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For some reason while trying to flash a new bios to my TSOP I got a message saying 'programming failed', and now I get no picture when my console boots and the LED flashed red and green. So i'm thinking it's bricked. I was wondering if I installed a mod chip would this then save the console? I've seen an 'Aladdin XT+4032 X2 Plus' on eBay and the installation seems very simple for these chips.

Hello Everyone. I am kind of new/kind of old to the scene, as I have an rev 1.6 Xbox that I bought brand new in 2006, softmodded and installed a 160gb harddrive, which is(was?) limited to 137Gb useable space, copied all my bought games to it, threw in a couple emulators, and then just used it on and off and basically forgot anything involved in the process to the mists of time. Recently it wouldn't power on, so I replaced the common 5 3300uF caps that were leaking, and it was good to go. My brain noted that the 16 year old IDE hard drive will not run forever, and I should look at upgrading to a SATA configuration. Due to the time gap, very old versions of software, I have now read so much conflicting information at this point am not sure what to do in 2021. I no longer have the original drive. I don't appear to have an image of either drive (8gb or 160gb) in any of my backups either. My fuzzy memory says this is bad because of linked keys. I do not have a PATA usb adaptor, or computer with PATA. I have an Xbox to USB adaptor, but I don't think I have a compatible thumb drive. Based on my research I've ordered the "correct" Startech SATA/PATA adaptor. The existing drive already has an 80 pin cable. I do have ftp access without issue. I'm attaching a 2 screenshots of my drive/system info, my questions are: Is that key in the screenshot all I need? If not what is the best way to go about backing up the drive/board key "Just in case" things go bad. And is Chimp (https://www.reddit.com/r/originalxbox/wiki/chimp/) still the best way to clone it to a new drive in 2021? I undoubtedly will have more questions, but backing up is my first priority, and once I have a confirmed backup I will be much more comfortable playing with it, and hopefully updating the various software I have loaded. Any "critical hints" or gotchas would be appreciated as well. v

hey, im a bit of a newb when it comes to og xbox, but i just bought one for the first time off of ebay. it works great, but i know its a big deal to remove the clock capacitor. it looks like it may have been opened before but i dont have a torx screwdriver to open it up to check. im going to my uncle's on saturday so he can open it up and see. is it fine if i play it with the possibility the clock cap hasnt been removed? it works great in every other regard.

I have this 1.4 Xbox that I've been tinkering with trying to being it back to life. I have plenty of other MBs so this has been more of a journey project more than the need to have a working board. The board initially would flash red. I took out the eeprom and it wouldn't read stable. I replaced it with a new chip and flashed it with a few different images finally settling on an image of another 1.4 that works. It now boots to a black image with a solid green light no fraging. So I ripped out the tsop and it also is awful, it has a few hundred unstable bits. So I decided to just install a modchip. Installed an openxenium and was able to boot into xeniumos! There was horrible diagonal lines that looked like interferance that would progressively get worse until there was major graphical glitches. I saw power issues could cause problems so I replaced the power caps below the CPU. Problem persisted. Replaced the powersupply, everything looks clean. Flashed M8+ onto the Modchip go to load it and the screen goes blank. Any ideas for things to try would be appreciated. Thank you

I lost my N64 freak 1.4ghz Xbox in a fire last year when our house burned down and am sad to see he no longer makes them. If anyone has one I'm willing to buy. I'm in the USA. Name your price. Thanks, Jake

Hi, I need some help please. After the death of my beloved xbox v1.0 I decided to get a new one, I get a 2002 with motherboard V1.1 and Aladdin XT installed. The console starts and switches off 2 times and then boots normally. By holding down the power button for a few seconds I was sometimes able to start the change. I thought it was faulty and ordered another brand new Aladdin xt plus 2(fake). i notice my old owner had soldered the pins out the mod directly on aladdin main and wired the wires H0 L1 BT D0. it seemed strange to me that it did not use the socket available on the small aladdin board. I then cleaned everything, removed the welds and tried the main and to my amazement it does not start and always cycles on off and then remains on without an image and the LED flashes red. I mount the chip and send D0 to ground and the console magically starts at the first shot without starting the mod, although I set the BT to ground to always leave the mod ON. why does he behave like this? I checked the pins and everything seems okay, the soldering too. I guess it's a motherboard problem right? can you help me please, I really want to make it work again. grazie mille Pietro

