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What is the best way to upgrade 1.6 Softmodded Xbox Hard drive.

Hey, I've done a RAM upgrade on one of my consoles (1.4) and it's doing the on/off/on/off/on flash orange and red dance. I've reflowed the chips, scoured them with a magnifying glass for bridging and the rest of the board for splashes, and scrubbed the board with IPA hoping that if it was a splash, it'd be knocked loose, but I've had no luck. I'm at the point where I think it might just be some bad memory, so what would be the best way to remove the chips without damaging or moving the surrounding components?

whiel i stated in my introduction post i had a Modded OG from the late 2000's to just about 2 years ago, i kinda kept to a handful of emulators (didnt wind up updating much)and played a few HDD Ready games. used it up till i got a RaspberryPi 3 for a Media Center. I Just recently snagged another OGXbox and upgraded it's HDD, i'm blind pretty much to what's changed in the intervening years. whats the best way to approach Emulation now? has there been any decent Homebrew games? outside Youtube, has any other Media service been restored? (Netflix/Plex) (i've got a nice Huge CRT TV to set this Xbox up with..)

Hello I have an X3 modded XBOX. I've noticed a thread elsewhere on OGXBOX mention the Origins 2TB from Arcade Punks. So I'm giving that a go out of curiosity. I'm still trying to use MultiPAR to fix the RAR files with the PAR2 files. Then I'll jump on the torrent to finish it. But I have other consoles and Launchbox set up so emulation isn't the main driving force, its the XBOX games and homebrew. I'm just wondering if there is a full 2TB XBOX games image anyone recommends or should I go with, that has all the boxes on view like I have set up in Launchbox? I current have XBMX4XBOX as my dashboard. If I remember correctly, is there a Windows app that I can transfer the extracted images (I presume its still this way rather than copy the ISO) to the drive while attached to my PC as this would be much quicker? Thanks in advance

Hey guys! My friend was looking into getting a pre modded (Whether it be hard or soft modded) xbox to play with me and a group of others! I was wondering, Is there any place in particular that's best to buy these from? Is there a forum section here for buying, or a website that's very good for buying these kinds of xboxs? naturally my first thought is ebay, but I wanted to know what some of you guys think! ^^ Edit: Just realized, sorry if this is the wrong section, meant to do it in general discussion, not the collection showcase ^^;

Been trying to get my head around the best way to install games. I think I got it sorted, could I get some feedback please? Start with ReDump style ISOs. Next step depends if there's anti-piracy protection (determined by going through the DVD2Xbox ACL files, eg. ACL for TOCA 3) If there's protection, just remove the video partition and leave the game partition untouched. dd if=redump.iso of=game_data.iso skip=387k bs=1k Otherwise, use extract-xiso (which now has ReDump support) to convert it into a compatible XISO and shrink the size. extract-xiso.exe -r "redump.iso" If the resulting ISO is > 4gb, use XISO Split to split into smaller files. FTP the ISO file to F/G:\\Games Run the "XISO to HDD Installer" script in xbmc4gamer Source of most of my assumptions: https://www.ogxbox.com/forums/index.php?/topic/1134-xiso-playing-games-from-xbox-hdd-using-iso-images/page/5/ Thanks everyone.

As in the title, my xbox is TSOP'ed and splited with a switch for dualboot.

