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  1. Is it normal for most all of the preview videos on the Kiosks to not load? I came across Stranno's Xbox redump on Archive and have tried multiple ways to extract them. Mulleter, Qwix, ExtractISO, they all output the same files, which is expected, but only a handful of the preview videos play when selected. The ones that do, play immediately. When I click on one, it makes a sound like a tiny drop of water, but nothing loads. I've noticed some game demos also load up until the MS logo, and either freeze or say dirty disc. I can see the video files in the extracted folders and know they're there. The redumps are 7.3GB to a final size of 3.9GB after extraction. I planned on downloading every kiosk, demo, and exhibition disc for my next 4TB build, but if most of the previews don't work, not sure I'll continue.
  2. XBOX original dvd drive(sdg-605f) not working. Problem is with dvd drive capacitors. I dont know how to connect them. Please help me in understanding the capacitors connection. And 1 more thing is tht can I use other capacitos whose values are slightly c?
  3. Hello everyone. I have not done anything with my original Xbox 1.6b since I softmodded it over 15 years ago, and recently it stopped powering on. I've tried googling and researching, but the loss of Sickmods (and others that I probably don't know about) has made it difficult to find information. Attempts So far: Eject or power button does nothing. Replaced the 5 main caps that are known to leak (I'm pretty sure I did this 10 years ago as well, but had parts on hand so did it anyways) I have replaced the transistor near the clock cap (q7c2) I'm pretty sure its the power supply itself, (Its the Samsung Tuscany one) so I have been trying to modify an ATX supply to use to test. On the earlier versions of the XBox there are lots of information and adaptors, but not the 1.6b. The pinouts I have found for the 1.6 xbox (See below) show it needing 4 lines on 5Vsb, and only one standard 5V line: I'm pretty sure this is backwards, and it should be 1 standby line and 4 regular, can someone with more experience confirm? The other question is regarding the N64Freak adaptor board diagram: From what I have read the 1.6 uses 5Vsb instead of 3.3Vsb, can I omit the LM3490, the 33uf cap, and the link to the ground plane like so: Thank you in advance for any help you are able to provide, and if you have any good tips for a guy who is 15 years out of the scene, let me know.
  4. I have a 1.6 revision board which shut down in the middle of using it. I have tested the PSU which is working correctly (have tried in another system also). I have traced the problem to this MOSFET - Q2F1 not outputting 5V.Can anyone guide me on a replacement? The numbers on it don't give me a good guide on an equivalent/compatible one.
  5. I recently hopped into the Prometheos thread here with trouble getting my original Xenium chip updated. I searched all over the web and only found users with the same issue and not one shred of evidence on how to get passed this obstacle, until today. Being that Prometheos is new and most everyone doesn’t run into the xenium tools issue, there was no step by step guide on what to do otherwise. Embarrassingly, it was a fairly easy fix, but risky without having full confirmation and no success stories to go off of. It occurred to me to just rename the files so the old Xenium tools would see them, since it doesn’t allow you to choose your file. I didn’t write these files and do not know the full extent of what they do behind the curtain so I ruled that option out and continued my research in fear of making a brick. I also had other flashers in different folders with backups for each one. In the end, with @Harcroft holding my hand, we got it done. He assured me it was ok to delete all the other files completely and go ahead to rename the Prometheos.bin file to flash.bin (this is also not mentioned in the text files) and put it in the folder with the the old xenium tools. That’s the fix and I just made you read all of that when I could have just told you outright LOL. The previous versions apparently weren’t designed to work with the old Team Xodus chips and this is already being addressed To summarize, users using very old XOS versions (2.3.1>) were not able to use the newest versions of Xenium Tools. The modified tools is included in the download for Prometheus 2.0.1. Be sure to be running a bios from your Xenium and not your TSOP, otherwise even the new tools will not detect your chip. Also you must rename the Prometheos.bin file to “flash.bin” and have it in the same folder as your xenium tools. DO NOT create a backup of your chip before flashing. This will cause the program to flash what you just backed up. I think that’s pretty much it. The dev team will have a much more professional explanation.
