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  1. Anyone know if there's a way to use ogx360 to power on/off the Xbox using this? Would be a really nice quality of life upgrade to the OG
  2. I have several boards (1.0, 1.1 & 1.4) that will not power up with a known good power supply. Capacitors all look good and there are no visible signs of damage or component failure anywhere. Are there typical failure points that I should check? Would it be worth it to replace the power caps anyway? Thanks for any help. I hate to ditch these boards or just use them for parts.
  3. Hey guys, this week I've had two xboxs that were untouched seals still intact and clock cap leaking everywhere just starting cleaning when i noticed both had the same issue, the two screws on the hard drive caddy that screw the hd to the caddy have unscrewed with vibrations from the drive I would guess as they are both the same side right looking at the front of the xbox,( if the hd spun up the other way probably be the other two) and ended up in the power supply. May be worth a drop of lock tight or a shake proof washer for anybody still using one. the screw is nestled in between the the heat sinks next to the transformer. Ted
  4. Hi all, I recently came across a 1.4 xbox that would not power on, and after replacing the power supply with one from a working 1.4 console it came to life. i checked the fuse for continuity and it was blown, so i replaced it and now this piece blew up (see picture) and instantly blew the fuse again. i was wondering if anyone knows where i can get a replacement of the piece that exploded, cheers.
  5. I made a post a few weeks back about getting a 1.6 with a HDD that immediately died after booting. Couldn’t get eeprom in time. Looks like someone was trying to tinker around and really screwed some things up. Without the wires and chip, the Xbox will boot into HDD failure error which I’m fully aware of. I tried getting two Aladdin chips fitted and neither one of them will boot. They both flash green light for a second and then power off. One chip shows red light and the other shows yellow. I’ve reflowed solder points countless times and still the same result. I’ve tried D0 grounded to board and the chip and other various places I’ve seen and read about, but nothing works. As you can see from the board, there have been several trace lifts, but from what I’ve seen I have everything linked up properly accordingly to the lifted traces. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I do not want to keep the chip inside so I have not cut the L-Frame. I just want to pull the eeprom and build a replacement drive. These Aladdin chips on 1.6 are proving to be a real pain in the ass.
  6. Hi all, so I've just done a really dumb/bad thing and was hoping to get some advice please... Putting a different HD into my modded box, the X3 chip wasn't booting (it sometimes doesn't sit right and has to be wiggled) and stupidly, without thinking, I tried moving the disc drive unit on top of it, while the unit was still plugged in... One loud pop, a flash on the power board and a blown trip switch in my flat later: the Xbox is now dead... :-( So my question is: am I screwed? Or can I swap out the power supply board for a replacement one? I have 2 spare working Xboxes in the cupboard - so could I just replace the whole power supply board? Or is that gonna be "way too easy"... (I'm guessing they were a few different types of power supply boards back in the day: the attached photo is the one in my modded box...)
  7. Looking to purchase power button for og Xbox. Would like power button with blue LEDs. If anyone has one available please message me. Thanks
  8. Hey everyone, I'm new here. I have two OG Xboxes. The first I bought pre-softmodded and which cannot be turned off by the power button, I gather because a trace was eroded; I did take out the clock cap and cleaned it up, however. And the second I softmodded myself as a project because a guy was giving it away for $5. This one doesn't have power/tray eject button problems, however, it did start to make a buzz (the HDD?) or loud fan noise before this happened, but I'm not sure if that's normal for this model. Yesterday it died on me as I was playing a game, for the first time. I took it off power and gave it a rest and then tried again, and it died after a few seconds. Now it doesn't turn on at all. I did some research and given that this one never seemed to have leaked capacitor fluid, and given the caps all over are fine, no swelling, I think it must be the power supply. I thought I would check with you guys first, as I am not very computer savvy and if all I have to do is solder these, I'm not sure I could do it myself tbh, or if it would be cheaper to just hire someone who already has the tools and know how. But I need to know if these are indeed the culprit.
  9. Searched a good bit on the general symptoms of power button failure for Xbox original but most lead back to trace corrosion issues. The case here is a very small person got access to my original xbox and spent an unknown amount of time mashing the power button. The next time I went to turn her on, the power button flashed for a brief second and hard drive spun as well but then died. A few more attempts and now nothing happens. The switch still clicks audibly for what thats worth but no sounds that power is getting to anything and no light. I've opened it up to start looking at possible source of damage but have not come up with anything. Looking for any suggestions or guidance on where and what to probe. Thanks.
