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Is this power supply multivolt? A friend gave me this power supply and it worked on a 220v outlet despite it saying 100-127v. This power supply doesn't look like it's been modded. I have other power supplies of the same model and I've been using a 110v to 220v transformer with them.

First press of the power button turns power on for about one second. As soon as it starts to spin down if I press the power button again it boots normally. Any ideas what could be wrong and what I should try to do to fix it? Thanks!

This Xbox had one issue of being placed in a different case and shorting. I replaced the faulty 2T transistor and all was working. Voltages were normal on all rails. I then was getting glitchy video on composite cable so I changed the large caps on the board and the video issue went away. It powered on and work fine all day. Even would power cycle multiple times without issue and run stable with any game I threw at it or just stay running for hours. The next day it would not power on at all. I changed the two large output caps on the PSU and reseated the modchip and it booted and ran perfectly so I played Doom3 for a few hours without issue. Shutdown normally. Next day it would not power on again.

Has anyone run across a decent aftermarket power cable? All of the cables I’ve seen in the last few years have seemed like they use way too small a gauge of wire, don’t seem to have nearly enough insulation on them, and generally feel extremely flimsy. Just curious if anyone has found one that doesn’t seem like it might split in half or burst in to flames. Lol. Also if you have used any of the aforementioned how did they perform long term?

I live in the USA and need a few PAL power supplies for any model besides 1.6, I'd take 1 but would buy up to 3 if you have them available. Let me know if you can help!

I just picked up a 1.6 Xbox and it does not turn on. Whenever I hit the power button there is 3.3V, 5V and 12V all present for about 1 second then nothing. All standby voltages are good too. Idk whats wrong.

I think this is just a "replace the power supply" issue (DPSN-96DP), but I'd appreciate anyone's insight if they have advice: (Video of issue) https://imgur.com/INZWEUK Summary -- push power, no LED ring lights, X3 mod chip front indicator panel briefly lights up, then turns off. Eject button has same result. Case fan briefly twitches when power/eject is pressed. Continuously holding the power button 'on' keeps the lights on the X3 front panel lit, and the hard drive can be heard spinning up, but then nothing appears and it powers back off after release. Removed the motherboard, examined the traces to see if there was any rot -- looks really, really clean, nothing was visible after several minutes of inspecting. (Shot of a section of board) https://imgur.com/HIuVLGm CPU capacitors look a little sussy and puffed, I should replace, but nothing leaking onto the board. Clock capacitor looks good, too, but I think I should replace that as well. (CPU caps) https://imgur.com/NR7H58m (Clock cap) https://imgur.com/pFDgFPA Probably will get capacitors from Console5, I have enjoyed ordering from them before. Should I just replace the power supply? Is that what this issue looks like? https://imgur.com/FVbfgB6 (Delta power supply) Thanks anyone that feels like replying! This is my daily driver, I'd like to have it back!

can anyone tell me if you can swap the power supplys without any fussing about just stright from one to another.

I have an Xbox with an Xecuter 3, X3CP, and the daughterboards for the controller port and front panel PCB, booting from the chip requires pressing the eject button but I have a couple of problems with this: - Booting with the eject button causes Cerbios to boot into safemode and not display any boot animation - Opening the disc tray each start up puts unnecessary wear on it, that's something I'd like to avoid I hardly have any experience with the X3, is there a way to enable the chip no matter what button powers the console on, or a way to switch which button enables it? I'd prefer to keep the ability to boot to the backup image

Got a dead XBOX 1.6 for cheap, it was super clean but had been previously opened so I was a little wary of what I'd find inside. Power supply fuse was missing and the attached pic is the soldering butcher job i found. I'm not familiar with 1.6 PSUs, and couldn't find any quality pics of one online to see what the layout is supposed to be, so i'm wondering if there is any saving this? Don't know what continuity (if any) is supposed to exist between the 3 points there. The bottom round hole is where the fuse is supposed to attach. Worried that the damage/solder spill shorted or created unwanted continuity but can't tell since I don't know how it was originally. The brown lines are what appears to be scratches as if someone tried to scratch away solder to keep the points separated? I dunno. If it is fixable, was wondering what could have caused the fuse to blow that necessitated the repair attempt, as in are there any usual suspects I should look/test for on the Power supply? The rest of the Power supply looks fine. The mobo had some bad caps so i went ahead and replaced the 5 usual ones there but other than that no visible defects on either the mobo or power supply. Any help or thoughts on power supply layout and downstream test/checks would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

