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About CorpusDeal

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  1. Aside from what was already suggested, you could try lubing it up with some lithium grease. Might help a bit.
  2. This happened to me too. I believe it happened because I updated the URL Downloader while running an older beta, something like 1.3.11? I always do it in this order, URL Downloader, then new beta. But perhaps I should do it the other way around. It was definitely the system/scripts/autoexec.py script that locked the system up (no IGR, no FTP, etc). Deleting it prevented further lock-ups (but I had permanently broken URL Downloader). After a clean install of latest stable, I downloaded the latest beta and updating the URL downloader worked fine. It was completely redesigned though (very nice!). I'll try later if I can reproduce the issue with my broken copy of XBMC4Gamers, I have a backup of autoexec.py so if I didn't mess around too much, maybe.
  3. Xbox One wired controllers are already supported. And if I'm not mistaken, the Bluetooth enabled Xbox One controllers can also be used via an 8bitdo adapter. I'm sure Bluetooth could be supported some other way as well, if someone has the motivation and time to add support for it. I don't think we'll see similar support as we do for Xbox 360 because there are no open source drivers for the Xbox One wireless dongle. It would be nice to see a single dongle that can handle Bluetooth from multiple Xbox One controllers though.
  4. Just a hot tip; if you can recover your original HDD key and lock the new drive with your original key, do it. People are working on re-implementing Xbox Live and if you want to partake, you'll need to have your original Xbox HDD key, nulled keys won't work. No guarantee that we'll ever see Live re-implemented though, but AFAIK, they're pretty close (at least two different teams are working on independent implementations).
  5. Glad I could help. Regarding the newspaper I'd avoid it and try to look for some less-flammable material. I don't think there's a high risk of the newspaper catching fire, but the soldering iron is going to be very hot. It's also quite common that tiny balls of solder jump out when soldering. So if you don't use any protection for the table, keep that in mind when wiping it down (you'll need to use isopropyl alcohol to make sure you get any flux of the table as well).
  6. Soldering is a fun hobby and staying safe is important. I don't want to scare you in any way, but simply provide some tips on how to minimize health risks, kind of like a list of things I wish someone had told me when I was getting started. Like SS_Dave said, leaded solder is the best (lower temp, better joints), but since it contains lead it can be hazardous to your health. Lead is a heavy metal that accumulates in the body (and can lead to lead poisoning). And it's not just the lead that can be hazardous, but also the flux / rosin found in solder paste and inside the solder itself too. This is essentially what the fumes from soldering is composed of. But you don't need to worry about breathing in lead as it won't vaporize at regular soldering temperatures (at least not in significant proportions). Also keep in mind, lead-free solder is not really safer, it has worse chemicals that are vaporized when soldering. To combat lead accumulation in your body it's important to at minimum wash hands thoroughly after handling leaded solder. It's also good to be mindful on what surfaces you're using it. A good way to protect your surfaces is a soldering mat, they are heat resistant and will protect both your components and your table or what not. One option could also be to use disposable gloves while soldering (although I haven't tried this myself). One reason I recommend gloves is that it's found that at least organic lead can be absorbed through the skin, however, I'm not sure wether or not this applies to lead found in solder (better safe than sorry, no?). To combat fumes, at minimum make sure you are in a well ventilated area (crack a window open). You can also practice blowing fumes away with your mouth if you need to get close (magnifying glass helps here). Better if you're using a fan to blow fumes away. And the best option would be to use a mask (only protects you) or get a solder fume extractor. Extractors can be bought for ~$20 and they use an activated carbon filter to trap the harmful fumes from soldering. These can be DIY'ed quite easily as well, I'm currently building my own extractor with a 140mm Noctua industrial fan and filters from AliExpress. Things to look out for which indicate you might need to stop for the day or need better protection: Metallic taste in mouth, nausea, pain in stomach (probably more). Here's my TL;DR list of safety items: Solder fume extractor (or mask) ~$20 Soldering mat ~$15 Disposable gloves (cheap) May be overkill for one-off soldering jobs, but for a hobbyist, very good.
  7. CorpusDeal

    XBox Clean Up

    Not the reason I was expecting . Sounds like it would look really cool as black tho.
  8. I ran into an issue viewing the preview video when I enabled 1080i resolution. Maybe you're using 1080i too? My guess is there was just not enough ram on my 64M Xbox. I doubt it's related to the rest of your synopsis issue, but maybe there's a non-zero chance it could help you.
  9. CorpusDeal

