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Found 19 results

  1. Selling a tsop'd v1.2 mobo w/ ind-5004 bios & 128mb RAM upgrade... $80
  2. og xbox 1.4ghz and ram upgrade anyone have one for sale let me know will pay high cash for one ok thanks
  3. og xbox 1.4ghz and ram upgrade anyone have one for sale let me know will pay good money for one
  4. og xbox 1.4ghz and ram upgrade anyone have one for sale will pay asap let me know ok thanks
  5. 128MB RAM upgraded Xbox 1.1 motherboard X-Changer 2.5 modchip Thermal paste replaced and clock cap removed Sticker 110€ + shipping
  6. I have to start by saying thank you in particular to Floydzabarber as I must have watched his video about the RAM upgrade a dozen times. Well, I ordered some chips a couple weeks ago and I gave the RAM upgrade a try tonight. I performed the "surgery" on a rev 1.1 board and all the pads were nicely tinned, which was a bonus. Here are my tools of the trade which made this upgrade a breeze: Hakko FX888D-29BY Digital Soldering Station T18-D16 Soldering Iron Tip (bevelled, which originally came with my Hakko soldering station) Kester 24-6337-8806 245 No-Clean Flux Core Solder, 63/37 .015" MG Chemicals 836-P No Clean Flux Pen JARLINK 30X 60X Illuminated Jewelers Eye Loupe Magnifier 99.9% Isopropyl Alcohol Liquid Cleaner (used with cotton swabs) To start, I highly recommend that you stay FAR, FAR away from a hot air / rework station for this project unless you have wicked, magical skills with soldering. Even then, I'm sure it would be way slower to use a hot air / rework station as compared to a proper soldering iron. Prior to jumping into the soldering phase, I installed a modchip with the 256kb crcwell.bin BIOS. That is the XBlast OS which will boot and test the RAM. You definitely need to test that your Xbox is booting into this BIOS before commencing the RAM upgrade. The tip of the soldering iron, for me, is a multipurpose tool. The tip that I identified above was the perfect size (for me) and it had a small bevel that I used as a gauge for how much solder to apply. I would apply a little less solder for the short sides as compared to the longer sides and that same tip was the perfect tool for removing solder from bridged pins. (Do yourself a favour and at least go get a small bevelled tip for whatever soldering iron you are using.) To prep the board, I cleaned the tinned pads with a cotton swab and the Isopropyl Alcohol. (I think if I were doing the mod on a board that didn't have tinned pads, I'd probably tin them first.) I then used a flux pen to wet the pads liberally. I placed the chip in the proper orientation (as the chip next to it) and then I verified that it was nicely aligned by using my eye loupe while keeping it from moving with a soft press of my finger. (Okay, I'm getting old and my sight isn't what it used to be. LOL!) As I held the chip in place, my other hand prepped the soldering iron (set on 750 deg f) to ensure that it looked nice and shiny. (If your tip isn't prepared correctly you will have a problem.) I then put a tiny amount of solder on the tip of the soldering iron and dragged it fairly quickly across the pins on one side. (It is important to note that I only ever added solder to the tip once per side.) I cleaned the soldering iron tip and repeated the process for the other sides. (As soon as you touch a pad with the tip of the iron you can see the solder shoot up the pin to the top. Never hold the iron tip on a pad, not even for a second. There is no reason to ever do that with this RAM upgrade.) After I did all four sides, I noticed that a couple of pins were bridged. (This totally happens and you need to handle the removal of extra solder correctly.) First, I added lots of flux to the bridged area and then I cleaned my soldering iron tip so that no solder was on it. (I used a wet but dry sponge.) Instead of dragging the tip across all pins, I rotated the iron by 90 degrees so that I could "pet" or stroke the chip's legs/feet. It only took a split second for the solder to quickly wick onto the surface area of the tip of my iron. After each attempt, I cleaned the tip and if I noticed that there wasn't enough flux on the pins, I added it before the next attempt. The solder wicks away typically in under three attempts at cleaning the bridge because I don't use much solder at all in this process. When I was happy with what I could see with my naked eyes, it was time to look at the work with the loupe (lighted magnifying glass). I'll start by saying that a jewelers loupe is a very inexpensive item that will easily fit in your toolbox and I believe it to be an essential tool for soldering chips (unless you have a microscope). A lighted jeweler's loupe (for me) is much better than a standard magnifying glass. With the loupe, I checked from the top to see nice separation between the pins and then I changed the viewing angle and looked between each pin on the chip and the pad on the board. Once I completed the verification with the loupe, I cleaned the soldered areas with the Isopropyl Alcohol, hooked up the board to the case and booted it up. It immediately went into the XBlast OS and I saw the 128MB at the top of the screen. From there, I then went into the tools and ran the RAM test and all was good. Anyway, I thought I'd share my experience in an attempt to inspire some of you to try this out. If any of the more experienced members would like to provide me with some good criticism, I welcome that too. Cheers!
