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Got a dead XBOX 1.6 for cheap, it was super clean but had been previously opened so I was a little wary of what I'd find inside.  Power supply fuse was missing and the attached pic is the soldering butcher job i found.  I'm not familiar with 1.6 PSUs, and couldn't find any quality pics of one online to see what the layout is supposed to be, so i'm wondering if there is any saving this?  Don't know what continuity (if any) is supposed to exist between the 3 points there.  The bottom round hole is where the fuse is supposed to attach.  Worried that the damage/solder spill shorted or created unwanted continuity but can't tell since I don't know how it was originally.  The brown lines are what appears to be scratches as if someone tried to scratch away solder to keep the points separated?  I dunno.  If it is fixable, was wondering what could have caused the fuse to blow that necessitated the repair attempt, as in are there any usual suspects I should look/test for on the Power supply?  The rest of the Power supply looks fine.  The mobo had some bad caps so i went ahead and replaced the 5 usual ones there but other than that no visible defects on either the mobo or power supply.  Any help or thoughts on power supply layout and downstream test/checks would be greatly appreciated.  Thanks!   

image.thumb.jpeg.1b2528c7f30767ae4b9940c8b7e1517b.jpeg

Edited by arfows
clarity
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Holy shit. On the first pic it's hard to tell where the original bridges were and where they WEREN'T. I would look at the underside of a good PSU online and see where it's linked with solder and where it's NOT. That'll prevent it from working right there... If it's not fried already from misdirected current.

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Thanks for the thoughts thus far.  Its 100-127v 96DP.  I've been looking for a clear pic of a PSU online and think I finally found one but its hard to tell if the three solder points are touching/have continuity.  I have one T4A250V fuse but don't want to blow it (is there such a thing as circuit humor?) on something unless I have reasonable confidence that it'll work.  Thoughts?image.thumb.jpeg.04cb7ed88ea4b83c5c2f2f42619ec106.jpeg

1.6 power supply 96DP.jpg

Edited by arfows
add pic
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That fuse has violently blown and I suspect it's been connected to 220 volt.

There is a part in the black heat shrink that's probably blown The layout of components of the 220 volt version is different but you may find the PCB reference numbers are the same. 

It should have Z1 in the board, It's a Metal Oxide Varistor  that's used for Surge Protection

On a 220-250volt supply it's rated at 275volt AC and above that it blows up and will go short circuit and that blows the fuse,The heat shrink is because they have been known to explode and have sparks escape.

I suspect it will have a part number like TVR 10 241 or TVR 10 221 on the component

 

IMG-4561.jpg

 

 

Cheers

SS Dave


Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.

 

 

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so if I'm understanding you correctly between the fuse and varistor, that should have stopped the voltage spike from getting to other parts of the board.  If i remove the circled item (varistor), test it, and it fails then potentially replace it and the fuse once continuity between the three points has been determined.  If it doesn't fail, then the fuse blowing could be potentially something else on the board.  Does that all sound right?

1.6 power supply 96DP.jpg

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16 minutes ago, arfows said:

so if I'm understanding you correctly between the fuse and varistor, that should have stopped the voltage spike from getting to other parts of the board.  If i remove the circled item (varistor), test it, and it fails then potentially replace it and the fuse once continuity between the three points has been determined.  If it doesn't fail, then the fuse blowing could be potentially something else on the board.  Does that all sound right?

1.6 power supply 96DP.jpg

I wonder how often power goes into things that destroy them and make repairing the initial cause pointless... That would be really frustrating when it comes to electronics repairs: Cascading damage... Not that I'm saying you should stop.

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1 hour ago, arfows said:

so if I'm understanding you correctly between the fuse and varistor, that should have stopped the voltage spike from getting to other parts of the board.  If i remove the circled item (varistor), test it, and it fails then potentially replace it and the fuse once continuity between the three points has been determined.  If it doesn't fail, then the fuse blowing could be potentially something else on the board.  Does that all sound right?

1.6 power supply 96DP.jpg

The varistor should test open circuit if it's good and if it test's dead short then replace it as it's done it's job. Also test the two points it was soldered too and with out the varistor it should not test short circuit but it may give you a reading that slowly increases in resistance.

 

Cheers

SS Dave


Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.

