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Since this is my first post (long time lurker) I just want to say I appreciate everyone who devotes time to making this console better than ever 20+ years after it released, as well as the knowledge I have read in others posts as it is extremely helpful, you guys rock. Now to my question - I recently installed a rp2040 tiny using modzville's adapter board on a friends xbox and it works great! Now that PrometheOS is supported on the Modxo, I flashed it to my friends box and the led on the rp2040 tiny started working, and you could change the colors through the PrometheOS settings. Last night I finally got around to building another one and putting it into my personal xbox, it also works great but for some reason I cannot get the led on my 2040 to light up. Both tinys used are waveshare brand. My xbox is rev 1.0 and my friends is 1.1 (if this makes any difference as both boards look almost the same). I am not sure where the issue resides. Does anyone have any ideas for me to try? Thanks in advance!
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My xbox is moded with AladinXT 2 plus and Cerbios, i have a 80 conductor ide cable with a marvel 88sa8040 chip look exactly like the startec ones but got them on aliexpress for 2$ a very long time ago. I wonder why XblastOS report a 40 conductor wires. With some hdd im able to set udma 6 but find it slow when entering games folder on xbmc4gamers... maybe i juste expect too much for this old xbox.
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What format dvd can I use with the Philips because I used the verbatim dvd+r with the RW logo and every single time it won’t boot a game at all. Unless I have original disc
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Hey guys, I recently turned on my OG Xbox after MANY years in storage (mostly temperature controlled storage) and I had no idea about the issues about the capacitors and so on. The DVD Drive and HDD seems to still be working fine with no issues. All of my old data was still there and I wanted to save the data to a memory card. I have learned that it is possible to save the data to a USB as well, but I think it might require a Softmod or something. The Fan still blows heat normally so it appears to be cooling the unit properly. Sadly I can't get the data from the drive at the moment. I tried to show plenty of pictures below as well. I have a few questions and concerns. Shortly after plugging in the unit I heard: -- 2 pops, but the console turned on and ran fine for a while (XB Dashboard and within a game). -- After a while my video went fuzzy\scrambled, reset and it started to FRAG during the game. (2 resets and Red\Green blinking) with no video). -- No smoke\smell or anything and I was able to open the tray to remove my disk. -- Same results after hard reset (FRAG). I did some research and learned more about the capacitor issue. I didn’t know any of this stuff before. I saw 2 busted capacitors from what I can see (those 2 pops). -- The Clock capacitor, which I eventually removed + cleaned the area (top and bottom) -- The PSU appears to have one leaking capacitor. Clock Capacitor: Battery Cap Leak - https://i.postimg.cc/jdfhZk4D/Fresh-leak.jpg Acid Corrosion - https://i.postimg.cc/BnGBycmM/Corroding-leak.jpg Battery Leak Cleaned - https://i.postimg.cc/9QtYjRSV/Cleaned.jpg Bottom of board Cleaned - https://i.postimg.cc/sfqcPR7F/Bottom-Cleaning.jpg Not knowing any better I let the clock “acid” sit there for a few days before cleaning because I was thinking about sending it in for repairs or something, but after reading more I decided to open it up and remove the Clock cap. It was pretty much corroded at this point and the leaked acid started to look horrible on my board. I cleaned it with 91% alcohol + Q-tips. For the corrosion I also scrapped some of the left over residue and kept wiping the entire area gently. The spill traveled further than I originally though. I checked the bottom of the board and saw a light cloudy color, but nothing too serious so I cleaned it up as well. Since the board was opened I decided to clean\wipe down the entire board from top and bottom. The board was in great condition, not too dirty\dusty, but since I had it opened….why not right? Power Supply Unit: PSU Cap Leak A - https://i.postimg.cc/Fs0jjkhc/PSU-Capacitor-lea-A.jpg PSU Cap Leak B - https://i.postimg.cc/447vxFMW/PSU-Capacitor-leak-B.jpg PSU Cap Leak C - https://i.postimg.cc/W1ngyRF1/PSU-Capacitor-leak-C.jpg PSU Cap Leak D - https://i.postimg.cc/8CzMQyMB/PSU-Capacitor-leak-D.jpg PSU Cap Leak E - https://i.postimg.cc/j27y3LNp/PSU-Capacitor-leak-E.jpg PSU Bottom A - https://i.postimg.cc/PfgWpQnT/PSU-Bottom-A.jpg PSU Bottom B - https://i.postimg.cc/P5h1Kfq7/PSU-Bottom-B.jpg Based on my research I have an Xbox v1.3 revision. The PSU capacitor leak looks fine on the bottom of the PSU and it appears that I have one of the “reinforced” PSUs that should not spark or cause a potential fire due the power connector\solder joint issue (constant insertion and removal of the power cable from what I’ve learned so far). Also, I did NOT wipe the PSU clean\wipe down top and bottom and honestly I didn’t want to touch it. Can someone tell me how long it takes for the PSU to drain and becomes much safer to handle? I know that PSUs (not just OG Xbox’s) can hold a charge for a very long time after being unplugged. I never touched it while cleaning the Clock capacitor leak. I let it (PSU) sit for roughly 10 days so I suppose it was safe to handle. I wasn't going to touch it, but I wanted to check the bottom of the PSU to see if there was any damage. I pretty much pulled it out and re-installed it by using the cabling and not even touching the damn thing. I have a Foxlink PSU, but I wanted to replace it with another one of the three brands. I believe they are interchangeable from what I’ve read. I noticed that the cable “color” was a bit different on the Delta, but the pinouts are the same I believe. I have the OG Xbox surge protector on the way just to be safe. Before investing into another PSU I was wondering what could be the harm in plugging in my current Foxlink with the leaking capacitor that already popped just to check and “see” if the console boots with no errors. If it boots to the Dashboard then I could turn it off and place the order for a replacement unit. Any potential issues with trying this before spending money on a PSU? Also I'd like to know an estimated amount of time that the PSU can hold a charge.