Listing of materials tested: OSSC V1.6 Chimeric HDMI Konig component Full RGB AV+optical Composite original Pound (2020) Mcable gaming Mclassic Monster component x400 Monster component x200 Variety of wall chargers and HDMI cables All the combinations and configurations had tested. Tested with 4 TV and two Xbox : V 1.6 no modded, V1.0 XBMC ( when it was possible, but no one did consequential differences ) Winner! Xbox+Chimeric+Mclassic (green led (alimented wall)) +Mcable gaming (alimented wall). Explanation The monster component x400 was a little better than konig component, and the monster x200 was like composite because the three plugs are video x1 and stereo x2. Not three RGB like I had thinking. Next, I tested all settings of the OSSC expecting upgrade my video with a HDMI solution. The picture was worst than the monster. With the good material, perhaps it's possible. But the OSSC loose always a part of the signal, event it is alimented. The pound (with mini usb port) was very poor. Yes, it's very better than composite but: Green filter. Not very sharp etc. But it's wasn't a problem because I had bet all on the Chimeric. Finaly, I recived the chimeric, and horror, the monster component smashes far more once again , with is colors very realistic and the picture very compatible with the signal source. I pluged the Mcable and the Mclassic, but this changed nothing. I thinking pass all my life with monster x400. There was some additionnal issues like horizontal lines "flapping" or noise in the textures. After to have expected an issus of fabrication, I Shipped an message to Chimeric system. Before to receive a response, I had set up the stuff again, and this is it! It work fine. Mclassic was alimented in the pc port, but we need to put it in the wall. We need to find the perfect Tv setting too because the signal is different of any sources. So the best mode need to be (desatured with wider spectrum. All spectrum of light and colors). Now it is better than the monster component. And better than the chimeric only. The stuff do all that it must to do. But, after that, I upgraded the output video another time with an astuce. I bought some different wall charger more powerful and the video become consequently much higher. Now with the good wall charger. It's a masterpiece. How setting this Winning combination. Xbox dashboard- Audio : Use Stereo if you have 2 speakers (or stereo+DTS). Souround + dolby for 5 speakers. Mclassic: Mode green. Alimented by a wall charger 5v- 1.8 A. Little bit hight or less. Mcable Gaming: Alimented by a wall charger 5v -2.4 A Tv(Flat): Here my setting for exemple : Contraste 100, Brillance 63, Couleur 50, Netteté 100, image-ia EF, cats HF, reduc HF If the TV has more pixels than the video source, zoomed in will not do appear new details in the pictures, but increase the sharpenes and clarity of theirs . See picture 1-2. A higher format TV will provide more sharpeness and natural with this set up. But it's the inverse result with a cheap ultra-HD tv. Picture 3-4. The winnig TV was : 1080p Panasonic TC-L32U3. Second place : Panasonic TC-L32X5. The two other TV ultra Hd (were very bad) : LG 47LN5750-UH and SAMSUNG UN50TU7000F The V1.6 xbox, with Panasonic tv and Chimeric, added vertical shadow lines with halo 2 and halo 1 on the sky and on the pale background textures. But nothing else. It run perfectly since 2004. The V1.0 XBOX XBMC added horizontal artefacts with all the games and emulators. But don't has the precedent problem with the shadow lines. His cd drive works poorly. The second best set up was : Pound alimented wall (with the same settings and stuff) . Only switch the chimeric by the Pound. For exemple, the set up with Chimeric seem that. The monster component x400 do the best picture and sound for easy and low budget. And the colors are more natural than the Pound. Konig: AV component RGB+optical in one. Show details clear. Dont't blur. But did a video quality inferior than Monster x400. The V1.6 OSSC : With all the settings, in x1 and x2 too, and with two TV, did the signal and the colors loose their intensity. The picture was pale and bleach. And in X1, there was no global difference compared good component (except the previews problems). In x2, the game was pixelised like 2D 1987 games, without degrad. He was made for keep the squarred pixels of old console. He was not made for the Xbox or consoles 480p or more. Audio problems : Not make to transfer the best audio possible because he can not out put the audio by HDMI. To plug somewhere, it need an extra connector because the input is a jack 1/8. and that cause a losing of signal. He is not do for the Xbox or console 480p or more. Good Generique HDMI cable: Make the stone texture more natural than the mcable gaming, but was less good for the shiny-lustred surfaces and did the picture more pixelised. The mcable gaming did the surfaces that was clear or polish (like water, electricity, and metal) more realistic and upgraded. Halo2 has textures 3d-like based on the details of mapping. So, when I added extra signal boost with the wall chargers, and used the mcable gaming, it was like if new textures was appears. Chimeric: Added red filter with the TC-L32U3 TV, and perhaps very little with the samsung TV . He did thin shaded lines in the bleach textures of Halo2 with the V1.6 xbox. Pound: Added green filter impossible to remove completly. Plus has the same issu than the chimeric (horizontal shaded lines) but this lines were only with halo 2 on the panasonic TC-L32U3 and the xbox V1.6) Mclassic : Works with all. TV Cartoon too. Need wall charger of 1.8 A (approximately). The two modes don't affect the defenition. Only the resolution. Audio Souround 5.1=5 speakers . Stereo=two speakers. That mean that dolby souround on XBOX is useless if you don't have the stuff. Note that the sound was really better with a good component than with the composite. But, I noticed no audio differences between monster and this winning set up. My external stereo speakers cleared the sound compared to my internal tv speakers. If you want speakers, you need receiveur Yamaha. Speakers only don't work. If you want for gaming, select the speakers with a natural sound, and did for classic-JAZZ musics. Games need hight frequency sound ( metalic, robots, cars crash, bullet impacts, shield, bird cry, wind, radio, snap-crunch). And take speakers that have not box shape, to have realistic sound. I am using a Yamaha receiver R-s300 with two small Paradigm that have a rounded plastic shape. Finaly, the https://makemhz.com/ seems to be better than the chimeric. So I will change the chimeric for it and keep all the settings and materials in this set up. Thanks SS_Dave for help.

