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HDShadow

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Everything posted by HDShadow

  1. If you do it you could share the edited file here. I have no use for a Russian language option but it would be interesting to add a good translation to an app like this. I'm sure there must be Russian speaking Xbox users out there who'd greatly appreciate the work too if you're willing and capable of doing it. There could be problems I had not considered though - the font used by C Xbox Tools might not support Cyrilic characters. There are font files in the Media folder but they're XPR and apart from the fact I have no idea if these are the ones actually used by C Xbox Tool for the menus you may have to look into substituting in a font that does have Cyrillic character support. That would involve using Xbox FontMaker and I'm not sure where you'd find that now.
  2. I've done a successful TSOP on another Xbox and I may well do another but I'm not convinced that it actually makes any practical difference to me when compared to my softmods. If the TSOP is stuffed up the Xbox is practically a write off unless you install a chip. I do not like the thought of that however unlikely. If something goes wrong with my softmods I can fix it or at least get it working again as I have backup basic softmodded stock HDDs locked and set up for use with every Xbox I have. This chip installing project is just that, a project - I do not really need to do it but it will be very useful having another chipped machine available.
  3. Interested as to why this didn't work as tried originally. From the evidence provided it could be that there was not enough space on E:\. But if it was eventually installed successfully in E:\Apps that doesn't make sense. My guess is that the previous version of XBMC4Gamers was there already but.........................................from the description of the error I also had the thought that cursed92 might have accidentally been trying to copy the old XBMC4Gamers install to D:\ rather than from it. That sort of mistake is very easy to make when using the XBMC file manager with certain skins where the pane you're using is not as well indicated as it could be.
  4. Understood, thanks again - I will try doing it again with the pins as recommended later this week. The first thing I did before even attempting the LPC pin header install was to connect the BT point as shown.
  5. If you look in the C Xbox Tool folder contents there's a lang.clf (CLF I assume means Custom Language File) in my version of C Xbox Toll v2.0.7 the only alternative language provided by this is Turkish. The file can be opened in Wordpad or other similar programs and can be edited apparently. The file shows the C Xbox Tool menu names in English and their Turkish equivalent eg. (direct copy of the first six lines of the Turkish CLF):- [Turkce] Add=Ekle Edit=Degistir Start=Baslat ISO Extraction=ISO Acmak Extract to=Klasore ac... etc etc So I guess you just copy what's there and replace it all with the Russian equivalent. Then either substitute that in or add it to the existing lang.clf. Problem is there is a lot to do; several hundred entries to change. If you look under Option > Preferences you'll see it actually language support for Danish, Dutch, German, French, Spanish, Swedish, Italian, Portuguese, Norwegian and Finnish.The language support for those must be embedded in the EXE so the fact that Turkish has been added in a CLF should mean any other language can be added as well or instead of Turkish. You just have to do the translation work yourself.
  6. I actually soldered that to an alternative ground point: the nearest screw plate as per earlier recommendations but are you saying I should connect it instead to the chip's D0 pad instead? My feeling was that the fact the console booted OK when I cut the wire meant the D0 connection was doing what it was meant too and that it had been good until I snipped it. It surely confirms that the problem is with the chip or the pin soldering, not the D0 point connection. I want the LED to come on when the Xbox is powered up but one of the reasons I followed the guide to remove four pins rather than just the one was because it said the chip LED would turn on as long as the Xbox was connected to the mains if you did not remove pin 6. Looking at that LPC pinout, removing pin 12 GND seems a bit pointless so that really only leaves the LFrame pin 3 removal open to question. Would that pin not being connected cause the chip not to boot because if its not that then it must be my soldering or, hopefully not, the chip itself is faulty. My money is on my soldering but it seems most sensible to reinstate all the pins removed except 4 and see if it works.
  7. Is that really the accepted/standard convention for numbering the pins? I'm familiar with chip pinouts where they're numbered anti-clockwise from an identified pin 1 position. The pinouts I've had most experience with are SCART TV connector cables where the pins are numbered: (1) bottom left, (2) bottom right, (3) second row up left and so on but, of course, the receiving SCART socket is the reverse of that ie. as for the ^ numbering of the LPC socket in that pic. The SCART cable pins themselves are still identified as I described left to right from the bottom left up. But if that LPC socket pinout ID is the accepted convention for referring to the pins too I'm not going to be pedantic and argue with it.
  8. I'll restore the other 3 pins then. Sorry to be pedantic but you both say ^ ^^ pin 4 is the only one that needs removing but surely it would be better if you called it pin 3? Pin 3 is actually what goes into the chip, its only pin 4 if you're looking from the bottom of the MB which of course you won't see when the MB is replaced in position.
