Puritan001

Yeah, linus tech tips showed an alpha 1 and 2 and built one the same.. Unrelated, one came up for sale in my area and I was second. First guy got it for 500, got it booting then sold it for 15k to a museum or something. Typical me second place gets nothing. Lol Now parts used for building an alpha clone will get rare and prices will soar after linus told everyone how hu?

No. You'll need a startech sata to ide adapter, a 80 wire ultra ide cable and you'll want to check the version do you can look for a bad clock capacitor and also visually check other capacitors. Ftp is limited to 10mb/s because the hardware, most now use fatxplorer beta 3 to move files quickly.

Yes those look correct

On xbins under firmware you'll find files for 4 dvd drives you can flash to work on xbox.

I think the fix error 16 way is easier. What i did in the past is used rocky5 chimp. Currently i don't use or recommend origins but that's another story. Do use raw copy to get the drive built as your saying. Once that's done use rocky5 chimp and. Set the origin drive to slave and your softmod to master. In chimp after you hotswap choose the option repair error 16. Then once done chimp will lock the drive . Change origin to master, take out the old softmod and boot. That should be it, but if you don't get the origins on boot you can use rocky 5 bootloader tool thing or create a shortcut xbe to launch xbmc4xbox on boot. In my experience in the past that was the easiest way Now that fatxplorer beta 3 has drive locking maybe it would be easier to unlock and copy c from old softmod then copy its c to origin c partition and re lock in fatxplorer but I've quit messing with origins before that capability came out.

Clock capacitors are known to leak causing trace rot. It's normal even with a good capacitor to only keep time a day or two, but removal or replacement of the clock capacitor is recommended to protect the mainboard. Unless it's already been removed or replaced?

If all you need is the plastic anyone with a resin printer can make you one, someone shared the files on thingeverse a long time ago and they work great I made a lot before I got rid of my resin printer. Made in white resin at the right angle they look identical to the real buttons. As far as the parts kekule has the bom on github under x3 redux.

I am at a point in my life that if I build an xbox I do a full re cap. All the power supply and motherboard capacitors that are electrolytic get replaced ( I no longer solder but jakos electronics has done great for work for me). I also like to put a open xenium mod chip, star tech sata adapter, and 80 wire ultra ide cable. I prefer cmr western digital black hard drives. I usually replace thermal paste with mx4 and lap the heat sink. Is a lot of work and it's exs. However I've never had any issues with an xbox after doing these steps... I believe you may have a power issue, and full recap may fix it, or the hard drives you selected are not great for this application, or both. Clearing cache and delete e udata and tdata can sometimes help. I have experienced similar issues with wd blue and Seagate hybrid drives (like barracuta) they have power saving and smr or hybrid supposedly similar to being part ssd? But once I changed to western digital black I no longer suffered these issues. If you use a wd black and have issues then I'd think it's a power issue. Most of the capacitors in these machines are dying and should be replaced imo. Anyway happy gaming. And happy holidays

Why sick with ind? Why not use cerbios and put a video of the original flubber to run

Cerbios has a ini file open it with a notepad like notepad++ and change fan speed.

If it's a hardmod you need to set the fan speed to 100 in bios. If it's a softmod you need to go into nkpatcher or whatever rocky5 calls it now and change the fan speed there, not just in the dash.

Right, just dump the bedbugs, roaches and human skin dust onto your living room floor. Lol I'm mostly kidding my God I saw some nasty ass xboxes, people been hoovering crystal off 'em for 20 years and spilling the bong water in them, no big deal tho. If it's clean and working don't fix it. That's true

This is an original xbox thread/forum, nothing here should be applied to a xbox one x. I once had a similar issue as op. Put 2 much arctic silver 5, it connected 2 pins and red green. A good cleaning and less paste (I changed to using mx4 as it isn't conducive anyway) restored it. I've never had issue with ipa91. I got into a habit of washing the entire system in the dishware (well ,all but the hard drive and dvd) and then washing with ipa91% bath. The full recap, new paste on lapped heatsinks, typically a mod chip of some kind, no issues for 99%. I have quit doing xboxes but I softness miss those days. Funny how people think water is an issue, it really is the contaminate in the water that could conduct. Pure water from r/o or distillery is not Conductive unless it isn't actually pure anymore. Either way I religiously used orange citric goo off and 91%ipa from Walmart, white vinegar in my dishwasher, mx4. Only had the issue once early on before I changed to these techniques. Best theory ever However if it ain't broke don't fix it...

