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I'm trying to softmod an old OG Xbox by doing a hotswap (since the DVD drive can't read games) on the original 8GB WD harddrive. I'm using "Amazon's Choice" usb adapter for whatever that's worth. Inateck USB 3.0 to IDE/SATA External Hard Drive Reader Applicable to 2.5"/3.5" HDD/SSD, with 12V/2A Power Supply, SA03001 https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-External-Reader-Applicable-SA03001/dp/B08BNPXSJ9 I can't tell if a) this adapter isn't supported or b) I'm not getting lucky (timing wise) with the hotswap keeping the drive unlocked. Any help is appreciated! If I use USB View it shows the device as: Loc[124] DeviceConnected: USB Mass Storage Device Device Descriptor: bcdUSB: 0x0300 bDeviceClass: 0x00 bDeviceSubClass: 0x00 bDeviceProtocol: 0x00 bMaxPacketSize0: 0x09 (9) idVendor: 0x1F75 idProduct: 0x0611 bcdDevice: 0x0006 iManufacturer: 0x04 0x0409: " When I try to see the device in FATXPlorer I get the following log: =====FATXplorer v3.0.0.24789 64-bit (x64) Log File START===== Runtime: .NET 7.0.3 OS Fingerprint: 3047bb3539608b94e41b5d78e5d1bc137edd101800e5ae889a3164cec688de07 [3/11/2023 4:19:13 PM] [Startup] FATXplorer is starting... [3/11/2023 4:19:13 PM] [Startup] MainForm initializing... [3/11/2023 4:19:13 PM] [Driver] Driver v22.0.8464.0 is installed and available. [3/11/2023 4:19:13 PM] [Startup] MainForm initialized. [3/11/2023 4:19:14 PM] [Startup] Startup complete, searching for devices... [3/11/2023 4:19:14 PM] [Device Detection] Search for devices starting [3/11/2023 4:19:14 PM] [Startup] FATXplorer is up to date. [3/11/2023 4:19:19 PM] [Device Detection] Found SCSI device "NVMe KXG70ZNV1T02 NVMe KIOXIA 1024GB" @ "\\.\PHYSICALDRIVE0" [3/11/2023 4:20:27 PM] [Device Detection] -OS disk, skipping [3/11/2023 4:20:27 PM] [Device Detection] Found USB device "WDC WD80 EB-28CGH1 USB Device" @ "\\.\PHYSICALDRIVE1" [3/11/2023 4:21:21 PM] [Device Detection] --Device doesn't support SMART [3/11/2023 4:21:21 PM] [Device Detection] -Checking security status... [3/11/2023 4:21:29 PM] [Device Detection] --Failed to check this device's security status, details: pd1: Unable to read USB device ID [3/11/2023 4:21:29 PM] [Device Detection] -Checking this device for HDD and MU storage... [3/11/2023 4:21:44 PM] [Device Detection] Device detection read failed at position 0x0000000000000000: The request failed due to a fatal device hardware error. : '\\.\PHYSICALDRIVE1' [3/11/2023 4:21:48 PM] [Device Detection] Device detection read failed at position 0x00000000007FF000: The request failed due to a fatal device hardware error. : '\\.\PHYSICALDRIVE1' [3/11/2023 4:21:52 PM] [Device Detection] Device detection read failed at position 0x0000000020E30000: The request failed due to a fatal device hardware error. : '\\.\PHYSICALDRIVE1' [3/11/2023 4:21:56 PM] [Device Detection] Device detection read failed at position 0x0000000130EB0000: The request failed due to a fatal device hardware error. : '\\.\PHYSICALDRIVE1' [3/11/2023 4:22:00 PM] [Device Detection] Device detection read failed at position 0x00000000ABE80000: The request failed due to a fatal device hardware error. : '\\.\PHYSICALDRIVE1' [3/11/2023 4:22:00 PM] [Device Detection] --Sector Format: N/A [3/11/2023 4:22:00 PM] [Device Detection] --Health: Healthy [3/11/2023 4:22:00 PM] [Device Detection] --Couldn't find any HDD or MU storage on this device [3/11/2023 4:22:00 PM] [Device Detection] -Finished checking this device for HDD and MU storage [3/11/2023 4:22:00 PM] [Device Detection] -Checking this device for Xbox 360 USB storage... [3/11/2023 4:22:41 PM] [Device Detection] --This device doesn't have any partitions [3/11/2023 4:22:41 PM] [Device Detection] -Finished checking this device for Xbox 360 USB storage [3/11/2023 4:22:41 PM] [Device Detection] -Finished with this device [3/11/2023 4:22:41 PM] [Device Detection] Search finished in 206.7 seconds

