HDShadow
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Everything posted by HDShadow
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I have plenty of Xboxes with 3.5" IDE or SATA HDDs and I have no other sensible use for a pretty much virgin 80GB IDE 2.5" so what's the problem? It'll generate less heat and should work just as well as a 3.5" and I'll bet will boot faster than any SATA HDD. Its a bit small but for the purpose intended, my CD music collection and a handfull of my go to Xbox games, like Timesplitters FP, it'll be fine.
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Auto Installer Installer v4.53 | Full & Lite
HDShadow replied to dispunko's topic in Installation Disks
Those two links you posted are to "theisozone.com". The ones KaosEngineer posted earlier still seem to work OK - I'm test downloading a backup copy just to check. That much missed isozone (TiZ) forum/web site was closed down almost two years ago now so links to any of its downloads are not going to work. A number of people at OGXbox, including at least one of the moderators, were theisozone forum regulars and contributed a great deal of very useful Xbox related expertise to that site and are doing the same here. -
The ones I've found are slightly less ugly than that but if you say it works with just the 5v connection that's what I wanted to know.
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I have an unused 80GB 2.5" IDE HDD bought for an old laptop which died before I got around to fitting it. The problem or maybe not a problem is the 2.5" IDE to 3.5" IDE adapter. I've found what I think are suitable ones on Ebay/Amazon (F 2.5" with M 3.5" to connect to the IDE cable). But the thing I'm not sure about is the power supply. The ones I've found have a (F) Molex connector + cable but only wired with red and black cables. This I assume is 5v and ground ie. normal Molex power connections. Is this enough to power the 2.5" HDD? It should be but it got me thinking about why the Xbox HDD power supply has both 5v and 12v connections (red + ground and yellow + ground) if they're not both needed. If a standard 3.5" HDD in the Xbox needs more than 12v available perhaps a 2.5" HDD needs more than 5v too. Knowledgeable advice appreciated.
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UnleashX Returnes To Dash When Starting App/Game
HDShadow replied to springskinka's topic in UnleashX
Not knowing what a chipped HeXEn install looks like but having experienced what it does post-TSOP if you let it "clean up" afterwards - I'm going by that. It seemed to install everything everywhere whether you were using it or not. There is purpose in that but hell's teeth it is a messy way of doing things. Your C:\drive looks pretty normal to me for a chipped Xbox. The evoxdash.xbe there is probably your main dash. You can and should check that in UnleashX main menu > System > Settings > System > Dash Version (More Information) > UnleashX. It should show something like:- Path C:\ Phy. Location \Device\Harddisk0\Partition2\evoxdash.xbe If it shows something else - what? The C:\xboxdash.xbe should be your working MS dash unless HeXEn has re-used the name for doing something else but there is no other XBE on C:\ so it is a good bet that is what it is. The E:drive is where it starts to get odd (or maybe not for HeXEn). All fairly normal even the EEPROM backup being there if you used or HeXEn used ConfigMagic as "e" ie. the root of the E:\ drive is the default save location. But what that E:\Dash folder is doing there ..............I can only assume it is part of HeXEn's install everything policy and the contents of that would only be used if it was a softmod. The F:\drive .........................I've seen nothing like that; a weird mix of EvoX, UnleashX and XBMC dashboards, even Avalaunch gets a look in. A loose "Skin" folder for XBMC and a second Skins folder for UnleashX and most peculiarly a second Item.xml and Config.xml. I know why they're there: because if that F:\evoxdash.xbe is used and it is an UnleashX dash they'd be automatically created. Similar the evox.ini if it were a Evox dashboard XBE. But why that XBE is there. loose I can again, only assume it is HeXEn's install all policy ie. putting a backup main dash on F:\. TBH rather than trying to sort out what is causing the problem what I would do is get another virgin HDD and use AID v4.53 (Lite or Full) instead to set that up with a far cleaner dash install. It'll walk you through the initial formatting and then you can use its One-Click chipped/TSOP dash install option in the main menu. You cannot really go wrong with that. The only downer is that most of the Apps it includes are not the most recent so you'll have to install them yourself from disc or by FTP. XBMC likewise: final version is v3.5.3. Burn AID v4.53 on DVD-R with ImgBurn and be prepared for as long as 45 second delay when booting the disc. Any idea what your chip BIOS is? You could try installing BIOSChecker and see if it recognises it. -
XpertXP is talking about a v1.0/v1.1 and I assume too, after reading the PDF manual , that the wired solution is similar to what you've described but maybe just wiring the appropriate d0 pogo pin to the contact point on the MB. I do not really see the point of wiring the LPC pogos instead unless there is some other mounting position/solution being proposed. Using a pointy d0 pogo pin to line up with the small contact point underneath the chip rather than solder it in is a rather odd way of doing things. The PDF manual even warns installers that poor alignment could damage the MB, that the chip might not work if the one retaining screw is not tightened up just the right amount and that screw must be used with a spacing washer to keep the chip from fouling the MB, at the right level for the d0 pogo and ground it too. The later Xecuter chips were mounted differently for good reason.