  9. Would removing the extra pins cause the chip not to work when using a v1.1?
  10. Been busy on other things but bit the bullet and tried installing the chip today. All seemed to go OK..........................................except the result was the Xbox (v1.1) ended up fragging. There's no indication of any power to the chip, the LED doesn't even come on momentarily. I snipped the (alternative) D0 point connection I made to the nearest screw hole plate and as far as I've tested it the Xbox still boots OK so there's been no accidental damage to the MB or components. But that means there's likely something wrong with the pin header connections. But I've checked the soldering and whilst its not pretty it looks OK. Is there any way to test if/what power is on each pin so I can perhaps find the culprit and fix it? BTW I did the full (12) LPC pin header pin removal thing as suggested in several guides and SS_Dave ^ ie. looking down on the pin header from above removed pins 3, 4, 5 and 11.
  11. ^ Toss up between the Samsung 605F (second least compatible/tray issues) and the Philips (least compatible, becomes even less compatible with age and, my experience is that I've had one that was working fail completely). I've had a Samsung 605F totally fail recently too - the main ribbon cable connector just broke off. In both cases these were Xboxes I bought used with who knows how much abuse but you can only go on your own experience if you're answering a question like that. My Philips disc drives are the ones without question ageing the least well. Too be honest I haven't used the Thomson I have much at all. Its noisier than any of the others, something which I do not like, but it still works reliably. So better than the Philips.
  12. I've been following this problem on another forum and one of the solutions suggested was using either of the other two unused cap mounting positions, as seen in the first pic. The fix seems plausible with the idea being that as long as the total value of the caps equals or exceeds 7500uF (6.3v) (5 x 1500uF) and does not exceed 9600uF (6.3v) (3 x 3300uF) it should work. But the information provided was that the OP had tried that and it didn't. Is there an explanation for this because otherwise it sounded to me like the simplest solution.
  13. I always wonder in votes like this how many people have actually used all the drives. I thought I had until I found out there were actually two Philips and two Thomson models and both have, reported, somewhat different media preferences and reliability. There are also significant variations in the published media compatibility tables you can find online too. My own quite extensive testing on the Thomson (late), Samsung 605B, Samsung 605F, Philips (late), Hitachi (I have two of each except the Thomson) supports some online compatibility information but completely contradicts others. The only thing that is actually agreed 100% is that DVD-R is the only universal type and if it does not work chances are the media batch is bad or your disc drive has a problem. There is also the question of what constitutes the "best". Quite frankly the fact the Samsung 605B has the greatest compatibility is irrelevant. It doesn't make it the best IMHO. Reliability is, for me the key issue, and the Hitachi wins hands down in that respect. Both my Hitachis gave me identical results. They do not like any CD-R at all but that is it, anything else they'll boot including DVD-RW. I have an Hitachi in my most used Xbox and it has never given me any problems. All five Samsung drives I've owned have eventually needed replacement/reconditioned drive belts and even then that has not always cured disc tray eject/close issues 100%. The only problem is that the Hitachi drives seem to be less common in the US so fewer users and therefore I would expect in a poll like this the Samsung 605B is going to walk away with the prize. Another example of how in a free poll the majority vote sometime produces the wrong result.
  14. According to a Thomson disc drive disassembly guide I've just found the top housing is held by two #1 Philips head screws. https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Xbox+Thomson+DVD+Drive+Disassembly/129534 That appears to mean they are either M2.5 or M3 thread but what length, no idea. I'd bet on them being flat head M3 which are commonly supplied for mounting motherboards and HDDs so you might have some already. Possibly they're not M3 but an equivalent UNC 4-40 or 6-32 or UNF 4-40 or 6-40. If you try the typically T15 head screws used to secure the Xbox HDD in the caddy and they fit then they're M3 so just buy a 10 pack same size as those if you do not have any spares but with Philips head.
  15. If you are going to be happy with a 160GB HDD you can still find unused/low use IDE ones harvested from old PVRs and similar devices. They sometimes go at under £20/$30 including shipping but the prices being asked by many sellers on Ebay/Amazon now are often absurd. Paying more than £20/$30 for a 250GB or less HDD is silly when you can get new 320GB SATA ones for the same cost. There are some interesting 'bargains' though - I've just seen a Seagate 750GB IDE HDD marked as opened but unused for £50/$65 including shipping. Although you can get a factory sealed ITB SATA HDD + adapter for that sort of money its not bad value.
