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UnleashX can be installed as an app very simply too. So you can keep the current primary dash then switch to UnleashX as required. I'm interested as to why the OP wants to this main dash swap. Most of my primary dashboards have been and are UnleashX for many reasons like its file manager. But a significant one is also because I've created/edited a whole load of skins for it over the years and spent a lot of time getting them as good as possible. It is an on going project I go back to regularly when I have spare time but don't fancy a game. BUT for any multi-media use XBMC is simply better. UnleashX's music player has a broken GUI so when I wanted to set up a Xbox for 'kitchen' use where music playing and the occasional DVD primarily, using XBMC as the main dash was a no brainer.

My suggestion would be not to delete any dashboard for now. Instead install whatever dashboard you would like to try such as UnleashX. Use dashloader customizer to boot UnleashX on startup and see how you like it. If you decide UnleashX is the dash you want and you wouldnt use XBMC4Gamers, then go ahead and delete XBMC4Gamers at that point.

closest mode to calibrated TV is movie/cinema mode, other modes are gimmicks. Calibration patterns in video are open source. https://www.avsforum.com/threads/avs-hd-709-blu-ray-mp4-calibration.948496/ And if you have calibration device for more in depth calibration there is an open source software: https://www.avsforum.com/threads/hcfr-open-source-projector-and-display-calibration-software.1393853/ You get better colors, better contrast, less eye strain because most profiles have blue channel so high up to make impression of a brighter TV. Worst offenders are laptop screens. If you work with a computer all day, calibration will help with tired eyes.

Experiment with the modes. you may get better colors that way.

I have testet the Delock 62510, Delock 61702 & Renkforce RF-4886682. All wörk fine with UDMA5 (I have a video about it on YT). The Renkforce 973767 is untestet but I would assume since it's also a Marvel adapter that he will work just fine. And btw. there is another one the " IDE-SATA07 " which is the same as the EOL Dedlock. How ever it should not be to hard for someone with the skill, to design a custom PCB based on the marvell 88sa8052. That way you could make your own ones for less then 10 bucks (In bulk may even cheaper than that).

We need to get rid of this StarTech stigmata. There are some SATA 2 IDE adapters out there like Renkforce or Delock which also use a Marvel controller chip. And all of these support up to UDMA6.

Feels good to finally do something that I've seen others talk about for years. And it actually WORKED. lol. I soldered the points.

The CPLD on the X3 modchip is not an Actel AP075. It was re-labeled by Team Xecuter to thwart others from cloning. It is a Lattice LC4256V-75T100C; however, now obsolete - no longer manufactured. I'm not sure which currently produced part is a good replacement part.

Well, now things are better, well, sort of. Up doesn't trigger any other buttons, but B isn't responding. Mario is just walking around, and won't spit flower-fire balls... GD, wtf?? How dumb am I??!! I need to reset some of the controller mappings in the emulator, cause it defaults using the X button for B and I'm wired the Dukes B button , not X!! hahah, ok, simple fix and viola, mario runs and spits fire balls!!!! YAY!!, but he jumps funny, seems like a latency issue. he's a little delayed... Ok, last attempt but this time I've attached a regular, non modded Duke, fire up the Xbox and emulator, then switch the non-modded with the NES-hack-job-controller and it's picture perfect. I'm playing NES games, with an NES controller, on my modded Xbox. The concept is proven, works, and is up my alley. Cost to complete= $0 for those with wire, solder supplies, and spare controllers. I priced out the controllers at the local game-spot equiv. and for under $20 I could get both controllers to hack apart. What can I improve? Find 9 or 10 wire so I don't have 2 wires run like some mad max sex toy. Then I could even put connectors on the Duke, and pigtail from NES, SNES, or Sega controller to easily switch them out. My project is only an Xbox/NES controller. This fills my needs 100% though. I dont want to use the NES controller on any other device, I dont mind the wires, I still have an xbox controller too, the price was right, time to complete was less then ordering something and waiting for it to be shipped and still might not have worked, so yeah, I'm happy. I hope someone else likes it too. I'm not sure I'll put too much more time into this other then a few tweaks on V1.1 (so I can play 2 play on NES emulator). However, I'll jump on a smooth riding bandwagon to the more technical endpoint if someone else get's to making this better with a Arduino or other angle of attack. And thank you all for your input and help!!! and please don't be offended if I didnt take your advice this time as I still value it and may come back to it later!!

Ok, with that all done, time for some testing!! Uh?? what's going on boss, stuff's jenky~~> ....Wtf?? SOOOO,things aren't peachy, got a few glitches now, butttt something is working. Ah, ok, I'll isolate the NEW switches, cause signals could be going through the Cmos and causing back-feed type of issue. When trying to play with it right now, the up button actually triggers the A button, so mario is jumping when I run left or right and accidentally bump the Up pad.... weird, but the above though process helped me go back and re think. Cracked her back open and scraped the traces clear just as they go into the Cmos, making each switch completely independent. This picture shows the ground trace separated. I just dug in behind my bird-poo glue and hacked the traces all the way round, just past my solder points. So now it's: Button switch, trace, soldered on wire, cut trace, Cmos. Guess I'm never using this controller on an NES again ...

Ok, here's some pics of the Duke Xbox controller's back/bottom side. Unfortunately, I didn't take pics of the tops side, but theres plenty of the Duke on a google image search. Point being, on the top side, there's a [conductive] adhesive strip covering the A, B, X, Y, Black, and White button switches. I peeled that back to see the pads, which all share a common, presumably ground. From the A & B switches, I Ohm'd out their respective via's, and luckily most had test pads, on the bottom side. I also did that with the Dpad switches and Start & Back. The pics show the new wiring connected to the Dpad along the Start and Back(Select). I simply used some stranded 6-wire phone cable, and fished it through the memory card slot which has an open spot, no drilling or modifying to fit needed. Start: White wire, TP18 Up: Black wire Down: Red wire Left: Green wire Back/Select: Yellow wire Right: Blue wire

Here's a different tutorial about connecting an NES or SNES to the Xbox - http://beachy.freeshell.org/games/xboxctrl/ - titled NES/SNES controllers on the Xbox. It requires a lot of unsoldering and soldering to make all the connections from the NES/SNES controller to an Xbox controller's printed circuit board.

If I had to guess, I'd say the board is an original xbox controller trimmed to fit in a snes controller case with the buttons wired up where the other buttons used to be. I think that is also what they were doing in that article you posted.