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About Me

  1. Is this power supply multivolt? A friend gave me this power supply and it worked on a 220v outlet despite it saying 100-127v. This power supply doesn't look like it's been modded. I have other power supplies of the same model and I've been using a 110v to 220v transformer with them.
  2. I purchased a broken no power Xbox (v1.3) at a game store recently, and decided to take a look and see what the issue was. When I got the Xbox, it did not respond to being plugged in or pushing the power button. I've heard that the clock capacitor is an issue with the Xbox, and noticed that there was corrosion by it. It took me a while to take the capacitor off, almost like it was fused to the board. I was able to eventually get it out, but I ended up breaking off the cathode. (I am relatively new to repairing electronics and although I feel confident soldering, my desoldering skills need some work :-P) It seems like the corrosion is much worse than I initially thought. I am aware that the clock capacitor alone does not cause a no power issue, but rather it corroding the traces around it. What should my next steps be for the repair? Should I take a look at the A trace, or write off the console? Thank you in advance for any help/advice!
  3. This thread will demonstrate how the xbox jewel can be removed, and in a pair of follow-up posts how a hole for it can be made on the xbox cover, all in a very low-tech manner. I'm not confident enough to call these tutorials, but they may be helpful. First: removing the jewel. I grab a couple feet of dental floss and stuff it under the edge of the jewel with a card or what have you. Then I dribble some rubbing alcohol down there, because in my experience rubbing alcohol acts as a mild solvent on the adhesive pad thingy underneath. Whatever helps. By the way it was another modder, not me, who invented the floss method. I start flossing while keeping the arms of the floss in that letter U shape. I'm going to add more alcohol in a minute and re-position the floss at the other side of the jewel then continue working it. After a while the floss approaches the middle of the jewel and it starts to bind, that's when I add some mineral oil to lubricate everything. Pretty much any type of oil will do though. The whole mess starts to look like this... Getting farther in, the floss wants to bind again despite the oil. I don't want it to snap. I lift one of its arms to a 90 degree angle and slowly work the floss back into action. Eventually the jewel is off. This took maybe 10 minutes.
  4. Got a dead XBOX 1.6 for cheap, it was super clean but had been previously opened so I was a little wary of what I'd find inside. Power supply fuse was missing and the attached pic is the soldering butcher job i found. I'm not familiar with 1.6 PSUs, and couldn't find any quality pics of one online to see what the layout is supposed to be, so i'm wondering if there is any saving this? Don't know what continuity (if any) is supposed to exist between the 3 points there. The bottom round hole is where the fuse is supposed to attach. Worried that the damage/solder spill shorted or created unwanted continuity but can't tell since I don't know how it was originally. The brown lines are what appears to be scratches as if someone tried to scratch away solder to keep the points separated? I dunno. If it is fixable, was wondering what could have caused the fuse to blow that necessitated the repair attempt, as in are there any usual suspects I should look/test for on the Power supply? The rest of the Power supply looks fine. The mobo had some bad caps so i went ahead and replaced the 5 usual ones there but other than that no visible defects on either the mobo or power supply. Any help or thoughts on power supply layout and downstream test/checks would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
  5. Hello everyone. I have not done anything with my original Xbox 1.6b since I softmodded it over 15 years ago, and recently it stopped powering on. I've tried googling and researching, but the loss of Sickmods (and others that I probably don't know about) has made it difficult to find information. Attempts So far: Eject or power button does nothing. Replaced the 5 main caps that are known to leak (I'm pretty sure I did this 10 years ago as well, but had parts on hand so did it anyways) I have replaced the transistor near the clock cap (q7c2) I'm pretty sure its the power supply itself, (Its the Samsung Tuscany one) so I have been trying to modify an ATX supply to use to test. On the earlier versions of the XBox there are lots of information and adaptors, but not the 1.6b. The pinouts I have found for the 1.6 xbox (See below) show it needing 4 lines on 5Vsb, and only one standard 5V line: I'm pretty sure this is backwards, and it should be 1 standby line and 4 regular, can someone with more experience confirm? The other question is regarding the N64Freak adaptor board diagram: From what I have read the 1.6 uses 5Vsb instead of 3.3Vsb, can I omit the LM3490, the 33uf cap, and the link to the ground plane like so: Thank you in advance for any help you are able to provide, and if you have any good tips for a guy who is 15 years out of the scene, let me know.
