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I recently bought a few 1.0 consoles with "no power" issues, 2 of them have this same 47K resistor marked R902 (measured from a good psu) and surrounding area burned, both resistors are basically ash. I have a couple of questions, is this a common issue with this model psu, is replacing these burnt components likely to save these things, or is the issue probably caused by something else that sent too much power through the resistor, such as the large transistor in front of it? Here's a pic of what it's supposed to look like:

Hello, i have this power Board 1.1 Version 220 volt with burned parts.. I like to know the value of resistor, can someone help me? Thanks

Hi all, Brand new to the OG XBox scene I just imported myself a JP NTSC unit for that 60hz goodness. Being in Australia means not wanting to buy locally due to being a PAL 50hz territory. Can anyone point me in the right direction to a compatible 240V power supply for this unit? Thanks in advance! Edit: Just doing some reading, it seems the done thing is buying a second local xbox of the same revision / has the same headers, and swapping the PSU into my imported unit. Is that about right?

Hello i'm looking for wiring diagram of power board Version 1.1 year 2002- 220 volt Classic xbox, help me! Please

Hello all! A few months back a got my first OG Xbox, but the DVD drive was broken. I ended up buying a second Xbox for parts with a working drive and swapped them out (I ended up getting lucky, it was a Samsung drive). So a couple days ago I pulled out my spare Xbox and found the only problem with it was the power button not turning the console on/off. The console would power on when plugged in, which looking into this online told me its a common problem. So I ended borrowing the working drive and softmodding it. Everything was going perfectly until I was playing some snes9x and the console was smoking! Turns out the clock capicitor was leaking on the motherboard and melting. I knew about the clock capicitor issues, but stupid me thought I'd just do it later. So I cleaned up the mess and removed the capicitor, but it left some irreversible damage. Now the console will boot up and work fine for 5 minutes before suddenly turning off. I inspected the motherboard and noticed it had some corrosion on the "A Line" (Source: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.ogxbox.com/forums/index.php%3F/topic/29-how-to-fix-trace-corrosion/&ved=2ahUKEwjl4szT1bn7AhXbjokEHQddBoEQFnoECA4QAQ&usg=AOvVaw1PMDAuq47ME_GX_0VJ58Ll). I'm not sure if the clock capicitor melt down has something to do with this new issue (most likely do does) or if the corrosion has gotten worse from the whole incident. I'm posting pictures below. I think the best method moving forward would be to try and solder in a wire workaround (From source above). I need some advice, whats the best move moving forward? I want to save this Xbox if I can.

Is this power supply multivolt? A friend gave me this power supply and it worked on a 220v outlet despite it saying 100-127v. This power supply doesn't look like it's been modded. I have other power supplies of the same model and I've been using a 110v to 220v transformer with them.

Why is it the ram and cpu upgrades on the original xbox are done. But those that do fail to upgrade the next most vital component in your console pcs. Upgrade you power supplies to a larger one to give the system better response time and a deeper well of wattage to pull from. Put an atx in there that has 2 12 v rails and make sure that board has all the power running to it efficiently a 80 or 90 % percent efficient 400 or 500 or 300 watt power supply will give you so many more options for cooling and give that mainboard all the power it needs to function better than ever. Also put low esr capacitors on the board or aluminum polymer capacitors that run at a lower frequenzy and run cooler for you system to truly modernize it. I see the cpu upgrade the ram upgrade, the firmware upgrade, the cosmetic upgrades, but no power upgrades, no capacitor component upgrades. Why are you people not doing this with your retro game consoles. Seriously why has no xbox with the formentioned upgrades that are common talked about not complimented with a larger power supply. And don't give me that crap about the system only uses so much power blah blah blah. That isn't true. A more efficient power supply and low esr capacitors will do wonders for you system. I did a power supply upgrade for the playstation 2 and i can tell you it works better than ever and i can put a 12v fan in it and still give the main board all the power it could ever need with a 180 watt imac power supply from an apple imac A1224 i have 3 for sale on ebay see them there nicely painted and perform better and have a big boy pc grounded 3 pin 110v-250v ac in plug. Also line filters Emi filters, get them there amazing.

