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Hi all, I've recently bought this adapter , I connected it to the power and the data cables (Seagate SATA 250gb drive 3.5"), inserted Slayer Evox 2.7 DVD, but it stucks a bit into the Xbox splash screen (while showing the pink icon on the top-left, no "Slayer Evox 2.7" appears below the Xbox logo) before giving me Error 16. So I switched back to the old PATA drive, Evox launched correctly, switched the drives (while Evox still running) but : - when I format, it takes ages and returns '0' on each partition - when I try to lock/unlock it freezes (blank text on blue container) - when I try install as new large hdd it takes to formatting - when I try to install just Evox on C it takes weirdly no time (after formatting all partitions took ages as usual). Edit: I just tried, left the console for a while, then returned and as before all partitions shown '0' and when I reboot (thinking the install process was complete) same Error 16 as before, sometimes error 7 So what I'm supposed to do? FYI: the adapter has no "slave/master" thing on it, just the 40 pins and the power ones (but it seems making the hard drive working/sounding).

Hey all, as the title implies I'm wondering if anyone has any extra PCBs for an ATX to Xbox 1.0 adapter, as posted by N64 Freak and available here: http://dirtypcbs.com/store/designer/details/7953/6277/xboxatx-zip The price for a batch of ~10 is a bit more than what I'm hoping to spend so curious if anyone's already purchased a batch inside the continental US and would be willing to ship one for a bit of a discount compared to buying from DirtyPCBs? Thanks for any info!

I just found this on ebay. Looks cheap and I wonder if it will work.

Recently acquired 3 Xboxes that I have tsop flashed with Cerbios. At first I purchased a cheap sata to IDE adapter and quickly found when I connected it I had no access to the DVD rom. I was also using the 40 wire IDE cable at the time so, I purchased an 80 wire IDE cable hoping it would solve the problem but unfortunately still no DVD rom access. I then purchased the startech adapter believing it would indeed fix the issue but alas, still no DVD rom access. With the startech adapter if I enable the option in the cerbios.ini file for DVD & HDD I get error 13 no mater which UDMA bios I flash and can't even boot into safe mode. So, doing this requires me to remove the drive and connect it to my pc to edit the ini file back to HDD & No DVD. Once I do this I can boot with up to UDMA mode 5 enabled. I was using old laptop sata drives until today when I got an SSD with the startech adapter but it still does the same thing. It also doesn't matter which position I move the jumper to on the adapter. Master and Cable select both do the same thing in all 3 Xboxes. Any ideas?

I'm attempting to flash the official wireless D-Link firmware to the adapter. I'll look for the firmware now.

Just to report, I have one of those cheap generic SATA to IDE adapters working with a 500GB SSD running smoothly. It's an XBOX Ver. 1.0 with a TSOP flash. It's running Cerbios 2.3.1 If anyone needs extra pics or info, let me know and I'll post them.