  10. have some weird Power issues, researched previous posts but didn't want to hijack their threads and not sure if they were the same situation anyway. Here's the current situation: Bought console off ebay with acknowledgement that power button did not work and that it powered on by simply plugging in or hitting the eject button...(sounds like classic trace rot). Clock cap was removed by seller and area cleaned, he also replaced thermal paste on CPU/GPU and verified that the console worked and played games. I have not verified trace damage extent yet but he said there was a little. The console appears to have other things going on other than trace rot and I wanted to see if there was something else I could test on the top of the mb based on the below current working status before I get to trace rot stuff. When I got it, after a couple of power cycles where it remained powered on plugging it in, it now no longer powers on simply by plugging in, instead it only does by hitting eject button, and when that occurs it only stays powered on for about a second. Stby voltage checks good at 3.3V and POWON just gets to 3.3V before it powers off. POWOK doesn't fully spool up. When DVD removed and only HD power still attached (or even if HD removed), it powers on via eject button for 6 seconds and provides the following readings: Eject button triggers POWON voltage at 3.3V for 6 seconds. POWOK registers at 3.3V as well until it cuts off. Even if button remains held down, voltage drops off on both at 6 seconds and it powers down All other voltages read correct during the 6 sec power on except the yellow which comes in at 11.8vdc Eject button LED comes on and flashes red. If DVD plugged in, when eject button pressed DVD is ejected and retracts before powering down No obvious Cap leakages/bulges discovered. Any ideas? Thank you!
  11. Shadow07

    No Power

    I've got a 1.4 mobo that I purchased that's supposed to be in working condition. I have a known good 1.4 PSU. Clock cap was removed when I got it and there is no trace corrosion whatsoever and I've checked for continuity and correct voltages in all the correct places. I've replaced all the CPU capacitors. The motherboard looks pristine, however there is no response whatsoever to pressing the power button. I've even tried different power button boards. The PIC is getting the correct voltages to the correct pins when I press the buttons. What is left to check or repair?
  12. My power supply died recently and I'm looking to take readings to test different areas to rebuild it. I was curious if anybody had diagrams with ratings for the single row connector revision of the power supply? If not could I get ratings for the components that blew in the picture attached to this post?
  13. Is this power supply multivolt? A friend gave me this power supply and it worked on a 220v outlet despite it saying 100-127v. This power supply doesn't look like it's been modded. I have other power supplies of the same model and I've been using a 110v to 220v transformer with them.
  14. Hello, first time Xbox repair-er here. So I took an old Xbox out of storage (10-ish years). Turned it on and it powered up fine, clock set screen came up which was expected since I assumed I was going to be ripping the clock cap out anyway. Also the disk tray wouldn't open, again an easy fix, no big deal. I open it up, clean the DVD drive and reset the belt (boiling water, etc.) and put it all back together. Only this time it doesn't turn on. I can hear a faint noise coming from the hard drive but nothing else, no indicator lights, no disk tray activity, nothing. My guess is more than one of the caps was going bad and that final power on I did was just the nail in the coffin. I plan to open it up and do a full cleaning to see if there's anything obvious, but the fact that the HDD seems to still be getting power makes me think that I possibly broke something. Is it possible that bad caps could cause power to stop going to certain components but not others?
  15. I wonder if it's a RAM compatibility issue or indicating definitely damaged RAM IC? Does anyone know the max temp the RAM ICs are rated for? I am working with a 1.4 revision board and an OpenXenium which should be booting straight to XBlast. I haven't seen much info anywhere about a solid green LED in the process of a RAM upgrade. However when I've got a chip installed it power cycles twice then goes to solid green LED but no video and the OpenXenium LED is yellow whereas if XBlast were to have booted the OpenXenium LED would be green. The board has default K4D263238D-QC50 and I have tested adding K4D263238M-QC50 (salvaged from a 1.0 revision board) and K4D263238F-QC50 (bought new on eBay but I used them). No additional RAM boots and works fine. Does the yellow LED on the OpenXenium indicate anything useful? What about the solid green LED on the console? Thanks
  16. Hello all, I am new to xbox modding. I am just trying to learn more about the software side of modding this console. I have experience modding just about every other console and am now getting into the original xbox. I've installed an openxenium mod chip, and have ordered a 2TB hdd, ide to sata converter, and 80 wire ribbon cable. I'm just trying to get a feel for what the current methods people are using as a lot of information is outdated. Thanks for reading this.