Hello! I have finally just got my XBMC install nearly to where I want it, and want to back it up in this state. What is the most ideal way of doing so? Should I just mount the drive in FatX and save each partition?

hello my friends i have an xbox 1.0 and i want to install modchip for what is best one for it and also mine works with 100.125 ac and i want to change it to 200.245 ac because iam living in kuwait how i can change that and can i change hetsink fan and use thermal grizzly thermal paste

I'm thinking the Ind Bios 5003-5004 as they also have support for 128mb ram

Hello All, I have an original xbox rev 1.3 and already installed an Executer 2.6CE modchip. I'm ready to order an upgraded 2TB or 3TB hard drive. I have been out of the scene for a long time and sure could use recommendations... Is this Seagate Barracuda the best choice? Or recommend something else that will be easiest? https://www.amazon.com/Seagate-BarraCuda-Internal-Drive-3-5-Inch/dp/B07H2RR55Q/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=st2000dm008&qid=1626155702&sr=8-3 Is there a better IDA to SATA interface than this one? https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Drive-Optical-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00EOJNGC2/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=IDE+to+SATA&qid=1626155999&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExMDIwM1JXUlg1VFg2JmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMDMwMzQ5MkFHQjZHTUxTRjQ0QSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwODk1Mjg4WVlMSk41WFlLTTk4JndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ== And this 80-pin cable ok? Any better one? https://www.amazon.com/s?k=40-Pin+80-Wire&i=electronics&ref=nb_sb_noss_2 Thank you! Robert

I'm an absolute cretin and have wanted to go for a paint job similar to the look of the official Mountaindew xbox but instead of neon green i'll have it as neon orange or something. What would you guys recommend?

Time passes by, so does the life of our OG Xbox Clock caps (if they are not removed already) but also technology in cap replacement options. So I wonder what the most Reasonable/ Convenient/ Easieast/ Safest/ Cost efficient/ Clock cap replacement of today could be? I know some people are not bothered without it and some people (lile myself) that would like to have it working Through the years I read that it can be everything inbetween replacing it with a 1F 2.5v original spec AeroGel cap, 10F 2.5v AeroGel for longer working time, a CR2032 battery socket with 1N4148 diod in series to prevent REcharge, which would not be good, 2.4v NiMh rechargable battery. My idea, not yet installed and tested, is to solder an AAA batteries socket with two 1.2v 800mA replaceable batteries to the old Clock Cap points and try to fit it in somewhere. The batteries gives 2.7v fully charged and would (theoretically, if the Xbox can give them enough charging) give more than enough unplugged power time and it would all in all cost around 5$. So now in 2020, what is your clock cap replacement (ideas, pictures, pros/cons, results)?

Looking for the best graphics games for Xbox, something I should not miss to play (but not just graphics, also balanced gameplay... nothing like Splinter Cell games for example, that has good graphics but awful gameplay)

what would you say is the best 2TB drive for OG Xbox? the one ive just put in my modded xbox sum time gets stuck on black screen other times takes a bit long to load dash

i've had issue with filezilla so what's a better one?

i'm not a fan of the "unleashx" dashboard. what are your recommendations?

