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i bought this xbox v1.6. it has a problem of turning on for few minutes than turns off, after that it keeps turning on for 2 seconds and than off. i opened up the xbox and immediately saw that the power supply was already worked on and whoever did it, did a very ugly job. the power supply is Delta DPSN-96DP. As seen in picture 1 the big capacitor was changed to 400v solder with wires just lying there, the glue was supposed to hold it but it was only stuck on the capacitor and not on the metal and plastic. the below 2 green caps were changed to with higher voltage. both the big and green caps were old used caps. i changed few caps. in picture 2 the caps marked green are what i changed with new and correct caps. the resistor marked red were changed or something else because their underside show sign of different solder than the original ones on board. are these resistors right? in picture 3 the glue on left looks cut off, is there supposed to be different component here or the one here is right? in picture 4 the area circled red, are these capacitors or resistor? they were either changed or lifted than put back with ugly fat soldering. anyway are these right? lastly the mainboard picture these 5 capacitor under cpu/gpu value is 3300uf 16v while online search says its 3300uf 6.3v, are they replaced too? my problem is xbox turning off after few minutes. i tested 500gb desktop hdd, 1tb laptop hdd and without hdd. 500gb desktop hdd turns on for few minutes than off by itself, after that it turns on for 2 seconds and off. have to give it rest for hours to turn it on again for few minutes and than turns off by itself again. 1tb laptop hdd takes very few tries and most of time with first try it turns on and off by itself but stays on for more minutes the 500gb desktop hdd. without hdd always turns on first try and stays on for 10-20 minutes and off by itself. So its just power supply or the main board caps problem too.
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Hi all I recently got a Xbox 1.0 for repair and it had a Minebea power supply in it. The power supply emits a high pitched noise when the power button is pressed but has no other signs of life. Besides replacing the fuse near the outlet is there another place I need to look for a fuse to fix it? Thanks in advance
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I was trying to boot up my dad's old Xbox, and hooked up the power cable to see if it would turn on. It has one of those old replacement cables that were sent out to prevent fires, the ones with a red RESET button and a yellow TEST button. Whenever I plug the Xbox into a live outlet and press the RESET button, the light blinks and the button pops back up, seemingly no longer powering the Xbox. I asked on the Metal Arms: Glitch in the System Discord server, and someone said that it was likely not a cable issue, but rather the "solder joints" needing to be reflowed. I looked up the process and it seems to be a little too much for me to do on my own, so I was wondering if anyone here thinks this is the issue, and also if there's some well-trusted place I could send it to be repaired.
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Is this power supply multivolt? A friend gave me this power supply and it worked on a 220v outlet despite it saying 100-127v. This power supply doesn't look like it's been modded. I have other power supplies of the same model and I've been using a 110v to 220v transformer with them.
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Hello everyone, I finished modding my Xbox about 2 months ago and honestly haven’t had the time to sit down and play it. This weekend finally I could and noticed that when I started using it this high pitched coil whine type of noise started emitting from the right side of the console. Link here for a video where you can hear it - https://imgur.com/gallery/xbox-high-pitched-noise-uhg7cir . As I’m writing this it has went away and came back twice. The console is a 1.0 with the Minebea 1.0 original psu. I cleaned everything and the psu looked fine when I had everything out a few months ago. Please note that I have replaced my fans with a noctua on the GPU and nexus on the case, and a new 1tb hard drive so I don’t think it’s the normal noise makers that are making that noise. Any testing I should do to help narrow this down? Console works great though and runs cool. -
I'm having an unlucky day, I have a 1.6 Xbox that's barely been used since new, a crystal box, It's just had a softmod on it although I'd just ordered a mod chip that I could install on it but it hasn't arrived yet. Either way, I went to fire it up today and completely dead, press eject or power and nothing, doesn't try to come on at all as if there is no power going to it. I fired it up last week when I pulled it out of storage and it worked fine. So, it's looking like potentially the power suplly has failed. In my collection of goodies I found an Xbox power supply, it's brand new never used in box. Here are some photos of it. It has both types of power connector. A switch to go between 120 and 240 volts, I'd need the 240. Do you think this would be fine to use on a 1.6 XBox for an Australian 240v Xbox?