  16. Never had a problem with the one Thomson drive I have's eject/close operation so never needed to replace the belt. The Hitachi likewise. I'd always assumed they used the same size but from your post I guess that is not the case. The ones that work well with the Samsungs and are indeed interchangeable with the XB360 are 22mm (inside diameter) square profile. I know this for sure because I tested an original drive belt (reconditioned) and it fitted just very slightly stretched over an old circular UK £1 coin. Those were exactly 22.5mm diameter. However there is a materials' issue involved as well - not all the 22mm drive belts I've bought have had the same flexibility, some have been made of a slightly harder, less stretchy 'rubber'. There are also non-electrical device drive belt alternatives bought from places like DIY and plumbing supplies shops as water pipe sealing rings that are made of softer materials and so stretch more. If you have the original Thomson belt you could try measuring that. Even if it broken you can use some simple maths to determine the diameter. One thing I've found you should not do is get a belt that is too small. You think the tighter the better but no. Beyond a certain point the tightness the belt actually seems to slip on the drive wheels causing the eject/close mechanism to malfunction just as it does when too loose.
  17. If it is using a X2 BIOS it is not a softmod. Possibly a TSOP. If the disc being used was on an incompatible media type then it would explain the disc boot problem. Could also be instead that the HeXEn disc wasn't cold booted. If it is hardmodded and he used the Chimp softmod options that would also explain why the clone HDD does not boot. It is probably looking for the dash C:\xboxdash.xbe when it is most likely now E:\something.xbe. Only guesses but I think it fits the evidence provided. FTP access possible?
  18. Very helpful posts guys - thanks!
  19. No I built the new softmodded HDD using AID on my chipped Xbox. Unless the second part of that ^ is essential it seemed the easiest way of doing it rather than use XBHDM. Unfortunately I have another problem now, in fact two. The used Xbox concerned was sold as having a working (Philips) disc drive and was the main reason I bought it. It was working initially, I tested it on another Xbox. But it now appears to have partially died. It ejects/closes and discs spin up as but I'm now getting a consistent error 12 even though its all cabled up correctly. I've swapped out the old IDE cable to a known working one with no change and when I tried it in that same other Xbox again it also produced the error 12. I was suspicious that the disc drive might have been messed about with as two screw were missing from the drive casing but this has come out of the blue. The drive had the IDE cable taken out yesterday, when the box was turned off, to force error 12 for the HDD Chimp hot-swaps I was trying but apart from that I've not touched it. The second problem is that although I taken the HDD and disc drive caddies out before I'd not noticed that three of the 6.3v 3300uF caps are domed and I'm pretty sure the clock cap has leaked a bit too. So if I want this particular Xbox to work 100% again, and I do, I'm going to have replace those before doing anything else.
  20. The key thing here is the unlocking of the HDD during the hot-swap to PC to be able, in SergioDeNice's case, to install the XBHDM created softmod. That's what the problem is and why I posted about my similar issue: swapping under error 12 does not work on some systems or particular circumstances. There's no way I could have messed up the IDE cable swaps under error 12 between Xboxes; I've hot-swapped (unlocked obviously) new HDDs for Chimp cloning purposes dozens of times successfully. If it was just a simple matter of disconnecting the disc drive, booting the Xbox to get error 12 and doing a quick hot-swap to the PC as the OP wants to do we'd both be laughing. But it clearly is not. Maybe it works better in reverse as Ging3rGuy suggested ie. hot-swapping a new unlocked, XBHDM created softmodded HDD to a running stock Xbox under error 12. However I've have been trying to do that same thing between Xboxes and it just has not worked. The new HDD on reboot goes to error 5. The way I successfully did an unlock on a stock drive and connect it to a PC was to hot-swap at around the time the Microsoft logo appears under the Xbox logo. But it took multiple attempts before I found that point, so I've never repeated the exercise.
  21. SID/AID have dual boot options and unless he removed it recently Rocky5's XBSMT included a dual boot install facility, I think on the Extras disc. Problem with SID/AID is that you're limited to only two dual boot options: main dash/installer dash and main dash/MS dash. It may be possible to edit the dual boot SID/AID options to launch something else but I've never even thought to try that. Dual boot is practically redundant when you can install any dash as an app and with UnleashX you also have the controller shortcut options too where you can assign any button to launch any XBE at boot. Obviously UnleashX has to load to a certain point first but there is really very little additional delay in launching the alternative dash or whatever.