Hello there everyone! I posted a little bit around but then I considered the many peculiarities of my situation and decided that it was better to open a new topic. I am going a little bit out of my mind trying to softmod an Xbox 1.00 fw 4034 NTSC-J. I am aiming to play some titles in english and therefore softmod is a must. I am not totally inept with soldering iron but if I wold like not messing around with the motherboard. I checked my options and it seemed that Hotswap was the best alternative. I found a couple of posts on reddit (here from Rocky5 and here). The second post is interesting because essentially presents my same case and the OP resolved with a previous copy of XboxHDM 2.3 Beta 2 and ndure 3.0 but then in the comments another poster said you can just use the XBHDM utility of Rocky5softmod. This was a long route. I thought to start from the easiest way to edit files in the HDD through hotswap: Xplorer360. I planned to use Xplorer360 with the error 12 unplugging the dvd drive but it gave instead the error 11. The error 11 was just the start, I tried other ways to unlock the drive but it still does not show up in Xplorer360 (despite it showed up in DISKUTIL many times). Used other hotswap strategy. In-game technique seemed the one that produced the best effects since it came up in the DISKUTIL but still never on Xplorer360. I dropped Xplorer360. I upgraded to XboxHDM 2.3 Beta 4 I planned to do with the Rocky5 Build 1.1.8v/Installer Variants/XBHDM. I was able to connect it to the PC via ide-usb cable, check in DISKUTIL and check with XboxHDM 2.3 Beta 4 that the hd is "ATA secutity is: enabled, pw Level Max, not locked, not frozen [sec5]." I would like to make a backup and I want to move the rocky5 files now. I moved the XBHDM build from the "installer variants" folder in Build 1.1.8. load the XBHDM for the drive. When I load the xbrowser in XboxHDM and press f2 for menu it gives me a "Cannot open file /usr/local/share/mc/mc.menu". f4 (edit) blanks the page with "C" [Read only] line 1 of 1 --100%-- which factually makes the XBHDM crash (no way to go back). IN A NUTSHELL: from here I am lost... what should I do? I run everything as administrator but no luck. Should I first unlock the drive and disable ? no Disable? i am really confused... I dont have the eeprom reader so i cannot extract it in that way. I order solder ink pen but it will take time but worst scenario I think I might TSOP, but does that too need a softmod first? Anyway I think that I must be close... any suggestions on how to proceed ? Sorry for the long post and thank you for reading!

I think my XBOX overheated last night while playing Max Payne. The xbox crashed and a flashing orange light was visible. The power button did not respond at all. What happened is that I just installed a newly printed case on the startech ide adapter. After putting it together I decided to startup a game. First thing I noticed was how silent it was and I was actually wondering if the fan was even turning. 5 min later it crashed. After letting it cool for some time it doesn’t want to boot anymore. I get red/green light flashing after a few seconds. I connected the SSD to a pc and I can access it without issues wit fatxplorer, was affraid that me pulling the cable out might have damaged the SSD. It doesn’t want to boot to ogxbox installer dvd with SSD connected, but everything works fine with original HDD. The ogxbox installer gets into some bootloop, teal logo is visible and disk makes noise every few seconds. Different HDD gives same problem, it was not formatted to fatx because it contained valuable data. So basically there can be a few things wrong: ide adapter bad, ide cable all of the sudden needs to be a 80 pin or somehow the boot partition got corrupted. I should be able to test startech ide connector by connecting it to my pc via sata with original HDD (ide) right? so basically the reverse from what I do on the xbox. What is the best way to rule out the SSD? I prefer not to format it again, as I spend hours and hours copying/unpacking all the games. The unpacking part I can skip btw now. Is there anything else I need to check?

You've all be great in helping me get my two Xbox's to be awesome, I've got them both to a point I consider them perfect, my last little gripe is the time, they boot up thinking it's 2007. I've noticed the Xbox has a time server function where it can automatically connect to internet time servers and update the time with UnleashX and also XBMC, however every time server address I put in there doesn't work, even though the time servers do work on windows. Is there a time server anyone has found that actually works on the Xbox? I remember years ago I used to use this function and it used to work fine. If I can sort this out it's the last peace of the puzzle to Xbox perfection for me.

