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Showing results for tags 'supply'.
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Hi all, I was given this power supply and I can´t find much information online about it. I need to know more before I connect it to the power outlet because i don´t want to break it! I did saw some topics and pictures on the forum from people in the UK who had the same "TUSCANY" Branded PSU. so if UK is 230v then i wanted to know if mine is also 230v I want to know the following: 1) is the TUSCANY POWER SUPPLY only found in Europe with 230volts or there is a TUSCANY version for USA 110v? 2) is the TUSCANY POWER SUPPLY dual voltage? 110v and 230v ? 2) my power supply (pictures below) ... I have no clue if it is 110v or 230v, does anyone know? 3) if my power supply is a UK power supply for 1.6 revision of OGXbox motherboard,can it work also on a USA 1.6 motherboard? 4) my power supply (pictures below) at first looked like untouched, but after looking at some pictures online I have he feeling that 3 capacitors were replaced. because from the pictures i saw, from factory, they place a red dot on top of the capacitor, but mine has no dots( I have marked the 3 caps in circles, i believe were replaced and provided what they used as replacement, does anyone know the UF and voltage of the original caps?)
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Hi all I recently got a Xbox 1.0 for repair and it had a Minebea power supply in it. The power supply emits a high pitched noise when the power button is pressed but has no other signs of life. Besides replacing the fuse near the outlet is there another place I need to look for a fuse to fix it? Thanks in advance
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Is this power supply multivolt? A friend gave me this power supply and it worked on a 220v outlet despite it saying 100-127v. This power supply doesn't look like it's been modded. I have other power supplies of the same model and I've been using a 110v to 220v transformer with them.
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Hello everyone, I finished modding my Xbox about 2 months ago and honestly haven’t had the time to sit down and play it. This weekend finally I could and noticed that when I started using it this high pitched coil whine type of noise started emitting from the right side of the console. Link here for a video where you can hear it - https://imgur.com/gallery/xbox-high-pitched-noise-uhg7cir . As I’m writing this it has went away and came back twice. The console is a 1.0 with the Minebea 1.0 original psu. I cleaned everything and the psu looked fine when I had everything out a few months ago. Please note that I have replaced my fans with a noctua on the GPU and nexus on the case, and a new 1tb hard drive so I don’t think it’s the normal noise makers that are making that noise. Any testing I should do to help narrow this down? Console works great though and runs cool. -
I'm having an unlucky day, I have a 1.6 Xbox that's barely been used since new, a crystal box, It's just had a softmod on it although I'd just ordered a mod chip that I could install on it but it hasn't arrived yet. Either way, I went to fire it up today and completely dead, press eject or power and nothing, doesn't try to come on at all as if there is no power going to it. I fired it up last week when I pulled it out of storage and it worked fine. So, it's looking like potentially the power suplly has failed. In my collection of goodies I found an Xbox power supply, it's brand new never used in box. Here are some photos of it. It has both types of power connector. A switch to go between 120 and 240 volts, I'd need the 240. Do you think this would be fine to use on a 1.6 XBox for an Australian 240v Xbox?