  22. That's ^^ essentially the problem I been having over the past two days with the error 16 HDD I mentioned in another thread here. I disconnect the disc drive to instead get error 12 but the HDD unlock does not work on a Win7 SP1 (64 bit) PC. It did not work on my old WinXP SP3 (32 bit) either when I tried the same thing years ago. Today I tried with Chimp using a hot-swap to a softmodded machine. As described in an old post by Rocky5 the HDD was set to Cable Select. If set to Slave you don't get an error 16 the Xbox eventually decides there's no HDD and goes to error 7. First I tried an error 16 hot-swap on the Chimp 261812 v1.01 swap screen. Result - Chimp hung when I pressed A. Tried swapping on the dash but that corrupted Chimp, reporting no Chimp default.xbe found. That led me to the conclusion that using CS, even though the other HDD was on Master, was actually trying to use the hot-swap HDD as Master. So next time I bought on the error 16 again but before the hot-swap pulled the jumper so it was on Slave. Chimp still hung after pressing A. Many variations tried under error 16 including both set to CS but all failed. What eventually got Chimp working was doing it under either error 12 (disc drive disconnected) or error 7 (the aforementioned way) but complete with the jumper swap to Slave immediately before the IDE cable swap. It reported additional errors with hdb (the Slave) during the Chimp boot process and ended up warning that it was locked and needed unlocking. Now into Chimp what to do? Scanned the two HDD: both identified correctly but hdb reported a locked with maximum security. Tried unlocking from the MB which as expected did nothing. Same result using TEAMASSEMBLY or XBOXSCENE. Afterwards I tried the Fix Error 16 option anyway and something was going on with repeated message about hdb no DRQ (?) and reporting I/O errors so I let it run for an hour but whatever it was doing I realised was futile so ended the process. The point is forcing error 12 is clearly not unlocking the this particular error 16 HDD. Hot-swapping under error 16 breaks Chimp if you leave the jumper on CS or swap to Slave before the hot-swap. This confirms the reasons why yesterday I could not get the PC to initialise the HDD - it needs to be unlocked or perhaps not locked with maximum security for Xplorer360 or XBHDM USB to even see it. None of the recommended techniques appear to work. Is it possible to get an error 16 on a HDD that is not from that particular Xbox? That's the only explanation I can think of at this point.
  23. Thanks, its just that these anomalies in how thing work bothers me. For instance whilst, as said, you need an initialised HDD for Xplorer360 and even then you get that difference in what you can do when using Win7 (64bit) and WinXP (32bit) compatibility mode. But why does this only happen with a FATX formatted HDD? A <4GB FATX formatted flash drive also has its own differences in behaviour ie. under Win7 (64bit) you can copy to and from it no problem. But, as I found last night, if you use WinXP SP2/3 compatibility mode drag and drop to the drive stops working. However I have WinXP SP2/3( 32bit) on a VM and when I boot that with the same FATX formatted flash drive set as shared volume I can copy both ways - no problem. What I can't do, so far, is get that uninitialised FATX HDD to be recognised by the XP VM. I like to try to understand these 'quirks' on some level but in this case a lot of it does not make any sense to me.
  24. Will XBHDM USB actually see the HDD if its not initialised? Xplorer360 if launched takes some time checking but under both Win7 (default) and Win7 (compatibility mode) it reports no FATX device found. But I will try it.
  25. Not in the folder, I installed it to the Windows folder years ago now. Win7 doesn't come with that DLL by default and Xplorer360 won't launch at if you do not have it. It will actually say which DLL is missing. But I've just tried a copy of it in the same folder as Xplorer360 to see if it made a difference; it did not. To see the FATX HDD I still need to use WinXP SP2 or 3 compatibility and, as said, using that appears to mean I can't copy anything to the HDD. Must be a Win7/Vista thing if it works 100% with Win10. Its getting a bit frustrating on another related front too - the error 16 HDD from the recently purchased 'for parts' Xbox I'm trying to fix. Even just being able to see what's on that would be helpful. With the copy from facility still working there might even be an eeprom backup I could get to and use to lock the other softmodded HDD I've prepared. I've tried multiple hot-swaps to my PC and Windows disc management sees the damned thing, reports it as a HDD, the correct unallocated space and even identifies it as a ST310014ACE. But to use it you need to be able to initialise it and when I try to do that there is in I/O error report preventing it initialising. I'm fairly sure that means it is still locked but whatever I've done, hot-swapping at various points under error 16 or 12 (DVD drive disconnected) I'm still getting that message. Any suggestions/tips on hot-swapping appreciated.

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