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That's for the Xecuter 2.6 the OP here asked about. XpertXP should have made it clear he's asking about the Xecuter 2.3B Lite and specifically a wired install rather than pogo pin or a v1.0/v1.1 MB. I assume the wired install is for the d0 connection which, from the PDF, sounds like a very odd way of doing things. These screenshots are direct from the PDF and might help:-
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UnleashX Returnes To Dash When Starting App/Game
HDShadow replied to springskinka's topic in UnleashX
Error 05? That just indicates the HDD is unlocked which is what you expect with a chipped machine. So when you start with the chip off that is what you get. What dash did you install from the HeXEn2018 disc (UnleaskX, XBMC?)? Did you install the new dash correctly for a chipped Xbox? Can you post some screenshots from your file manager of the C:\drive and E:\drive contents and wherever your games are installed? No point in trying to guess what is wrong until there is more information. With a chipped machine you of course have the option to install any new HDD or blitz the existing one completely and restart from scratch. Copy (FTP) any stuff you want to preserve to a PC and make sure that includes the eeprom. I'm not suggesting you do that but it is an option if there's no simple fix for whatever the problem is. -
In the case of PAL games it is not just some which support NTSC it is the majority. There are less NTSC version games that support PAL but still plenty that do. For instance Myst 4: Revelation is nominally a NTSC only game but it is in fact region free and will play without issue on either a PAL or NTSC retail state Xbox. Incidentally that particular game is the only Xbox game I know that has a problem with a particular disc drive - the Hitachi. I do not mean it won't read it but it just plays the game with a persistent sound glitch. No other games have any problem with the same Hitachi disc drive. Put the same original retail disc in a Xbox with any other disc drive and it plays perfectly. For years I though it was a either a v1.6 or BIOS issue (Xecuter 2.6CE chipped Xbox) until I installed on the same Xbox's HDD and it played perfectly too.
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Xbox UnleashX skins I'm warming too much more than I have in the past are the XBMC Project Mayhem/PM3 skin lookie-likies. The best of those you might think you're using a XBMC dashboard of some sort at least on the 'home' screen. For more Xbox UnleashX skins Google "UnleashX 69 skins pack" plenty of links but unfortunately the Google Drive archive which had 625 UnleashX skins has disappeared completely. There is however a Google Drive archive of EvoX skins still available. Rocky5 created a simple conversion tool to convert EvoX skins to UnleashX. If you can find that it does a pretty good job although some positional tweaking of specific Sources text may be required for a polished look.
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I think the following is right but I'm not any sort of BIOS expert so I'll be happy to be corrected:- If you don't region switch the console from PAL to NTSC the ED/HD display options won't be available whatever dashboard you're using. In PAL you have PAL50 (576i/50Hz) or PAL60 (480i/60Hz). The latter is practically the same as NTSC (480i/60Hz) just with a slightly different colour sub-carrier. The only other Video display options are Normal (4:3), WS (16:9) and Letterbox (14:9?). Again practically the same as the NTSC dash when used with a SD type cable. But with the Xbox region changed to NTSC you are also able to select ED/HD ie. 480p, 720p or 1080i when using Component cables. If you have a PAL Xbox swap to NTSC and forget about such matters. Only problem you can have is that a few dozen specific PAL version Xbox games were released region locked so can only be played on a PAL region/region swapped console (Timesplitters 2 is a well know example). Most PAL and many NTSC version Xbox games are not region locked and even with retail BIOS support both PAL and NTSC display modes. The Xbox itself is not region locked just hobbled in PAL mode by a MS dash GUI that doesn't support ED/HD.
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So there is not likely to be any off the shelf replacements available? That's disappointing as the main reason I asked is that somebody else on another forum is apparently using their Xbox with no screws to the PB and only three on the MB. Obviously I suggested this was not a good idea, particularly the PB being completely unsecured. But when I looked into the screw type required I realised they were not any common type. The Torx10 heads are practically irrelevant, a Philips cross head or posidrive would be just as good and as long as the head has a flat underside wide enough to contact the grounding ring around each screw hole that is all that matters. But the screw pitch, type and diameter are important and that's where the identification problem arises. I'm going to ask on some other Xbox forums about this. Someone might know more or at least recognise the thread.
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What HDD - IDE or SATA? If SATA are you using an 80 wire IDE cable? SATA adapter?
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Does anyone here know exactly what the screw size/type are used for the 13 screws which secure the Xbox MB (motherboard) and PB (power-board)? Obviously they're Torx10 with what are called, depending on preference: domed, button or pan heads. However I've had a great difficulty actually identifying the screw length, diameter and, most importantly, the thread type/pitch. Some sources say they're M3 (metric 3mm) but I'm pretty sure they're not; the thread is not the same as any other confirmed M3 PC screw types I have. The thread is more like a UNC type than metric. The screw length is also open to question: using a steel rule it is difficult to tell if it is 8mm, 3/10", 7/24". Neither of the latter make any sense as they're not recognised Imperial/US screw lengths. I'm not even sure 8mm is an accurate enough measurement to the degree required for precise identification. Appreciate any knowledgeable help on this.
