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Hey guys, I recently turned on my OG Xbox after MANY years in storage (mostly temperature controlled storage) and I had no idea about the issues about the capacitors and so on. The DVD Drive and HDD seems to still be working fine with no issues. All of my old data was still there and I wanted to save the data to a memory card. I have learned that it is possible to save the data to a USB as well, but I think it might require a Softmod or something. The Fan still blows heat normally so it appears to be cooling the unit properly. Sadly I can't get the data from the drive at the moment. I tried to show plenty of pictures below as well. I have a few questions and concerns. Shortly after plugging in the unit I heard: -- 2 pops, but the console turned on and ran fine for a while (XB Dashboard and within a game). -- After a while my video went fuzzy\scrambled, reset and it started to FRAG during the game. (2 resets and Red\Green blinking) with no video). -- No smoke\smell or anything and I was able to open the tray to remove my disk. -- Same results after hard reset (FRAG). I did some research and learned more about the capacitor issue. I didn’t know any of this stuff before. I saw 2 busted capacitors from what I can see (those 2 pops). -- The Clock capacitor, which I eventually removed + cleaned the area (top and bottom) -- The PSU appears to have one leaking capacitor. Clock Capacitor: Battery Cap Leak - https://i.postimg.cc/jdfhZk4D/Fresh-leak.jpg Acid Corrosion - https://i.postimg.cc/BnGBycmM/Corroding-leak.jpg Battery Leak Cleaned - https://i.postimg.cc/9QtYjRSV/Cleaned.jpg Bottom of board Cleaned - https://i.postimg.cc/sfqcPR7F/Bottom-Cleaning.jpg Not knowing any better I let the clock “acid” sit there for a few days before cleaning because I was thinking about sending it in for repairs or something, but after reading more I decided to open it up and remove the Clock cap. It was pretty much corroded at this point and the leaked acid started to look horrible on my board. I cleaned it with 91% alcohol + Q-tips. For the corrosion I also scrapped some of the left over residue and kept wiping the entire area gently. The spill traveled further than I originally though. I checked the bottom of the board and saw a light cloudy color, but nothing too serious so I cleaned it up as well. Since the board was opened I decided to clean\wipe down the entire board from top and bottom. The board was in great condition, not too dirty\dusty, but since I had it opened….why not right? Power Supply Unit: PSU Cap Leak A - https://i.postimg.cc/Fs0jjkhc/PSU-Capacitor-lea-A.jpg PSU Cap Leak B - https://i.postimg.cc/447vxFMW/PSU-Capacitor-leak-B.jpg PSU Cap Leak C - https://i.postimg.cc/W1ngyRF1/PSU-Capacitor-leak-C.jpg PSU Cap Leak D - https://i.postimg.cc/8CzMQyMB/PSU-Capacitor-leak-D.jpg PSU Cap Leak E - https://i.postimg.cc/j27y3LNp/PSU-Capacitor-leak-E.jpg PSU Bottom A - https://i.postimg.cc/PfgWpQnT/PSU-Bottom-A.jpg PSU Bottom B - https://i.postimg.cc/P5h1Kfq7/PSU-Bottom-B.jpg Based on my research I have an Xbox v1.3 revision. The PSU capacitor leak looks fine on the bottom of the PSU and it appears that I have one of the “reinforced” PSUs that should not spark or cause a potential fire due the power connector\solder joint issue (constant insertion and removal of the power cable from what I’ve learned so far). Also, I did NOT wipe the PSU clean\wipe down top and bottom and honestly I didn’t want to touch it. Can someone tell me how long it takes for the PSU to drain and becomes much safer to handle? I know that PSUs (not just OG Xbox’s) can hold a charge for a very long time after being unplugged. I never touched it while cleaning the Clock capacitor leak. I let it (PSU) sit for roughly 10 days so I suppose it was safe to handle. I wasn't going to touch it, but I wanted to check the bottom of the PSU to see if there was any damage. I pretty much pulled it out and re-installed it by using the cabling and not even touching the damn thing. I have a Foxlink PSU, but I wanted to replace it with another one of the three brands. I believe they are interchangeable from what I’ve read. I noticed that the cable “color” was a bit different on the Delta, but the pinouts are the same I believe. I have the OG Xbox surge protector on the way just to be safe. Before investing into another PSU I was wondering what could be the harm in plugging in my current Foxlink with the leaking capacitor that already popped just to check and “see” if the console boots with no errors. If it boots to the Dashboard then I could turn it off and place the order for a replacement unit. Any potential issues with trying this before spending money on a PSU? Also I'd like to know an estimated amount of time that the PSU can hold a charge.