I wasted a good portion of the last 3 or 4 years, lots of time and money on this idea. I've created then thrown away at least 6 full prototype xbox case prints that I was not happy with, redesigned several times etc. Here is a link to all versions from start to finish. It's not perfected still, but I am happy enough with mine that I'm not willing to pursue this anymore. I've shared them on cults3d and thingiverse but it's hard to put all the data there. To be clear, anyone can do anything they want with any files I've shared.. print and sell, edit, etc etc. Includes x3cp stl, xtender stl, stock face stl, power button stl, and prototype stl or obj files. I even tried to make a theme based on prototype. It should all be found here. https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1jPioe3_N8f_HiEhmXxccLfFvJ9h86N6K

What resin printer? I shared a stock faceplate as well as a x3cp faceplate that I scanned and attempted to prefect over last winter. (Is on cults and thingeverse) I printed mine in resin and it was great at first but it shrink over time which irritated me greatly so I gave it away.

You have to change the entire xbox to ntsc not just the game or dash. I think Rocky5 tools disk and hexen both have a area for it, but I don't remember specifics. I feel like you had to boot the original dash then in its settings change region. It's fine to do that because modded xbox are region free so your PAL games would still work fine but you may need ntsc ones to have HD on that I'm unsure. Changing it in the game or dash isn't sufficient, you've got to set the xbox to ntsc, I think they're maybe newer better way on rock 5 tools (like nkpatcher thing or something) but I can't recall for sure.

I decided to remove Facebook and tiktok and all the other garbage from my phone... I purposely left the Xbox scene and sold my 3d printers and extra xbox parts.... However now when I get bored I have nothing to do but shovel snow, so I may pop in here out of boredom.... I will only try to be helpful, otherwise I'll get to keep my mouth shut. My last attempt at a prototype is nearly done and I plan to use it until I die. Lol Peace out.

Looks like a Gregory oled all in one open xenium with i2c oled chip built in, maybe early version as I think they made it smaller now.

Do you know if this guide works for them? https://stinger-magazine.com/side-stories/how-to-play-ninja-gaidens-hurricane-packs/

I'm currently at work. Open the xbmc4gamers downloader, go to other, there are 3 scripts, one is for rehash hdd key for dlc, one a cache formatter, and i forget what the other is off hand maybe alternative art for screen saver.

It's a regular 40 pin with the center blocked opposite the tab. I had a special cable made for my xtender project by stonewall cables, it cost me 85 dollars, but worked perfectly. I had a hard time finding 80 conductor 40 pin connectors, so on my test cable I ordered several of the cheapest 18" ultra ide cables and took the connectors off and put them on a Manhattan 36" cable ( I was going for 3 hard drives tho) A regular 24" Manhattan ultra ide cable works very well if folded correctly.

There is a script in xbmc4gamers downloader to rehash the dlc to the new hdd key. It's only an issue if you don't either re download the dlc or rehash it with the script... being there are multiple ways to fix it, I don't see it as an issue, but I guess that's just me. I still encourage anyone with dlc not on the list to attempt to get a copy of it to rocky5 so he can add it.

If someone has a dlc that is not in the list on xbmc4gamers downloader I encourage them to get ahold of rocky5 and get it to him. Once they are in the downloader it's not really something to worry about anymore unless you've no access to internet.

Hard to belive a reputable? Seller would ship a board without testing it.

They are fragile. Seller should try to package them much better than ghost case ever did imo. They survive better if warm. I used to get them for 30 dollars at ghost case and dry them in the heater vent for a half hour before install so I could put them on without breaking them.