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After cable recall, Xbox's still frying The fix isn't in By Andrew Orlowski, 19 Mar 2005 (TheRegister) 14 million games console owners are still at risk of waking up to find their Xbox has become an ex-box. For when Microsoft issued a safety advisory for Xbox customers last month, it failed to address the underlying problem. After several reports of consoles catching fire, Microsoft urged 14 million console owners to send in their old power leads for a replacement. But hardware experts point out that the power cable was never at root of the problem: it simply made the existing problem worse. The meltdown, and subsequent fire risk was actually caused by wear and tear on the power supply used in early models of the Xbox. The replacement cable featured a trip, which cut down the risk of your house catching fire, but left unfortunate gamers with a fried console. The cord has an interrupter switch that acts like a conventional fuse, tripping power to the unit. Microsoft's decision to limit its liabilities, rather than address the root of the problem, has led to a particularly bizarre situation. Customers who don't need to participate in the program are being shipped an identical cable to the one they've got. Microsoft last month advised console owners to unplug the Xbox from the mains, and claimed the risk is only 1 in 10,000. Ryan, an Xbox modder in Northern California who has disassembled the console, confirms that solder on two prongs holding the Foxlink power supply in place wear out. The problem affects versions 1.0 and 1.1 of the power supply. The design flaw was fixed in subsequent power supplies. I will pop open my case when I can, I know i have a Foxlink PSU
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Ive had a good sort out, I have 3 working tsop'd boards f/s, a 1.0 (with gpu fan and controller daughterboard), the other 2 are 1.2 and 1.4 (i think!), all have cerbios flashed to them, £25 ea plus post ppg. Other bits available on request, got 5 decent green jewels, loads of fans, case screws, controller ports, drive cables, front power boards, unlocked stock hard drives, basically anything from the original xbox apart from anything dvd drive or casing related (i do have a couple of plastic bases tho). also have a 1.6 board that has an Aladdin chip fitted, works fine but cant ftp to it for some reason -
Hey everyone, I have had this dead console for quite a few months. It had been a couple of years since I had played on it. One day, I plugged it in and smoke started coming out of it. There were 3 bulging capacitors that I have replaced, none of them leaked. The PSU works fine, as I have tried it with my other console. However, it still doesn't want to turn on. You plug the console in and press the power button but get no signs of life. No sound, noises, lights.. Nothing. I was hoping if you guys could help me to try to figure out what's going on. I took as many pictures as possible, but if you need anything in specific, let me know. I am putting them in Google Drive since I can't really upload more than 4 MB. HERE they are.
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Hello! I hope someone is still alive here!! Well that's it, is there currently an adapter to replace the power supply of an Xbox version 1.6? Something like the AT2XBOX project launched -
Does anyone know what the power draw on the fans are I've seen both .21 and .24A.
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As the title says. I have a console that sometime experiences a random power down. I have left the console running for ages on its own and the power down has not happened, then I have been just flicking around in PrometheOS or XBMC4Gamers for a few moments and the console has shut down. This console has been recapped and has no issues booting up at all. However the controller I have been using has a split in the cable right at the top where it joins the cable relief before going into the controller itself. Could this cause a short that causes the console to power down. I am running Cerbios which has a button combo to power down the console and wondered if it could this that is triggering. Pic of cable split for reference... If its not this what else could it be?? I'm stumped lol EDIT - So I have narrowed it down. Its nothing to do with the controller, it only seems to happen with in either the PrometheOS dash OR XBMC4Gamers. It can happen in seconds or it can happen after 15 mins, its totally random. As a test I left the console running with a game playing for 2 hours and no power down. Leaving it on either dash will eventually power down. I have checked and XBMC shutdown timer is OFF. -
So I got a mobo that powers on immediately when it’s plugged in and the power button does nothing. When you use the eject button it turns on and off. So unfortunately it does not function as an eject button in the slightest.