  17. Hi guys bit of a novice who gets the basics and I'm learning as I go Okay so the issue is that when I power on (power button) I get no video output with solid green ring, then when I power off(again power button) and power back on everything is fine, boots normally into XBMX Emustation and alls well. I've noticed that when I power on from the eject button it boots first time no issues. So the issue I'm trying to fix is Why do I have to power on and off again to get video? I've troubleshooted as far as my knowledge limited knowledge allows, reseated cables, checked modchip soldering etc. Its a weird one and I'm stuck here thinking its an issue with the modchip? I'd post video but I don't have the means Xbox version 1..4 Aladdin Modchip WD Blue 500gb/80 pin ide/cheap adapter/Official HD Pack
  18. I am repairing xbox 1.4 for a friend. His box is having power supply issue. There is not enough volt to run the hard drive. I used external 12v/ 5v source to power the hard drive and the system boots up fine. The dvd disk drive is also working fine as it is connected to the xbox power supply. I took the xbox power supply out and didn't notice any bad caps or bad solder joints. With everything connected and powered up ,except for the power to the hard drive I get the following voltage values. Orange = 3.3V, Blue = 3.3V, Brown =3.3V, Red = 4.48V, and Yellow = 10.5V. I tried adjust the pot and that is max i can get for red and yellow wires. Which caps do I need replace for these two voltages ? or is there something else i can check? Thanks.
  19. Recently purchased a Xbox pre modded. I thought it was soft modded but upon Futher reading it was hardmodded due to this appearing when booting the console. I stupidly yesterday tried to FTP rocky5s softmod upgrade thinking my console was softmodded. I'm unsure if it's a TSOP flash or a mod chop waiting for screw drivers to arrive from eBay now. If it was TSOP flashed is there anything I can do as after running the softmod upgrade from jrocky5 the console won't power on or make a sound to even power on. Nothing happens I still have the original Xbox HDD the console came with. The guy I bought it off gave it to me.
  20. Hey all. Sorry if this has been posted, but I searched and couldn't really find anything. I have a 1.0 Xbox that was handed to me by a friend. He said he couldn't remember much about it, but that him and his kid tried to mod it a long time ago, and now it isn't working. Upon opening it, I found a pin header, no modchip, tsop points soldered, and the underside D0 pad ripped off. When I try to start the xbox, it cycles power 3 times then frags out. I'm assuming this is due mainly to the ripped D0 trace. I've tried repairing the trace, and bridging the two pads connected by the green line, but I can't seem to get the solder to stick. Is there any other way to repair this, or is this the only way? Relatively new to xbox modding so any tips would be appreciated. Thank you!
  21. I accidentally broke my power board and tried to search a sparepart from ebay etc. with no luck. Any idea where I could get one? One of the the 1.4 revision had a a board which is little diffeferent than the one in Crystal so I didn´t try that one...
  22. Greetings everyone. Here's the situation: both my xboxes' dvd drives died. One is a thomson which receives power,but won't read the disks; then there's the philips one which doesn't even get recognized. I have one of those lg drives for pc that can be adapted to work as a new xbox dvd drive, but i miss the yellow power cable to attach it to the mobo. So my idea was to get it from the power/eject buttons. Does anybody have already attempted this and some tips?Is it even possible?(i cannot get ahold of a newcable for experimenting for cheap,so imstuck with this). My idea was to build like a couple of buttons to short the pins on the connectors on the motherboard in order to prompt the power/eject switches(don'tcare about leds, i only care of a good functioning xbox). Thanks in advance.
  23. Hi fellow kids. Just wondering if I should recap the power supply in my og Xbox?
  24. I've two 1.0 motherboard sets (ie. motherboards, controller daughterboards and power supplies) for sale. Both have clock caps removed. Both working - no issues. One of them has some clock cap damage (namely C7G6 missing). That cap (C7G6) is part of clock circuit so as long as you don't plan on bringing back the clock cap it's not used and not needed. Price for the lot: 50 Euro plus shipping (I'm in Ireland). Shipping to UK should be around 5-10 Euro max. Other EU countries - please ask.
  25. Having issues booting after an OpenXenium install on a 1.6 (using pcb). When power button is pressed, front light turns immediately from green to orange flashing, fails to power, then reboots and tries to power again with orange flashing light, then does it a third time. After the unsuccessful third try, it just completely cuts power and that's it. No flashing message, nothing at this point. Never able to get video either. Does the same thing regardless of whether drives are plugged in or not. While its trying to power on, I can see a solid red light on the chip, so I know its getting power. First time doing an Xbox mod, so hopefully this is just an issue of me being a noob. Board, power, and cables were all working before the mod. Solder points for the chip have been reflowed a couple times. I have also checked for possible solder splash, but there does not appear to be any that I can see. Traces also appear fine to me- no obvious burns or tears. Caps also appear good. Anything I miss? Maybe I need to re-check something more thoroughly? Mostly wondering what the 3x power cycle, orange light, no boot means.

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Board startup date: April 23, 2017 12:45:48
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