I have a 1.6 Xbox with Xenium 24k modchip. System worked fine but feeding buttons prior to install. Lpc rebuild and added pin header and Xbox boots with chip great. Eject button takes me to Xenium is and power button boots into my dashboard (Xbmc4gamers). The issue I’m having, is that I can’t use the power or eject after in turn it on. Don’t think it’s a trace issue due to it being a 1.6 and not having the issue prior to the chip. Any help would be awesome

I have a v1.4 that doesn't seem to be getting power at all, zero response from power/eject so I've tried a bunch of stuff: - Replaced 3x 3300uF 6.3V, 3x 1500uF 6.3V, and 2x 3300uF 10V caps, all the big ones - Checked continuity on those 4 lines that usually get rotted, 3 were good, rebuilt 1 and confirmed continuity with the top of the board - Reflowed the 20 pin ATX header - Tested with 2 known good PSUs - Tested with 2 known good front panel PCBs I haven't seen this behavior (or lack of) before and had it not be bad caps, but if there's something to be tried short of an entire recap, I'm unaware of what that would be. Anyone have any ideas?

I recently bought a few 1.0 consoles with "no power" issues, 2 of them have this same 47K resistor marked R902 (measured from a good psu) and surrounding area burned, both resistors are basically ash. I have a couple of questions, is this a common issue with this model psu, is replacing these burnt components likely to save these things, or is the issue probably caused by something else that sent too much power through the resistor, such as the large transistor in front of it? Here's a pic of what it's supposed to look like:

Hello, i have this power Board 1.1 Version 220 volt with burned parts.. I like to know the value of resistor, can someone help me? Thanks

Hi all, Brand new to the OG XBox scene I just imported myself a JP NTSC unit for that 60hz goodness. Being in Australia means not wanting to buy locally due to being a PAL 50hz territory. Can anyone point me in the right direction to a compatible 240V power supply for this unit? Thanks in advance! Edit: Just doing some reading, it seems the done thing is buying a second local xbox of the same revision / has the same headers, and swapping the PSU into my imported unit. Is that about right?

Hello i'm looking for wiring diagram of power board Version 1.1 year 2002- 220 volt Classic xbox, help me! Please

Hello all! A few months back a got my first OG Xbox, but the DVD drive was broken. I ended up buying a second Xbox for parts with a working drive and swapped them out (I ended up getting lucky, it was a Samsung drive). So a couple days ago I pulled out my spare Xbox and found the only problem with it was the power button not turning the console on/off. The console would power on when plugged in, which looking into this online told me its a common problem. So I ended borrowing the working drive and softmodding it. Everything was going perfectly until I was playing some snes9x and the console was smoking! Turns out the clock capicitor was leaking on the motherboard and melting. I knew about the clock capicitor issues, but stupid me thought I'd just do it later. So I cleaned up the mess and removed the capicitor, but it left some irreversible damage. Now the console will boot up and work fine for 5 minutes before suddenly turning off. I inspected the motherboard and noticed it had some corrosion on the "A Line" (Source: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.ogxbox.com/forums/index.php%3F/topic/29-how-to-fix-trace-corrosion/&ved=2ahUKEwjl4szT1bn7AhXbjokEHQddBoEQFnoECA4QAQ&usg=AOvVaw1PMDAuq47ME_GX_0VJ58Ll). I'm not sure if the clock capicitor melt down has something to do with this new issue (most likely do does) or if the corrosion has gotten worse from the whole incident. I'm posting pictures below. I think the best method moving forward would be to try and solder in a wire workaround (From source above). I need some advice, whats the best move moving forward? I want to save this Xbox if I can.

Why is it the ram and cpu upgrades on the original xbox are done. But those that do fail to upgrade the next most vital component in your console pcs. Upgrade you power supplies to a larger one to give the system better response time and a deeper well of wattage to pull from. Put an atx in there that has 2 12 v rails and make sure that board has all the power running to it efficiently a 80 or 90 % percent efficient 400 or 500 or 300 watt power supply will give you so many more options for cooling and give that mainboard all the power it needs to function better than ever. Also put low esr capacitors on the board or aluminum polymer capacitors that run at a lower frequenzy and run cooler for you system to truly modernize it. I see the cpu upgrade the ram upgrade, the firmware upgrade, the cosmetic upgrades, but no power upgrades, no capacitor component upgrades. Why are you people not doing this with your retro game consoles. Seriously why has no xbox with the formentioned upgrades that are common talked about not complimented with a larger power supply. And don't give me that crap about the system only uses so much power blah blah blah. That isn't true. A more efficient power supply and low esr capacitors will do wonders for you system. I did a power supply upgrade for the playstation 2 and i can tell you it works better than ever and i can put a 12v fan in it and still give the main board all the power it could ever need with a 180 watt imac power supply from an apple imac A1224 i have 3 for sale on ebay see them there nicely painted and perform better and have a big boy pc grounded 3 pin 110v-250v ac in plug. Also line filters Emi filters, get them there amazing.