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Why is it the ram and cpu upgrades on the original xbox are done. But those that do fail to upgrade the next most vital component in your console pcs. Upgrade you power supplies to a larger one to give the system better response time and a deeper well of wattage to pull from. Put an atx in there that has 2 12 v rails and make sure that board has all the power running to it efficiently a 80 or 90 % percent efficient 400 or 500 or 300 watt power supply will give you so many more options for cooling and give that mainboard all the power it needs to function better than ever. Also put low esr capacitors on the board or aluminum polymer capacitors that run at a lower frequenzy and run cooler for you system to truly modernize it. I see the cpu upgrade the ram upgrade, the firmware upgrade, the cosmetic upgrades, but no power upgrades, no capacitor component upgrades. Why are you people not doing this with your retro game consoles. Seriously why has no xbox with the formentioned upgrades that are common talked about not complimented with a larger power supply. And don't give me that crap about the system only uses so much power blah blah blah. That isn't true. A more efficient power supply and low esr capacitors will do wonders for you system. I did a power supply upgrade for the playstation 2 and i can tell you it works better than ever and i can put a 12v fan in it and still give the main board all the power it could ever need with a 180 watt imac power supply from an apple imac A1224 i have 3 for sale on ebay see them there nicely painted and perform better and have a big boy pc grounded 3 pin 110v-250v ac in plug. Also line filters Emi filters, get them there amazing. -
I purchased a broken no power Xbox (v1.3) at a game store recently, and decided to take a look and see what the issue was. When I got the Xbox, it did not respond to being plugged in or pushing the power button. I've heard that the clock capacitor is an issue with the Xbox, and noticed that there was corrosion by it. It took me a while to take the capacitor off, almost like it was fused to the board. I was able to eventually get it out, but I ended up breaking off the cathode. (I am relatively new to repairing electronics and although I feel confident soldering, my desoldering skills need some work :-P) It seems like the corrosion is much worse than I initially thought. I am aware that the clock capacitor alone does not cause a no power issue, but rather it corroding the traces around it. What should my next steps be for the repair? Should I take a look at the A trace, or write off the console? Thank you in advance for any help/advice!
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This thread will demonstrate how the xbox jewel can be removed, and in a pair of follow-up posts how a hole for it can be made on the xbox cover, all in a very low-tech manner. I'm not confident enough to call these tutorials, but they may be helpful. First: removing the jewel. I grab a couple feet of dental floss and stuff it under the edge of the jewel with a card or what have you. Then I dribble some rubbing alcohol down there, because in my experience rubbing alcohol acts as a mild solvent on the adhesive pad thingy underneath. Whatever helps. By the way it was another modder, not me, who invented the floss method. I start flossing while keeping the arms of the floss in that letter U shape. I'm going to add more alcohol in a minute and re-position the floss at the other side of the jewel then continue working it. After a while the floss approaches the middle of the jewel and it starts to bind, that's when I add some mineral oil to lubricate everything. Pretty much any type of oil will do though. The whole mess starts to look like this... Getting farther in, the floss wants to bind again despite the oil. I don't want it to snap. I lift one of its arms to a 90 degree angle and slowly work the floss back into action. Eventually the jewel is off. This took maybe 10 minutes.
