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Intro Since the beginning of time (2004) it was known that the 1.6 was missing the unpopulated footprints for the extra 4 RAM chips and this made the upgrade impossible. I was thinking recently that if all the signals for the extra RAM chips are still available on the board, we can add RAM to the 1.6 by just connecting all the necessary signals. After the tutorial segment I'll go into why this mod works. I'll also post a video on YouTube at some point. Be warned: this is more difficult that a 1.0 - 1.5 RAM upgrade Tutorial Required items Everything mentioned in the 1.0 - 1.5 RAM upgrade tutorial: https://consolemods.org/wiki/Xbox:RAM_Upgrade 4x 90mm long mod-wire. I used enamelled wire from a transformer. ~8 hours spare time Step 1: flash the modified XBlast OS BIOS XBlast OS (as a BIOS) is super helpful in doing this install correctly. It will boot with any number of extra RAM chips and includes a test for the additional RAM. XBlast OS will not show the 128MB test option on a v1.6 Xbox, so I've gone ahead and rebuilt it from source with that check removed. xblast_os_v0.60.bin Alternative Download Link: https://mega.nz/file/eeAwTZKQ#aaFcbACj3htA6cEtKwoiy1L7uK93o4YwUSqkGBEsUz8 If you don't trust my build, this is the line of code that needs removing: At this point, I suggest booting it up and running the test. The test is under Settings > Tools > 128MB RAM test Step 2: Remove the motherboard from the Xbox Step 3: Place the new RAM chip on top of an existing chip You'll want to solder down the corner pins first to get a good mechanical bond and so that you can adjust the alignment. I do this by pushing down pins 30 and 31 and soldering them down to the chip below. Then I check the alignment of the rest of the pins. If it's bad, then the chip can be nudged into position while reflowing the two pins. Then solder the two pins opposite. Step 4: Push down the rest of the pins Except pin 28! That is the chip select pin and it is unique for each RAM chip. Leave this pin floating in the air and don't solder it yet. Pin 30 is marked on the PCB. The pins come in a kind of ‾‾\__ shape. When you push them down, the whole pin will rotate around this end -> ‾‾\__ . I like to also push down the tail ‾‾\__ <- of the pin to get more contact with the chip below. Step 5: Start soldering all the pins Very little extra solder is required. Use lots of flux. I like the tacky flux that usually comes in syringes. I also like the drag-soldering method. If there's any excess solder, you will get shorts between pins and this extra solder can be wicked away. The new pins won't naturally touch the pins below even after pushing them down. Step 6: Check for shorts and missing connections For the first pass, I like to go in with a microscope and nudge each pin (of the new chip) with a cold soldering iron tip. If the pin moves easily, it is not soldered. Also check for shorts at the same time. If you have the patience (and want it to work first try without frying your Xbox), check for shorts and continuity with a multimeter. I skipped this the first time and got bitten! Best to clean the pins and pads with IPA before checking with the multimeter. Step 7: Add the chip-select wire First, figure out which bank you are adding: Then, find the chip-select solder point: Bank 1 CS is left of the label for C4P10 Bank 2 CS is between the labels for C4R12 and C4R13 Bank 3 CS is left and above the label for C4P21 Bank 4 CS is between and above the labels C4R1 and C3R1 For banks 2 and 3, the chip-select wire can go through the hole to the left of the GPU. For bank 2, 90mm may be too short, so check the wire length and cut it as short as possible. I removed the GPU heatsink to access this hole. At this point, it should look something like this: Step 8: Reassemble and test in XBlast For a quick test, I don't bother with adding the fan, GPU heatsink, HDD, or DVD drive. The test in XBlast should look like what I first posted on reddit: If the Xbox reboots twice and FRAGs, check the bios selection (if you have one available). A normal BIOS will not accept between 1 and 3 extra RAM chips. If the Xbox reboots three of four times (and it's faster than a normal FRAG sequence) check for shorts. This happened to me. Step 9: Repeat for the other 3 chips The first one is the hardest. Step 10: Reflash with your favourite BIOS Some 1.6 BIOSs won't support 128MB. The X3 BIOS works just fine and it's the only one I tested so far. xblast_os_v0.60.bin

Hi, Long story short i brought a v1.1 Board and PSU- TSOP with x2_5035 BIOS i was told from the seller, Then brought a Stock faulty xbox (Trace rot), installed new board and PSU into the faulty xbox, Kept he stock HDD and DVD Drive from the faulty Xbox...... Anyway powers up (No Flubber) say's EXECUTER2 CONFIG LIVE LOADING..... and stays on that screen, Eject button FRAG's Is it looking for somthing from the HDD? I did try Hexen and various other Installer DVD's that work on my other consoles. Faulty DVD drive? Im a total TSOP noob and would appreciate some advice please, Theres a video i upped to my Dropbox so you can see what im talking about. Thanks all. https://www.dropbox.com/s/d4t4sh6u1k9zvp0/PXL_20221128_181143241.mp4?dl=0