 

 

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Removed and tested the varistor.  Still has continuity and it's solder points on the board do slowly increase in resistance.  As you can see from the image, whatever happened was a pretty intense event so I also removed J18 (turns out it still has continuity and resistance though so appears undamaged?) and the coil.  So in tracking all of that, except for the coil, which I'm not sure how to test, it appears everything else is still functional so far?

burnt psu 1.6 xbox.jpeg

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13 minutes ago, arfows said:

Removed and tested the varistor.  Still has continuity and it's solder points on the board do slowly increase in resistance.  As you can see from the image, whatever happened was a pretty intense event so I also removed J18 (turns out it still has continuity and resistance though so appears undamaged?) and the coil.  So in tracking all of that, except for the coil, which I'm not sure how to test, it appears everything else is still functional so far?

burnt psu 1.6 xbox.jpeg

I have seen worse damage.

If the Varistor ( Z1 )is testing a short then it's faulty.

The resistance reading increasing when you test where Z1 (Varistor) was fitted is normal as you meter is slowly charging the main filter cap.

The varistor is basically across the mains input just after the fuse and if it sees a voltage above it's nominated rating (for a PSU from Australia the varistor is 275 volt AC)  it will self destruct and go short circuit and that will cause the fuse to blow. 

When I am testing devices that have had damage like that PSU or devices I am unsure of I power the device though a 100watt incandescent light globe (google Dim Bulb Tester) and if the globe stays fully lit then there is still a problem.

 

Cheers

SS Dave


Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.

 

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28 minutes ago, Bowlsnapper said:

Wow, what was over the burn marks? What got hit?

220 volt in a power supply made for 110 volt and 90% of that black will clean off with some Isopropyl.

 

Cheers

SS Dave


Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.

 

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2 hours ago, SS_Dave said:

220 volt in a power supply made for 110 volt and 90% of that black will clean off with some Isopropyl.

 

Cheers

SS Dave


Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.

 

Wow... I wonder how far it got and what it fried? Was it just the fuse and got stopped there?... Theoretically I suppose?

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4 hours ago, Bowlsnapper said:

Wow... I wonder how far it got and what it fried? Was it just the fuse and got stopped there?... Theoretically I suppose?

I think the only real damage is the Varistor and the Fuse

The giveaway was the fuse that taped to the heat sink and then the black around the Varistor 

IMG-4561.jpg

 

If it was me I would replace the fuse then plug it in with a 100 watt incandescent lamp (Dim Bulb Tester) in series with the active and see if it works and then replace the Varistor.

Powering on a 1.6 supply without the mother board is a little bit harder but it's still doable 

See my post here.

https://www.ogxbox.com/forums/index.php?/topic/11497-xbox-16-doesnt-turn-on-at-all-it-seems-dead/#comment-56162

 

 

Cheers

SS Dave


Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.

 

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14 minutes ago, SS_Dave said:

I think the only real damage is the Varistor and the Fuse

The giveaway was the fuse that taped to the heat sink and then the black around the Varistor 

IMG-4561.jpg

 

If it was me I would replace the fuse then plug it in with a 100 watt incandescent lamp (Dim Bulb Tester) in series with the active and see if it works and then replace the Varistor.

Powering on a 1.6 supply without the mother board is a little bit harder but it's still doable 

See my post here.

https://www.ogxbox.com/forums/index.php?/topic/11497-xbox-16-doesnt-turn-on-at-all-it-seems-dead/#comment-56162

 

 

Cheers

SS Dave


Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.

 

I would never even think of it being possible to power on a PSU without a motherboard. I guess the mobo signals are simplistic enough and easy enough to reproduce? Black nipple is a varistor? It looks like a gigantic ceramic capacitor with insulation or something. Lol

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1 hour ago, Bowlsnapper said:

I would never even think of it being possible to power on a PSU without a motherboard. I guess the mobo signals are simplistic enough and easy enough to reproduce? Black nipple is a varistor? It looks like a gigantic ceramic capacitor with insulation or something. Lol

Yes the varistor is a bit like a ceramic capacitor in appearance.

 

Cheers

SS Dave


Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.

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Looks like it might be something more or that soldering mess on the underside of the board might be the issue.  DBT lights up.  On the plus side, I learned about and got to build a DBT!  Pretty cool and handy device

Edited by arfows
clarity
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58 minutes ago, arfows said:

Looks like it might be something more or that soldering mess on the underside of the board might be the issue.  DBT lights up.  On the plus side, I learned about and got to build a DBT!  Pretty cool and handy device

Is the globe full brightness or 1/2 brightness ?

And is that with just the PSU or the hole Xbox?

 

Cheers

SS Dave


Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.

 

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