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About Zpidelius

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  1. Yepp, I have looked over that some, and such a NiMh would not be the best idea for a "plug and play". I have not measured the mA consumption of the xbox for keeping the date, but read that some say that to put a 2032 holder socket in it's place with a diod works, and some say it is not like the PC bios where it can last years and years but drains very quickly. I wonder where the Graphene scene are now, if it is comming small Graphene supercaps in the suiting size and 2.5v region in the nearby future. That would be a new addition for a clock cap replacement.
  2. I think i seen some parts of that video before, but must have missed that bit when he changes the clock cap. Looks like it's one of those NiMh 2.4v batteries. I've lookes around but never found any reviews how long they keep charged enough to keep the time etc, but can be worth a try and measure the results. Especially since some few 1.6 consoles seems to have begun to get leaking caps to, and they won't work without one.
  3. I have the Controller Tester Xbe somewhere in my collection, I just don't know where at the moment, but I can look it up. I never used that Hexen disc, so I can't tell what it installs, but I usually only install DVD2Xbox and Xb partitioner, that's the only apps I use.
  4. Function before form,, as long as it is internal and never seen Basically it is the same as a switch, either way you have to reach to the backside, flick a switch or unplugg the AV connector. Could mount a small DPST under the front of the xbox, but as I seldom use the AV cable since I managed to get my adapter vertical line free, an internal transistor is really interesting for me.
  5. Aah, that's a really good idea, like a automatic switching relay, only in transistor size Components and electronic theory is not my best area either, as software and such. I know more about hardware, soldering etc, but when it comes down to the level of components, I am mostly lost, except resistors and LED's,, so a transistor, never crossed my mind
  6. Things like these are latin for me when it comes to hardware I usually know what I am doing, but these software things,, I am totally lost. I just took some Ram's from a precious V1.1 i messed up many many years ago trying to do a Ram upgrade on, when I did not have any worthy equipment or knowledge, only a flattip 60w soldering iron, now I just used the BGA machine and they came of nice and tidy amd moved them to the 1.4.
  7. Well, I downloaded the files from Thingy, but have no idea what so ever how they work but I'll keep them incase I come across someone who have a 3D printer and knows about these things I made my first monstrous 128MB beast yesterday, and a built in HDMI adapter would be perfect in that console for a emu/arcade station.
  8. That's an alternative, but if I still have the AV port, I would like to be able to use composit too, just to be able to try it in between to see what difference it makes with HDMI I don't know anyone with a 3D printer, but maybe worth to save the giles for it incase I someday come across someone with a printer, I don't know how it even works, if you have to open the file and print it from a PC or if you can stick it to a USB or SD card and pop it right in the printer and go from there. I don't know how to delete picture either, it seems I have used mu quote too with the pictures of my games with diagonal lines in them and on a couple of Wii2HDMI pcb's
  9. Never thought of what they are actually I've seen some of those 3D printed Ideas, but I got the idea that it would be quicker to bend a pice of metall to a bracket and solder it to the HDMI housing and fasten it with the AV port screws, since I don't have neither a 3D printer or program to make such things How are you switching Mode when having both tye AV port and Wii2HDMI adapter? Using a DPST switch to bridge the Component output points?
  10. To be honest, I soldered mine towards the Conexant chip on the pictures a couple of post back,, Xcalibur maybe it is called in my 1.6, I don't remember the name,, maybe that was the problem with my installation I thought it could have something to do with internal fields interference. I thought it maybe had better/cleaner signal before the resistors and that the Wii2HDMI internal components took care of the more pure component signals.
  11. Woops, sorry, I seem to have double quoted
  12. Yes, I can only tell from the AV pinout schematic, but I jumped a pin when counting, so I missed one. Jaywalk101, search for "Wii2HDMI Retro Pro Frank" and you should find a very clear schematics over how to connect you Mode switches, that's how I found where I missed a pin, I don't know how they are on the MB itself, but you could always solder jumpers underneat the AV port pins. I have a 1.6 I made an internal Wii2HDMI mod in, but it still hade some wave lines, maybe to much interference inside for it to work flawlessly, so I removed all cables and the HDMI board and resoldered the origiginal AV port back,, going to make a AV plug-HDMI of that board insted, seems to work much better.
  13. I remember reading in some forum, I don't know if it is on one of those that are lost in time, that 10F seemed to be popular value fore those who replaced it back then, could keep the time for a week or two, if it is chargeing when the powercord is connected, 2-3 days would pass on by quickly. This is just a big theory,, but I wonder if there exists a small 5v driven 2.4v chargeing PCB that could work like a controller with positive output switch/relay? Instead of that the Cap circuit would have to try to recharge the batterypack. Then there maybe wold be the posibility to solder it to a 5v line in the console that recharge a small 2.4v NiMh battery pack or equivalent while powercord is connected, with the positive from batterypack switched off to the Cap connector positive point as long as the chargeing controller PCB has power, and when the 5v is turned off it switches to let the positive from battery pack to the Cap connector positive point? I don't know if the curcuit on the MB would handle to have a 2.4v battery pack connected to it via the Cap connector while a batterypack is being recharged. I just overthink simple things, but that would be an overkill cap replacement that would last for weeks and weeks, and keep thoughts of leaking cap and trace corrosion miles away for some years. The only cons I can think of is that NiMh don't seems to like to be stored uncharged for a period of time.
  14. It seems like 283-2776-ND 604-1034-ND 604-1149-ND should work. I wish we had those prices in north of Europe you can take those prices x5-6 for one of those caps here. Well, sorry to say, but I am not going to re-wire the house to be able to move my consoles around, and I don't goint to drag a miles long ethernet cable if I take it with me to some friends. The 1.6 consoles won't even start unless the clock caps are in place, so I just wan't to stick to the topic, what the best / most effective clock cap replacement could be now in 2020.
  15. Yes, that's true, did that sometimes through XBMC, but since I move my console from room to room sometimes and don't want to drag an 20m network cable back and forth. I am just a sucker for original/stock , so I would like to just have it working as it was originally intended, but with upgraded capacity with more modern components, since I just move it sometimes without plugging in the power cord and it stays there a couple of days or a week. I don't know if there would be sufficient power for recharge to use NiMh AAA batteries, otherwise I seen that there is 100F-500F 2.7v caps, so I may give those a try.

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