Hi All, I've seen others post similar things and get some great support and feedback so I'm hoping for the best and that you might be able to help me also? I picked an Xbox up on Facebook Marketplace for £10 untested, plugged it in and it booted to an error - the DVD didn't make any sound. Switched out the DVD Drive and it booted to the dashboard first time. Today I went to fit a mod chip - OpenXenium and now it won't boot at all. I'm quite an experienced solderer so I 'hope' I haven't damaged/done it wrong, but I'm at a loss what's going on. The clock capacitor had clearly been leaking, I desoldered and removed this and attempted to clean up with IPA. I'll post pictures of my board below and see what you all think. Thanks, David here's the album https://www.flickr.com/photos/151031101@N07/albums/72157720121443403

I've got 2 XBOX's and one works perfectly and that's the one with a Xenium Ice chip in it, the other has an Aladdin chip I think, I can't recall as it was done about 15 years ago The chip requires that you hold down the power button for about 2 seconds to turn the mod chip on and boot the Xbox to UnleashX. If you don't hold the power button down the screen just goes to no signal and the Xbox doesn't work, it powers on obviously just no signal. If you do hold it down and enable the mod chip the Xbox boots up fine and works well, the only problem is if you do the two trigger / 2 button reboot trick with the M8 bios it does start the reboot process but just goes to a no signal screen. If I go to the option in UnleashX to boot to MSDash it just goes to this same black no signal screen. I tried reinstalling MSDash in case it was a problem with the dashboard, but that made no difference. Does anyone know a solution to this? it's not a big deal but I'd like to resolve it if possible. Thanks in advance.

I apologise for the tech OCD, I’m just so stoked to have this console back in my life and every little noise or sound makes me wonder, “What if”? My Xbox has a Philips DVD drive and when I power the system on with no disc inserted or close the tray with no disc inserted while powered on, I can hear the lens move up and down the track 3 times before settling. Is this normal behaviour for this brand of disc drive? I’ve included a video below, you can clearly hear it after the tray closes. Thanks!

Looking to purchase power button for og Xbox. Would like power button with blue LEDs. If anyone has one available please message me. Thanks

Greetings from Japan, wonderful people of this wonderful forum! I have been a long time lurker and and even longer time dreamer (to have a OG Xbox). As you might know here in Japan Original Xboxes are rare and come pretty expensive (50 to 120usd depending on the conditions). Anyway I recently bit the bullet and for 4500jpy(40usd) got my hands on a semitransparent black limited edition with controllers HD converters and original cables, all in very good conditions (externally). DVD is finicky but after few shots works. MB should be a 1.0 according to serial number. The seal is still intact which makes me believe nobody has been in there. I got a copy of splinter cell, ordered usb port and ide-to-sata interface, ide cables. I am studying now right usb stick while I was looking my chances for a softmod and maybe an HDD upgrade (I have many laying around). I read discussions in which members say "chip or death" but I am noob with solder - I fix almost everything all the time so I do not know if it is a bit of a complex, Japanese humility or just I am still a noob for real. Let's just say I am not confident enough to try TSOP or modchips on this beauty while just remove the clock capacitor is something I would feel totally ok doing. Looking around for component I stumbled upon this seller online that offers what stated in the title: a modded xbox 128mb ram, 2tb, fanless heatsink, softmodded for 200usd. I mean just the components are about 150usd. The guy clearly loves xbox. The fan-less heat-sink and the lack of a modchip are the only two things that really make me go like "nani?" especially the heat sink so I decided to ask here... I know that later models did not have one but is it safe? also how it is the price? should I just drop it and buy this one or should I softmod it by myself? In case can I swap the "shell" with the one I have or depends on the MB series? Thank you for reading this huge thing. edit: also can you suggest me a reliable and noob friendly step by step guide to softmod?

Xbox takes about ten minutes to load the dashboard if I do not attach the DVD drive. I have more xboxes than I do working DVD drives so my goal is to build a working xbox that doesn't require the DVD drive. My issue seems to match a previous post. I used TruHexen 2021 to write 256K EvoX NoDVD to TSOP. From the previous thread, I see that KaosEngineer recommended using EvTool to customize the BIOS before flashing. I grabbed EvolutionX M8plus Bios.rar from xbins. I am paranoid about bricking my xbox. Before I flash, I wanted to make sure I am flashing the correct BIOS. Within the archive, I see a M8plus.bin file which I believe is the correct one to use for 1.2. The MD5 is 0xdfc6288f6b67fd021e1970491c64c0a0. This MD5 doesn't match the Evox M8 MD5 listed at https://www.reddit.com/r/originalxbox/wiki/bios/md5 of aa4d0820b932009090f780f0ee1d1b1c. Do I have the correct Evox M8plus BIOS for my 1.2?

Hello, I know PAL games can display 480p if a PAL Xbox is softmodded NTSC. But do those « forced » 480p PAL games are as good as native 480p NTSC games ? I explain my point : on a region free PAL Gamecube, you can force 480p on PAL games with Swiss. But some games aren’t as good as their NTSC equivalent in 480p, because they are optimized for 480i/576i mode, not for 480i/480p mode, and so they can have some issues with their pictures. So, my question is : do PAL Xbox games have this kind of optimization for PAL region, as Gamecube games, or are they strictly identical to NTSC ones ? Thanks for your answers.

