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This is a little project I worked on from October 2024 to January 2025 with help from Skye and HoneySoakedSegull. Original idea by Siktah (he had been nagging me about this for a year). Before anyone comments or asks, yes this just transfers the solder skill requirement from the repair person to the board assembler/merchant. This isn't something everyone needs, and I think it's rather pointless, as I just do my own trace repairs. That being said; not everyone has precision soldering equipment, not everyone has fantastic magnification to do their solder work, and not everyone has the effort for traditional front panel trace fixes. Without further ado I present Hugin and Munin trace fix cards and the D0-ET board. Siktah and I entered these as an exhibition entry into Xbox-Scene Modfest 2024: https://www.xbox-scene.info/articles/xbox-scene-modfest-2024-celebrating-homebrew-innovation-and-the-modding-scene-for-xbox-xbox-360-xbox-one-and-xbox-series-x-r54/ The boards are to be used in pairs, 1x Hugin (A) board and 1x Munin (B) board per repair. all 1.0 and 1.1 boards use one set of boards, all 1.2-1.6 boards use a different set. They require a 25cm ish 0.5mm pitch, 4-pin flex cable to jump between the two boards, and you only enable the trace repairs you require on the Munin (B) board. The flex connector must be folded 90 degrees one time to for the contacts to like up correctly. The red front panel LED is the least likely trace to fail, but it also doesn't have nearby "friendly" test points either. So a wire going from the RED pad on the B board to an alternate test point on the motherboard will be required. Unfortunately some boards don't have an easy to solder test point for the Red LED, so it may be easiest to solder right to the SMC. I am currently writing up install instructions and gathering fresh board images for every board rev. Here are some early "quick and dirty" images for 1.4 and 1.6: I made the FPC connectors quite large to support a huge variety of connectors, though I do include documentation on the bottom of each PCB for the needed resistors and a compatible FPC connector. You can also use top only, bottom only, or top+bottom FPC connectors as long as you use a "reverse direction" flex cable with one set of contacts on the top, and one set of contacts on the bottom if you use top or bottom only FPC connectors. As an added bonus, EqUiNoX repeatedly requested a simple, multifunction D0 board. So alongside Hugin and Munin I designed D0-ET as part of this set. Aside from protecting your D0 point from accidental damage from pulling on a wire the D0-ET (pronounced duet) has 3 possible functions: grounding out the D0 point directly giving a larger pad to solder to, to connect to a modchip with a simple D0 pad like an OpenXenium, ModXo boards, or an X2 / X3 wire harness giving a JST-SH 1.0mm 2-pin connector to connect directly to a modchip like Xenium Ice, Xenium Gold, or various ModXo boards An earlier (less well fitting) revision of this board can be seen installed on the 1.4 motherboard picture above. I am finally learning more about git and specifically github with the release of the Skeleton Key branded USB adapters (based of xbox7887's USB adapter, with support, permission and an overly permissive license). https://github.com/OGXHarcroft/Xbox-Skeleton-Key-USB-Adapter The gerbers for all 5 of these boards are already on the Xbox-Scene discord in the Modfest channel as of roughly 6 months ago and some sellers have already started selling them. Hugin and Munin FP Trace Fix boards are also coming soon to a github near you!

I attempted another trace repair on my XBOX yesterday. This time I did it on all the correct points. I turned it on and everything started up fine. The power was working and the eject was working fine as well…until it wasn’t. When I tried turning it off, the power button didn’t turn it off. I then unplugged it and when I ré plugged it in, it turned on by itself, and the power button never worked again. The eject seems to be working perfectly however. I opened it back up and inspected my Soldering. When I gave the power wire a slight tug, it fell right off. I guess I didn’t solder strong enough. Here’s the bad thing, when I took off the power wire for the other side, so where all of the traces lead, I think I kinda ripped off the copper pad! The point that was once metal is now black! Worse, I think that damaged the other traces leading to…something? I’m not sure. Sorry if the image is blurry. Help would be real nice! I think I just made everything much worse…much, much worse.