Dear Friends, I try to find a solderless adapter for my 8164B DVD drive to use it in my Xbox, but there is no any chance to get the "Talismoon 8164 Solderless Adapter" anywhere on the internet. (as you see it on the pic). I'd like to ask you, is there anyone, who has a complete schematics/PCB and a BIN file for "Atmel_Tiny12l" microprocessor? I think I try to build one for myself. Thank you for your help! BR: SiD

Finally found the time to test the Adapter PCBs i built to use an ATX Psu to power an Xbox. They are plug and play to easily switch between the original psu and an atx-psu.Might be usable for casemods or laptop builds. The adapter is built around the following basic schematic. It properly convert the Standby voltage from 5v to 3,3v and also shifts the power_ok and power_good signals to the correct levels. Also built a small version that can be used to build an extension cord style adapter to save some more space. Just let me know if you have any questions about them

Hey all, first post as I stumbled across this page while trying to research my halo edition xbox. I pulled it out of storage and wanted to sell it as I havent used it in forever and am fairly out of the video game collecting these days. Memory is pretty fuzzy on this as it's been awhile, but I bought this new when it came out, used it a good amount and then ended up putting the Xenium Ice modchip in with the solderless adapter. It's been in a closet for at least the past 10 years. I believe the hard drive and disc drive are original, almost positive I never replaced those. I hooked it all up and tested it, works great, the only game I had laying in the closet with it was Sneak King, so I tossed that in to confirm the drive still worked, no issues. The case looks great, no cracks. It is missing one of the rubber feet. Controller, power and video cables are the original ones that came with it. I'd like to get $300 + shipping for it, but am open to offers. Pics attached and happy to take others if anyone needs.

Decided to post about my ATX to Xbox adapters as i've been contacted about them a couple times now. I won't build more of them in the future as it's quite a time consuming process but you can order the PCBs and build them yourself. The bill of materials is printed on the bottom layer and assembly is pretty straight forward too. The solder work isn't hard to do so even a beginner is able to get it done! You can order the PCBs here: Rev1.0-Rev1.1 Rev1.2-Rev1.5 The ATX Port and Cables can be reused from a dead (or unused) Xbox PSU and motherboard. The end result might look like this 2 examples here:

Currently it's the cheapest on eBay, for my location (found some Startech ones, which are generally most suggested online, but they cost 50€ wth). Asking this because last time I tried another adapter (this one), Slayer Evox installer didn't recognize it (showed 0 for all partitions on the main screen, then faked to formating and copying files -very quickly).

i bought a cheap adapter on ebay. it doesnt have a master/slave adjustment. is that needed?

Hi, I have a 160GB IDE drive in use but i want to swap it for a bigger 2TB HDD. I bought 2 cheap IDE/SATA converters from Ali (different brands) but both keep failing. Anybody a suggestion for a good one? Thank you!

I have a 1.0 model xbox with a faulty 3rd party PSU installed by a previous owner, I also have a 1.4 with a bad video out port that I use as a parts console. I was wondering if there is anywhere I could buy a 1.4 PSU to 1.0 PSU adapter so I can swap the 1.4 PSU in, or if there is a pinout diagram so I can do the pin swap myself. Thanks

I’m attempting to fix a friends unmodded 1.0 Xbox with a dead HDD (error 7). I’ve successfully extracted the EEPROM using PiPROM and prepared a new IDE HDD with FATXplorer. However I’m having trouble locking the replacement Seagate ST3320620A IDE HDD which according the Xbox Hard Drive Compatibility Chart supports locking. Initially I used an IDE to USB adapter but XboxHDM23USB Beta 3 and 4 complained about an unknown USB chipset. I then tried a StarTech PATA2SATA3 IDE to SATA adapter which progressed a little further but still fails with “ATA SECURITY SETPASS failed: scsi error aborted command”. The output from XboxHDM23USB Beta 4 shows that the HDD is in the frozen state which I believe prevents unlocking/locking. If this is causing the failure, how can I unfreeze the HDD? Can I use some other utility such as hdparm to lock the HDD?

Shoot offers tested and working selling as bundle xenium ice chip along with xenium sp ice solderless adapter.

