nerdbombing

After looking through Pound's website, I followed their suggestion of powering the usb connector on the pound unit. After doing that, I haven't gotten any drop outs like before. I tapped into the HDD's 5v and ground lines, ran them to a female USB plug that I mounted throught the case near the ethernet port. then i just used a USB to micro(or mini, whatever the pound connector is) cable. So i don't need to take up another outlet, etc., and it came out quite clean. I'll post some pics here soon. Thanks for your help folks!

What's your xbox setup look like? Dash? TSOP, chip, softmod?

That makes total sense, however it seems to have worked by ways of FTP. I have a folder on my PC with a few different Config.xml for either softmod or tsop since menu items are different. I have a test one that I used to test SNTP and found to work. I FTP'd to the console and transferred said config.xml . FYI, actual name on my PC is configTSOP2.xml, and once transferred I renamed the console's config.xml to configOEM.xml, and renamed the FTP'd configTSOP2.xml to config.xml. Rebooted and the config.xml loads as intended (except recent SNTP issues). ANYWAY, I did the same thing, for the evoxdash.xbe files. When I checked the system info, it shows the older version of UnleashX, and looks good so far. Essentially, it boils down to skins, so if someone doesn't care to update skins that utilize the newer UnleashX's features, it's a moot point then, right? I'm familiar with your skins folder, you helped me iron out my current favorite, True MS dash2 Green, back here: https://www.ogxbox.com/forums/index.php?/topic/1190-unleashx-skin-most-identical-to-msdash/&do=findComment&comment=20172 Thanks again for that!

You say "additional features in the .... skinning engine", can you explain that to me? I'm not sure what skinning engine is, and what features the newer UnleashX offers over the version 0.39.0522A Build 572 like you use or the 0.39.0222A Build 572 I use. I tried, and it does seem that simple in so far as now my Games list populates instantly, and all the "built in" icons show. *EDIT: I could have just as simply moved the evoxdash.xbe file that's already on my E:\ partition of the TSOP'd box, since there is one there because I had to softmod the console in the first place, and my softmod process uses the older UnleashX version.

Thanks, SOFTMOD: 0.39.0222A Build 572 Path: E:\ \Device\Harddisk0\Partition1\evoxdash.xbe TSOP re-flashed: 0.39.0528A Build 584 Path: C:\ \Device\Harddisk0\Partition2\evoxdash.xbe So is it as simple as: just take a copy of the evoxdash.xbe from it's E:\ partition on the softmod, and replace/overwrite the evoxdash.xbe file on the TSOP'd C:\ partition, and badda bing, the TSOP is running the older UnleashX?

What exactly should I do to accomplish this? I've looked at C and E drives comparatively between a TSOP re-flashed HDD and my softmod HDD, I'm not sure how and which files control that stuff. Such as, in my C on Tsop re-flashed, the C drive contains my config.xml, and I would assume the dash is run from there, however in my E drive, there is a Dash folder, but I'm fairly certain the UnleashX and EvolutionX folders there are NOT running unless I go to "Select Dash" within the console. As if the main UnleashX that boots is NOT the same UnleashX in mentioned folder on E drive. (My TSOP boxes have config.xml's in the main E folder, in the Dash folder, then again within UnleashX folder and none in the EvolutionX folder. But only the config.xml on C is what effects changes to my dash.) Whereas on my softmod box, I don't have a Dash or Dashboard folder and my config.xml is located on the E drive folder. Is there any TDATA or UDATA files/folders that are included in the dash running? Sorry for my ignorance, I'm still learning here, and thanks again for the input!

My TSOP's are using the 0.39.0528A Build 584, which would explain why when I FTP'd large amounts, I would get freeze ups... All my softmods have UnleashX Ver: 0.39.0222A Build 572 Maybe I'll try the older version on my TSOP reflashed boxes.