  6. I'm not sure what it's actually called (jewel?) but the LEDs that light up the ring around the eject button on my Xbox v1.0 doesn't work. I took the Xbox apart and tested the LEDs with my multimeter set on diode mode and the LEDs do light up (for those that might not know diode mode on a digital multi meter will usually provide enough power to light a LED). I then did a continuity test between the 3 legs on each of the LEDs to the connector pins on the back of the board and found not problems. I then powered up the board to test for voltage going to either of the LEDs and there is none., My guess is that corrosion damage from a bad clock capacitor (now removed) has caused an issue with the power traces going to the LEDs.. Is there a guide anywhere on fixing the trace(s) that provide power to the LEDs? or would it be easier to pick up power from somewhere else like from the leg of a voltage regulator or somewhere else? thanks
  7. This is a 1.0 Xbox that was found with a dead 110v PSU, most likely plugged into 220v. I swapped the PSU with a good one. When I press the power button I get rapid flashing green light, no fans, no boot, no FRAG. It had a leaky clock cap with some messed up resistors near the cap which were replaced from a doner board after cleaning the area, no change. Traces look ok. I swapped the 5 1500uf caps with new ones, no change. Power at the first N FET input is 5v when the power on button is pressed and around 1.8v on the output. I swapped the fet from a doner board, no change. Voltage on the two resistors near the yellow power button cable show 3.5v and drop to around 2.5v when pressing the power button. Not sure where to go from here...
  8. The Cerbios 2.3.2 with HD+ support is not far away with the ElpisHD in beta testing https://www.xbox-scene.info/articles.html/cerbios-releases-new-custom-bios-v232-hd-alpha-with-hd-support-for-testing-bug-reporting-r28/ Cheers SS Dave Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.
  9. HI my replacement fan does not wanna spin I upgraded the ram and that was it üduring the top onece it worked and on the bottom ones I did not notice it. It did never got too hot or something like that. I used diferent fan still nothing. and if no fan is connected it is 11 Volts
  10. I've bought a Xbox (1.6 version) because of the physical games that were included in the deal. So I connected the Xbox to my TV and take a look at the memory. When removing the game saves I found some stuff that I normally not see unless the Xbox is modded. Beside the UnleashX Xbox launcher also Xbox Media Center, dvd2box and some other stuff was showing up. I tried to FTP to the xbox to see what's on the disk (it's the original 10GB disk), but that is not working, but it has network connection. It boots up in the normal MS Dash. I don't have the time or desire to put a mod chip and larger disk in it. I only want to know if someone has a clue.
  11. I've a softmod 1.6 where I'm trying to fill the 2TB replacement HDD with all my game backups. I'm finding FTP painful so thought I could connect the HDD directly to windows PC and access through FATXplorer. When I try and connect the SATA 2TB xbox HDD to my PC through one of the SATA connections, when I then boot the PC, I get an Asrock BIOS message that there's a locked HDD attached and to enter the password. I've tried 32 x 1, and TEAMASSEMBLY without success. I then read my original eeprom_original.bin and entered the original key and that was no better. Do I need to hotswap the HDD? I don't think my PC does hotswapping.
  12. So I have a OEM component cable and a 3rd party. They both work but give me one same issue. The right audio channel wont work, so its just my left speaker. Its not my TV bc my PS2 and Wii component works flawlessly. I cleaned the av port with q tip and isopropyl 91. If I use my Chimeric HDMI adapter both speakers work but I think its still playing through the left audio channel only. Im tryna use component so I can avoid buying another hdmi splitter. My xbox is a 1.2 128mb ram openxenium running IND bios recapped not by me.
