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Showing results for tags '1.4' or ''.
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I've been trying to install an RPP2040 using the MODXO schematic on a 1.4 board for a few days without success. I followed the original connection diagram from Team Resurgent, the instructions on how to program the RP2040 with Cerbios first, but the console simply tries to boot 3 times and nothing happens, just the red and green lights flashing. I changed the RP2040, followed the procedure to use PrometheOS 1.5 and the same thing happens. If I completely remove the RP2040, the console boots normally (the original HD is working perfectly, the drive no longer reads). Where can I find a guide as descriptive as possible specific to this revision of the XBOX 1.4? I have tried several options in the process (changing the rp2040 board, changing the USB cable, changing the PC's USB port used, previous versions of each BIOS, changing the wires used in the installation, etc...) with no practical effect so far. I welcome any advice!
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I have a 1.4 motherboard with bulging green Sanyo caps below the CPU. I ordered board, power supply, and clock cap kits from Console5 to do the repair. I replaced all power supply caps, reinstalled and tested, normal boot. The stock Nichicon clock cap hasn't leaked or damaged the board, but I replaced it due to age and it booted normally. I then replaced the CPU caps with the provided 6.3V 3300uF caps and I get 3 boot frag. I removed the new caps and reinstalled the old and it boots as normal. Thinking the 6.3V caps may be defective, I then tried the supplied 10V 3300uF caps but still 3 boot frag. I again reinstalled the bulging green OEM caps and system boots. I double checked my power supply solder joints and also re-flowed for good measure. I have experience and success with micro soldering and don't believe my soldering is the problem. Especially since I've reinstalled the original bulging capacitors multiple times and the system again boots. Could one of the other board capacitors be causing the issue when new CPU caps are installed?
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Hi all, I have been trying to install a Jafar xblast socket edition in my 1.4 xbox with no luck. The xbox boots fine when d0 is disconnected so fairly sure my issue is localised to the LPC. I have gone over my soldering to confirm continuity and voltages I've noted: -Pin 2 I have 1.6k ohms to test point the in the attached diagram but 0.2 ohms to the screw hole ground point. does anyone know where the pin 2 trace runs on the top of the motherboard? -Pin 12 has 12.5 ohms to the test point. I have also checked voltages on the LPC all my pins read correctly except pin 5 reading 3.3v on its first boot then 2.2v and finally 0.15v. Any advice on where to look next would be greatly appreciated.
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Hi everyone, I have a 1.4 board that I bought loose. I bought a lot with several xboxes and they all have FRAG. Now I just want to try to fix this 1.4 so I bought a power supply that I received yesterday, the console turns on but has FRAG. I have a reader and a hard drive from another xbox that I can use to test. I have 2 aladdin chips but I don't know if they work. The power supply is tested and works. I have many rp2040 and I tried to program one but it doesn't work or I don't know how to make it work. The 1.4 board doesn't have bad tracks or swollen capacitors. I'm quite lost, I've never had an xbox with FRAG (50% green 50% red) without video and I don't know where to start. In the same lot there was a 1.1 xbox with the same symptoms, but in the end I sold it very cheap.
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On to my next project. This is the 1.4 board that came from the 1.6 Halo console. It's why I transplanted. This is the shell that the 1.6 was in. I can not get it to boot with video. It'll even flash green and orange without the AV cable plugged in, but when it's plugged in? Nothing. One time. I got video output ONE TIME for no apparent reason. Got the green blubber and everything. Couldn't believe it. Next boot, nothing. Just a green light. I found a lot of bugs in this case for some reason and they may have caused a short... I'm hoping it was just in storage... And that I didn't fry it when I tested it the first time... I didn't know there were like, 147 bugs inside, man... Any idea where to start? Or should I just give up now? I did verify that it's not a corroded AV port. @SS_Dave @KaosEngineer
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Original Xbox 1.1 are 1.4 all have 128 mb of ram the Clock Cap has been removed I have 6 black and 1 cristal £80 posed £90 for the cristal plus any fees console only it will have a mod chip installed and the 8 gig hdd Some of the dvd drives have week laser possibly
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There's a few games not working on faster cpu. Does anyone know how to get Return to Castle Wolfenstein (NTSC) to run with a faster cpu ? (1 ghz, 1.4 ghz) ? On startup it dIsplays the first copyright screen and then it freezes just before loading the ESRB notice. HDD spins down to low activity. Same result happens if I use xbepatcher on the default.xbe. On my stock xbox this game runs just fine.