I have an Xecuter 2.3 lite+ that I hard wired from years ago, but there is no video output. I have unplugged the DVD/HD and turned the chip off and dont get a video signal. There is a blue light on the mod chip that should be solid, but is flickering when I attempt to boot in this manner. I watched this video: and the dude put a heat gun on what appears to be the power supply capacitors and it worked. I tried something similar with mine and got it to boot one time with a solid blue light on the mod chip, but not since. I tested the power supply plug with a multimeter and all the voltages looked within spec/steady under no load. If the power supply caps are indeed the problem, should I just replace the power supply, since it appears that cap kits for it are the same price if not more expensive based on what I can google? Is there a better option to get it working again? Cheers

Hello.. Ive seen a Universal one floating around, but i have a Dead 1.0 PS and a good 1.6PS.. I was wondering if there was a diagram where id be able to splice in the 1.0 connector and remove the 1.6.. thanks in advance

I've been trying for days but to no avail I need a power supply with 220v input in one with 127v input A delta DSPN-96AP-1 I have seen that they are practically identical to the ones that have turned into DSPN-96AP it does not have the simple jumper Everything else is identical I removed the transformer and made the jumper and I powered with 127v Unfortunately the power supply does not turn on Do you have any advice?

Was given a few broken xboxes. The one im having trouble with is a 1.4. No power at all. History: was told they replaced the power supply on this one and "something blew up". I see absolutely no signs of anything blowing up. What i have tried: another known working power supply. Another case (incase power button was problem). Changed all the caps to new ones although they looked to be in like new shape. Checked bottom for tracerot from clock cap (which was already removed). Looked over whole board for any previous work (none everything is stock except clock cap was removed). I don't want to give up on it. It is the best looking one of the three I was given. Just not sure what to check or change. I haven't removed the heatsinks to check gpu and cpu. Any input from anyone would be great. I have a multimeter and can check things as suggested. Thanks in advance.

Edited by moderator: Originally posted in similar thread "Xbox 1.1 dead no power". Moved @nerdbombing's post to a new topic thread. I'm having a similar issue with a 1.6 I took the box completely apart to put it into another shell. The box had worked before, no issues, fully softmodded with an upgraded HDD. I wast just trying to put it into a nicer shell as the one it was in had a cracked corner. After putting it into the new shell, nothing turns on. I thought it may have been the front switch or PSU but I replaced both with known good ones. It simply doesn't react to the power buttons, nothing comes on, no lights, and my visual inspection didn't find anything. What's a good place to start diagnosis from here? (Ebay#2)

Hi everyone, new to the forum but looks like it's the right place for me to visit. I have an Xbox 1.6b (2005, Australian 240V model). Tonight it wouldn't fire up at all, completely dead and unresponsive to the power button. I opened it up and there was no obvious damage on the mobo. All i could measure on the 20 pin molex from the psu were some very low voltage (0.6V) on the 5V pins. 12V was reading 0. Ac input fuses showed good continuity. The only thing that looks suspect on the psu is the component in R10. I measured across the pins for R10 and its reading open circuit. I reflowed the solder on the AC input pins, no change. The xbox has been moldded since purchase but has been working perfectly until tonight. Nothing has been changed in the last 15 years. Still in original case. The original power cable seems to be intermittent now but other cables tried and no change. Any suggestions to help diagnose would be appreciated as I couldn't t find any replacement psu online anymore. OG psu is Tuscany rev 1.0. Tyia, tssfka

This is just a show and tell post. While doing my other Xbox research, I am powering on and off the Xbox a lot. I also do the power + eject sequence to load the backup bank on the Xecuter X3 a lot. I was thinking this would be slightly more convenient if I had a remote control so I found some spare IR receivers and a small board with a microcontroller on it and got to work. The install is pretty stealthy. It's on the left of the front panel. Microcontroller is on the back of the board. Connected up with thin enamelled wire from a transformer. Board is held in with Earth's greatest material: hot glue. I used the spare pin on the front panel connected to carry 5V to power the thing. Series resistor to limit the current or act as a fuse in case it shorts out. I programmed it to use volume up and down on a generic remote for power and power+eject. This sounds inconvenient but I never use those buttons.