  6. Hello, good morning. I thought in an interesting feature for XBMC4Gamers and it is the following: - As you know if we have the fullset on the HDD, this is a lot of games (nearly 400). I realized that every time that XBMC4Gamers loads, it just selects by default the first game. Could it be possible to add an option in XBMC4Gamers to just "select by default the last executed element on XBMC4Gamers startup"? Thanks!
  7. can I use bridge of power supply outside classic xbox 1.6 . how can I use it with jamma .
  8. Cleaning the house and getting ready to move. Came across miscellaneous OG xbox items as pictured. I used to be into the consoles quite a bit a few years ago, especially for the XBMC capability, but now I don't even have a console. The drives and power supplies were spares, because even back in the day the hardware wasn't 100% bullet proof. I believe they work, but have no way of knowing for sure since I don't have a console. Trying to sell this so it ships out all in one box. I can also sell thru my ebay account which is: and has a 100% rating. https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?item=276086163390&rt=nc&_trksid=p4429486.m3561.l161211&_ssn=maerickson Edit: Should have mentioned that the caps on the power supplies are all flat.
  9. Edited by moderator: Originally posted in similar thread "Xbox 1.1 dead no power". Moved @nerdbombing's post to a new topic thread. I'm having a similar issue with a 1.6 I took the box completely apart to put it into another shell. The box had worked before, no issues, fully softmodded with an upgraded HDD. I wast just trying to put it into a nicer shell as the one it was in had a cracked corner. After putting it into the new shell, nothing turns on. I thought it may have been the front switch or PSU but I replaced both with known good ones. It simply doesn't react to the power buttons, nothing comes on, no lights, and my visual inspection didn't find anything. What's a good place to start diagnosis from here? (Ebay#2)
  10. How hard would it be to power an Xbox via USB-C? There is a solution for Dreamcast already: https://retrosix.co.uk/SEGA-Dreamcast-CleanPower-USB-C-Power-Mod-p558766840 Looks like it doesn't supply enough 5V to work with the Xbox, but how hard would something like this be to create for Xbox?
  11. Hello i'm looking for wiring diagram of power board Version 1.1 year 2002- 220 volt Classic xbox, help me! Please
  12. First press of the power button turns power on for about one second. As soon as it starts to spin down if I press the power button again it boots normally. Any ideas what could be wrong and what I should try to do to fix it? Thanks!
  13. This Xbox had one issue of being placed in a different case and shorting. I replaced the faulty 2T transistor and all was working. Voltages were normal on all rails. I then was getting glitchy video on composite cable so I changed the large caps on the board and the video issue went away. It powered on and work fine all day. Even would power cycle multiple times without issue and run stable with any game I threw at it or just stay running for hours. The next day it would not power on at all. I changed the two large output caps on the PSU and reseated the modchip and it booted and ran perfectly so I played Doom3 for a few hours without issue. Shutdown normally. Next day it would not power on again.
  14. Has anyone run across a decent aftermarket power cable? All of the cables I’ve seen in the last few years have seemed like they use way too small a gauge of wire, don’t seem to have nearly enough insulation on them, and generally feel extremely flimsy. Just curious if anyone has found one that doesn’t seem like it might split in half or burst in to flames. Lol. Also if you have used any of the aforementioned how did they perform long term?
  15. I live in the USA and need a few PAL power supplies for any model besides 1.6, I'd take 1 but would buy up to 3 if you have them available. Let me know if you can help!
  16. I just picked up a 1.6 Xbox and it does not turn on. Whenever I hit the power button there is 3.3V, 5V and 12V all present for about 1 second then nothing. All standby voltages are good too. Idk whats wrong.
  17. I think this is just a "replace the power supply" issue (DPSN-96DP), but I'd appreciate anyone's insight if they have advice: (Video of issue) https://imgur.com/INZWEUK Summary -- push power, no LED ring lights, X3 mod chip front indicator panel briefly lights up, then turns off. Eject button has same result. Case fan briefly twitches when power/eject is pressed. Continuously holding the power button 'on' keeps the lights on the X3 front panel lit, and the hard drive can be heard spinning up, but then nothing appears and it powers back off after release. Removed the motherboard, examined the traces to see if there was any rot -- looks really, really clean, nothing was visible after several minutes of inspecting. (Shot of a section of board) https://imgur.com/HIuVLGm CPU capacitors look a little sussy and puffed, I should replace, but nothing leaking onto the board. Clock capacitor looks good, too, but I think I should replace that as well. (CPU caps) https://imgur.com/NR7H58m (Clock cap) https://imgur.com/pFDgFPA Probably will get capacitors from Console5, I have enjoyed ordering from them before. Should I just replace the power supply? Is that what this issue looks like? https://imgur.com/FVbfgB6 (Delta power supply) Thanks anyone that feels like replying! This is my daily driver, I'd like to have it back!