So I’m looking into adding a mod chip to my system as well as HDMI. I’ve come across this one but most of the reviews are a bit old(like a year or so). A lot of them seem to think that future updates would make this chip worth the money but I wanted to see if any of that ever actually came about. The features on their website seem to not have been updated in awhile so I have reservations. Big questions I have are what are the features it unlocks and has anyone done the mod who can speak to it. It seems pretty straight forward but I wanted to hear from some users. Also have they updated it to work with wireless controllers?

hi again, some month later than first try on xbox 1.6, i had try again on another one 1.3, soldering was ok and a new one chip openxenium boots regulary, after reassembly the console, try to boot and the same sequence loop appear also on this new console... solder pins was ok because first 3/5 boot was good now the console loop boot until stops with blinking green leds, screen black and chip led don't turn on, if i unistall chip boot start correctly, on screen i can see the animation (until start hdd boot that i havent). i'm so afraid because is the second one console that don't start. Please someone can help me?

i have an og xbox with a temperature lcd display similar to the one in the pictures below. can someone tell me what temps i should be seeing while gaming as well as while sitting idle at the XBMC dash my xbox is tsop and before i take it apart to replace the paste i wanna check my temps to see if a paste replace is even necessary

I have a 1.6, fully recapped and sporting an Aladdin XBlast (thanks snapper). I've done a lot of reading trying to figure out my setup and I think I've read too much, watched too many videos and confused myself. I have downloaded to Dragon4Gamers 4tb torrent, and then used HDD Raw Copy to transfer it onto the 8tb hard drive i have for my xbox. Is that all I need to do for that part? Where I am getting confused now is getting cerbios going. Do I use cerbios tool to do this? I tried playing with it before work this morning but I couldn't get it to load. I selected the folder I have for cerbios but it wouldn't let me do anything in the tool with it. Can anyone walk me through my next steps to get this going? Sorry for the NOOB questions, I'm trying to learn.

@Marty @Dtomcat18 I see the BOMs and Gerbers, but what do I do about the molex cables? Is there something I'm missing? @KaosEngineer @SS_Dave @Donnie-Burger @GoTeamScotch

Hello everyone, Sorry if this is in the wrong place but as the title says, I'm relatively new to the OG Xbox, it's an awesome console but seems to be pretty complex as well. I have a softmodded 1.6 Xbox. The first issue/question I have is when I turn the console on, it boots in 4:3 and SD even though it's connected with a Chimeric HDMI adapter, also in some guys like 007 Nightfire, it's pretty blurry almost like it's running in SD, is this an issue with 1.6 Xboxes? If that is an issue with 1.6 consoles, whether it's because of the Xcaliber encoder or whatever, what is the best revision to use on HDTV's with HDMI adapters like the Chimeric one or the Xedusa? Thanks to anyone who can help!