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Hi everyone. As i mentioned on my introductory post, I have an 1.4 OG Xbox that isn't quite right. I bought it knowing it didn't work, the seller told me a friend of his had replaced the caps and it worked for a while, but that now it's back to not working (when i bought it). After buying it and testing it, it did the classic fragging (reboot 3 times and then "Christmas lights"). When i opened the case, i found the that friend of his did replace some caps, the CPU/GPU ones, but left one without replacing that is arguably way more urgent to replace... the clock cap. Yes, it had already leak all over the place. I cleaned all the acid, removed the cap. Installed a ModXO... and the console boots up!.... but it does by itself, when plugging it to AC... that's not good. Also, pressing the eject button powered off the console. I latter discovered that this is a very known symptom of trace rot. A very good video about it is in the Retro Renegade Repairs channel, he explains in detail how to fix it. It is a matter of bridging the broken traces. If the damage is minimal, you can just bridge tiny gaps, but as i had the trace broken a few times along its length, i opted for just bridging the starting point and ending point of each broken trace with a very thin wire (i used an old IDE cable). This fixed the self powering issue and the eject button works! well, the button does, the tray doesn't open, but that was because the elastic band inside the tray was very old and loose. After cleaning and greasing the tray mechanism, i discovered that the DVD seems to be dead already. It is a Thomson, from what i read over the internet, those drives are the worst ones. So it appears as the previous owner had attempted a softmod, as the HDD already had games and a custom Dashboard. I cloned the Drive with CHIMP, and used XBTable Partitioner to make the clone a new drive, after configuring everything to my liking, i discovered a weird thing. When powering the console, there was no boot animation. Cerbios has a custom one, where is the same as the OG but with custom colors. The screen is just blank, nothing. If i power the console with the Eject button, the console boots in safe mode, skipping the boot animation and goes straight into XBM4G. Then i noticed something i didn't already, there was no sound at all. XBMC4G makes sounds when you move the cursor, but this was completely silent. When launching games, some would load, but then get stuck, and some would just reboot the console. This is where i realized something is still wrong with the console, but i don't really know what. I replaced EVERY capacitor on the board, to no avail. One thing that may have caused this, but i am not really sure, is that when i tried to put an 80 wire IDE cable, the console rebooted itself. The thing is, i don't really remember if the console did or didn't have audio before that. And if this has damaged any crucial part of the motherboard, like the MCPX. I don't think the issue is the RAM, as i read on-line that if it were the case, the console wouldn't even boot. Any ideas? thank you all
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Hi, have a Xbox Classic 1.4 chip FOCUS fitted with Aladdin XT Plus2 Cerbios 2.4.2 FRAG when power on Falshing Green Orange NO video output on screen. I replaced 3 capacitors of 3300uF 6.3v the ones near the power connector were swollen, and put new thermal paste, and washing mainboard. How to fix? -
Hey all, tl;dr Started to recap my 1.4, testing as I went. Board eventually started to 3 boot frag, cannot get it to recover. Did I break it beyond repair? So, I replaced the power supply that I accidentally blew up and all was good. Since I noticed that the caps by the CPU were bulging, I figured I might as well replace them before going any further so I ordered a full board cap kit from Console5. I've recapped other devices before, but I guess I must have been lucky because this gave me problems immediately. The multi-layer board and large ground planes made it extremely difficult to get caps out and clear the vias of left over solder. I don't have a hot air station or board pre-heater or anything like that which I'm sure would have made things much easier (one bedroom apartment with two people and a cat, space is at a premium). Since I was afraid I was doing damage to pads/internal board layers getting caps and solder out, I made sure to test the system after replacing every few caps. I decided not to do the whole board since I was having difficulty, and would stop after these last few. Well, after replacing those last few the system no longer boots. Here's what I'm getting: The first few times I tried booting, I got the 3 boots and FRAG. I reflowed some solder on questionable joints and got a solid green light, but no AV (seems to indicate inability to load a BIOS). Unplugged my modchip, but same issue. While not impossible, it seemed unlikely that both the onboard BIOS (this board was previously TSOPed) and the modchip BIOS would be corrupted so I felt I must have done too much board damage somewhere and maybe destroyed an internal trace or something. After going back and forth checking all the caps I replaced and even trying to solder from the top side to ensure a through-and-through connection (please, forgive me), I wound up at: 3 boot FRAG when modchip installed, but solid green no AV with modchip uninstalled. This led me to think that maybe there was an issue with the LPC though I hadn't touched that area since I originally installed the pin header 4 years ago. I reflowed those joints and moved the D0 wire from the Aladdin chip to a ground/screw hole on the board. Continuity between LPC pins and their respective traces check out fine on my multi meter. Now I get 3 boot frag with or without the modchip plugged in. Anyone have any advice or see anything in the pictures that I don't? Any help is appreciated. Pictures: https://imgur.com/a/WEKo0vb The caps circled in blue at the ones I replaced and was able to still boot after. The ones in red are the last ones I replaced, no booting since replacing them. All other caps are original.