Yes, well there's a minor difference, you can see below. I'm going to remove the paths for E and G since I only put games on F, and try to keep the HDD from searching in other spots; maybe that'll speed things up. The lower set of codes is for the TSOP'd, and it has the Paths indented/tabbed over one more compared to the softmod code... <List Text="Games" Sort="Off" Auto="On"> <List Text="XBOX" Sort="On" Auto="On"> <Path>E:\Games</Path> <Path>F:\Games</Path> <Path>G:\Games</Path> </List> <List Text="Retro" Sort="On" Auto="On"> <Path>E:\Emulators</Path> <Path>F:\Emulators</Path> <Path>G:\Emulators</Path> </List> <List Text="Ports" Sort="On" Auto="On"> <Path>E:\Ports</Path> <Path>F:\Ports</Path> <Path>G:\Ports</Path> </List> </List> <List Text="Games" Sort="Off" Auto="On"> <List Text="XBOX" Sort="On" Auto="On"> <Path>E:\Games</Path> <Path>F:\Games</Path> <Path>G:\Games</Path> </List> <List Text="Retro" Sort="On" Auto="On"> <Path>E:\Emulators</Path> <Path>F:\Emulators</Path> <Path>G:\Emulators</Path> </List> <List Text="Ports" Sort="On" Auto="On"> <Path>E:\Ports</Path> <Path>F:\Ports</Path> <Path>G:\Ports</Path> </List> </List> Here is what I'm going to try next: <List Text="Games" Sort="Off" Auto="On"> <List Text="XBOX" Sort="On" Auto="On"> <Path>F:\Games</Path> </List> <List Text="Retro" Sort="On" Auto="On"> <Path>E:\Emulators</Path> <Path>F:\Emulators</Path> </List> <List Text="Ports" Sort="On" Auto="On"> <Path>F:\Ports</Path> </List> </List> *EDIT: The last section of code above didnt change anything, still took a while to populate the list.

I'm not sure I follow you here. I'm using SID511.installer.usb and the SID511.Loader.SplinterCell.NTSC files for softmodding. Is this the same as Rocky5's? Broadly speaking, I've always been able to change, and retain, LED color settings by means of the UnleashX dash. I find it weird that this one xbox constitutes 8% of my modded xboxes, and I've never needed to use NKPatcher. But you've taught me a lot over the past couple years, @KaosEngineer.... Acknowledged. I hear ya. Not sure if it's UnleashX as a whole, or just this one case. As I checked on another box, and when I change a setting for SNTP, it's immediately changed the config.xml, and hasn't reverted to stock settings at all. Man, I may seem to be non believing here, but why do my TSOP reflashed boxes not suffer from the same affliction even though they have the same hardware? Absolutely, you're correct. I forgot to mention I did replace the entire C with the complete contents, but it would lock me into MS dash. I then reset verything with PC, restored the original C after softmod, but I couldn't get into the MS dash, it would just freeze. I then replaced just the xboxdash.xbe but still got locked in MS dash even after rebooting(powering down and on again). To add to my previous stuff: I notice on my softmods, once in UnleashX, I select the "Games" menu item where it loads all my games for viewing. On my softmods, those game populate the list in a second, very fast, and they also (almost) all have icons that appear. Whereas on all my TSOP flashes, it takes upto 20 seconds for the games list to populate and I have NO icons unless I manually add icon.png/jpg's to the specific game folder. I thought it was a HDD thing (maybe) so I threw an SSD into one of the TSOP flashed boxes, but it still takes a while to populate the games list, and still no icons. Obviously there are icons assigned to the games/within the game folder somewhere else, and only the softmods find them.... (Same amount and exact same games on all my xboxes, regardless of the type of mod. Somewhere around 200 games. I thought that a small game list would change things, i.e. faster population of the list, but it doesnt seem to matter that much (maybe only 20% faster)) And thanks again for the input!

