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I took photos as I went through the process, but there wasn't much that I followed, since this error is not well documented. You could look up videos with tips for chip removal, but it's something that really takes practice. I had some clues that the RAM was the issue, such as this case often being linked to RAM not installed properly with mod chips, and the fact that things worked briefly, and even the display attempted to start at some points. As for performing the fix, I'd highly recommend only doing this if you're very comfortable with surface mount soldering, and more importantly surface mount desoldering. You can do a lot of damage to the board/pads if you're not careful removing the RAM chips. I'd also recommend using a decent quality microscope when doing this, so you can make sure everything is cleanly performed (last thing you want is a bridge or disconnected connection that continues to give you headaches). I've been doing this sort of work for a long time, and even I made a few mistakes (thankfully I knew how to fix them). There are tools like chip quik, which would make the removal of the old RAM a lot easier, but that still requires a decent amount of comfort using a soldering iron to do surface mount level work. I would not recommend attempting this with just a hot air gun, there are just too many small passive components around the RAM that could easily be blown off. After U6D1 was removed (notice I ended up losing a pad due to human error): After soldering a new RAM chip for U6D1 (was able to fix the pad issue with a little rework):

Following up to my above issue in hopes this information will be helpful for someone else down the line. I was able to fix this error. The issue ended up being with one of the RAM chips (the Samsung K4D263238M-QC50 ones). I first reflowed the pins to U6D1 and U5F1 (the two RAM chips on the top side of the PCB - side with CPU and connectors) manually with a soldering iron. That did not solve things, so that at least let me know it was not an issue of solder/connection degrading. I ordered new RAM and began replacing each one individually. I first started with U6D1, removed the RAM package and replaced it with a new chip. No luck. I then did the same for U5F1, and that fixed it! My xbox boots with no error anymore. It's possible both RAM chips went bad, but that's unlikely; it was probably just the second one. If you run into this issue, and have the skills to perform this fix, be sure to order enough replacement RAM to replace all 4 chips, and replace each one individually, testing after each replacement (might save you some work). Also, I'd recommend using something like chip quik to aid in the removal of the RAM chips. I didn't have any on me this time, but it would have made this a bit easier and safer for the PCB. Good luck and be patient!

Thanks SS_Dave! Does that mean there's a possible failure with one of the Samsung K4D263238M chips? If so, is it reasonable to just replace both of them (I'm very comfortable doing so, and the chips are relatively cheap)? Didn't know if the lower signal voltage was indication of something possibly wrong with the PSU. I can definitely try giving the board a better cleaning in the meantime. Thanks!

Hello, I've been lurking around here for a couple days, but haven't found anyone with the same issue so I thought I'd ask. I have a v1.0, never modded, xbox (original and only owner). Last time I used it (about a year ago), it was working great, but when I turned it on the other day, it attempted to boot three times, then started flashing red and orange. I was able to get it to boot after restarting it a few times, and I played through a game for about 5 min (then game froze due to a scratch, I'm pretty sure), but I have not been able to get it to start up again since (just 3 reboots and FOAR). If I hit the disc eject button once it's FOAR, the TV will show the green blob come on screen (it freezes after less than a second), but I'll continue to hear the music that goes with it (haven't left it on long enough to see if it goes to main menu and i can hear the sound of changing menu selection). I've seen a few '3 reboots and FRAG' articles, so I'm curious if this is the same situation, but maybe error colors are different for the earlier xboxes? Based on what I've read so far, I've checked the following: Cleaned the innards of most of the dust (had never opened it up in my 18+ years of ownership) LPC traces are undamaged (even did continuity check for sanity sake) Reseated all connectors Checked PSU voltages -- this was an interesting one, all voltages were correct, except for the power on signal (pin 11/teal wire), which i measured to be be 2.6V, not 3.3V Clock cap wasn't bulging, but it does look like it leaked a little, so i removed that, cleaned the area, but I don't see any damaged traces I'm planning on replacing all the caps on the board as a next step, but I'm wondering if anyone has an idea for something else worth testing to figure out what might be causing the error state. I'm so curious if the 2.6V power on signal is an indicator of anything. Does that get set by the CPU or the PSU? Thanks in advance for any ideas or suggestions!