  18. can anyone tell me if you can swap the power supplys without any fussing about just stright from one to another.
  19. I have an Xbox with an Xecuter 3, X3CP, and the daughterboards for the controller port and front panel PCB, booting from the chip requires pressing the eject button but I have a couple of problems with this: - Booting with the eject button causes Cerbios to boot into safemode and not display any boot animation - Opening the disc tray each start up puts unnecessary wear on it, that's something I'd like to avoid I hardly have any experience with the X3, is there a way to enable the chip no matter what button powers the console on, or a way to switch which button enables it? I'd prefer to keep the ability to boot to the backup image
  20. I have a 1.6 Xbox with Xenium 24k modchip. System worked fine but feeding buttons prior to install. Lpc rebuild and added pin header and Xbox boots with chip great. Eject button takes me to Xenium is and power button boots into my dashboard (Xbmc4gamers). The issue I’m having, is that I can’t use the power or eject after in turn it on. Don’t think it’s a trace issue due to it being a 1.6 and not having the issue prior to the chip. Any help would be awesome
  21. I have a v1.4 that doesn't seem to be getting power at all, zero response from power/eject so I've tried a bunch of stuff: - Replaced 3x 3300uF 6.3V, 3x 1500uF 6.3V, and 2x 3300uF 10V caps, all the big ones - Checked continuity on those 4 lines that usually get rotted, 3 were good, rebuilt 1 and confirmed continuity with the top of the board - Reflowed the 20 pin ATX header - Tested with 2 known good PSUs - Tested with 2 known good front panel PCBs I haven't seen this behavior (or lack of) before and had it not be bad caps, but if there's something to be tried short of an entire recap, I'm unaware of what that would be. Anyone have any ideas?
  22. I recently bought a few 1.0 consoles with "no power" issues, 2 of them have this same 47K resistor marked R902 (measured from a good psu) and surrounding area burned, both resistors are basically ash. I have a couple of questions, is this a common issue with this model psu, is replacing these burnt components likely to save these things, or is the issue probably caused by something else that sent too much power through the resistor, such as the large transistor in front of it? Here's a pic of what it's supposed to look like:
  23. Hello, i have this power Board 1.1 Version 220 volt with burned parts.. I like to know the value of resistor, can someone help me? Thanks
  24. Hi all, Brand new to the OG XBox scene I just imported myself a JP NTSC unit for that 60hz goodness. Being in Australia means not wanting to buy locally due to being a PAL 50hz territory. Can anyone point me in the right direction to a compatible 240V power supply for this unit? Thanks in advance! Edit: Just doing some reading, it seems the done thing is buying a second local xbox of the same revision / has the same headers, and swapping the PSU into my imported unit. Is that about right?
  25. Hello all! A few months back a got my first OG Xbox, but the DVD drive was broken. I ended up buying a second Xbox for parts with a working drive and swapped them out (I ended up getting lucky, it was a Samsung drive). So a couple days ago I pulled out my spare Xbox and found the only problem with it was the power button not turning the console on/off. The console would power on when plugged in, which looking into this online told me its a common problem. So I ended borrowing the working drive and softmodding it. Everything was going perfectly until I was playing some snes9x and the console was smoking! Turns out the clock capicitor was leaking on the motherboard and melting. I knew about the clock capicitor issues, but stupid me thought I'd just do it later. So I cleaned up the mess and removed the capicitor, but it left some irreversible damage. Now the console will boot up and work fine for 5 minutes before suddenly turning off. I inspected the motherboard and noticed it had some corrosion on the "A Line" (Source: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.ogxbox.com/forums/index.php%3F/topic/29-how-to-fix-trace-corrosion/&ved=2ahUKEwjl4szT1bn7AhXbjokEHQddBoEQFnoECA4QAQ&usg=AOvVaw1PMDAuq47ME_GX_0VJ58Ll). I'm not sure if the clock capicitor melt down has something to do with this new issue (most likely do does) or if the corrosion has gotten worse from the whole incident. I'm posting pictures below. I think the best method moving forward would be to try and solder in a wire workaround (From source above). I need some advice, whats the best move moving forward? I want to save this Xbox if I can.

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Board startup date: April 23, 2017 12:45:48
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