Soon I'm gonna try and repair the traces on my Xbox. I've done my fair share of soldering in the past, and I don't think it's gonna be too hard. The only question I have is about what I have to solder. It seems I need to solder 4 points, but do I really? The power button still sorta works, and the Red LED light still works as well. Could someone give me a nice tutorial? Thanks! EDIT: Hold up, I was just watching this Xbox Repair video, and they turned it on showing the power board. But when it turned on, two of the LED Lights showed up. and they were both Green. I though that one was red and one was green! So if that's the case, why the hell would the red work but not the green!?

Hi I'm currently doing a lpc rebuild on a 1.6 og xbox and I've managed to lift the trace on the trace near R7P4 does anyone know if theres somewhere else on the board I can pick this up? Thanks in advance.

I'm trying to fix the mobo on my other Halo console instead of replacing the board. The power button does not work or green lights. Only red lights and eject works. I've removed the clock capacitor and cleaned the whole area on top and underneath with alcohol. But only one trace looks bad, so I can't account for all the failure... Can I run this thing without a clock cap? Lol seems to be booting without it.

I have a 1.0 Xbox I got from Goodwill online. It smells like a smoker crawled inside it and died, and I ended up accidentally tearing off the alt d0 pad , but got someone to repair it. However, it still does not boot, as it FRAGs instead. Can't figure out what is wrong - tons of pictures attached below. Things I've tried: Known-good PSU Booting WITH modchip + grounded d0 Booting without modchip or grounded D0 Swapping capacitors with good capacitors from a 1.1 Swapping the TSOP for one from a 1.1 Cleaning the board with IPA (multiple times) If any closer pictures are needed of any part, tell me.

So I had the issue where the xbox would come on as soon as it was plugged in and the power button would not work to shut it off. So I did the trace repair on all 5 traces in the tutorial. Now the xbox will still come on as soon as it's plugged in but it will not shut off Randomly. Is there another trace other than the 5 in the tutorial That need repair?

I have a v1.4 Xbox and I followed the trace corrosion repair thread. I saw that trace A which is in the picture was bad and I tried to run a wire from the via, but it was too difficult. http://web.archive.org/web/20160330163920/http://diy.sickmods.net/images/pe_trace_12-15.jpg I decided to instead run a wire from the top side of the board to the end of the trace at the circular pad A. So, I wired it to the right side of the bottom signal resistor that's highlighted in red in the P/E continuity trace linked picture. However, I just now noticed that maybe the wire should've been soldered to the left side that's highlighted in pink. It seems to go on and off correctly, but I'm worried maybe I'm bypassing the resistor because of the way I soldered it in.

Hello, I bought an OG v1.1 recently and worked just fine, it came with an Aladdin (I don't know what model, but assume is an old one). The chip doesn't worked so I softmodded and left the chip in its place. After a few weeks playing the xbox simply shutdown in the middle of a Mario Party gameplay and when try to turn it on it tried to boot from the modchip (I think it activates holding the power button for a few seconds). I though it was the CPU overheating, so increase the fan potency (x3), replace the thermal paste and remove the clock capacitor finding little to no corrosion in the board but quite a few components rusted, which I cleaned. When I tried to play again it was even worse, it shutdown more often than before and when I turn it off the thing turn on again trying to boot from the modchip. Then I check for trace corrosion and there was nothing visible, but made the bypass for the 4 traces either, nothing new happened. Maybe the modchip was the problem, right? Well, no. After removing it, the only difference was that it booted normally. Then I remembered that the freaking fan was on x3, and put it back to x1, since then no more unexpected turn offs or ons, it works as good as before. I came here to ask the experts: this makes any sense at all?

After doing the trace repair (I used this video as an example) my Xbox powers on automatically but at least the random shutdown issues appear to be fixed. I can't seem to open the disc drive unless I press both power and the disc drive buttons. I notice the J2 trace seems to be causing it as I removed that one trace wire in troubleshooting. Nothing appears to be shorting. I can provide pictures once I'm done formatting/setting up the HDD I just put in.