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Hi - having gotten the xbox original bug recently I have acquired a few original xbox consoles from friends and colleagues. I have a 1.0 that has a fan on the GPU so it's pretty noisey. I have a 1.6 and that can't be Tspoped and I don't have the skills required to add a chip. Today, a colleague gave me an xbox 1.1 - I opened it and checked to see if there was a fan on the GPU and there isn't - which is good in terms of noise. This also means that I can TSOP the 1.1. I have 3 or 4 more lying around in my attic that I collected over the years at car boot sales (mainly to get the games that came with them in bundle packs) - is there a particular model that I should look out for like the 1.1 seems to have the best of everything for me right now or am I wrong? Which version do you think is the best and why? Thanks in advance. -
My next mission is to TSOP flash a 1.4 Xbox that has an Alladin mod chip, from memory with the mod chip disabled the Xbox just frags so I wired it with the mod always on. I'm guessing at some point a TSOP flash was attempted on it and failed or something went wrong with the original bios. Is it going to be possible to recover the TSOP on this one, can I flash with the mod chip installed somehow? Thanks for any advice. -
I'm so proud so far I'm a totall newbie to soldering but i just did my first succesfull total refurb of a transluent 1.4 box (full recap mobo, powersupply and DVD player, new cooler paste & pin header mod chip install) and it still works hahaha but i'm unable to find the location where the D0 cable needs to be soldered to the 1.4 mobo (i believe its called the Xbox motherboard D0 point) to let the Openxenium chip to work fully. I know i'm probly overseeing this but is there a picture where i should solder this to the the mobo? i see a lot of 1.0 and 1.6 YT clips but none for the 1.4 Thanks !!!
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Hi, I have a 1.4 Xbox here which is doing something interesting. When you turn it on, it shows a green light for a short time, then reboots, and then it reboots 2x and FRAGs. It spins up the hard drive when first turning on but after reboot it doesn't spin it up anymore. This started happening after I tried to upgrade the RAM and put one chip in (in hindsight the chip was probably faulty). After it not booting I removed the chip I installed, and now it does this. And yes, i checked for bridged pass like a 1000 times. This is happening with an Xblast flashed Aladdin modchip. Other modchips go straight to FRAG. Has anyone seen this? Attached is a video of this behaviour (green and orange flashing is fine, I have no video cable plugged in. With it plugged in, the light is solid green.) 1241546483_VID_20240701_153110(1).mp4
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HI I got a xbox 1.4 to play around seller said red light on the front when I got it it was frag. I opened it up and removed the clockcap and cleaned the corosion sadly than still frag. I than installed a modchip with header and nbot when I press the power button it turns on and instandly off. I tested known good psu and ther chip is my xblast chip for testing so also known good. Gruß
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I acquired a 1.4 that had been TSOP'd at some point with a 120gb HDD. Something is buggy with the TSOP that I can't update or change the BIOS so I put it a Open Xenium that I had here. It powers on as it should and works normally except when I try to reboot it. It'll power up green at first and then start flashing red with no video. I'm assuming it's needing the caps replaced, although the 3 in front of the CPU & GPU seemed to have been replaced already as they are different than the rest (blue with gold stripe & writing). Any other suggestions before I start replacing all the caps?