When it comes to component to HDMI adapters I've seen a few people say there will be a noticeable loss in quality, however does this apply to modding an hdmi port onto the board and is it even worth it to do it?

I recently found my set of Monster Component Cables again for my OG Xbox, and I always remember loving the picture quality that came out of those cables. I had been using the Chimeric Systems HDMI adapter and have enjoyed it, but it seems to be producing these "visual" lines in the image that I'm unable to fix. (Shown in the picture below) I was curious to know if there were any recommended component to HDMI adapters that would work well? I can't use component straight up as I no longer have an input source that has its own component cables, so going with HDMI is a necessity. Thanks! (Picture of the "line" issue whilst using the Chimeric Systems HDMI adapter. Screen brightness is due to the picture being a snapshot in between "fading to white" transitions.)

Any opinions on which DVD drive variant is the best? I know they are all getting old and lacking in reliability now. I’ve got a Thomson in my OG 1.0 and a Philips in my OG1.1 and a Philips in a 1.6. I know my Thompson drive is very finicky about reading burned cds and some burned dvds (especially if only a small amount of data is written to it). It still reads official discs well enough when I’m not playing off of the HDD. The Phillips in my 1.1 seems to be much more forgiving when it comes to burned dvd media, and cd media. I can’t comment on the Philips in 1.6 As it is a recent addition, the seller said that it refused to open. When the system arrived I powered it up and was greeted to a copy of Manhunt (that probably needs to be resurfaced). What about blank media, any opinions out there? I typically use RiData for DVD media and Imation for CD media.

Hey everyone just found my old og xbox crystal went for the softmodding and tsop soldering just need to change the bios and im ready to go.... cannot wait to play jade empire A question which is the best bios and why, cannot seems to find a clear list online Thanks

So a while back I had the plan of driving RGB LEDs from my Xboxes LPC header with the help of an ESP32. Because of reasons we haven't really worked on that project any further yet. In the meantime @Ryzee119 created the OpenXenium project, which effectively makes things waaay easier than before as we can use the OpenXenium's SPI for communication with the ESP32. Now the only question is, where is the best place on the Xbox to take 3.3V from for powering the ESP32 and two single LEDs (+ some headroom for leds on the controller ports maybe)? Would it be safe to power that many components though the OpenXenium's or rather the LPC's 3.3V line? Also where can I take 5V from for the 24 LED pixel ring I want to put under the jewel?

Received an Xbox for spares I bought off Ebay. The thing I wanted it for was the working disc drive and all seems OK with that although it is my least favourite Philips VAD6011/21. The Xbox was listed as having error 16 - which it does so I was prepared just to swap out the disc drive but the rest is in pretty good nick, a bit of dirt and fluff on the the MB but all cleanable so I'm now thinking about actually trying to get it working again. But no extra cost so I'm not going to fit a chip or buy/build an eeprom reader (the eeprom of course is unknown) and I've been researching the best way of doing this. Rocky5 in another forum about a year ago posted about using Chimp 261812 on another Xbox and hot-swapping in the error 16 HDD (set to cable select) and using Chimp's Fix Error 16 option. Sounded good until the guy who was asking had trouble getting the HDD either to unlock or be recognised by Chimp. The solution that apparently worked was to use an installer disc instead of Chimp 261812 and actually hot-swap the error 16 HDD in for the main HDD and use HeXEn or whatever to install a softmod on that before swapping it back. Another solution I found suggested hot-swapping to an IDE USB adapter/housing and using either Xplorer360 or XBHDM USB to install a dashboard. I've had 'fun' with that sort of thing before and almost gave up trying to get the hot-swapped HDD to be recognised by Xplorer360 before it actually worked. So what method has worked for anyone else here wanting to fix an error 16 and is there some other, cost free, solution I've overlooked? BTW all the information I have suggests this is a Xbox v1.2: Conexant VE, Philips disc drive, 21st Feb 2003, China but I know there is difficulty distinguishing between the v1.2 and v1.3. I'd like it to be a v1.3 and then I'd have a full house but the evidence and my waters tell me this is a v1.2.

^