Hello together! (Sorry for my bad englisch i‘m from austria) A bit of a forword: My name is Markus and i'm from vienna in austria. I'm 23 years old. I grew up with late PS1, PS3, Xbox One/X and Series X. As an hobby i collected video game consoles (MS, Sony, Nintendo, Sega), as well as clean/service them. I realized that i didnt have the time to play them all, so i reduced the collection a bit. I have a special place in my heart for the OG Xbox, because i was always fascinated how the modding scene is still active and cares for the console. So i had the idea to „rebuild“ or „build“ my first console…..and i wanted to be an OG Xbox. My contact with that console, is restricted to having a stock 1.6 and later a softmodded (Splintercell-Softmod) one. But i sold them long ago. But after the last years 20th anniversary of the OG Xbox i saw that as a good time to make „the wish come true“. So here is how it goes: First i had to upgrade my tools, so i bought some tools to do the work properly. I solder/work on other things for a long time now, but for the future (to work on console/motherboards etc.) i bought a desoldering station, a smd hot-air soldering station and a new soldering iron. (A better soldering station is on the way.) I bought some tools like new iFixit kits, painter knifes, tweezer sets and much more: The case/the outer shell comes from a near mint/barley used Crystal Edition 1.6. (I killed the motherboard because of working with inproper tools ) The technical Basis is from a old 2004 1.4 Xbox. I bought it with a defect drive, just for the old motherboard revision. (I want to go for the older revision because its easier to mod, better mod support and for further upgrades not possible with the 1.6) As you see, on this board a few caps are balged and defect. (The badest ones are those around the CPU and the silver 1500uf ones.) I bought a 1.6 recap kit a long time ago and i realized around 80-90% of the caps are usable for the 1.4 aswell. So i recaped the motherboard. In the same time i installed, the pinheader for the LPC port and grounded D0. I also resoldered everything because i dont were satisified with the solder joints. I repasted the GPU/CPU with Arctic MX-4 and installed the headspreader and the brackets for it. The next step was to install the new Noctua 60mm Fan with the help of a 3D printed mounting bracket. Aswell as install the motherboard, psu etc. for a test. I serviced/cleaned the drive of the mint/ barley used 1.6 and installed a new belt. I installed the original HDD for the first test/bootup. I tested it and it boots right up (I was really relieved that it did )! Here are the next steps i will/want to do: Install a WD 500GB with 80 wire IDE cable and IDE/Sata Adapter. Install the custom dashboard/software etc. Install a custom made 20th anniversary edition Jewel on the Xbox and the controllers. (Will take some time until they arrive) Install 128MB of Ram (i dont really use it, but i want to do the installation out of interest. But this will also take some delivery time) "Install/Use" of Bitfunx Xbox2HDMI adapter Paint the button board (the one in the front) black/matte black Work to the metal shield? (Questions following) So up to my question....its about the metal shielding. I know its for signal noise reduction....but i saw a few clear case mods on that forum where they removed the complete shield. Is it possible without troubles/problems? If not, i thought about the idea to only remove the top shield and paint the lower one inside and out in black/matte black. (With sanding the paint of the grounding points.) Whats the better option? Or is it better to just paint the complete top/lower shield on the outside and leavet it that way....(with the complete shield in the console) Also what is your opinion of my first console motherboard work/ first console modding?

I just picked up an EMS Topgun II. Is anyone here familiar with it and able to give pointers? I’ve figured out how to work it and calibrate it. My biggest questions are how to do general navigation on Xbox and in CoinOps. Id also like suggestions on good light gun games in both. I know about House of the Dead 3 and Silent Scope. I also have the Chihiro Virtua Cop and Ghost Squad

Does anyone know how many caps on the 1.6 board are grounded? Also is the motherboard safe from ESD if it is bolt to the case?

Hello, OG Xbox noob here. I was wondering how expansions & DLC were handled on the OG Xbox since I don't have any on hand to mess around with. Stuff like the Halo 2 multiplayer map pack & the DOA 3 Booster disc. (those are the only two I know of that were released physically, if there are any others let me know.) was it all just copied from the disc to the hard drive? If so was there any form of copy protection? If you have a modded console with games ripped to the hard drive do expansions still work properly?

Alright folks, Of the numerous aladdin chips i've installed into 1.6 xboxes, i have installed the pin header with pin 4 removed, rebuilt lpc, connected bt->gnd on chip, cut the lframe trace at the xyclops chip and ignored installing the d0->gnd wire. This has always worked fine for me. Recently i have seen different and conflicting instructions on de-pinning the header. it was suggested to also remove pin 3 (lframe), 6 (5v) and 12 (gnd). I'm wondering what the benefit is and whether i need to start doing it this way? I'm presuming pin 6 has been left out so standby power isn't lighting the led, and pin 3 to disable lframe without cutting the trace? why remove the second gnd (pin 12) though? Just wondering what the consensus was on this, is this a better way to do it, is my usual way now incorrect?? Figured it was time to ask the experts! Cheers

Posting various questions about XBox here, because I had a really hard time browsing for the answers as the search results gave different answers not matching the matters : 1) Is it ok if I play it for more than 2 hours a day or is there any risk any damage ? I know the temp must be kept between certain values, but I wonder what's your daily usage and the condition of your xboxes just to know if I'm abusing of it or not. 2) can an XBOX360 run classic isos ? Should they be used in ISO-packed formats or can the same Hard Disk be used to load them with a (modded, maybe) Xbox360 ? 3) is there an emulator for PC (Windows) which can run XBox ISO's ? I've tried several ones but some of them have a really limited compatibility list, some others are just not fitted for my system (probably I'll update my hardware soon, so maybe a better PC is needed) 4) is there an emulator for XBox which can run PS1 games just like ePSXe does ? I mean... hardware graphic emulation (Pete's plugins and similar ones), save state ability, cheats, etc... just like ePSXe (great ePSXe player in here XD )