Hi all! I'm having some trouble with installing an OpenXenium purchased from MakeMHZ into an Xbox 1.0. I'm relatively new to this, and have surely made some mistakes. When I start it up, it does this: https://imgur.com/a/HTHYrU2 Here's what I know: Stupidly, I soldered the D0 pad on the modchip to the 1.6 pad - that has been fixed. I don't think this is the issue, because I have a second chip that I did not make this mistake with, and it still does not work. I didn't scrape the solder mask off LPC ports, and really had trouble flowing the joints. The one I'm most concerned with is the bottom right joint of the first photo. Can I run a jump wire from that to one of the nearby test pads? I'm fairly confident the D0 pad on the modchip is correctly connected to D0 on the board - I tested the continuity from the chip to the both points on the board, and was good. I have photos available here: https://imgur.com/a/FX7R43B Thanks for any info in advance!!

Im looking for some ideas to try before I look for a replacement xbox. Im not sure if i can do anything else at this point. My xbox was soft modded for some time, but I wanted to do a tsop to unlock the drive and then put in a 2.5 inch 500 gb sata drive. I did the tsop (i have a v1.5) soldered the 2 point and flashed the tsop with hexen 2021 disc. Put in my sata driver with adpater and 80 pin cable and everything was great. I started uploaded the library that i have. I also removed the supercap. I was down to my really scrached discs and was trying to see i could get good copies from them, but gave up. I picked up some new titles and went to install them and the xbox wouldnt boot. I get the evo/xbox splash screen to a blank screen with the orange led. Tried booting hexen or soft mod or game disc and nothing. I tried cleaning out the dvd drive, that didnt help. The last thing i did with the drive was watch it with the cover off. It doesnt appear to be trying to focus nor does it appear to be emitting a laser. It does move the laser head unit on the rails. But i dont think this should stop a boot to harddrive? I went back to the ide drive and the 40 pin cable and no change. I tried combinations of hooking up pc cdrom to the ide and dvd on the power. Thought maybe the dvd drive was corrupting the ide bus. Ive checked my caps and board multiple times. The only thing i was suspicious of was a pin point spot on the nvidia chip, i hope it didnt melt itself inside. So thats where im at, i think my dvd is toast and maybe the ide on the motherboard is broken.

I recently bought an original Xbox It worked fine (would go to date and time page on every start up) up until last week now on start up it does the date and time screen, I try to get past that page by to play the game but there is no response from the console I have tried 2 different controllers and a dvd remote and still no luck. Any input on what the problem could be and a resolution is much appreciated

hello guys i have an xbox with 80gb hard drive i have another 120gb hard drive my question is how i can replace it with the 80gb my xbox has Aladdin modchip

i have recently been playing xmen: legends on my hard modded xbox. this is the 1st time i have done this. i have played this game through many times and i have noticed a couple glitches that i have never seen before. this is the first time i have ever played it from the hdd on a hard modded xbox. this is also the 1st time i have ever played it through on a v1.4 xbox. most of the times in the past were on my v1.6 and once on a v1.0. both used the disc. so i'm not certain if it is that i am playing it for the 1st time from the hdd or that i'm playing from a v1.4 xbox for the 1st time. thoughts?

Hi, i Was lucky enough and get free Xbox Classic. Xbox was manufactured in 2003. During the disassembly i found out that console got modchip, could you help me determine which one modchip is it (see attached)? I did some digging and probably the chip that is installed is Aladdin, and it should start after holding power button for about 1s, but nothing happens after that, just MS Bios starting. I've checked if the wires are still soldered and they hold well. Also found out that there is a leak from capacitor - probably the what that is used to hold the clock. I found information that it can be removed. Please share yours knowledge with me ;)

I have noticed that there are still a few sealed consoles on ebay and they can get quite expensive. With all these consoles being sealed and in storage for over 15 years is it likely that the caps (apart from the usual problem caps) will need to be reformed or replaced before powered?

Hello Friends. I need some help: my Original Xbox 1.6 (has an aladdin modchip and 500GB SATA HD) used to work very well. Suddenly one day it started to show error 13. Now I realized that it only works when I connect the HD on the middle connector of the IDE cable and the DVD drive on the end connector (this way it works correctly). If I connect the normal way (DVD in the middle connector and HD in the end connector) it shows error 13. I am using the stock IDE cable and I tested other 40 wire IDE cable and the result is the same. Does anybody know why this is happening? Is this happening because I am not using a 80 wire IDE cable? But it used to work with this stock cable. Can somebody help me to understand this problem?

As it says in the title.