  7. I've near zero experience with hard mods on the og xbox. I'm pretty savvy with soldering so I'm considering doing a ram upgrade. I've got an aladdin XT clone in the mail. My question is this: Which bios will I need to flash on a 1.6 xbox for it to recognize 1tb of storage and the 128mb of ram?
  8. Selling on ebay to make it fair on UK buyers. I really want this to go to a good home, I am only selling as I am moving house and need the money towards fees otherwise I would have kept it eternally haha. Thanks for taking the time to look. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Very-Rare-Team-Xecuter-Original-Xbox-With-TX-Faceplate-128mb-Ram-X3ce-Xapt3r/113716250636
  9. Got 2 Ram upgraded motherboards for sale. Both have the clock caps removed, have no signs of trace rot and have the IND5004 flashed to the TSOP. Both have the Ram cleanly upgraded to 128mb and are a drop in replacement for your current motherboard. International shipping does cost 20€ including tracking and insurace. Price: 70€ each (around 80US$) +shipping costs. Also attached a shot of the solder work so you see what you get.
  10. Selling a tsop'd v1.2 mobo w/ ind-5004 bios & 128mb RAM upgrade... $80
  11. PROBLEM SOLVED check the thread for the answer. Hello, an unusual problem shown up. After ram installation, Xbox started to frag, decided to resolder every leg. After this, system does nothing when the Power Button is clicked. Tried with another power supply, same result. Removed the ram chips, cleared the joints, same thing. It only tries to boot, the led on the Ethernet port blinks once - then nothing else. - Xbox Motherboard 1.2 - TSOP-ed with ind bios 5003 - Ethernet port led blinks once (the front panel leds are not active at all) - RAM chips look to be counterfeit because they have SAMAUNG on it, not SAMSUNG (but after their removal, the problem is still here) Can somebody point on where I should dig, please?
  12. Doing 128mb RAM upgrades for $50,, pm me if interested
  13. Stu2b2

    Ram Upgrade

    I’m thinking of upgrading the ram not sure is it worth it
  14. Hi guys, I have an odd issue with my ram upgrade. At the moment I have 3 of the 4 chips soldered to the board and it boots "properly". When I initially had the 4th chip installed, the system would still boot but it would not give me the full 128mb only 64. I figured it was re-flow. So far I have gone through many rounds of remove, reflow and wick and such and it has brought me to the current point I am at now with 3/4 chips installed. I thought I could use Xblast (through .xbe launcher) to try and see if the chips are at least working but whenever I try the RAM test it always freezes up the system. I was using the newest version of Xblast OS. I was wondering if anyone had any solutions on this situation? Ive spent way too many hours trying to figure this out so far. All RAM chips are of same model number as well. Thanks
  15. Hi guys, I have an odd issue with my ram upgrade. At the moment I have 3 of the 4 chips soldered to the board and it boots "properly". When I initially had the 4th chip installed, the system would still boot but it would not give me the full 128mb only 64. I figured it was re-flow. So far I have gone through many rounds of remove, reflow and wick and such and it has brought me to the current point I am at now with 3/4 chips installed. I thought I could use Xblast (through .xbe launcher) to try and see if the chips are at least working but whenever I try the RAM test it always freezes up the system. I was using the newest version of Xblast OS. I was wondering if anyone had any solutions on this situation? Ive spent way too many hours trying to figure this out so far. All RAM chips are of same model number as well. Thanks
  16. the method using a pin and a soldering iron that floats around the net is unsustainable. i recently acquired a couple dead boards and one of them has samsung ram which my 1.2 had stolen from the bottom when i upgraded my 1.1 and ran out of new parts. so i said screw it im gonna put the 2 i need on this board. this is a way better homebrew than the pin. i made a small 'puller' out of a very thin piece of wire (the type thats inside of cheap cheap twist ties you get for the garbage bags. twisting the loop over top adds a subtle tension to keep hold of the chip. lots of flux applied to pins (not applied in this pic) each end is bent over and tucked under the row of pins, use a small enough gauge wire you arent jamming it in. heated slowly on low setting with a cheap heat gun (the econo brand heat gun) then one good blast at high once warmed up and it pulled right off. lots of movement of the gun and very delicate pressure when pulling. beautiful. they laid down on the other board with ease tack the corner on X & Yaxis, then line up pins and do another x & y. then just apply slight pressure with finger on chip and hit each pin with the iron. the unit fired right up. this solution originally came from removing a botched install.... removing i didnt want to accidentally scrape one of those small caps/resistors off. and i had already made a decision that hot air had to be the solution to removing these. handling the chip becomes most important once the solder goes molten. 20180318_183738.mp4