  13. Hello, I've been lurking around here for a couple days, but haven't found anyone with the same issue so I thought I'd ask. I have a v1.0, never modded, xbox (original and only owner). Last time I used it (about a year ago), it was working great, but when I turned it on the other day, it attempted to boot three times, then started flashing red and orange. I was able to get it to boot after restarting it a few times, and I played through a game for about 5 min (then game froze due to a scratch, I'm pretty sure), but I have not been able to get it to start up again since (just 3 reboots and FOAR). If I hit the disc eject button once it's FOAR, the TV will show the green blob come on screen (it freezes after less than a second), but I'll continue to hear the music that goes with it (haven't left it on long enough to see if it goes to main menu and i can hear the sound of changing menu selection). I've seen a few '3 reboots and FRAG' articles, so I'm curious if this is the same situation, but maybe error colors are different for the earlier xboxes? Based on what I've read so far, I've checked the following: Cleaned the innards of most of the dust (had never opened it up in my 18+ years of ownership) LPC traces are undamaged (even did continuity check for sanity sake) Reseated all connectors Checked PSU voltages -- this was an interesting one, all voltages were correct, except for the power on signal (pin 11/teal wire), which i measured to be be 2.6V, not 3.3V Clock cap wasn't bulging, but it does look like it leaked a little, so i removed that, cleaned the area, but I don't see any damaged traces I'm planning on replacing all the caps on the board as a next step, but I'm wondering if anyone has an idea for something else worth testing to figure out what might be causing the error state. I'm so curious if the 2.6V power on signal is an indicator of anything. Does that get set by the CPU or the PSU? Thanks in advance for any ideas or suggestions!
  14. It's just not flashing and refusing to do so. It's acting like the point isn't jumpered. I soldered the jumper using a wire to bridge it. No idea why this isn't working.
  15. I can see that the laser module has problems going up all the way as well. The drive tray catches on the spindle when trying to eject and then tries to close back up but the laser module and thus the gearing isn't cycling all the way and so the drive ends up popping back out and catching on the spindle again. I probably need to remove the drive tray to even start this, But where should I be checking to see why the laser module isn't dropping all the way to allow the drive tray to clear? Edit: The laser module IS dropping all the way. I can see that the tray is lowered all the way in this white piece of plastic that slides over when the tray starts to open. I can see that the black tab is all the way at the bottom of the slope in the mechanism. Why would the spindle still be sticking up too far? The tray looks straight... But the rear of the tray is still catching on the spindle. I cannot visually understand what is happening. Anyone seen this before? I may just cut away the plastic that's catching on the spindle and see if the laser module raises to the correct height when closed. The Xbox has never been opened before me so I have no idea what it possibly could have been that changed. I just tried to open the drive fully and I manuevered the rear of the tray past the module... and the laser just tried to read a disc with the tray all the way out... WTF? That spindle looks a bit high for resting position when fully closed.
  16. My 1.6 Halo edition that I put my Aladdin in is stable at 827MHZ. And shows it in XBMC and wherever else. My X3 console will work too, and I believe it's a 1.4. All my other consoles will not ackknowledge the overclock. They just ignore it and stay at 733. This is extremely annoying. I would like to overclock any console I want, but it's not behaving consistently, which is a problem I have not heard of. Does anybody know why XBOverclock would work for some consoles and not others? Edit: Let me be ridiculously specific since, again, it seems some people have a hard time understanding my English: Does anybody know why some consoles would continue to operate at stock speeds and ignore the overclock and why some will accept it and the overclock will actually take?
  17. I bought a refurbished deck with a laser already assembled from ebay and also recapped the logic board 'correctly' with a cap kit from console5. I also replaced the dvd drive belt. I swapped out the deck assembly for the new one. I connected all of the ribbon cables and soldered the red and blue wires back. So dvd drive ejects very nicely and the cd that tested didn't get scratched or didn't stay stuck. The dvd drive emits a loud vibrating noise and I get the pop-up that says that the disc that I inserted is not an Xbox disc. Its a cd music disc that I inserted to test the dvd drive. What I suspect that I did wrong is that I applied too much lithium grease to the rails because the laser doesn't stay put in a single place anymore but it moves back and forth when I tilt the dvd drive. I also didn't pay attention to the laser position before I disassembled the dvd drive. I also don't know the correct level of the disc tray. The disc tray elevates up and down while the laser is reading a game. Its my first time repairing an Xbox dvd drive and I'm out of troubleshooting ideas. Edit: I just remembered that usually refurbished lasers have two pads bridged to protect the laser from being damaged by static. Well the two points were not bridged and there was a lot of burned flux residue too.