Hey folks It has been some time since I last posted. Hope you're doing well... What have you been up to? I recently preordered the new version of the HDMI+ mod from MakeMhz which will arrive in july and i wanted to upgrade one of my my existing xboxes with it. Since I'm going to solder anyway and i got some RAM chips laying around, i thought about upgrading the RAM as well. In this regard, i was wondering if there is a BIOS that supports both (HDMI and 128MB RAM). Is the MakeMHz-BIOS taking advantage of 128MB RAM? Does somebody have some experince with this? Thanks in advance for you thoughts! Greetings Bot

I did a ram upgrade and swapped a 1.0 heat sink onto a 1.2 mobo and no get a solid black picture with no sound? I thought I may have screwed up the ram but get the same result when I plug a chip in with xblast. Then I noticed that if I plugged in my hard drive the light ring switches to my XBMC settings. I get the same result when booting from disk also. There does not seem to be any missing components from the board around any of the work areas. This was an issue with both component and composite cables. Anyone have any ideas on what to check next?

Hey, I've done a RAM upgrade on one of my consoles (1.4) and it's doing the on/off/on/off/on flash orange and red dance. I've reflowed the chips, scoured them with a magnifying glass for bridging and the rest of the board for splashes, and scrubbed the board with IPA hoping that if it was a splash, it'd be knocked loose, but I've had no luck. I'm at the point where I think it might just be some bad memory, so what would be the best way to remove the chips without damaging or moving the surrounding components?

In theory it is possible that the OG Xbox supports more than 128MB of RAM ? As for example 4 chips of 500 MB would already be a total of 2GB of RAM

I’m in the process of upgrading my 1.2/3 Xbox with more RAM. I also have a DEAD 1.3 that I want to take the chips from and add them to the 1.2/3. I've watched many tutorials and think the whole process isn’t that complicated. is there anything I should know before hand before I start project? My 1.2/3 is TSOP’d with IND_BIO’s extended f/ partition that I use from HEXEN 2021 flashed to a 1TB hard drive.

photo 01 photo 02 photo 03 photo 04 photo 05 provides more power and memory for: - removing slowdowns in emulators - hex patches for 720p output resolution - improved dashboard performance on 720p resolution - improved Linux performance 2TB HDD storage: - new unit installed Xerc2: - makes your Xbox turn ON and OFF from a remote (some TV remotes or Xbox DVD remote) - IR receiver was installed on the left bottom side of the front panel (requires some tweaks to work with your remote) OGX360: - lets you connect wireless Xbox 360 controllers to Xbox Original - installed internally (can be turned ON and OFF by clicking the button on left bottom side of the front panel) - 2 channels soldered and programmed (controller port 1 and 2) - OGX360 USB is located on the back of the console Others: - has 2 options, one for stock Xbox speed, and another one for 1067mhz this way you can play stock Xbox games without troubles and glitches, and also play Emulators in fullspeed - painted blue (automotive paint then clear coat) Listing contains: 1 x Xbox console (with 1ghz CPU, 128mb RAM, 2TB HDD, XERC2 and OGX360) 1 x Wireless Xbox 360 controller 1 x Wireless Xbox 360 receiver for PC 1 x Power Cord (USA or European depending on your location, same for Power Supply, if you are from USA it will be 110v, if from Europe - 220v) 1 x Xbox2HDMI

I have a 1.0 and I flashed XBlast to the TSOP then tested each chip as I went. Once all 4 were passing I reinstalled OpenXenium and attempted to boot iND-BIOS-5003. Only, the LED flashes green and it doesn't boot. I tested several homebrew BIOS loaded from OpenXenium and they all have the same problem. I'm considering triple-checking for shorts (or reflowing with hot air) yet I'm surprised because XBlast boots and says all 4 RAM passes. I found a couple of Reddit posts with the exact problem: https://www.reddit.com/r/originalxbox/comments/7fppvw/attempted_128mb_upgrade_wont_boot_flashing_green/ https://www.reddit.com/r/originalxbox/comments/epel27/no_soundvideo_flashing_green_light_after_128mb/ I'd like to avoid doing anything drastic as XBlast finally states all 4 RAM are passing. The only other oddity is (even before this above error) when FTP to OpenXenium the drives (C, E, F) do not show up. Yet, the drives were available when FTP to a homebrew dash like UnleashX. Tested a different XBOX and FTP to OpenXenium all drivers were available.