Hello all DONT BUY CHEAP ADAPTERS i installed a SATA to IDE adapter ages ago and now having problems with ERROR 13 when using the HD swap trick with the OG 8gig the new SATA would work again, but this was a false hope as I have now realised the actual adapter is the fault of error 13 i purchased this adapter https://www.amazon.co.uk/Multibao-Interface-Adapter-Converter-Parallel/dp/B08VR9YQ3C/ref=asc_df_B08VR9YQ3C/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=499393282480&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=13086529900178308512&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9045594&hvtargid=pla-1251257650787&psc=1 and have found there to be acid on the board and the capacitor is loose DON’T BUY THIS ADAPTERS

I purchased a xbox communicator adapter hoping I would be able to use a stereo 2.5 mm plug. I am unable to fit the plug to the adapter b/c of raised edge interference. I rather use what I have if possible. What are my options? Do I disassemble the adapter leaving half intact. Do I file down the raised edges so the jack is flush. Does anyone know where I can get an old mono headset with mic used for cell phones 2.5 mm plug? Does anyone know if there is a 2.5 mm cable extension that would fit or is it all proprietary. I am having difficulty disassembling the communicator adapter, it seems to catch at the top, I don't know why. Has anyone disassembled one before?

Hi all, ive been using the chinese style adapters from ebay but the price has been creeping up on them so thought i would source a bulk from alibaba, they looked the same on the pics so thought i would be good to go, i ordered 10. they work but the console takes ages to go from the xbox splash screen (without the microsoft tag) to the little microsoft tag appearing at the bottom (15 - 20 seconds as opposed to 1 or 2 seconds with the other adapters), once that has appeared they work fine, everything else is the same speedwise. looking at these adapters they actually look better quality, even the master/slave jumper comes in its own little bag, one other thing I've noticed is they work with the standard 40 pin ide cable whereas the other chinese adapters only worked with an 80 pin. anyone had any experience of these?

I want to adapt a PicoPSU to a 1.6 xbox. Just wondering if anyone has done the ATX adapting to a 1.6. If so how did you deal with the 5V always on? I think this may be advantageous since there probably wont be quite the inrush on power on for the 5V rail. I was thinking of either the following: 1.) Using a relay to switch between the 5VSB and the main 5V supply when switched on. 2.) Connecting the 5VSB and main 5V supply from the ATX supply. Anyone have any thoughts?

I don't like that the Startech SATA-IDE adapter doesn't have a case, so I designed one for it, and thought I'd share it. It's printed in two halves and snaps together (if all goes well). sata-adapter-case.stl

I wanted to switch out the stock fan for a Noctua and still retain some of the OG look and feel, this is the result. Maybe it will be of use to someone else as well. The design is up on Thingiverse and PrusaPrinters, whichever you fancy. Print instructions are there as well. Enjoy. PS. I'm also working on a design that's more compact and easier to print (in two or three parts), I'll post it if I ever get around to completing it.

I was given two broken original Xbox consoles to try and fix. After fixing the issues with one of them, I tried to test it. As I didn't have a controller for it I bought an adapter like the one in the picture (Adapter) to try and use either a USB arcade stick or one of my wired controllers for PC, Xbox 360, or Xbox One. I eventually bought a controller for it as I could not get anything to work with this adapter. So I am wondering, does this adapter serve any purpose? Has anybody gotten an arcade stick kit like the one in the second picture to work on the original Xbox?

Results Below! I compare load times while controlling all variables of the startech ide2sat2 adapter vs the cheap adapter that most people recommend. There are significant differences in both price and performance. cheapo ux bootup 2:28 - 3:09 = 41 seconds halo 2 load 4:11 - 4:56 = 45 seconds coinops dd3 5:42 - 6:25 = 43 seconds startech ux bootup 8:00 - 8:20 = 20 seconds halo2 load 10:05 - 10:25 = 20 seconds coinops dd3 10:57 - 10:40 = 43 seconds CoinOps was 43 seconds for both tests. This implies that the wait isn't due to throughput of the storage device but rather the zip extraction of the cpu.

With the eventual goal of creating a very slimmed down xbox I took one of the cheap SD to IDE adapters and modified it into this. Desoldered the existing male header; soldered a female header onto the back for a direct motherboard connection. Soldered the power connection to the DVD header to keep wires from running across the board. Unfortunately this meant the openxenium install was to tall; so that got a direct solder to the motherboard.