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Hello! I hope someone is still alive here!! Well that's it, is there currently an adapter to replace the power supply of an Xbox version 1.6? Something like the AT2XBOX project launched -
Why is it the ram and cpu upgrades on the original xbox are done. But those that do fail to upgrade the next most vital component in your console pcs. Upgrade you power supplies to a larger one to give the system better response time and a deeper well of wattage to pull from. Put an atx in there that has 2 12 v rails and make sure that board has all the power running to it efficiently a 80 or 90 % percent efficient 400 or 500 or 300 watt power supply will give you so many more options for cooling and give that mainboard all the power it needs to function better than ever. Also put low esr capacitors on the board or aluminum polymer capacitors that run at a lower frequenzy and run cooler for you system to truly modernize it. I see the cpu upgrade the ram upgrade, the firmware upgrade, the cosmetic upgrades, but no power upgrades, no capacitor component upgrades. Why are you people not doing this with your retro game consoles. Seriously why has no xbox with the formentioned upgrades that are common talked about not complimented with a larger power supply. And don't give me that crap about the system only uses so much power blah blah blah. That isn't true. A more efficient power supply and low esr capacitors will do wonders for you system. I did a power supply upgrade for the playstation 2 and i can tell you it works better than ever and i can put a 12v fan in it and still give the main board all the power it could ever need with a 180 watt imac power supply from an apple imac A1224 i have 3 for sale on ebay see them there nicely painted and perform better and have a big boy pc grounded 3 pin 110v-250v ac in plug. Also line filters Emi filters, get them there amazing. -
Got a dead XBOX 1.6 for cheap, it was super clean but had been previously opened so I was a little wary of what I'd find inside. Power supply fuse was missing and the attached pic is the soldering butcher job i found. I'm not familiar with 1.6 PSUs, and couldn't find any quality pics of one online to see what the layout is supposed to be, so i'm wondering if there is any saving this? Don't know what continuity (if any) is supposed to exist between the 3 points there. The bottom round hole is where the fuse is supposed to attach. Worried that the damage/solder spill shorted or created unwanted continuity but can't tell since I don't know how it was originally. The brown lines are what appears to be scratches as if someone tried to scratch away solder to keep the points separated? I dunno. If it is fixable, was wondering what could have caused the fuse to blow that necessitated the repair attempt, as in are there any usual suspects I should look/test for on the Power supply? The rest of the Power supply looks fine. The mobo had some bad caps so i went ahead and replaced the 5 usual ones there but other than that no visible defects on either the mobo or power supply. Any help or thoughts on power supply layout and downstream test/checks would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
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can I use bridge of power supply outside classic xbox 1.6 . how can I use it with jamma .
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I live in the USA and need a few PAL power supplies for any model besides 1.6, I'd take 1 but would buy up to 3 if you have them available. Let me know if you can help!
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can anyone tell me if you can swap the power supplys without any fussing about just stright from one to another.
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Hello, i have this power Board 1.1 Version 220 volt with burned parts.. I like to know the value of resistor, can someone help me? Thanks
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Hi all, Brand new to the OG XBox scene I just imported myself a JP NTSC unit for that 60hz goodness. Being in Australia means not wanting to buy locally due to being a PAL 50hz territory. Can anyone point me in the right direction to a compatible 240V power supply for this unit? Thanks in advance! Edit: Just doing some reading, it seems the done thing is buying a second local xbox of the same revision / has the same headers, and swapping the PSU into my imported unit. Is that about right?
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I have an Xecuter 2.3 lite+ that I hard wired from years ago, but there is no video output. I have unplugged the DVD/HD and turned the chip off and dont get a video signal. There is a blue light on the mod chip that should be solid, but is flickering when I attempt to boot in this manner. I watched this video: and the dude put a heat gun on what appears to be the power supply capacitors and it worked. I tried something similar with mine and got it to boot one time with a solid blue light on the mod chip, but not since. I tested the power supply plug with a multimeter and all the voltages looked within spec/steady under no load. If the power supply caps are indeed the problem, should I just replace the power supply, since it appears that cap kits for it are the same price if not more expensive based on what I can google? Is there a better option to get it working again? Cheers
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Hello.. Ive seen a Universal one floating around, but i have a Dead 1.0 PS and a good 1.6PS.. I was wondering if there was a diagram where id be able to splice in the 1.0 connector and remove the 1.6.. thanks in advance
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I've been trying for days but to no avail I need a power supply with 220v input in one with 127v input A delta DSPN-96AP-1 I have seen that they are practically identical to the ones that have turned into DSPN-96AP it does not have the simple jumper Everything else is identical I removed the transformer and made the jumper and I powered with 127v Unfortunately the power supply does not turn on Do you have any advice?