As the name suggests, I have some odd things happening, and I'm not sure how many are to be expected, and which ones are par for my rocky modding adventures. After softmodding a recent purchased box with SID, splinter cell exploit (successfully done 12 or more times so far), here's some weird stuff: Can not access original MS dash to change the time zone. I explain this more below. I followed @KaosEngineeradvice in a past post, and picked up the "stock" C and E drives. I copied the xboxdash.xbe over, naming it something else as to not overwrite the current one. Once in file explorer on console, I entered this renamed xbe dash. It did indeed take me to the MS dash, however, it's altered something else to only allows MS dash. After powering down and on several times, I can only get the MS dash, it loads as if's it's not softmodded. While in this mode, trying to re-softmod just get's me a frozen or black screen or reboots itself, and never loads. The ring always resets to solid orange, no matter what I set it to. I just want default, I then change it within Unleashx as I have before (12+ other mods successfully), I then save, and the color changes to green. After turning off/on it's orange again. I've input my own config.xml which I know has my desired settings, but the problem is the same. The clock resets occasionally when power is removed: maybe I'm wrong in thinking that the clock retains itself after short periods of no AC input. Even after changing settings for Date and Time SNTP on the console, the config.xml sometimes changes but sometimes it does not. I changed the port there to 80, and it registers in the config.xml, but on restart, in the menu it returns to the stock "123" port, but the config.xml says 80. Restarts/"Reboot" always end up with error 7, I must shutdown and then hit the power button. This occurs on several softmods I've done. They all have 80 wire IDE cables with generic SATA-IDE adapters... basically all the parts I have in my 1.6 mods is also what I have in my TSOP mods, the TSOP mods however reboot w/o issue. I've emptied the cache. I've deleted ALL files on C and E using xboxHDM23usb to unlock, and FATXplorer to mount drives. I used the same programs to copy my original C and E, along with several others thereafter because even the originals had the same persistent issues. While I had the originals in, the TDATA and UDATA folders I completely wiped to make sure there wasn't some settings in there that related to stuff. I inserted a know working link and port for SNTP clock stuff, into the config.xml. It worked, but I was behind an hour. This is what spurred all the above attempts at reaching the stupid MS dash: to change the time zone. I couldn't reach the MS dash.... (start reading bullet points from the top again to see this viscous circle), Except now the SNTP doesn't register (it's showing stock settings on the menu, and the time doesn't update), even though it IS in the config.xml, quadruple checked and reentered. Settings say it's enabled and allowing HTTP. Aside from trying to get the clock to sync, ring color, and reboot issues, everything else seems ok: games play, and that's really all i use it for. So it's not a "please help me, I'm begging for help now" type of deal, but I am curious to learn more, and see why some of this occurs. Thanks for the input folks! (Ebay #8)

I'm having a similar issue. Bought a pound adapter just a month or two ago. It worked great, so I bought a second for system link nights, so we could field more TV's (composite TVs are hard to find nowadays in the sense that any given friend that can bring a TV will more likely have an HDMI tv rather then one with composite). Both seemed to work fine. I used them for one night of system link, then several more times to FTP, personal play, and whatnot. Our next system link night was a different story. The picture would cut out, much like @HepaUnfilter's, however my sound would drop out too. It was dropping out during boot and the dash, not just in games. Halo2 and other fast shooters were unbearable with such a problem. Needless to say, we tried both Pound units followed by 3 other xboxes, but same problem. I ran through the settings, enabling and disabling all output qualities and combinations: 480, 720, 1080, etc. I even tried PAL with my US tv's, I tried every video setting within the dashboard (that I know of). The same boxes all work great, and look better then the pound unit's HDMI when I use composite cables. I can't replicate the first week I bought these, when the dash even looked crisper. Now the composites to the pound look like HDMI to V/UHF transmissions.... I can't believe that it's a TV issue, as it worked great for a short period on the same TVs it now looks like @$$ on. All of a sudden my TV's decided they 'don't compute'?? But the same can be said for the Xbox's I tried. I'm starting to think Pound got me for $60, shame on me if these are a gamble item as it seems. You might get a good one, you might not, and based on pound's response, you might have a TV it works with or you might not. I could have spent that $60 on 2 decent old TV's or one larger one that has composites at this point. Is Marseille mClassic something I should even consider when you take into account none of my TV's are 4K? One's a cheap walmart Roku Tv, the other is an older Asus monitor (VGA, DVI, & HDMI inputs). Winbond TSOP, IND bios, UnleashX dash, also had same issues with plain softmoded boxes,

Thanks for that tid bit. For some folks, like myself, you'll want to edit your config.xml file, since adding letters throught the console isn't possible by way of settings, and tougher through text editor: i found it easiest to FTP to computer and edit with a keyboard... For North Americans, below should work for you: <SNTP Synchronize="Yes" Port="80">0.north-america.pool.ntp.org</SNTP> If you venture back to settings to see what the "SNTP Server" says now, since manually putting in letters, it says "time-a.nist.gov" , is my xbox being spied upon by some government server??

Roger, that's what I had thought, but I'm glad you were able to confirm! thewheelman282's video loosely covered it as far as tutorials that I actually followed: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GjgIuvQWrgM He's mainly focused on Winbond reflash, but covers the others too. I found his description of the Sharp flash adequate, simple, and easiest for me to try. Same solder points as any other Sharp reflash guide, and only requires the Hexen 2018 disc; TSOP "SHARP ONLY" option that uses Gentoox (within the CD). With the exception of the extra jumper on bottom side, and matter of touching the topside wires, it was as easy as any other reflash I've done (Hynix, and a few ST TSOP console based reflashes under my belt with Hexen 2018 at this point). The only difference besides those I mentioned, is that with Hexen 2018 I only have one bios option, EvoX I guess (that's what shows in the top left of flubber anim). Thanks again for the help oh wise one