I'm trying to softmod an old OG Xbox by doing a hotswap (since the DVD drive can't read games) on the original 8GB WD harddrive. I'm using "Amazon's Choice" usb adapter for whatever that's worth. Inateck USB 3.0 to IDE/SATA External Hard Drive Reader Applicable to 2.5"/3.5" HDD/SSD, with 12V/2A Power Supply, SA03001 https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-External-Reader-Applicable-SA03001/dp/B08BNPXSJ9 I can't tell if a) this adapter isn't supported or b) I'm not getting lucky (timing wise) with the hotswap keeping the drive unlocked. Any help is appreciated! If I use USB View it shows the device as: Loc[124] DeviceConnected: USB Mass Storage Device Device Descriptor: bcdUSB: 0x0300 bDeviceClass: 0x00 bDeviceSubClass: 0x00 bDeviceProtocol: 0x00 bMaxPacketSize0: 0x09 (9) idVendor: 0x1F75 idProduct: 0x0611 bcdDevice: 0x0006 iManufacturer: 0x04 0x0409: " When I try to see the device in FATXPlorer I get the following log: =====FATXplorer v3.0.0.24789 64-bit (x64) Log File START===== Runtime: .NET 7.0.3 OS Fingerprint: 3047bb3539608b94e41b5d78e5d1bc137edd101800e5ae889a3164cec688de07 [3/11/2023 4:19:13 PM] [Startup] FATXplorer is starting... [3/11/2023 4:19:13 PM] [Startup] MainForm initializing... [3/11/2023 4:19:13 PM] [Driver] Driver v22.0.8464.0 is installed and available. [3/11/2023 4:19:13 PM] [Startup] MainForm initialized. [3/11/2023 4:19:14 PM] [Startup] Startup complete, searching for devices... [3/11/2023 4:19:14 PM] [Device Detection] Search for devices starting [3/11/2023 4:19:14 PM] [Startup] FATXplorer is up to date. [3/11/2023 4:19:19 PM] [Device Detection] Found SCSI device "NVMe KXG70ZNV1T02 NVMe KIOXIA 1024GB" @ "\\.\PHYSICALDRIVE0" [3/11/2023 4:20:27 PM] [Device Detection] -OS disk, skipping [3/11/2023 4:20:27 PM] [Device Detection] Found USB device "WDC WD80 EB-28CGH1 USB Device" @ "\\.\PHYSICALDRIVE1" [3/11/2023 4:21:21 PM] [Device Detection] --Device doesn't support SMART [3/11/2023 4:21:21 PM] [Device Detection] -Checking security status... [3/11/2023 4:21:29 PM] [Device Detection] --Failed to check this device's security status, details: pd1: Unable to read USB device ID [3/11/2023 4:21:29 PM] [Device Detection] -Checking this device for HDD and MU storage... [3/11/2023 4:21:44 PM] [Device Detection] Device detection read failed at position 0x0000000000000000: The request failed due to a fatal device hardware error. : '\\.\PHYSICALDRIVE1' [3/11/2023 4:21:48 PM] [Device Detection] Device detection read failed at position 0x00000000007FF000: The request failed due to a fatal device hardware error. : '\\.\PHYSICALDRIVE1' [3/11/2023 4:21:52 PM] [Device Detection] Device detection read failed at position 0x0000000020E30000: The request failed due to a fatal device hardware error. : '\\.\PHYSICALDRIVE1' [3/11/2023 4:21:56 PM] [Device Detection] Device detection read failed at position 0x0000000130EB0000: The request failed due to a fatal device hardware error. : '\\.\PHYSICALDRIVE1' [3/11/2023 4:22:00 PM] [Device Detection] Device detection read failed at position 0x00000000ABE80000: The request failed due to a fatal device hardware error. : '\\.\PHYSICALDRIVE1' [3/11/2023 4:22:00 PM] [Device Detection] --Sector Format: N/A [3/11/2023 4:22:00 PM] [Device Detection] --Health: Healthy [3/11/2023 4:22:00 PM] [Device Detection] --Couldn't find any HDD or MU storage on this device [3/11/2023 4:22:00 PM] [Device Detection] -Finished checking this device for HDD and MU storage [3/11/2023 4:22:00 PM] [Device Detection] -Checking this device for Xbox 360 USB storage... [3/11/2023 4:22:41 PM] [Device Detection] --This device doesn't have any partitions [3/11/2023 4:22:41 PM] [Device Detection] -Finished checking this device for Xbox 360 USB storage [3/11/2023 4:22:41 PM] [Device Detection] -Finished with this device [3/11/2023 4:22:41 PM] [Device Detection] Search finished in 206.7 seconds

Dear Friends, I try to find a solderless adapter for my 8164B DVD drive to use it in my Xbox, but there is no any chance to get the "Talismoon 8164 Solderless Adapter" anywhere on the internet. (as you see it on the pic). I'd like to ask you, is there anyone, who has a complete schematics/PCB and a BIN file for "Atmel_Tiny12l" microprocessor? I think I try to build one for myself. Thank you for your help! BR: SiD