So I got a Halo Edition Xbox off of ebay to find that it only stays on for 20 minutes before shutting off, the power button does not function, naturally I thought of corrosion on the traces. Upon examining the underside of the board I found no visible corrosion, my question is, which traces do I need to jump in order to fix it? I'm a bit stumped, any help would be much appreciated.

hi so I did the following steps so far 1)softmodded my 1.0 via SC PH 2) I used rocky5's tools to null the eeprom then extract the nulled eeprom backup to my gdrive ok so now I have a sata hdd (Seagate 500GB) and a kingwin SATAtoIDE board knowing that it doesn't have a master/slave switch by best option is to use xboxhdm i have a question first is there a way to burn the iso to usb boot instead of by cd? and i want hdm2.0 that supports sata drives correct? thanks for your help

So there are some things I'm trying to figure out and having a hard time with, due to old, contradictory, or lack of info out there, and I'd greatly appreciate any thoughts. For reference, I have one each of v1.0 and v1.1, both with Xecuter 2.6 Lite chips. If caps require replacement (not the clock cap), are there any known to have special requirements for ripple or ESR? I'm thinking regular polymer electrolytic caps from Rubycon or Nichicon would be fine? Is there any reason to use FlashBIOS instead of XBlast? Assuming they're both stable, it looks like XBlast outright has more features. Are the FlashBIOS/XBlast web flashing interfaces reasonably safe to use? Without exploitable games or an Xbox/USB adapter, would the best way to TSOP flash a modchipped Xbox involve FTP backup of C&E, mod the backup with ndure, FTP it back to the Xbox, and turn off the modchip, then flash TSOP from the softmod dash? Can Xblast be flashed to TSOP safely? I've seen posts arguing both ways. If it can, could Xblast on TSOP be used to flash a modchip, if the chip is turned on after booting?

Hey guys, Due to the current situation in the world I have decided to finally install my mod chip. I do have a few questions regarding the install. I have read many guides and watched several videos on how to install these chip(aladdin xt plus2) and I rather not cut the trace on the motherboard. I found this video and I do like the idea of having the chip not light up while the xbox is off and not cutting the trace, Now that being said I know the internet is filled with people who find ways to do things differently but are not the right way to do them(I am not bad mouthing this gentleman) . Now my questions are 1- will installing the chip this way damage my xbox(short/Long term) 2-Is there any guides that you know of that are better(please link if possible) 3-is it possible to have the chip setup/installs so I can still boot into ms dash.(I read it is possible to set it up so a long power press will start the chip) I do not plan to use a lpc rebuild, I can just do it with wire. Thanks in advance

ok so i have a version 1.2 xbox that i bought years ago when i bought the xbox the seller told me it was tsop with the ind-bios and a 1tb sata hard drive mod. last week i rebuilt the hard drive using the true hexens 2019 disk i formatted all my partitions including both the F&G, and installed unleasedX as my main dash with XBMC4gamers as an app. heres my question i use a few .etm and .xbtf trainers for some games i play some people in a facebook group said that XBMC4GAMERS should be able to find and download the missing trainers i need how do i do this thanks for your time

Hi there, I'm new to the og XBox world I bought a XBox half year ago and took it apart. I found out that it has an "Aladdin 2" modchip and as far as I understand is also TSOP modded. It's a NTSC XBox v1.0. My questions for you are: Do I really need the modchip? As far as I understand the v1.0 has a big TSOP Chip, which can be splitted into banks, if I really need different bioses. So does this modchip anything different/special? And why do I need different Bioses? I just want to use this Xbox as (region free) Gaming console and maybe for XBMC. And is there a cheap (and easy) way to get digital output? I only got a VGA adapter with this XBox and it doesn't really work with my TV.

Hi, I'm new here. I had something to do with the xbox a very long time ago, I think in 2004. I was looking for a good site and I think I have a xbox and I wanted to change it with tsop. But there are questions one should take HeXen CD I can unfortunately not download my contributions are limited to 5 pieces per day. Excuse my bad english i always let it translate. With many things I always read : " Sorry, you aren't permitted to download this file. " greetings to all

I am using XBMC4GAMERS, an I used the artwork installer, which did install artwork for almost all of my games. But can I manually do it for the games/emus etc., that it missed? If so, how? And can I change the cover art associated with a particular game specifically? I have that I downloaded that seem to have their own unofficial art.