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Hey guys, this week I've had two xboxs that were untouched seals still intact and clock cap leaking everywhere just starting cleaning when i noticed both had the same issue, the two screws on the hard drive caddy that screw the hd to the caddy have unscrewed with vibrations from the drive I would guess as they are both the same side right looking at the front of the xbox,( if the hd spun up the other way probably be the other two) and ended up in the power supply. May be worth a drop of lock tight or a shake proof washer for anybody still using one. the screw is nestled in between the the heat sinks next to the transformer. Ted
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Hi all, I recently came across a 1.4 xbox that would not power on, and after replacing the power supply with one from a working 1.4 console it came to life. i checked the fuse for continuity and it was blown, so i replaced it and now this piece blew up (see picture) and instantly blew the fuse again. i was wondering if anyone knows where i can get a replacement of the piece that exploded, cheers.
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Hi all, so I've just done a really dumb/bad thing and was hoping to get some advice please... Putting a different HD into my modded box, the X3 chip wasn't booting (it sometimes doesn't sit right and has to be wiggled) and stupidly, without thinking, I tried moving the disc drive unit on top of it, while the unit was still plugged in... One loud pop, a flash on the power board and a blown trip switch in my flat later: the Xbox is now dead... :-( So my question is: am I screwed? Or can I swap out the power supply board for a replacement one? I have 2 spare working Xboxes in the cupboard - so could I just replace the whole power supply board? Or is that gonna be "way too easy"... (I'm guessing they were a few different types of power supply boards back in the day: the attached photo is the one in my modded box...)
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My power supply died recently and I'm looking to take readings to test different areas to rebuild it. I was curious if anybody had diagrams with ratings for the single row connector revision of the power supply? If not could I get ratings for the components that blew in the picture attached to this post?
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Hello all, I am new to xbox modding. I am just trying to learn more about the software side of modding this console. I have experience modding just about every other console and am now getting into the original xbox. I've installed an openxenium mod chip, and have ordered a 2TB hdd, ide to sata converter, and 80 wire ribbon cable. I'm just trying to get a feel for what the current methods people are using as a lot of information is outdated. Thanks for reading this. -
I am repairing xbox 1.4 for a friend. His box is having power supply issue. There is not enough volt to run the hard drive. I used external 12v/ 5v source to power the hard drive and the system boots up fine. The dvd disk drive is also working fine as it is connected to the xbox power supply. I took the xbox power supply out and didn't notice any bad caps or bad solder joints. With everything connected and powered up ,except for the power to the hard drive I get the following voltage values. Orange = 3.3V, Blue = 3.3V, Brown =3.3V, Red = 4.48V, and Yellow = 10.5V. I tried adjust the pot and that is max i can get for red and yellow wires. Which caps do I need replace for these two voltages ? or is there something else i can check? Thanks.
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hi all, last year i modified an old og xbox to take a different power supply, but that unit is at our caravan 400 miles away, i have just got an xbox for free but it has no dvd drive(i have a spare), and no power supply. i have an atx supply i can plug in to try and get it working, and i can just make the atx supply always on, but i cant remember if i can just ignore the non power wires, ps on, power good etc. so basically what i'm asking is what do i do with the other wires in the xbox plug?, i know the pinouts of my xbox plug but i cant remember what to do with the extra wires, can i just tape them off? for process of testing, i can wire it up with the diodes and a transistor later if the xbox boots. thankyou aly, ps i hate getting old i used to have a great memory.
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Hello all, So my friend dug up his old og Xbox, Been sitting on a book shelf for 10+ years. Opened it up today removed the clock capacitor and cleaned around it. While open, powered it and... significant loud pop & smoke...Unsure what caused it but are going to pull the power supply tomorrow. Anyone ever hear of this before, is my mobo damaged? Thx in advance.
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Hey everyone, It's been awhile since I have been on here and made a post, but I come baring a question about the Intec Portable Screen power supply. I recently acquired an Intec screen for my collection. Went and bought and and the guy said that it had all the cords. Well I was in a hurry when I bought it and I didn't check to make sure everything was there. After getting back home and opening the bag I noticed that I had the power cord but not the converter box that converted the power to 12 volts. My question is do you guys know of an compatible replace brick power supply that I could buy so I can test the screen out to make sure it works ok? I'm just asking because I don't want to take a chance and buy the wrong supply and possibly damage the unit. Thanks for the help everyone!!!
Board Life Status
Board startup date: April 23, 2017 12:45:48