Finally found the time to test the Adapter PCBs i built to use an ATX Psu to power an Xbox. They are plug and play to easily switch between the original psu and an atx-psu.Might be usable for casemods or laptop builds. The adapter is built around the following basic schematic. It properly convert the Standby voltage from 5v to 3,3v and also shifts the power_ok and power_good signals to the correct levels. Also built a small version that can be used to build an extension cord style adapter to save some more space. Just let me know if you have any questions about them

Hey all, first post as I stumbled across this page while trying to research my halo edition xbox. I pulled it out of storage and wanted to sell it as I havent used it in forever and am fairly out of the video game collecting these days. Memory is pretty fuzzy on this as it's been awhile, but I bought this new when it came out, used it a good amount and then ended up putting the Xenium Ice modchip in with the solderless adapter. It's been in a closet for at least the past 10 years. I believe the hard drive and disc drive are original, almost positive I never replaced those. I hooked it all up and tested it, works great, the only game I had laying in the closet with it was Sneak King, so I tossed that in to confirm the drive still worked, no issues. The case looks great, no cracks. It is missing one of the rubber feet. Controller, power and video cables are the original ones that came with it. I'd like to get $300 + shipping for it, but am open to offers. Pics attached and happy to take others if anyone needs.

Decided to post about my ATX to Xbox adapters as i've been contacted about them a couple times now. I won't build more of them in the future as it's quite a time consuming process but you can order the PCBs and build them yourself. The bill of materials is printed on the bottom layer and assembly is pretty straight forward too. The solder work isn't hard to do so even a beginner is able to get it done! You can order the PCBs here: Rev1.0-Rev1.1 Rev1.2-Rev1.5 The ATX Port and Cables can be reused from a dead (or unused) Xbox PSU and motherboard. The end result might look like this 2 examples here:

Currently it's the cheapest on eBay, for my location (found some Startech ones, which are generally most suggested online, but they cost 50€ wth). Asking this because last time I tried another adapter (this one), Slayer Evox installer didn't recognize it (showed 0 for all partitions on the main screen, then faked to formating and copying files -very quickly).

i bought a cheap adapter on ebay. it doesnt have a master/slave adjustment. is that needed?

Hi, I have a 160GB IDE drive in use but i want to swap it for a bigger 2TB HDD. I bought 2 cheap IDE/SATA converters from Ali (different brands) but both keep failing. Anybody a suggestion for a good one? Thank you!

I have a 1.0 model xbox with a faulty 3rd party PSU installed by a previous owner, I also have a 1.4 with a bad video out port that I use as a parts console. I was wondering if there is anywhere I could buy a 1.4 PSU to 1.0 PSU adapter so I can swap the 1.4 PSU in, or if there is a pinout diagram so I can do the pin swap myself. Thanks

I’m attempting to fix a friends unmodded 1.0 Xbox with a dead HDD (error 7). I’ve successfully extracted the EEPROM using PiPROM and prepared a new IDE HDD with FATXplorer. However I’m having trouble locking the replacement Seagate ST3320620A IDE HDD which according the Xbox Hard Drive Compatibility Chart supports locking. Initially I used an IDE to USB adapter but XboxHDM23USB Beta 3 and 4 complained about an unknown USB chipset. I then tried a StarTech PATA2SATA3 IDE to SATA adapter which progressed a little further but still fails with “ATA SECURITY SETPASS failed: scsi error aborted command”. The output from XboxHDM23USB Beta 4 shows that the HDD is in the frozen state which I believe prevents unlocking/locking. If this is causing the failure, how can I unfreeze the HDD? Can I use some other utility such as hdparm to lock the HDD?

Shoot offers tested and working selling as bundle xenium ice chip along with xenium sp ice solderless adapter.