I have a TSOP v1.0 that I did a fresh install to a 2TB hard drive using HeXEn 2018. I then installed XBMC4gamers as my default dash. Now I am wanting to know what I need and what I can get rid of from the HeXEn install. Since I use XBMC4gamers I had two copies of dvd2xbox. I already deleted the one HeXEn installed, and I deleted xb partitioner, figuring I won’t need it again on this Xbox. What else don’t I need? HeXEn put a lot of stuff on the E partition. I’m wondering about the contents of the HexIns folder, HeXEn Tools folder, and the delete me folder. What is Config Magic for? And unrelated but, can anyone point me to where I can find a copy of the controller tester?

Hey guys, I’m new to the forum. Up til now I have only softmodded Xboxes, and it has been quite a while. I haven’t had an Xbox for the last couple years and I decided I miss them. So, I picked one up a couple days ago. It is v1.1 and have already softmodded it. I also picked up a 2TB HD, SATA adaptor, and 80 wire IDE cable. But I’m thinking that before putting the drive in, I’d like to try TSOP flashing it, then doing a clean install with HeXEn 2018. I have a small list of questions, hopefully I can get answered first. First, I read somewhere on here (I think under the HeXEn 2018 post), that some of the bios have the dvd check turned off by default. So this is going to sound dumb but, will it still boot from dvd (for HeXEn?) Second, I know I have a 1mb TSOP (mine is the ST.) Can someone recommend a bios? I don’t plan to use more than one, Third, I’ve heard that after you TSOP flash, you should remove the jumpers to avoid accidental damage. What are the thoughts and/or dangers on this? Wouldn’t the only potential problem be another flashing? My understanding is I need to leave the HeXEn disc in the drive before I begin. Then I would take out the board, solder the points on top and bottom of the board. Then put it back together and boot to HeXEn and flash it. Then when it’s done, I can turn it off, swap the drive, and boot to HeXEn again and do a clean install. Is there anything I missed, or anything else I need to leave on the hard drive? Like I said, I already did the softmod. And is there a way to check that the solder worked, and I have TSOP access, prior to flashing? Any help is appreciated.

After TSOP (unleashx and evox m8+ f and G) Bios,fitting a new hdd to my xbox I installed XBMC trough hexen2018. But there are a few questions I have considering the coöperation between these 2 dashes. UnleashX is my main dash and XBMC is installed as an app. Since I am new too the XBOX Scene, I don't know what I will use as my main Dash. There are a few things I can't work out. If I exit XBMC it switches to the standard MS dash, not the evolution dash. Is this something I can configure XBMC gives menu options for applications and emulators. But I don't see the applications I have installed on my unleash dashboard here. Is it just pointing at a different location or is there something wrong/ do they mean other type of applications. It would be nice that when I Rip a game, install an emulator they will appear both on unleashx and on XBMC.. If I push the eject button on my xbox, sometimes it reboots. Somebody knows something about that?

Hey Guys! I got my hands on a xbox 1.6 with Aladdin xt plus 2 Chip. I really like it, but somehow there must be some stuff screwd up. Im trying to use the IGR, but I can't get it to work. I tried all Hotkey combinations I found on the internet, but nothing works. That was the first thing I noticed. On the Xbox is xbmc. If im going to settings where the "about xbmc" option is, nothing happens. It doesn't show me anything. The Dude who sold me the xbox said, XBMC 3.3.3 is installed. XBMC itself show me on home screen, there is a newer version 3.5.3. I researched and found out aboashboard.ut Rockky5s XBMC4Gamers, which looks incredible. I did some more research to find out how to get it run. So I found out, on softmodded xbox you need to make Shortcuts. But on Hardmodded Xbox you can change the Boot directory. Well... so I downloaded, XBMC4Gamers folder from Rocky5s Github, put it on my E drive and in settings/Programs/General under Dashboard directory, I switched it from C:\xboxdash.xbe to E:\XBMC4gamers\deafault.xbe But nothing happens when I reboot. Still same old xbmc Dashboard. Also I noticed there is on the C Drive another Dashboard Called evoxdash.xbe. If I try to start from this nothing changes either. Im not sure if I do something wrong or if there's something wrong with the xbox. Maybe someone can help me out. Also I ask me the Question if there is any new BIOS for the Xbox that I should install. How do I know which installer CD I have to use? There are so many out there...