I put together a package with all the software needed. I also included the SVF file generated by ISE's impact. This is now the easiest method for programming OpenXenium's CPLD chip. After setup, it's just one click. Merry Christmas and enjoy! https://sites.google.com/view/xc9500xl-with-openocd-ft232r/home

This might interest those that want to turn their retail/debug Xbox into a fully-functioning development kit without having to spend $500+ on one. It works on any version 1.0 through 1.2 motherboard and can be great for troubleshooting crashes of all kinds without requiring the use of XDK software. I'm selling pre-made units for $30 plus shipping and would also like to get a feel for how many might want one in Europe so I can bulk-ship to a distributor to help save some on shipping costs as it's usually around $15 USD to ship from the US otherwise. Everything is fully open-source if you'd like to build/sell them yourself as well. Any questions, feel free to ask. https://github.com/XboxDev/serial-usb-adapter

Alright guys. The time has come. Here I'm gonna be adding an internal WiFi adapter to my OG Xbox because, lets face it, Wires are ugly, they get chewed by your dogs and people trip over them. and come on WiFi in an OG Xbox!! Heres a list of Tools and Materials you'll need Torx T20 Torx T10 Soldering Iron Solder Drill with assorted bits Wire Cutters Heatshrink or Electrical Tape Multi-Meter Dremel with cutting disc or small hand saw. Assorted files or sand paper Wireless bridge gaming adapter RP-SMA Female to Male Pigtail Rj45(Ethernet) Female to Male adapter some Motherboard standoffs with matching screws I got the idea from the youtube user "Thewheelman282" Link to video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3zG8DQ3Omfk To start you'll need to pull apart your console. I'm not gonna explain how to because there are Many sources for this elsewhere. Next you need to figure out where you want to mount the adapter. again I'm doing what he did in the video and mounting it to the bottom of the DVD drive. If doing the same you'll need to pull apart your DVD drive too. Every drive is different, mine is a Samsung with 4 screws on the bottom. Once you have the bottom half of your drive, You'll want to Pull apart your adapter and mark out your mounting holes. Now use your drill to drill them out. Start small, you can always make the hole bigger if you need to. Time to add the MoBo standoffs, I used 6 of them and cut the screw part off the ones that go inside the drive. Now you can mount your adapter and put your drive back together. Now its time to start cutting wires. Get your multi-meter and determine what wires you need to splice into. Since my adapter uses 5v I used Pin 01(Ground) and Pin 08(5V) Heres the Pinout for the Drive side of the DVD plug Next your gonna need to figure out where you want your adapters Ethernet port to be. I used the same location as in the video for simplicity. Now your gonna want to get your RJ45(Ethernet) Male to Female converter/Extension and see if it will fit. (Mine did not so i had to trim it down) In the process of trimming it, I nicked a few wires so I had to pull it completely apart to trace each pin with a multi-meter and solder each wire back into place. (Dont make the same mistake I did and take your time!!) I was impatient and rushing. now you can Take your dremel and start cutting the hole for your RJ45 port, Once cut it should look something like this.(Again I was rushing, So its not as clean as Id like it to be) you'll want to test fit the plug, then clean up the cuts with a file or sand paper. Then mount your new port to the top of the existing one. I used a few drops of Super glue to accomplish this. \ Now you'll need to drill a hole for your RP-SMA Pigtail. (Antenna extension wire) I chose to put it beside the Ethernet ports. Ignore ignore the hole by the Ethernet port. Thats for my USB ports. I put a piece of heatshrink around the metal antenna connector so it doesnt cause any shorts or problems once its put back together \ Its a tight sqeez but everything fits inside nicely, just be patient while your putting things back where they go. Now you can put it all back together so you can Admire all your hard work and enjoy your now Wireless Xbox. Let me know what you guys think. This is my FIRST Tutorial/Write up. Tried to give clear info, If you need any additional info ill be glad to help out.

Does anyone know the jack size for the 6V 1A power adapter used for this thing? All the ebay sellers that have the power supply blur out the model number and overcharge.

I recently found my set of Monster Component Cables again for my OG Xbox, and I always remember loving the picture quality that came out of those cables. I had been using the Chimeric Systems HDMI adapter and have enjoyed it, but it seems to be producing these "visual" lines in the image that I'm unable to fix. (Shown in the picture below) I was curious to know if there were any recommended component to HDMI adapters that would work well? I can't use component straight up as I no longer have an input source that has its own component cables, so going with HDMI is a necessity. Thanks! (Picture of the "line" issue whilst using the Chimeric Systems HDMI adapter. Screen brightness is due to the picture being a snapshot in between "fading to white" transitions.)