Hello all DONT BUY CHEAP ADAPTERS i installed a SATA to IDE adapter ages ago and now having problems with ERROR 13 when using the HD swap trick with the OG 8gig the new SATA would work again, but this was a false hope as I have now realised the actual adapter is the fault of error 13 i purchased this adapter https://www.amazon.co.uk/Multibao-Interface-Adapter-Converter-Parallel/dp/B08VR9YQ3C/ref=asc_df_B08VR9YQ3C/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=499393282480&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=13086529900178308512&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9045594&hvtargid=pla-1251257650787&psc=1 and have found there to be acid on the board and the capacitor is loose DON’T BUY THIS ADAPTERS

I purchased a xbox communicator adapter hoping I would be able to use a stereo 2.5 mm plug. I am unable to fit the plug to the adapter b/c of raised edge interference. I rather use what I have if possible. What are my options? Do I disassemble the adapter leaving half intact. Do I file down the raised edges so the jack is flush. Does anyone know where I can get an old mono headset with mic used for cell phones 2.5 mm plug? Does anyone know if there is a 2.5 mm cable extension that would fit or is it all proprietary. I am having difficulty disassembling the communicator adapter, it seems to catch at the top, I don't know why. Has anyone disassembled one before?

Hi all, ive been using the chinese style adapters from ebay but the price has been creeping up on them so thought i would source a bulk from alibaba, they looked the same on the pics so thought i would be good to go, i ordered 10. they work but the console takes ages to go from the xbox splash screen (without the microsoft tag) to the little microsoft tag appearing at the bottom (15 - 20 seconds as opposed to 1 or 2 seconds with the other adapters), once that has appeared they work fine, everything else is the same speedwise. looking at these adapters they actually look better quality, even the master/slave jumper comes in its own little bag, one other thing I've noticed is they work with the standard 40 pin ide cable whereas the other chinese adapters only worked with an 80 pin. anyone had any experience of these?

I want to adapt a PicoPSU to a 1.6 xbox. Just wondering if anyone has done the ATX adapting to a 1.6. If so how did you deal with the 5V always on? I think this may be advantageous since there probably wont be quite the inrush on power on for the 5V rail. I was thinking of either the following: 1.) Using a relay to switch between the 5VSB and the main 5V supply when switched on. 2.) Connecting the 5VSB and main 5V supply from the ATX supply. Anyone have any thoughts?

I don't like that the Startech SATA-IDE adapter doesn't have a case, so I designed one for it, and thought I'd share it. It's printed in two halves and snaps together (if all goes well). sata-adapter-case.stl

I wanted to switch out the stock fan for a Noctua and still retain some of the OG look and feel, this is the result. Maybe it will be of use to someone else as well. The design is up on Thingiverse and PrusaPrinters, whichever you fancy. Print instructions are there as well. Enjoy. PS. I'm also working on a design that's more compact and easier to print (in two or three parts), I'll post it if I ever get around to completing it.

I was given two broken original Xbox consoles to try and fix. After fixing the issues with one of them, I tried to test it. As I didn't have a controller for it I bought an adapter like the one in the picture (Adapter) to try and use either a USB arcade stick or one of my wired controllers for PC, Xbox 360, or Xbox One. I eventually bought a controller for it as I could not get anything to work with this adapter. So I am wondering, does this adapter serve any purpose? Has anybody gotten an arcade stick kit like the one in the second picture to work on the original Xbox?

Results Below! I compare load times while controlling all variables of the startech ide2sat2 adapter vs the cheap adapter that most people recommend. There are significant differences in both price and performance. cheapo ux bootup 2:28 - 3:09 = 41 seconds halo 2 load 4:11 - 4:56 = 45 seconds coinops dd3 5:42 - 6:25 = 43 seconds startech ux bootup 8:00 - 8:20 = 20 seconds halo2 load 10:05 - 10:25 = 20 seconds coinops dd3 10:57 - 10:40 = 43 seconds CoinOps was 43 seconds for both tests. This implies that the wait isn't due to throughput of the storage device but rather the zip extraction of the cpu.