Hi folks, first time listener, first time caller. I recently inherited a 1.1 console and am going through the motions of getting it rounded out and looking pretty. I went ahead and did the Rocky softmod, and today I successfully converted it over to a 2TB 2.5" WD drive. No issues. I have the MakeMHZ XboxHD+ kit coming tomorrow along with modchip, so I figured I'd go ahead and get this 128MB upgrade knocked out. I'm not a novice solder head by any means, I do a lot of work with my station on a fairly regular basis. I installed all four RAM chips and went to test, got the crappy flashing lights and forced a boot into dash anyway. 2 of the RAM chips didn't pass. No big deal, powered the console off and went back to work. Once I was satisfied with my handiwork (reflowing, checking for bridging, etc) I put everything back together. Now I get no flubber startup, no audio, nothing. The light on the XBOX is solid green and shows no errors. I can't FTP into the XBOX either. Drive eject works fine, the NIC light is flashing in the back when cabled. I've tried the llamma coma tech as well (both sides) and that doesn't seem to force boot the system either. What should I do here?

Hey guys, I've got a 1.2 that I spent the weekend revitalizing with all new fresh capacitors and upgrading the RAM to 128mb. Everything went well. I had Xblast reading all 128mb, and everything was working a treat. That is until I went to pull it apart for final disassembly to clean the case and everything up before putting all back together for the last time. I first removed the SATA/IDE adapter from the HDD, leaving the molex connector in place and holding it by the cables and moved the HDD tray out of the way. It was then, that I somehow managed to let the SATA/IDE adapter dangle enough for it to brush the PSU right along side the big 470uF 250v capacitor without realizing it. And in my excited haste, I had not yet disconnected the power cord from the Xbox... As soon as I saw the bright flash and pop that was the SATA adapter getting completely obliterated, my heart immediately sank. The adapter, of course, is thoroughly destroyed. The logic IC and one of the voltage regulators quite literally exploded. At that point, I knew I'd be extremely lucky if it was the only casualty. On the Xbox itself, it blew the T3.15A on the PSU. I had some spare 3 amp glass slow-blow fuses, so I rigged one up until I get the proper cylindrical fuse to replace it later this week. Surprisingly enough, the PSU still works fine, albeit with a slight discolored battle scar on side of the big capacitor... However the motherboard is a different story. It now 3 boot/FRAGs both with or without the X2.3b lite I've had installed for years present. Thinking I had fried it, not feeling too optimistic about fixing it, I harvested the newly installed RAM, and original RAM but subsequently reinstalled the original, after changing my mind on giving up so quickly. Anyway, I've tried all the troubleshooting methods I could with what tools I have at my disposal, which is not much. All the PSU voltages are good. I've swapped PSUs with another, just in case. One observation I made is that the MCPX X3 gets really hot very quickly, so I'm sort of thinking it's shorted and therefore also toast, and that's what's causing it to FRAG. In any case, I figured, maybe I'd share my story for your entertainment, and maybe even see if any of you had any suggestions on what else I might try to test before I go on the hunt for a replacement board and continue scavenging useful parts from this one.

Hey all, I've just got back into playing my original xbox and I've got XMBC4GAMERS set up on a new 2tb HDD. Can anyone advise on patching xbe game files using Linux so that i can take advantage of 128mb of RAM?

My modest modification. 128MB Ram New Fan Open Xenium Chip with Ryzee119's XEnium Spi2par2019 To be continued...

I would like to use my Xbox as an Arcade emulation machine but found that certain games don't run at full speed (e.g Outrunners plays at 40fps most of the time, Outzone has lots of slowdown when there's any paralax or lots happening on screen, etc). I was wondering if an Xbox with the 128mb RAM upgrade would help with these performance problems?

Hi Everyone! I'm in the market for a 1.0 motherboard that has had the extra ram up to 128mb chips added, has had all the caps replaced, the clock cap removed, the TSOP write points restored, and CPU thermal paste replaced. Essentially a nicely restored 128mb 1.0 motherboard that won't give me any trouble for! Optionally it would be nice to have the LPC pin headers installed in the case recovery is needed. I know there is a lot of time in that request between the caps and the ram, so please name your price. I'm in the US.