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The more I check my Xboxes the more I find. Today I popped another open, it's been working perfectly but had some caps gone, different ones to I have been finding though, they're the more solid type caps. The guy I had do my modchips two decades ago seemed to like sticking on heat sinks, maybe to make his work seem premium, unusual place to bother putting one though I think. Anyway, here are the caps that I believe are popped. I'm not even sure what that mod chip is, I was able to put Cerbios 2.42 on it with XblastOS no problems. The board looked nasty around the two caps so I've cleaned that all up with a spray can of electroncis PCB cleaner. Here's the full board, they're the only bad looking caps, the clock caps been removed at some point thankfully. This is a zoom in after the clean up, it came up pretty good I think. Now what caps can I buy to fix those two? Hopefully I can source some locally somewhere to speed up the process. I have these in my Xbox parts collection, will these do the trick? I can't read much on the others but do see they're 6.3v. Thanks in advance for the caps advice and identifying the mod chip. I just noticed it has a Foxlink PSU so I popped it out for a look and found this What is this brown stuff? Scorch marks on the bottom of the case Otherwise it looks OK -
Yesterday I was FTPing some emulators and apps and everything was going good, I would reboot every now and then for things to save. After I rebooted again now my hard drive doesn’t boot at all and the world xbox and xecuter 2 stay on the title screen and it just hangs there and freezes up, it keeps on happening, idk if I could fix it or if it’s even worth it to. Any help would be appreciated. This was a modded console I was gonna give to my brother, I didn’t mod it myself but would like to learn in the future how to. Thank you. -
As the title says, there are many Xbox games out there that don't have a trainer. Does anyone out there have the knowledge required to create them? IIRC they originally were only made by a couple of small teams back in the day and it seemed that the creation process was kinda kept in house. With all the homebrew etc that been created over the years no one has ever seemed to take on the task of creating any of the missing trainers, Is it such a huge undertaking that it's not worth the effort or is there specific equipment needed (a devkit etc) to make them? I have zero coding knowledge myself so would struggle to produce anything even if the step by step instructions were under my nose
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See pics, I know it’s a remote on and off mod but is not the usual Xerc. I have the install down EXCEPT for the 2 power cables (purple and white)… looking for the source so I can work out where those two go!!
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As the title says, i am after someone who has a broken X3cp, Specifically i am after a replacement button from the front of the panel. I have a Crtystal panel but unfortunately over the years the write protect button has fallen off and is now missing Is there anyone out there who has one that i can buy from them for a reasonable price??? Or even someone who has a 3d printer that can print a replacement button??? I know its a long shot but i hope theres someone out there who can make my xbox look perfect again
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I guess I deleted my copy of it, who knows. Does anyone in the forum have it and able to update the download links?