Is it required to remove the jumper on the bottom of mobo once flashed, or can it stay there? Same question regarding the wires used to "jump" the connection (on top side of mobo) once the box is on; can they stay jumped indefinitely? Just wondering if there's a long term issue with leaving them there, as it's still connected on mine and seems to function fine. I found the process laid out here to seem very involved, but maybe the HEXEN 2018 I used came out after this was created. I just did the bottom of the board jumper and solder bridge, added wires to the top side (same as tutorial), but instead of all this other stuff, I just used the Hexen 2018 disc which has options and utilities for Sharp TSOP flash. Just clicked my way through (after a first failed attempt because I didn't connect the topside wires together once the box was on. The 2nd try was a breeze!).

It doesn't seem to be the port itself in my case. I changed it out with one from another parts xbox and nothing changed. Still no lights and no connections starting. I also found that in the back of the port is a small circuit board with smd caps and inductors, explaining why when I probed the internal tabs and the solder points, I got confused. There must be a bad component farther upstream. As time permits, I'll further tinkering with it.

I agree, I don't think this is a software issue. For all i know it could be a bad cap, or other component in the 'ethernet' circuit. What I'm curious about is what's inside that port, as I don't have continuity from the pins to the solder points, which makes me think there's resistors or something in it. And I hear you about practicing, undoubtedly good advice. I finally bought a solder sucker recently and have been practicing, I hope it does the trick of making this an easier chore. I'll let ya know what I find.

I was thinking about that the other day when we talked about thermal vision. So the PSU is turning off, overload or whatever, so the component wont get hot. I assume you're talking about using a bench power supply or something that will not 'turn off on safety'?

I'll jump through more detail shortly. But I pulled my other 1.6 board out, and yes, those points at 6 & 15 LPC pins do 'cap out'. Whereas the bad board does not, it continually is grounded, i.e. bypassing a cap to charge up. Does anyone know what capacitors those 2 points go to? I'll see if I can film it again. But right quick I'm gonna take that PNP transistor back out, and see if anything changes. -Removing the transistor didn't change my grounding issue at 6 & 15. BTW, at 6 I have 4.5ohms, and at 15 I have 37ohms. For comparison, I have 4.5ohms between any given screw hole ground pad, so it's safe to say at least #5pin is fully grounded. I removed the (5) 3300uF 6.3v caps in front of the CPU just to make sure i wasn't dealing with a faulty one when I replaced them. But no change in results, with everything previously grounded remaining grounded. At this point, I lack enough knowledge and equipment to smartly proceed. But in the back of my head I'm thinking that I need to begin to remove components until the grounding in inappropriate locations ceases. Or maybe if anyone is interested in taking this board for further diagnosis, tinkering, and curiosity, PM me....

Thank you! I agree, as I have pin 6 & 15 (5v & 3.3v) of the LPC showing continuity to ground. I'm familiar with the process but from Louis Rossmann. Unfortunately, I do not have a thermal cam.... They seem a little pricey for fixing for a $25 ebay purchase (I'm sure I could use it for something else too), but I'm not thinking of buying one yet. I'll see if any of my professional counterparts have one to loan, but I'm not holding my breath. I'll try to use my other 1.6 and see if I can probe around for differences to narrow it down, but that's a crap shoot. I wish I knew, maybe with a schematic, what the 5 and 3.3v traces feed to, etc. and track things down that way...

PSU is good, voltage is reading the same on both PSU's (not sure if I showed the second, but it is the same as the first) https://youtu.be/oX9MhvWFRIs I'll see about setting a tripod so I can go through a smoother process in the future, with my video making. I'll gladly film anything or suggestions that will help you to help me. I just went through some random checks since i didn't have a good script, i can go back and clean up the tests if needed. I also messed up filming by vertically.... I'll fix that too. I know I miss identify various cables, ports, etc., but I tried to film the correct ones, so go by the video, not my narration in those cases. I sped up the playback speed, but I found I needed to speed it up in youtube as well~maybe i have a hard time watching myself so I try to make it go by quick lol

I think one of the main differences between the other topic and this one is that I know what caused it: switching a 1.6 board into a 1.1 case, allowing the ground lug to short something.....