  17. Friday night i got home excited to try a ram upgrade have a perfect V1.1 in a crystal case, what could be better soft modded, unlocked the TSOP, flashed x25035 using hexen, swapped in a big sata drive/80wire ide/ installed XBMC as dash, smooth sailing... So i had purchased a set of chips from utsource about 4 weeks ago and when they got here i only had 3 chips... checked my invoice and realized i had ordered and paid for 3 chips... bummer So in haste i ordered 5 more from an ebay seller in the states... i had ordered K4D623238F-QC50 Got all 5 I installed 4 of them after the TSOP (in the same night) not realizing this is a 512K chip and the XBOX needs the 1M all the way up to the 4th i was getting orange and red flashing.... good sign, diligent with continuity tester on the 4th it was clear something was wrong... i went to bed frustrated with a few unknowns. Got back at it and installed the 3 utsource chips in place of the 512's, when i had all 3 in with 4 still being installed i realized at flashing orange and red the eject button would boot the X2 bios??? what sorcery is this. The ram wasnt being recognized but it prompted me to consider XBLAST (which i was vaguely aware of) seeing as i had access to HDD/FTP from dash https://bitbucket.org/psyko_chewbacca/lpcmod_os/downloads/ Found the xbe version, booted from XBMC and actually had a success on 1/4.. now im feeling ok. Re-flow the other 3 (XBLAST has a diagram entailing which chip is which so you can refrence their test screen) now i've got 3/4 testing positive. very excitedly I open up another xbox i use and harvest a chip (hell i can replace it another time!!!!) Well, the removal goes spotty at best and by the time ive lined up the pins and got the soldering done one of the corner pins breaks off while im trying to make a small adjustment.... angry i take it off the board.... lift a pad.... now you've ruined a wonderful console, and have 3 chips to remove and not enough supplies to outfit anything with an upgrade. remove yourself from the situation, breathe deep and take a nap. luck is funny. http://pdf.datasheetcatalog.com/datasheet/SamsungElectronic/mXxqxqv.pdf After examining the pinout of the chip i realized the center pins of the right and left side are named N.C..... what could that be? is it possible thats pin for the pad that lifted?? Ii find another datasheet that explains the definition of N.C as "reserved for future revisions" otherwise: This pin doesnt get used right now... WHAT!!?!?!?! Sure enough the lifted pad is N.C on the pinout diagram Just yonder a warm optimism drags me back into the basement. Now focused, rested, and caffeinated i go to work at harvesting another IC from the 1.4. a fantastic removal, straight pins and all. Get the chip down with no hiccups and wearily stare at that grey pin on a brown backdrop (lifted pad) all back together XBLAST reports 4 success' victory is sweet XBMC sees it, Virtual Cop 3 boots.... YES!!! Despite so many stupid mistakes it worked! But its not all roses i wasted 30 bucks on 5 ic's i will never use and also the fact my 1.4 is now in limbo. so i can either replace the 2 and call it a day..... or...... order 6 and spend another 12 hours hunched over a 17 year old game console..... i think i'll take the latter.
  18. Curious question in a furious rush i harvested 2 ram chips off a working board, now id like to re-install these and get it working again because as far as i can remember this unit worked just fine prior. the replacement ram came from a friend with a broken console. one chip had 2 twisted pins which laid down pretty nice with gentle persuasion. now that they are installed (2 on the bottom) the unit will not power on? power button does nothing, any ideas how ram affects the power process? could this be a separate issue? very interested to hear thoughts/theories. the extent of my troubleshooting was testing a working consoles psu on this board which yielded identical results (power button does nothing, i can 'hear' the psu working there is a subtle discharge sound). i have 1 more chip to try in place of the twisted one. there are no bridges on the install and contact is made on each pad as far as continuity is concerned.
  19. Hey all! I recently completed and posted on a few Facebook groups a little project which I recently finished and one of your members recommend me come here and share it with you all, so here goes! The whole thing started when I decided I wanted to build a PC into an Xbox. I've done a little bit of modding here and there in the past, but nothing to this extent. Sadly I didn't make a build log as I went along, but here is the finished product for you to enjoy! The spec: Intel i5-7400 Processor running at 3.0 GHz Zotac 4GB 1050 Ti Graphics Card 16GB DDR4 Crucial Memory running at 2400 MHz MSi H110i PRO LGA1151 Mini-ITX Motherboard 250GB Samsung NVMe SSD 2TB Seagate Barracude Storage HDD 300w Game Max Power Supply It's got a custom water cooled loop in there too, and boots to Windows desktop in 13 seconds! Enjoy! shoe.

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Board startup date: April 23, 2017 12:45:48
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