  18. I have just found an Xbox v1.1 during a unit clearance so I have no idea of the history. The unit powers on for a few seconds and powers down again, it is flashing just orange and the fan is at full speed. The 5 3300uF caps by the power supply connector have been swapped but no other signs of soldering that I can see on the LPC port or anywhere else. It had a leaking battery cap but only minor. I have removed it, washed the corrosion of with vinegar and then isopropyl but no change. I can't see any broken traces and I have belled the long traces underneath on the front edge (I have read these area common failure) but they are OK. The advice online seems to be that it is a mod problem. Clearly it hasn't been hard modded. It may have a softmod gone wrong so perhaps putting in a modchip might be a good idea so the XBOX has a known working BIOS. Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks...
  19. Greetings, I am encountering a problem on Xbox. The Xbox app does not detect the gaming service. I have no idea what could be he issue. Could anyone please help?
  20. Hi, I've found a Xbox with a Duo-X modchip installed. When booting it says Executer2 with the blue logo. It doesn`t recognize all the partitions on my 500GB S-ATA harddrive, so I would like to flash the BIOS. I tried flashing through the EvoX dashboard and also with Xblast OS, but both aren`t working (I tried Cerbios and M8plus). Normally I can flash almost everything through Xblast. In the EvoX dashboard it says the Flash isn`t writeable (Manufacturers ID 09, Device ID 00). I can`t find anything regarding write protection. From the info the current kernel version is 1.00.4979.67
  21. Hello! To start, I have successfully completed a stellar HD+ install on my 1.0 Xbox. I was using it all fine with no issues and a stock HDD for a few weeks now. I finally decided to upgrade my HDD to a 4TB for game storage and run a custom dashboard. Went though the process via the Project Stellar tool and the drive reads correctly and is formatted the right way. I successfully installed the dashboard through FTP and downloaded the stock one through the downloader (the main reason I went with this dash was for the downloader) and now my disc drive won't read any games that I know work. I have tested multiple IDE Cables (both 40 and 80 wire) and 3 dvd drives that I know work for sure and none are able to read discs anymore in this console. I'm still fairly new to this scene so I do not know what to troubleshoot. I've tried google and found nothing so I figure I'll try the site where all the Pro's are at who may have experienced this issue before. Let me know if I can provide any more info to help figure this out. Thanks
  22. Ok so a few years back I attempted to flash this and killed it somehow, that's all I can remember, I do recall trying a few things at the time to revive it but no luck, luckily the consoles HD was stock so I removed the chip and TSOP'd, the switchbank is still stuck to a faceplate and it even has the x3 holographic sticker Also the D0/LAN/HDD wire is present but not pictured (I found it after I took the pics) NOTE: THIS IS NOT WORKING - IT MAY / MAY NOT BE FIXABLE!
  23. That is the question. I've heard different things about grounding D0 to a pad without cutting Lframe. I've heard that It will eventually cause fryage, and I've heard that it's an old wive's tale. What is your opinion? I HATE cutting traces...
  24. Hi everybody, I was trying the new cerbios 2.3.0 UDMA4 but when I launch it from xeniumos my screen turns black for a second and then it reboots into xeniumos (imgur video of the issue). What I have done for now was fomatting my 1TB hdd with the new version of FATXplorer and installing the bios with a pendrive (I previusly cleaned the chip by resetting it to default settings) Thanks to everybody that will help! Have a great day
  25. Hi guys, i have an openxenium with latest OS and cerbios 2.3.0 mounted on a 1.6 xbox and it works fine. When i place the modchip into my 1.4 xbox it won't boot (it frags). D0 is connected to the correct point on the motherboard. I believe cerbios 2.3.0 is an all xbox version ?. Should i flash a 1.4 bios into it with the launch menu ?. I also have a duo x modchip and That one boots fine.(on the 1.4 board) I am puzzled ,can it be a poor connection on one off the lpc header pins ? Somebody can give me advice ? Thanks.

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Board startup date: April 23, 2017 12:45:48
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