Any alternative places to solder? Accidentally lifted the wire under trace A while following the guide

So a friend handed over his old no longer working Xbox 1.0. Basically your typical frag..2 to 3 reboots then the Red - Green lights with no video or audio. I opened it up..sure enough the clock cap was still there so took that out and here are some pics of the top and bottom of the MB: So I'm concerned with the first pic...is that trace rot along the lower edge of the mother board? I think thats exactly the bottom part of where the clock cap was...and there was a bit of acid there which I cleaned up before taking the pic...so could this be the cause of the FRAG? If so what are my options to bring this back to life? By the way this box has never been opened or softmodded.

Hi everyone! I have a 1.4 with trace issues, upon plugging in the power it starts automatically and when it's off, will occasionally boot at random. I managed to repair one trace as a preventative but not the 3 needed to ensure it's not an issue anymore, I found them too hard to work on https://imgur.com/gallery/ExATwa6 (not my pictures, just as an example!) I did the equivalent of the white wire and blue, is there another place to solder the other green/purple equivalent connections? It would be on the other side of the board I assume.

Hi, I have been given two Xbox consoles, one to repair (and I may get to keep the other), both new to me and have been in storage for years so owner is unsure of details. Both hard modded. One works fine, the other after fixing an overheating issue now works to turn on intermittently using the power button. Eject seems to work OK. The hard mod requires the use of the power button, it will work after 5 or so minutes of fiddling. Because I am in a unique situation I am looking for advice that I can't search in another category. I have been asked to get photos and saved games off the non working box. My soldering skills are limited and kynar wire will cost me $20 here in Australia so I'm hoping there might be another fix. Given both boxes are hard modded is there a way to unlock the drive in the non working box and use it in the working one? I have been told that a straight swap didn't work which is why it's been given to me to find a fix. I've read about nulling the HDD and eeprom but all info seems to be based on a softmod. I have contemplated several options but not sure what will be simplest, lowest risk etc. Cloning - can I clone a drive from one box and use the data in another? Swap - Is this possible? Do I need to null the HDD and eeprom on both boxes? Can I look up the eeprom code on the working box and change the HDD code to match? FTP, can I simply FTP the data from the non working box and then push it to the other box? (Keeping in mind by non-working I mean it takes 5 minutes to get the power button to boot into the hard mod. Finally a hardware fix. As I said my soldering skills are limited so I'm worried about this proper fix for now (though it may be easiest and will result in two working boxes). Thanks in advance for your suggestions.

My old eyes and lack of soldering skills has caused a problem. Plan was to TSOP a 1.0 Xbox. Top side bridge R7D3 went fine, but on the bottom of the board at R7R3 I burnt off the pad and the trace lifted up (bottom arrow). Can I solder a wire from the lifted trace to either the pad above it if I can get it to stick or the surface mount resistor above that pad (seen in pic)? Xbox is softmodded and still working. Maybe i should just quit while I am ahead lol

Hi guys, So I've got a problem just like the title says my Xbox is being weird and not turning off. I've opened it up, removed the clock cap and cleaned up the very minimal corrosion that I could find and gave it a good scrubbing with a soft toothbrush and isopropyl, I've inspected the traces, poked around with my multimeter and have continuity happening and can't see any damage at all even under a magnifier. But I'm getting some odd symptoms that I've read about where I can't turn it off and it opens the dvd drive. Now the reason I find this weird is that it doesn't happen all the time, from a cold boot it's totally fine, but I lose the ability to turn it off only after the xbox has been on for about 30 minutes. Wondering if you guys can think of any other things that could be the problem? Thanks!

Hello, I've got an xbox to which I've performed the trace corrosion repair on the past, as the buttons did not shut down the console properly (it only turned on after i applied power to the unit). I've ran it just with the power button working, until now, when I decided to go ahead and try to fix both buttons. But now it went bad or something, because no matter how hard I jump wires to traces A, B and D (C is fine on my board, and I can't find E) as shown on this thread, the console simply refuses to turn on anymore.the wires are just fine and they give me continuity when soldered, but that's that. I know for sure that the power supply is perfectly fine (it never really failed). Even with only traces A and B soldered properly I can't get the console to boot anymore, and the right hand side of C7P8 has continunity to the solder pad in trace D (just saying because i'm not sure if this is how it should be, I hope nothing shorted ). Is there any other way to wire the power to the board so it'll work again? It would be really bad to have to throw it away over something like this.... I really hope someone can help me. Thanks in advance.