8 sets of original Xbox ram 70 usd shipped us only

Greetings from Japan, wonderful people of this wonderful forum! I have been a long time lurker and and even longer time dreamer (to have a OG Xbox). As you might know here in Japan Original Xboxes are rare and come pretty expensive (50 to 120usd depending on the conditions). Anyway I recently bit the bullet and for 4500jpy(40usd) got my hands on a semitransparent black limited edition with controllers HD converters and original cables, all in very good conditions (externally). DVD is finicky but after few shots works. MB should be a 1.0 according to serial number. The seal is still intact which makes me believe nobody has been in there. I got a copy of splinter cell, ordered usb port and ide-to-sata interface, ide cables. I am studying now right usb stick while I was looking my chances for a softmod and maybe an HDD upgrade (I have many laying around). I read discussions in which members say "chip or death" but I am noob with solder - I fix almost everything all the time so I do not know if it is a bit of a complex, Japanese humility or just I am still a noob for real. Let's just say I am not confident enough to try TSOP or modchips on this beauty while just remove the clock capacitor is something I would feel totally ok doing. Looking around for component I stumbled upon this seller online that offers what stated in the title: a modded xbox 128mb ram, 2tb, fanless heatsink, softmodded for 200usd. I mean just the components are about 150usd. The guy clearly loves xbox. The fan-less heat-sink and the lack of a modchip are the only two things that really make me go like "nani?" especially the heat sink so I decided to ask here... I know that later models did not have one but is it safe? also how it is the price? should I just drop it and buy this one or should I softmod it by myself? In case can I swap the "shell" with the one I have or depends on the MB series? Thank you for reading this huge thing. edit: also can you suggest me a reliable and noob friendly step by step guide to softmod?

Having started with a soft mod, then TSPOP and finally installing an open xenium with the help of this great community I've decided to go to the next level. I've received the RAM below in the post today and just checking if this will be okay to use for upgrading to 128mb on one of my experement xbox's? I've also read somewhere that you can install one chip at a time and test it through the the one of the BIOS's that is specially made for this. Then I can continue to add more after each successful chip install!!!

On a TSOP v1.0 Xbox running x2 5035 bios, is there anything I have to to do to enable using the additional ram?

Is this possible? Preliminary searches on google show me a few things but I can't be sure so rather than searching high and low I though i'd ask you lot This is something I found btw, i've not even downloaded it yet so don't know if it contains a virus ( link to site, Sites clean ) https://www.h4ck.se/how-to-overclock-your-original-xbox-in-2019/

Selling these 128mb ram upgraded boards, 90 shipped in the us message me for pics and more info

Performed ram upgrade with 1 chip in area 4 near CPU using soldering iron using Ali express bought chips. X blast on spiderchip loaded first time but Ram test failed. Attempted reflow of chip using SMD hot air station. Modchip won't boot blue light on modchip illuminated. Xbox either goes on off 2 times and then flashes red and green or else when I disconnect modchip the Xbox logo displays with error 07 then flashes red green. Not sure if modchip isnt working now. Wondering is this normal behavior as I'm getting a normal Xbox boot up without modchip?

I wonder if it's a RAM compatibility issue or indicating definitely damaged RAM IC? Does anyone know the max temp the RAM ICs are rated for? I am working with a 1.4 revision board and an OpenXenium which should be booting straight to XBlast. I haven't seen much info anywhere about a solid green LED in the process of a RAM upgrade. However when I've got a chip installed it power cycles twice then goes to solid green LED but no video and the OpenXenium LED is yellow whereas if XBlast were to have booted the OpenXenium LED would be green. The board has default K4D263238D-QC50 and I have tested adding K4D263238M-QC50 (salvaged from a 1.0 revision board) and K4D263238F-QC50 (bought new on eBay but I used them). No additional RAM boots and works fine. Does the yellow LED on the OpenXenium indicate anything useful? What about the solid green LED on the console? Thanks

Hi Im in the process of upgrading my ram. The mod chip im using is an x2.6 with ind-bios. I have the xblastos xbe installed on my HDD. My thinking was that I could boot to my dashboard then launch the xblastos xbe to check each ram chip. However, upon powering on the xbox, it boots three times and the led's flash red and orange. My question is do I need the xblast bios flashed to my modchip for the xbox to boot during the upgrade or have I made a mistake during the installation? Im quite confident about my soldering. Checking under x60 magnification and lots of light tia

Hi All, This is my first foray into modding my original Xbox. I've identified the board as a 1.4 or a 1.5 (can't find out exactly which, but it has the Focus video chip). I can't find any information to help split between the two but it also looks like it's not that important either... Looks like I caught the clock capacitor just in time with some very minor markings on the top of it so that will be removed - it looks like it doesn't need fitting with a TSOP mod as this fixes the date? (RIP some of the best clock based cheats). I've got some K40263238D-QC50 RAM chips already in my system and looking to use it to run games off the HDD and emulators etc... From what I can find it looks like it's worthwhile upgrading this... other than this and the clock capacitor, are there any other recommended actions or mods whilst the mainboard is out? Do I need to do the TSOP mod first before the RAM upgrade? Cheers