After re-reading: My checklist looks like this: 1. Check red, yellow and orange (12v and 5v) at PSU; plugged in and unplugged. ATX unplugged from mobo: Red is 100mv, Yellow is 9mv, Orange is 4v at the unplugged ATX connector. All are 0v when plugged into mobo, with and without power/eject switches connected. 2.Check pin #4 on LPC; power/eject switch plugged in, unplugged, and button pushed. 0v for all conditions listed. 3. Unplug power/eject, recheck all the above. No changes. 4.R3G6, R3G4 and Pin2 of power/eject connector, additionally R3G3 and R3G5 to pin4 of said connector for continuity and voltage. 0v to all 8 points near resistors, same for pins 2 & 4 of power/eject switch connector on mobo (that's the bottom left most 2 pins from front of unit). Continuity between pin 2 and right sides of G6 and G4. Continuity with pin 4 and G3 and G5 right side of resistors. 5.Check IC and inductor per @Prehistoricman's suggestions. 0v with and without power/eject switch connected as well as with power button depressed. 6. Double check Q7C2, collector. 0V with power/eject switches connected, disconnected and power button depressed. 7.Check ATX connector's orange and blue, unplugging for min 60sec before checks. Looking for quick spikes per @SS_Dave's suggestions. Quick rise to 300mv max but falls quickly to 0v on Orange. Blue (powOK) goes to 10mv, but falls to 0. I also checked the PowOn (white) and have 19mv steady.

Thanks! I can't find my source atm, but it's been ingrained for me to use static for the FTP process, and/or to use a static IP that doesn't conflict with any other IP's if I were on a home network. But there's a tutorial somewhere, written or video, that taught me to use static, and thus far has never let me down. In fact every box I work on has either 192.168.0.2 or 192.168.0.3 as the static IP, and weird thing is, they all system link together without ever needing to change those network settings. If I had to guess, once in a game, the default.xbe file turns it to DHCP and assigns IP's from the host box. I thought the first time I system linked some of my modded boxes, I would have to change them all to DHCP, but I have never needed to, weird... Not sure If i mentioned it already, but I've ensured the DNS, gateway and masks are all set to the same thing I use successfully on other boxes: Masks:255.255.255.0, gateway 192.168.0.100* and DNS 's set to 0.0.0.0 (Which should be suitable for basic system link play with no internet needed) Just to confirm, DHCP is dynamic and allows for the IP to change based on other connected devices so there's never an IP address conflict with 2 or more devices with the same IP. That's a basic generalization right? As far as the ethernet port issue, what's next in the circuit that I should check? I assume there's no other settings or software stuff I can try or change around that I haven't done already. Could one of the LEDs be burned out and causing issues, or is there info on where the traces from the port's solder points go so I can ohm stuff out? To me, it seems like it has to be a hardware/mechanical issue (but I'm still learning...). *The screen shot shows the gateway as 191.168.0.100, but I've changed that to be 192.168.0.100. Just consider the screen shot to be a little old and that's been changed since taking the pic. I had it there and bumped the scroll last time I manually entered it, but have performed all tests with it as both numbers I just listed. Same thing with users, but that shouldn't affect anything besides how many 'users' can FTP into the machine at a given moment. I also tried the "Autodetect" option as "yes" and "No" with no difference in results. PASV Port and Min/Max ports are identical to my other mods, same with HTTP options...

Thanks, I will give that I try (but I believe I did). The last time I worked on this, it was fragged. Somehow, it's un-fragged itself, I threw it back on the test bench last night and she booted up w/o issue, so maybe I had isopro still soaked under a chip or something last time. I was even able to get the TSOP to work on it. So she is back to life with a dead ethernet port. On ALL of my other builds (getting up into the double digits now), I always set it to Static and assign it 192.168.0.2, 4 users, port 21, and make sure FTP is set to active. I use a x over cable, that I just made a few days ago, and is tested out great with my other boxes. Occasionally, I use a network switch to link my PC to xbox for FTP, but I tend to opt for the x-over cable. Trying the switch didn't change anything, still no IP showing up and not connecting. I never use my home network for connecting to them, it's exclusively an independent network. When set to DHCP I still get nothing and no lights at ethernet port. Under network settings "Link Status":No Link whether I'm static or DCHP.....

Thanks for sharing. I had a read through and I think I'll try @SS_Dave's last comment about pulling out the AC plug for at least a minute and see if I get that quick spike of voltage before it drops out due to his explanation. But there's some difference between @Cytraz's problem and mine... actually I'm not sure. I'm gonna go through all the suggestions there and see how that goes. I was also curious, so i ohm'd out the emitter, it's grounded. Not sure what it should be, but i checked the base and collector and they did not trigger my meter to beep (didn't check actual resistance, just checked for "straight" through continuity).