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Or maybe i locked it in my inexperienced days? Anywhoo im curious as to if there is a way to unlock said drive without the eeprom..i still have the board but no power supply for it as i abandoned it and went to work on my 1.6 but i do still have the mobo and associated sister boards. Is my only hope resurrecting the 1.4 board or can i pull the eeprom without power to it? I have an Aladdin chip if i need to go that route...any help would be appreciated. -
I think I got lucky. I was looking for an Xbox below 1.6 to do a RAM upgrade on. I found one with the X3 front switch panel for the same price as any old Xbox without it. Just got it and it turns on. The chip turned out to be the newer CE version. But it's installed with the Xapt3r adapter. In https://command-tab.com/static/x3_ce_v10_v16.pdf there is an image of the standard kit: The parts that came with this Xbox are 1, 2, 3, 4 and 7. If I want to solder it I will need 9 also. That I can make myself from one of the scrap headers I have. But what is 8 and 10? My guess is that 10 is irrelevant. Is 8 for some drive activity led flashing? Is it available to buy somewhere? -
I have a 1.4 with a flashed TSOP on Cerbios running XBMC4Gamers. First symptom I noticed was a half-second complete video and sound blackout every so often which wasn't too intrusive, but I had other boxes to play on, so never thought too much about it until now when I've started using this box again. I'm not getting the half-second drop-outs like before but what I am getting is really stuttery FMV playback. It's a bit weird in that it plays game preview videos OK, but once I start a game, any video sequence playback is all stuttery - like a record skipping every second or two. The gameplay itself is flawless. I swapped the HDD into another system and it played fine while the other system HDD had the same issue in the problem box. When I got this particular system it looked almost like brand new - and still does, and looking at all the caps, they look in pristine condition. Does choppy video playback point to anything in particular to anyone?
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I haven’t worked on this one in a week or so but I pulled it out last night to see what was up. Here’s what it does: It will boot fine and run for hours with no issue. If you reboot or turn it off after a certain point you’ll get a solid green light but no video. It will recognize if you’ve pulled the av cable out but when you plug it back in there’s still no video. Once you get to the no video stage you can’t even make it frag. I pulled the dvd and hdd out both separately and together but nothing changed. It will boot to a game during this time though. The odd part is if I unplug it and let it sit for ten mins I’ll have video again until a reboot or shutdown. If I let it sit overnight it’ll work and you can even reboot or turn it off and on successfully for a bit. While it was working today I decided to do rocky5’s softmod. That worked fine as usual. I bring this up to note this. When it goes to the no video stage it won’t even boot far enough to the led to orange like rocky5’s softmod does. When it has video it does this fine. I’ve tested voltages, replaced cables, caps, etc. The problem still persists but I at least know more about it and can recreate the issue. Any thoughts? I’m leaning towards failing/bad bios. I’m curious if throwing a hard mod on it would remedy the issue. @Bowlsnapper this is that weird one you and I talked about briefly a couple of weeks ago.
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Hi guys, first time posting here. So, I live in Brazil and the OG Xbox never got sold here. Recently bought one with a defective 110V PSU to attempt to repair and have currently reached a dead end trying to solve it. What I currently have is the following: ===PSU's PRIMARY SIDE=== - First filter cap (the really big one near) has a reading of approx. 170V. - When powering off, the voltage drains off filter cap normally. ===SECONDARY SIDE=== - No bulging caps, haven't recapped. Shorted VSTB to POW-ON to test and got the following: - 3.27V on VSTB to POW-ON, which I understand is what is needed. - 3.16V on VSTB to VS, which I think is low. - 5.3 on DNA1002D's pin 1, which I'm not sure is supposed to be that high. - 13.5V on the HV end of the optocouplers and little to nothing on the other end, which I think is wrong. - nothing on the pins for 5V nor 12V when shorting VSTB to POW-ON My best bet is the voltage is off on the secondary part of the PSU, maybe because of a faulty transistor or resistor (haven't found the fault) and POW-OK isn't triggering the feedback circuit, but I'm not entirely sure. I'm an amateur at best and know I shouldn't be attempting to repair a PSU with little knowledge, but am taking every precaution possible. Any help is much appreciated. Thanks!