Hello, my name is Carlos, I have an original xbox, I am connecting it by the eject button, because the power button is not working, when analyzing the tracks under the board I did not find corrosion, could someone please provide me with the scheme for measuring the points contact of the four tracks? so I can really check if they are broken.

Someone knows if this PSU will work on a 1.4 console? Mine is faulty and I saw that one for sale in my country (OG Xbox stuff is extremely rare here) Pics from the seller, thanks for your time.

Hi all, I have a 1.1 motherboard that is dead, I know it's not the psu as I have another 1.1 and it works in that console. Basically I was trying to add LEDs to my case which needs a 12v source. I used a Y splitter on the molex connect for the HDD, it worked for a few mins then the console died and now won't power on? I have replaced the 5 caps near the psu connector aswell. Thanks

Xbox original controller modded communicator shell with power button and USB port.... This requires modifications to be done to the console for this to function with the power button. USB port works as is. make sure you Google what this is before you ask me any questions. $20 USA Shipped. Cash App or PayPal goods and services only

I'm about to install some Internal mods and needed to know how to power them, do I just tap into the hdd's molex? I'm not using the DVD drive so I was thinking of using the 12pin header but I don't know what is a safe amp limit. The mods would draw around 2.5A, how do you guys safely power multiple Internal mods like leds, temp sensors+display, wireless controller & remote control, wifi, Extra fans?

Anyone know if there's a way to use ogx360 to power on/off the Xbox using this? Would be a really nice quality of life upgrade to the OG

I have several boards (1.0, 1.1 & 1.4) that will not power up with a known good power supply. Capacitors all look good and there are no visible signs of damage or component failure anywhere. Are there typical failure points that I should check? Would it be worth it to replace the power caps anyway? Thanks for any help. I hate to ditch these boards or just use them for parts.

Hey guys, this week I've had two xboxs that were untouched seals still intact and clock cap leaking everywhere just starting cleaning when i noticed both had the same issue, the two screws on the hard drive caddy that screw the hd to the caddy have unscrewed with vibrations from the drive I would guess as they are both the same side right looking at the front of the xbox,( if the hd spun up the other way probably be the other two) and ended up in the power supply. May be worth a drop of lock tight or a shake proof washer for anybody still using one. the screw is nestled in between the the heat sinks next to the transformer. Ted

Hi all, I recently came across a 1.4 xbox that would not power on, and after replacing the power supply with one from a working 1.4 console it came to life. i checked the fuse for continuity and it was blown, so i replaced it and now this piece blew up (see picture) and instantly blew the fuse again. i was wondering if anyone knows where i can get a replacement of the piece that exploded, cheers.

I made a post a few weeks back about getting a 1.6 with a HDD that immediately died after booting. Couldn’t get eeprom in time. Looks like someone was trying to tinker around and really screwed some things up. Without the wires and chip, the Xbox will boot into HDD failure error which I’m fully aware of. I tried getting two Aladdin chips fitted and neither one of them will boot. They both flash green light for a second and then power off. One chip shows red light and the other shows yellow. I’ve reflowed solder points countless times and still the same result. I’ve tried D0 grounded to board and the chip and other various places I’ve seen and read about, but nothing works. As you can see from the board, there have been several trace lifts, but from what I’ve seen I have everything linked up properly accordingly to the lifted traces. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I do not want to keep the chip inside so I have not cut the L-Frame. I just want to pull the eeprom and build a replacement drive. These Aladdin chips on 1.6 are proving to be a real pain in the ass.

Hi all, so I've just done a really dumb/bad thing and was hoping to get some advice please... Putting a different HD into my modded box, the X3 chip wasn't booting (it sometimes doesn't sit right and has to be wiggled) and stupidly, without thinking, I tried moving the disc drive unit on top of it, while the unit was still plugged in... One loud pop, a flash on the power board and a blown trip switch in my flat later: the Xbox is now dead... :-( So my question is: am I screwed? Or can I swap out the power supply board for a replacement one? I have 2 spare working Xboxes in the cupboard - so could I just replace the whole power supply board? Or is that gonna be "way too easy"... (I'm guessing they were a few different types of power supply boards back in the day: the attached photo is the one in my modded box...)