Front Panel Ring Led Not Working

[Gorrillasnot]

I'm not sure what it's actually called (jewel?) but the LEDs that light up the ring around the eject button on my Xbox v1.0 doesn't work.

I took the Xbox apart and tested the LEDs with my multimeter set on diode mode and the LEDs do light up (for those that might not know diode mode on a digital multi meter will usually provide enough power to light a LED).

I then did a continuity test between the 3 legs on each of the LEDs to the connector pins on the back of the board and found not problems.

I then powered up the board to test for voltage going to either of the LEDs and there is none.,

My guess is that corrosion damage from a bad clock capacitor (now removed) has caused an issue with the power traces going to the LEDs..

Is there a guide anywhere on fixing the trace(s) that provide power to the LEDs? or would it be easier to pick up power from somewhere else like from the leg of a voltage regulator or somewhere else?

 

thanks

[Tomos]

There are traces in your motherboard that have most likely corroded causing the issue. Check out this vid for a better look at what could be done to fix It. And if you haven’t done so already look at removing the clock capacitor if your revision Xbox has one.

Video

[Gorrillasnot]

thanks for the link..good info there.

The clock cap has been removed.

To double check I opened up my v1.1 xbox and plugged in the board with the power/eject buttons and the LEDs work fine, so I'd say it is very likely a problem with corrosion on a trace(s). The problem I'm having is locating the traces that go to the LEDs. I haven't been able to find any pics or videos specific to the LED repair (only videos changing to custom LEDs).

Is there a guide or schematic somewhere that shows what traces power the the normal and error legs of the LEDs?

 

thanks

[Tomos]

30 minutes ago, Gorrillasnot said:

thanks for the link..good info there.

The clock cap has been removed.

To double check I opened up my v1.1 xbox and plugged in the board with the power/eject buttons and the LEDs work fine, so I'd say it is very likely a problem with corrosion on a trace(s). The problem I'm having is locating the traces that go to the LEDs. I haven't been able to find any pics or videos specific to the LED repair (only videos changing to custom LEDs).

Is there a guide or schematic somewhere that shows what traces power the the normal and error legs of the LEDs?

 

thanks

Here is another video

video

 

They both showcase the four thin traces on the edge of the motherboard that are responsible for the power button leds and associated functions though they don't explicitly say that. The points they are soldering jumper wires to will fix your problem. I had your problem and did followed these vids and it fixed my issue. 

[KaosEngineer]

5 hours ago, Gorrillasnot said:

 

thanks for the link..good info there.
 

The clock cap has been removed.

To double check I opened up my v1.1 xbox and plugged in the board with the power/eject buttons and the LEDs work fine, so I'd say it is very likely a problem with corrosion on a trace(s). The problem I'm having is locating the traces that go to the LEDs. I haven't been able to find any pics or videos specific to the LED repair (only videos changing to custom LEDs).

Is there a guide or schematic somewhere that shows what traces power the the normal and error legs of the LEDs?

thanks

I believe the 4 thin traces from outside to inside are:

- Power_Button
- Eject_Button
- Green_LED_Control
- Red_LED_Control

I may have Red and Green reversed. (more tracing of the signals needed).  These LED control signals are raised or lowered to a logic HIGH or LOW by the System Management Controller - PIC processor (v1.0-1.5) or Xyclops chip (v1.6) - and each connects through a resistor (R3V2 and R3V3) to the base of a surface-mount drive transistor (which I believe are PNP MMBT3906LT1Gs at Q2V1 and Q2V2 respectively) located on the bottom of the motherboard near the front panel connector.  The collector of Q2V1 through R3V1 and a resistor on top side which then connects to the front panel connector pin number N and M.  The collector of Q2V2 through R3V4 and another resistor on top of the PCB to the front panel connector pins X and Y. The emitters of both Q2V1 and Q2V2 are tied to 3.3Vdc.

I've not traced out the entire path of these signals as you can tell by the use of N, M, X and Y pin numbers they connect to.  Continuing to trace signals below to fill in some of the pin number connections

Front Panel Connector Pin Usage

- Pin 1 (square pad) - Ground
- Pin 2 (below pin 1) - Power_Button (Momentary Normally Open pushbutton) 
- Pin 3 - Ground
- Pin 4 - Eject_Button (Momentary Normally Open pushbutton)
- Pin 5 - GREEN_Left_LED  to R2G9 to the collector of Q2V1 (???)
- Pin 6 - RED_Left_LED to R2G10 to the collector of Q2V2 (???)
- Pin 7 - RED_Right_LED to R3V4 to the collector of Q2V2
- Pin 8 - GREEN_Right_LED to R3V1 to collector Q2V1
- Pin 9 - No Connection
- Pin 10 - Connector Key - No Pin present

It's getting too late for me to try and trace these connections anymore tonight.

Q2V1 - green drive transistor
Q2V2 - red drive transistor

I really need to get both the top and bottom layer images of the v1.1 motherboard combined into two layers of a single image that you can see the through-hole via connections between the top and bottom layers of the motherboard.

Image cut from diy.sickmods.net's Hi-res scan of an all parts removed v1.1 motherboard (bottom side):

http://web.archive.org/web/20111231000320/http://diy.sickmods.net/Tutorials/Xbox1/Hi-Res_Scans/

This most likely is not going to work but the pins are numbered:  

    9 7 5 3 1
    o o o o o
        o o o o
    1 8 6 4 2
    0

It worked, not what I expected. 

All except for Grammarly messing up the text i quoted from Gorrillasnot.

[Gorrillasnot]

KaosEngineer: Wow that is some detailed info..thanks much!

Between the info you posted and the videos Tomos posted I was able to get the LEDs working.

I am not 100% sure they are working correct as this is my first modchipped Xbox, but they are working.

When I press the power button I get a alternating red and orange blinking then after the iND-BiOS splash screen the light turns solid orange. Does this seem correct?

 

thanks very much Tomos and KaosEngineer:

 

[Tomos]

Glad you got it working!

It’s possible it was a setting the previous user changed in the bios, or it’s a setting that was played with in your dashboard, though if everything is working well I wouldn’t worry too much about it. 

 

Edited August 1, 2019 by Tomos

[KaosEngineer]

Check the settings in the ind-bios.cfg file.  The LED colors can be set to different colors in it.  Also, the replacement dashboard can change the color(s) used when it runs. When running another app, the LED color should again revert to those set by the BIOS/Kernel configuration.

[Gorrillasnot]

I checked the config file and the ring color is set to green. I also flashed the bios to m8 and the ring is orange..it seems that whatever makes green work is not working..anytime something calls for green the ring lights up orange..when doing my trace repair I only did the 2 for the LEDs because my power and eject buttons worked no problem..Should I go back and trace repair the other 2 anyway? Maybe it's possible I reversed the correct solder points when doing my original repair? (I followed the locations in the second video)

Thanks

[Gorrillasnot]

I managed to get the LEDs working properly.1 of the wires I soldered for the trace repair needed touched up.

 

thanks again everyone