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I had problems just bridging the two sets of connections needed for the first TSOP I did a few weeks ago. Really messy; the chances of me stuffing up a RAM upgrade are high and I'd guess the same applies to many others whose soldering skills are basic. Ergo for, most people, it not only does not look it easy it is almost guaranteed not going to easy.
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Does it really look that easy?
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Never come across that problem but that maybe because I often abbreviate even installed game XBEs names so they display fully in UnleashX menus. There are some stupidly long games' titles that is very true eg. Chronicles Of Riddick: Escape From Butcher Bay but as they were not intended for HDD install I suppose that is mitigation.
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I've come across a similar problem on another forum just now and found this thread very interesting and potentially helpful but why has nobody mentioned using an eeprom reader? This was the normal recommendation for cases like this in the past. With the eeprom you can then unlock the HDD using Chimp 261812 or XBHDM USB. My feeling about that last post info here is that once confirmed unlocked C64MidRezzie should have re-locked it to the working Xbox's MB. That would mean when used as the Master HDD on the same Xbox it should boot.
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Certainly it will depend on the typical operating temperatures and, I believe although cannot prove it, whether the Xbox was left attached to a power supply 24/7. I think keeping the cap charged up even at the lower temperatures with Xbox off might have a significant effect on their working life. It would explain why some people have suffered early clock cap leakage and others have not had any problems........................yet.
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Have to try that with some XISOs. Don't really have any problem with space as I just delete existing games but keep the saves when I want to install a new one. As 95% of the games I have are installed from original disc, FTPing to and from a PC after converting them to XISOs just to save some space seems like quite a lot of unnecessary extra work.
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The Nichicon 'gold' clock caps are said to have greater longevity but whether they do is not certain. It could be the only reason they're not failing in the same way, yet, is that they were fitted to late model v1.4MB onward. So they're all the youngest caps and the older PowerStor ones which are failing after <15 years use have actually exceeded their life expectancy. All my v1.6 MB Xboxes have Nichicon ones and they're all working, if with reduced charge hold time, and showing no signs of leaking, bulging or other indications of cap failure. I actually replaced a PowerStor one on a v1.4 MB with a Nichicon one from a spare parts v1.6 MB recently. Looking at the removed one it looked in very good shape and I'm wondering if I jumped the gun and removed a still perfectly good cap. But the fact is the life expectancy spec for the caps of that type whoever manufacturers them are not significantly different: typically 1000hrs at 70C -75C.
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Seems like an unnecessarily complicated way of getting games to work on a Xbox. Rather than messing around with FTPing ISOs direct to the console why not extract them on PC using Qwix or C-Xbox Tool and then FTP them? The extraction usually takes very little time and with the actual files now available you can edit out the dashupdater and any other unwanted stuff too which should reduce the FTP time.
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But is that any possible help here when deadhamster35 can not install any game saves to the HDD? Do they work from a memory card or flash drive? If it is possible and he can launch an installer dash how would he fix this particular set of problems? Lets say he is using Rocky5's XBSMT again, which installer options does he use to fix messed up partitions and broken MS dash?
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I've just read your post on the other forum with the suggestion to hotswap to XBHDM and if Rocky5's backdoor didn't work (pity) then it is probably going to be your best bet. There is indeed a XBHDM USB but how you fix this exactly I'm not the one to advise - never used it so you need advice from somebody else about that. From the sound of it you've busted the MS dashboard so it doesn't display but whether just replacing the files with stock ones would work I'm not sure. It depends so much on what you did with the partitioning. If that is messed up you will have to use XBHDM to rebuild the HDD from scratch but please wait until you get a reply and advice from somebody who knows how to use XBHDM USB before doing anything.
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This is what comes of mucking around with a softmod when you do not know what you're doing. Instead of asking here first when you had FTP problems you continued and messed up a perfectly good softmod. Then you continued messing around erasing or reformatting the E:\drive by the sound of it and doing who knows what else until it broke. On top of this you didn't do the one thing you should do first once softmodded and that is to backup the eeprom to your PC. You've been a very naughty boy. Whatever you did XBPartitioner v1.3 did not install an UnleashX dashboard. Unless you tried to re-partition C:\, and the real C:\ at that, not the Shadow C that should have protected Rocky5's softmods from accidents and mistakes I can not begin to guess the route taken to end up with an error 13. That's a dashboard compatibility error but can be triggered my almost anything that prevents the dashboard from launching. The one rule is with error 13 and 14 is to keep the Xbox plugged into the mains, not powered on, just connected to the mains supply or it could easily go to error 16 which is much more difficult to sort out. The Xbox is not bricked if it boots retail games still but if it won't boot burned discs then the softmod is gone and unless Rocky5 XBSMT left in some backdoor to get to a recovery dash that limits your possibilities*. The HDD is, as it should be, still locked and that adds to the problems. What dashboard do you have if any? The MS retail one? You say the exploit/installer game saves are no longer there - how do you know that if you do not have a dashboard? Have you tried booting the exploitable game disc again? * from Rocky5's GitHub XBSMT ReadMe: Built in back door if you break your dashboard. ( Hold Start+Y on startup ). Cross your fingers and hope whatever you've done it hasn't stuffed this up as well.
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Board startup date: April 23, 2017 12:45:48