    XBox Clean Up

    Wow, inspiring work, it looks amazing! And I can't believe you did it so quickly . Did I understand correctly that you painted the metal shielding black? I'm really curious what the reason behind that was.
  10. The Noctua NF-A6x25 FLX actually has an airflow of 29.2 m³/h, which is about 17.2 CFM (29.2 * 0.589). I don't think it's a deal-breaker in any way, but something to keep in mind when evaluating the fans performance. I'm planning on making a 3D mount for the Noctua 60mm in hopes that the airflow can be improved, even if ever so slightly. It should improve the air-seal around the fan and allow for slightly better air flow.
  11. Oh, and I have never experienced the Xbox through anything other than Composite. I'm so damn ecstatic about my RertroGamingCables SCART (Component) cable arriving any day now! Can't wait to see how this thing looks through Component -> OSSC.
  12. Hey everyone, I recently rediscovered my old Xbox(es) and seem to have ended up here, somehow. My Xboxes consist of a working v1.4 and a broken v1.2. I've been restoring the v1.4 to it's former glory (and beyond). What amazes me is that so much has happened since I archived these boxes, it's amazing seeing the community still alive and kickin'! And who knew the clock capacitor would turn out to have leaky gut? Wish I had known it sooner. It's a shame I didn't keep a journal on my Xbox work in the past, would be interesting to reflect what I did to them. But the traces on the motherboards and cases at least tell a story. A bit of backstory. My first Xbox was the v1.2 and after probably screwing up some softmods and the like, got an Aladdin modchip for it. Not long after I was primarily running Linux on it and even did a RAM upgrade. This is also how I got into Gentoo (thanks ShALLaX!). I don't remember why but I ended up removing the extra RAM. Didn't have a hot air station back then so I did it one leg at a time. I also recall trying to put the Xbox in a computer case and shocking myself on the exposed, powered on, PSU . At some point the v1.2, probably due to some stoopid, broke down (powers on by itself and gives no image). As a result I got myself a v1.4 and a SmartXX LT OPX modchip with the solder-less adapter. In the case modding department I seem to have been quite the vandal... young me equipped with an 'el cheapo dremel. What could go wrong? From the looks of big hole on the back of the v1.2 case, I had probably planned or tried to do some AV mod or some such, top part looks like I had tried to fit a side-fan, etc. My other case is pretty neat though, I've made a hole in the top, under the logo with proper machinery (hooray for school) and sanded the green to create a transparent jewel. The only slightly annoying part is that I seem to have done some dremel damage on the back (outside), behind the fan . Probably trying to fit some sort of switch. Anyway, fast-forward to today, and here's what I've done so far: De-dusted everything with compressed air Remove clock capacitor and clean up properly Replace thermal paste with Arctic MX 4 for both CPU and GPU Replaced hacky 80mm fan mod (with LEDs) and cannibalized HDD tray with stock fan (temporary) and a pristine tray Replaced old Maxtor 120GB with a random 2TB Seagate SATA drive from my shelve of stuffs (went with Startech adapter) Replaced stock IDE cable with 80-wire IDE cable (detached and moved the DVD connector) Opened up and cleaned the Samsung DVD drive, applied some lubricant (it still occasionally "sticks" when trying to close and needs a nudge) Upgraded the SmartXX firmware from 3406 to 3408 (the last one they released, albeit a "beta") Switched to iND-BiOS 5003.67 (no clue what I used before, probably a modified EvoX, the boot sequence was just pure black ) Tried out XBMC4Gamers (pretty cool) What I'm still looking to do: Create and 3D print a fan mount for a 60mm fan (more readily available than 70mm) SSD disk (eventually, mainly for durability and noise reduction) Controller port LEDs Wireless controller, either home made wireless mod for original Xbox controller (S) or use og360 Remote power on / off (preferably via wireless controller) Find a pristine bottom case for the Xbox Salvage RAM from v1.2 board and upgrade to 128MB (again, hello 15 years ago) Illuminate my transparent Xbox jewel with LEDs (maybe) Dare I say, OGXboxHDMI!! My Xbox is alive and kickin', happy to be here and let's keep the Xbox awesome!

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