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Or maybe i locked it in my inexperienced days? Anywhoo im curious as to if there is a way to unlock said drive without the eeprom..i still have the board but no power supply for it as i abandoned it and went to work on my 1.6 but i do still have the mobo and associated sister boards. Is my only hope resurrecting the 1.4 board or can i pull the eeprom without power to it? I have an Aladdin chip if i need to go that route...any help would be appreciated. -
Hi, good morning. I have a PAL Xbox and I noticed that XBMC4Gamers is always running un 5pHz mode regardless the PAL-60 setting on the MS Dashboard, and in the options I have not found anything related. Is it possible to set XBMC4Gamers to PAL-60? I mean the dashboard itself, not the games. Thanks,
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i, like many others, started having problems with my xbox after replacing the thermal paste. graphics glitching, freezing, frag'ing, and sometimes it would just go into a coma on me. it appears that the problem is that some of the solvent for cleaning the thermal paste gets underneath the gpu chip and causes a short. 1st off, i do not recommend replacing the thermal paste on these consoles but if u already have and are now having problems then here is how to fix it. get a bottle of 91% rubbing alcohol with a squirt top on it(i suggest a quart bottle), hold the motherboard on it's side, and squirt the alcohol all over it. be certain that plenty is going under the gpu. next, take a hair dryer and dry the board very well. be careful not to get it too hot. a good rule of thumb is that if any part of the board is uncomfortable to lay your hand on and keep it there, then it is too hot and should be allowed to cool. next, sit the board in the xbox, hook up the psu, connect a tv and power on the system a few times to be certain that it appears to be working before full reassembly. BE CERTAIN TO REAPPLY THERMAL PASTE AND HEATSINKS BEFORE POWERING ON! i'm not certain that it will overheat the chips without the heatsinks for a quick test but it isn't worth the risk. this fixed my xbox that i was concerned i had forever killed. -
I'm doing a first install of a 2TB HDD and trying to squeeze as many games on it as possible, and hoped that if I could create multiple 256GB (or smaller) partitions it would cut down on cluster size and I'd fit a lot more on it. Is this possible or is the only option a bigger drive? -
Hello, I have a transparent blue faceplate that I never installed on an xbox and was wondering if it was still worth anything, or if the market is no longer there. I was thinking about putting it on eBay soon, but I don't know anything about what to list it as or even if it's still worth my time to do. Backstory - My mom bought me a team xecuter chip and face plate over a decade ago, I tried to solder the header pins onto the jtag and melted the plastic on them. I freaked out because I worried that ruined something expensive (I was a dumb kid) and just stored everything. A couple years ago I made a computer case out of the XBOX case and found it in my xbox stuff. I looked it up and found it was desirable. Since then, my life has been one crazy thing after another; 2 jobs, moving, kid, covid, and I just haven't been able to carve out time to sell it. Thanks -
check the top xbox! yeah they are listed as faulty but gotta be worth the risk!!
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I create ROM Hack for original xbox game but it require to patch 29 file! Xdelta and others they only patch 1 file *Note my game is HDD rip (files) not iso
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Looking for 720p patches that actually work properly. My console is 128mb ram modded. All links here are dead and really want a working Godfather patch. Cheers
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Don't feel like taking off my panel to check, but I coulda sworn I saw a pcb in front of the ir window on my Control Panel. Do I just have to get a compatible remote?
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Hello everyone, Sorry if this is in the wrong place but as the title says, I'm relatively new to the OG Xbox, it's an awesome console but seems to be pretty complex as well. I have a softmodded 1.6 Xbox. The first issue/question I have is when I turn the console on, it boots in 4:3 and SD even though it's connected with a Chimeric HDMI adapter, also in some guys like 007 Nightfire, it's pretty blurry almost like it's running in SD, is this an issue with 1.6 Xboxes? If that is an issue with 1.6 consoles, whether it's because of the Xcaliber encoder or whatever, what is the best revision to use on HDTV's with HDMI adapters like the Chimeric one or the Xedusa? Thanks to anyone who can help!
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Hey guys, my softmodded 1.6 box with a SATA adapter in it is taking a while to boot up and I'm wondering if the drive is on its way out. I'd like to be able to clone the drive to a SATA SSD I have lying around but every drive cloning tutorial I see out there involves hotswapping an IDE drive. How would I accomplish this? -
I have a modchip - currently unknown, I did it 10 years ago... Considering simplifying things and doing a tsop flash instead. So I know that the mod disables the onboard tsop (d0) so without enabling the chip, and disabling the mod, I cant access the tsop. But with the mod disabled, I cant boot unsigned, and therefore none of the flashing tools. So, am I correct is saying that once the mod is removed, I will need to soft mod, then flash? Is there another way? Switch on the d0 line maybe? boot to flasher, unplug mod (pin header install, and disconnect d0. is that even possible? Open to suggestions... Or.. I could just leave it alone... -
Just thought I would start this thread as a kinda fun thing. Given most of us have modded Xboxes, got me wondering what people are doing thats technically not modding, or using it in a way the thing supposed to be. To this end I bring you The OGXbox door stop This is a limited edition, they only made one in clear as far as I know. Seriously when we have the doors and windows open in the house in the summer the near constant breeze always finds the doors and slams them shut. Doorstops are not great in our house as between pets and children they just disappear. So what better than a heavy old OGXbox to stop the door open. Yes in the UK we have so many Clear boxes we are tripping over them. -
Hi. I was wondering if the XCM ruby red has different tints of color; are there different batches of it? See how in the second picture, it looks a lot duller in color??
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Hello everyone. I just finished TSOPing an Xbox model 1.1 and decided I wanted to flash Cerbios 2.01 Retail, and after flashing I have a red/green flashing light with no picture. The system is hooked up via composite (yellow, red and white) video cables and now I have no picture. I cannot access FTP, either. I was also sure to FTP over the Cerbios.ini and boot animations to the root of C ahead of flashing. Can anyone help or point me in the right direction? Thank you.
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Board Life Status
Board startup date: April 23, 2017 12:45:48