I have an Xecuter 2.3 lite+ that I hard wired from years ago, but there is no video output. I have unplugged the DVD/HD and turned the chip off and dont get a video signal. There is a blue light on the mod chip that should be solid, but is flickering when I attempt to boot in this manner. I watched this video: and the dude put a heat gun on what appears to be the power supply capacitors and it worked. I tried something similar with mine and got it to boot one time with a solid blue light on the mod chip, but not since. I tested the power supply plug with a multimeter and all the voltages looked within spec/steady under no load. If the power supply caps are indeed the problem, should I just replace the power supply, since it appears that cap kits for it are the same price if not more expensive based on what I can google? Is there a better option to get it working again? Cheers

Hello.. Ive seen a Universal one floating around, but i have a Dead 1.0 PS and a good 1.6PS.. I was wondering if there was a diagram where id be able to splice in the 1.0 connector and remove the 1.6.. thanks in advance

I've been trying for days but to no avail I need a power supply with 220v input in one with 127v input A delta DSPN-96AP-1 I have seen that they are practically identical to the ones that have turned into DSPN-96AP it does not have the simple jumper Everything else is identical I removed the transformer and made the jumper and I powered with 127v Unfortunately the power supply does not turn on Do you have any advice?

Was given a few broken xboxes. The one im having trouble with is a 1.4. No power at all. History: was told they replaced the power supply on this one and "something blew up". I see absolutely no signs of anything blowing up. What i have tried: another known working power supply. Another case (incase power button was problem). Changed all the caps to new ones although they looked to be in like new shape. Checked bottom for tracerot from clock cap (which was already removed). Looked over whole board for any previous work (none everything is stock except clock cap was removed). I don't want to give up on it. It is the best looking one of the three I was given. Just not sure what to check or change. I haven't removed the heatsinks to check gpu and cpu. Any input from anyone would be great. I have a multimeter and can check things as suggested. Thanks in advance.

Edited by moderator: Originally posted in similar thread "Xbox 1.1 dead no power". Moved @nerdbombing's post to a new topic thread. I'm having a similar issue with a 1.6 I took the box completely apart to put it into another shell. The box had worked before, no issues, fully softmodded with an upgraded HDD. I wast just trying to put it into a nicer shell as the one it was in had a cracked corner. After putting it into the new shell, nothing turns on. I thought it may have been the front switch or PSU but I replaced both with known good ones. It simply doesn't react to the power buttons, nothing comes on, no lights, and my visual inspection didn't find anything. What's a good place to start diagnosis from here? (Ebay#2)

Hi everyone, new to the forum but looks like it's the right place for me to visit. I have an Xbox 1.6b (2005, Australian 240V model). Tonight it wouldn't fire up at all, completely dead and unresponsive to the power button. I opened it up and there was no obvious damage on the mobo. All i could measure on the 20 pin molex from the psu were some very low voltage (0.6V) on the 5V pins. 12V was reading 0. Ac input fuses showed good continuity. The only thing that looks suspect on the psu is the component in R10. I measured across the pins for R10 and its reading open circuit. I reflowed the solder on the AC input pins, no change. The xbox has been moldded since purchase but has been working perfectly until tonight. Nothing has been changed in the last 15 years. Still in original case. The original power cable seems to be intermittent now but other cables tried and no change. Any suggestions to help diagnose would be appreciated as I couldn't t find any replacement psu online anymore. OG psu is Tuscany rev 1.0. Tyia, tssfka

This is just a show and tell post. While doing my other Xbox research, I am powering on and off the Xbox a lot. I also do the power + eject sequence to load the backup bank on the Xecuter X3 a lot. I was thinking this would be slightly more convenient if I had a remote control so I found some spare IR receivers and a small board with a microcontroller on it and got to work. The install is pretty stealthy. It's on the left of the front panel. Microcontroller is on the back of the board. Connected up with thin enamelled wire from a transformer. Board is held in with Earth's greatest material: hot glue. I used the spare pin on the front panel connected to carry 5V to power the thing. Series resistor to limit the current or act as a fuse in case it shorts out. I programmed it to use volume up and down on a generic remote for power and power+eject. This sounds inconvenient but I never use those buttons.