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Got a dead XBOX 1.6 for cheap, it was super clean but had been previously opened so I was a little wary of what I'd find inside. Power supply fuse was missing and the attached pic is the soldering butcher job i found. I'm not familiar with 1.6 PSUs, and couldn't find any quality pics of one online to see what the layout is supposed to be, so i'm wondering if there is any saving this? Don't know what continuity (if any) is supposed to exist between the 3 points there. The bottom round hole is where the fuse is supposed to attach. Worried that the damage/solder spill shorted or created unwanted continuity but can't tell since I don't know how it was originally. The brown lines are what appears to be scratches as if someone tried to scratch away solder to keep the points separated? I dunno. If it is fixable, was wondering what could have caused the fuse to blow that necessitated the repair attempt, as in are there any usual suspects I should look/test for on the Power supply? The rest of the Power supply looks fine. The mobo had some bad caps so i went ahead and replaced the 5 usual ones there but other than that no visible defects on either the mobo or power supply. Any help or thoughts on power supply layout and downstream test/checks would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
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Hello everyone. I have not done anything with my original Xbox 1.6b since I softmodded it over 15 years ago, and recently it stopped powering on. I've tried googling and researching, but the loss of Sickmods (and others that I probably don't know about) has made it difficult to find information. Attempts So far: Eject or power button does nothing. Replaced the 5 main caps that are known to leak (I'm pretty sure I did this 10 years ago as well, but had parts on hand so did it anyways) I have replaced the transistor near the clock cap (q7c2) I'm pretty sure its the power supply itself, (Its the Samsung Tuscany one) so I have been trying to modify an ATX supply to use to test. On the earlier versions of the XBox there are lots of information and adaptors, but not the 1.6b. The pinouts I have found for the 1.6 xbox (See below) show it needing 4 lines on 5Vsb, and only one standard 5V line: I'm pretty sure this is backwards, and it should be 1 standby line and 4 regular, can someone with more experience confirm? The other question is regarding the N64Freak adaptor board diagram: From what I have read the 1.6 uses 5Vsb instead of 3.3Vsb, can I omit the LM3490, the 33uf cap, and the link to the ground plane like so: Thank you in advance for any help you are able to provide, and if you have any good tips for a guy who is 15 years out of the scene, let me know.
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Hello, good morning. I thought in an interesting feature for XBMC4Gamers and it is the following: - As you know if we have the fullset on the HDD, this is a lot of games (nearly 400). I realized that every time that XBMC4Gamers loads, it just selects by default the first game. Could it be possible to add an option in XBMC4Gamers to just "select by default the last executed element on XBMC4Gamers startup"? Thanks! -
can I use bridge of power supply outside classic xbox 1.6 . how can I use it with jamma .
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Cleaning the house and getting ready to move. Came across miscellaneous OG xbox items as pictured. I used to be into the consoles quite a bit a few years ago, especially for the XBMC capability, but now I don't even have a console. The drives and power supplies were spares, because even back in the day the hardware wasn't 100% bullet proof. I believe they work, but have no way of knowing for sure since I don't have a console. Trying to sell this so it ships out all in one box. I can also sell thru my ebay account which is: and has a 100% rating. https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?item=276086163390&rt=nc&_trksid=p4429486.m3561.l161211&_ssn=maerickson Edit: Should have mentioned that the caps on the power supplies are all flat. -
Edited by moderator: Originally posted in similar thread "Xbox 1.1 dead no power". Moved @nerdbombing's post to a new topic thread. I'm having a similar issue with a 1.6 I took the box completely apart to put it into another shell. The box had worked before, no issues, fully softmodded with an upgraded HDD. I wast just trying to put it into a nicer shell as the one it was in had a cracked corner. After putting it into the new shell, nothing turns on. I thought it may have been the front switch or PSU but I replaced both with known good ones. It simply doesn't react to the power buttons, nothing comes on, no lights, and my visual inspection didn't find anything. What's a good place to start diagnosis from here? (Ebay#2)
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How hard would it be to power an Xbox via USB-C? There is a solution for Dreamcast already: https://retrosix.co.uk/SEGA-Dreamcast-CleanPower-USB-C-Power-Mod-p558766840 Looks like it doesn't supply enough 5V to work with the Xbox, but how hard would something like this be to create for Xbox?
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Hello i'm looking for wiring diagram of power board Version 1.1 year 2002- 220 volt Classic xbox, help me! Please
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First press of the power button turns power on for about one second. As soon as it starts to spin down if I press the power button again it boots normally. Any ideas what could be wrong and what I should try to do to fix it? Thanks!
Board Life Status
Board startup date: April 23, 2017 12:45:48