in suitable conditions since purchase or during shipping you could be as unlucky as I was with those two packs. If that failure percentage is typical and repeated you could have 20 bad discs in a 100 pack.

Try again but using Qwix or C Xbox Tools to create the XISO. If that doesn't work then your DVD RW could be the problem. I have come across this type of problem before and if it is not the Xbox disc drive on the way out then what's left? The thing you burned it with. The Philips Xbox drives (both VAD6035/21) I have are the least media friendly in my experience despite what some compatibility tables say. But your one is reading original discs so that suggests it is still OK and it should be happy with DVD-R. EDIT Don't bother with a Qwix or C Xbox Tool test. I've, literally in the last 15 minutes, made an XISO using Extract-XISO (newly installed from Xbox-HQ) and burned that on a Samsung DVD RW to a Maxell DVD-R (x4 ImgBurn). I'm now looking at Soul Calibur 2 Reloaded playing from that disc on a SID/AID softmodded v1.4 Xbox using a Philips drive. So likely only two things it could be now really: as suggest your DVD RW is not burning good discs (ageing laser?) or it is something to do with the BIOS being used. Do you know what that is? It would be an unlikely coincidence but there are versions of the X2 4982 BIOS which apparently don't support backups. My money is on your Mashita DVD RW being the problem. I would suggest you install an UnleashX dash as an app at least and if you prefer it to your clunkly old EvoX main dash and old apps like Boxplorer and PXHDD Loader considered replacing it with that. The integrated File Explorer is far more convenient and functional than Boxplorer. I'll test the disc tomorrow on another v1.4 I have with a Philips drive but that is a TSOP using the HeXEn Evox M8+ F&G BIOS.

Google - to be precise Google "Xbox Bios Checker v5 download". If you don't get several active hits I think your Google is broken.

I think we may need to go back to the download source to find the problem. When you download what type of file are you downloading? Presumably it is Zipped, 7Zipped or RARed but what type of file do you get when it is unpacked? If it is just the Xbox game content files there is always the option of FTPing them instead. If its one of those redump downloads which seem to be all too common now it would explain the problem. If its not that my initial thought was simply that the OP may be creating an XISO out of a double packed game folder. BTW What disc drive type is being used? Try this Soul Calibur Reloaded download as a test:- https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/11VWGgFY7om1blbtSMf5KXhGXJVZ8stJ9 Its only 795MB 7Zipped. Unpack it and you should get a Soul Calibur 2 Reloaded 1.8GB folder with the game files inside. Create an XISO of that folder using Qwix or C Xbox Tool and burn that with ImgBurn "Write Image file to disc" on DVD-R at x4. If your Xbox doesn't boot that your disc drive is the most likely cause of the problem.