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I'm bringing up my console collection to the modern ages... Or at least trying to keep them from wasting away in a pile of leaky capacitor fluid. I have a 1.4 OG that was modded with a Xenium Blue chip. Original HD, DVD, etc. Just modded to turn it into a media box back in the day. Prior to the restoration, I would get an initial green light, then flashing red light constantly. I've recapped the entire system, reflowed the LPC to the Xenium, and verified continuity. There was slight corrosion under the clock cap and a few of the CPU caps had bulged. Post-rehab, I can boot initially to the XeniumOS 1.0 menu. I have two old BIOS images available along with "Original BIOS", however when any of the options are selected the eject button LED goes from solid green immediately to a flashing red light. Two spin-ups of what I believe is the DVD drive, no video, no audio. Flashing red continues until a single press of the power button shuts down the system. Eject button works during this time. Component A/V cables will not work display the XeniumOS menu, but RCA cables will. I've seen another post on reddit discuss an EEPROM failure as the potential cause, and I'm starting to think that's most likely it. In the EEPROM tools section, the Game Region is "INVALID!" and cannot be flashed to another region. Before I go down the rabbit hole of procuring another EEROM, flashing, and reinstallation I wanted to see if anyone here had any other thoughts on the issue. I appreciate any insight you folks may have. Thanks!
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Hi guys, i have an openxenium with latest OS and cerbios 2.3.0 mounted on a 1.6 xbox and it works fine. When i place the modchip into my 1.4 xbox it won't boot (it frags). D0 is connected to the correct point on the motherboard. I believe cerbios 2.3.0 is an all xbox version ?. Should i flash a 1.4 bios into it with the launch menu ?. I also have a duo x modchip and That one boots fine.(on the 1.4 board) I am puzzled ,can it be a poor connection on one off the lpc header pins ? Somebody can give me advice ? Thanks.
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Sorry, but I have to annoy you again... I once again bought a cheap ogxbox at a flea market. So far so good. Unfortunately, the box now has an error that I've never had before... and I don't know how to fix it either... When I turn on the box, the box starts to "pump". The LEDs flash alternately. go off and then on again. Fan stops and starts again, screen is black, hard drive is clicking and turning. After 5 - 10 seconds, the box is stable, the fan is running, but the LEDs continue to flash in all colors. Despite this, no error code is displayed even after a long period of time. When I press the eject button now, the DVD doesn't respond at all. If I then start the box via the eject button, the error pattern is the same at the beginning, but then the DVD is opened and the box then boots normally. Then I can even turn off the box completely and turn it on normally. Everything works as it should. If the box was switched off again for some time, the problem starts all over again. The box is a version 1.4 with TSOP patch, but the box also has the same quirks with modchip and original MS BIOS. I've changed pretty much everything that can be changed. IDE cable, yellow DVD cable, DVD ROM, hard disk, power supply unit ... the CPU/GPU cooling paste has also been renewed and the clock capacitor has been removed ... I don't see any signs of wear on the board, and the capacitors still look good... As always, any help or hint is appreciated... Cheers and Thanks
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Hello people. managed to pick up a very very cheap xbox. only paid a 10 quid for it but its mint. only thing it switches on automatically when its plugged in. i did check for traces and 1 is gone but i will jump these when my wires come. clock cap his been desoldered but 3 power caps are gone which ive ordered and will change was going through some old stuff and managed to find my xecuter v26 CE. i had this for years and luckly i still kept it. replaced this with X3 so i kept the old 1 now my questions. will this work on my 1.4 will it need reflashing as i cant even remember what bios was on it (been so many years) i have all the wiring, fresh as in never been installed. does any 1 have a guide on how to install. i think 3 wires just need soldering. as my X3 was a solderless install and of course if i do need a reflash, can any 1 suggest a good bios CHEERS GUYS. MUCH APPRCIATED
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Board Life Status
Board startup date: April 23, 2017 12:45:48